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A last is a mechanical form shaped like a human foot. It is used by Shoemaking, shoemakers and cordwainers in the manufacture and repair of shoes. Lasts typically come in pairs and have been made from various materials, including hardwoods, cast iron, and high-density plastics.
The term is derived from the Proto-Germanic *''laistaz'' ("track, trace, footprint"); cognates include Swedish ''läst'', Danish ''læste'', German ''Leisten''.
Lasts come in many styles and sizes, depending on the exact job they are designed for. Common variations include simple one-size lasts used for repairing soles and heel (shoe), heels, durable lasts used in modern mass production, and custom-made lasts used in the making of bespoke shoes, bespoke footwear. Though a last is made approximately in the shape of a human foot, the precise shape is tailored to the kind of footwear being made. For example, a boot last would be designed to hug the instep for a close fit. Modern last shapes are typically designed using dedicated computer-aided design software.
Historically, lasts were typically made from and cast iron because these materials retain their shape, even when in contact with wet materials (like leather) and subjected to the mechanical stresses of stretching and shaping shoes on them. Today, wooden lasts are generally used only for bespoke shoemaking, particularly in Europe and North America.
The materials used in modern lasts must be strong enough to withstand the forces of mass production machinery, such as that applied by pullover machines when bottoming the shoe, and must also be able to hold nail (fastener), tacks (known as "lasting tacks"), which are used to hold shoe parts together temporarily before the sole (shoe), sole is added. Although hardwoods satisfy these criteria, modern lasts, especially those used by mass production factories in places such as China, are often made from high-density polyethylene plastic (HMW-HDPE), which allows for many tack holes before needing repair. Such plastics also have the benefit that they can be recycled when the last wears out.
History of lastmaking
(lastmakingschool.com)
What is a shoe last?
(shoemakingcoursesonline.com) {{Authority control Shoemaking
A last is a mechanical form shaped like a human foot. It is used by Shoemaking, shoemakers and cordwainers in the manufacture and repair of shoes. Lasts typically come in pairs and have been made from various materials, including hardwoods, cast iron, and high-density plastics.
The term is derived from the Proto-Germanic *''laistaz'' ("track, trace, footprint"); cognates include Swedish ''läst'', Danish ''læste'', German ''Leisten''.
Production
Lasts come in many styles and sizes, depending on the exact job they are designed for. Common variations include simple one-size lasts used for repairing soles and heel (shoe), heels, durable lasts used in modern mass production, and custom-made lasts used in the making of bespoke shoes, bespoke footwear. Though a last is made approximately in the shape of a human foot, the precise shape is tailored to the kind of footwear being made. For example, a boot last would be designed to hug the instep for a close fit. Modern last shapes are typically designed using dedicated computer-aided design software.
Historically, lasts were typically made from and cast iron because these materials retain their shape, even when in contact with wet materials (like leather) and subjected to the mechanical stresses of stretching and shaping shoes on them. Today, wooden lasts are generally used only for bespoke shoemaking, particularly in Europe and North America.
The materials used in modern lasts must be strong enough to withstand the forces of mass production machinery, such as that applied by pullover machines when bottoming the shoe, and must also be able to hold nail (fastener), tacks (known as "lasting tacks"), which are used to hold shoe parts together temporarily before the sole (shoe), sole is added. Although hardwoods satisfy these criteria, modern lasts, especially those used by mass production factories in places such as China, are often made from high-density polyethylene plastic (HMW-HDPE), which allows for many tack holes before needing repair. Such plastics also have the benefit that they can be recycled when the last wears out.
Custom lasts
Cordwainers, or bespoke shoemakers, often use lasts that are specifically designed to the proportions of individual customers' feet. Made from various modern materials, they don't need to withstand the pressures of mass production machinery, but they must be able to handle constant tacking and pinning, and the wet environment associated with stretching and shaping materials such as leather.See also
*Shoe size *Jan Ernst Matzeliger (Lasting machine inventor)References
External links
History of lastmaking
(lastmakingschool.com)
What is a shoe last?
(shoemakingcoursesonline.com) {{Authority control Shoemaking