Durumagi

(), also (), (), (), is a variety of , or overcoat, in , the Korean traditional garment. It is a form of outwear which is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing; that is it worn over (jacket) and (pants).

History

The origin of traces back to at least the Three Kingdoms of Korea, where it originated from a long coat worn by the northern nomadic clothing to fend off cold weather in ancient times.

Tomb murals from Goguryeo were primarily painted in two regions, Ji'an () and Pyeongyang, which are the second and third capitals of the Goguryeo from the middle of the 4th to the middle of the 7th centuries respectively. The paintings datings from this period in the region of Jian typically shows the characteristics of the people of Goguryeo in terms of morals and customs while those in the regions of Pyeongyang would typically show Korean dress, including figures dressed in nomadic style had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years.

According Samuel Lee, the origins of the durumagi can be traced back to the Goguryeo period:

However, what is now known as the durumagi is part of the indigenous attire of the Korean people:Based on the Goguryeo mural paintings found near Pyeongyang, such as the early 5th century murals from (), the ancient worn by the owner of tomb was red (or purple) in colour:

The murals show a mixture of elements from before and after the fifth century; the wide-sleeves attire also reflect the characteristics of tomb murals which are found near the Pyeongyang area. The ancient was also worn with a waist belt and had wide sleeves.Durumagi
at Nate Encyclopedia

Goryeo

During the Goryeo period, Mongolian influences caused the ' to change in appearance. Not only was the waist belt changed into a , the traditional ''s short length and wide sleeves were lengthened and narrowed to the style of the Mongolian coat, , of which the name ' is said to be derived.Lee Yi Hwa (이이화), ''Korean History 7 – the Mongolian Invasion and the 30 Years War (한국사 이야기 7 – 몽골의 침략과 30년 항쟁)'', 1999, p.5
Hangilsa
Paju.

Joseon period

During the Joseon dynasty, the ' was less worn as an overcoat but more of a housecoat for the noble class, whereas it was worn outdoors by the commoners. In 1884, King Gojong promulgated the unification of clothing for all social classes through reform laws.Gapsin Clothing Reform
at Doosan Encyclopedia However, this law was met with much resistance and it was only until ten years later, after the Gabo Reform of 1894, that the ' became common as formal attire.

Construction and design

The is an overcoat, which is closed all around, lacking side and back vents. It has a straight collar with front overlapping front panels closing to the right, side gores, chest ties, neckband and narrow sleeves; its length is about under the calves and above the ankles.

Different fabrics and materials are used in making ': calico, wool, cotton, and various silks for winter; ramie, fine ramie and silk gauze for summer; various silks and calico for spring and autumn. White, grey and navy blue are commonly used.New ''hanbok''
Herald Biz 2010-03-30. Retrieved 14 June 2010

Types of

There are various types of which include: (); (); (); () or () for children.''Obangjang durumagi''
from Daum Communications and Korea Culture & Content Agency

During the Goryeo-era, a unique type of armor, called Durumagi (, ) emerged as the main armor for the Korean armies up until the early Joseon period in the 15th century. The opponents of Goryeo weren't heavily armored soldiers of other Koreanic states anymore. The trend shifted towards armor that made units mobile and responsive to a conflict with nomadic Mongolic or semi-nomadic and sedentary Tungusic tribes to the North. The Durumagi is a simple overcoat or robe with scale armor inside forming dots on the outside. Commonly these scales are made from leather, or iron, but some of them are shaped like leaves or coated with mercury or black lacquer to make them shine. They're also complete with a (winged) helmet with or without a ''hohaeg'' (()()) of lamellar inside to protect their heads and necks.

Modern use

The is still considered an important part of traditional attire for formal occasions, but a variety of colours and designs are being used. Colourful ' were given as gifts to the world leaders of the 2005 APEC Summit in Busan.Leaders in ''durumagi''
Nocut News 25 November 2005

See also

* Dopo
* Gonryongpo
*Hanbok
*Jeonbok
*Kkachi durumagi
* Po
*Sagyusam

References

*

External links

Owner of tomb wearing a purple (or red)
from the National Museum of Korea

Korea National Heritage online
from the Cultural Heritage Administration
*


{{Commons

Korean clothing
Jackets