Dolores Gonzales
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Dolores Consuelo Barcelo Gonzales (June 6, 1907– 1994) was a Mexican–American fashion designer based in
Tucson, Arizona , "(at the) base of the black ill , nicknames = "The Old Pueblo", "Optics Valley", "America's biggest small town" , image_map = , mapsize = 260px , map_caption = Interactive map ...
. She is best known for blending Native American and Mexican clothing traditions to create distinctive southwest
resort wear A resort (North American English) is a self-contained commercial establishment that tries to provide most of a vacationer's wants, such as food, drink, swimming, lodging, sports, entertainment, and shopping, on the premises. The term ''resort ...
dresses known as patio dresses, the fiesta dresses, (also known as the pejorative
squaw The English word ''squaw'' is an ethnic and sexual slur, historically used for Indigenous North American women. Contemporary use of the term, especially by non-Natives, is considered derogatory, misogynist, and racist.King, C. Richard,De/Sc ...
dress). She founded the company Dolores Resort Wear that manufactured dresses for the American market, selling in upscale department stores across the country. The iconic design was appropriated and copied by other designers throughout the southwest becoming synonymous with mid-twentieth century regionalist fashion of the
American Southwest The Southwestern United States, also known as the American Southwest or simply the Southwest, is a geographic and cultural region of the United States that generally includes Arizona, New Mexico, and adjacent portions of California, Colorado ...
. The dress design became the official dress of the American Square-dancing movement.


Life

Born Dolores Consuelo Barcelo in the northern Mexican state of Sonora on June 6, 1907 to Father Helberto Barcelo and Mother Beatrice Barcelo. She immigrated to
Douglas, Arizona Douglas is a city in Cochise County, Arizona, United States that lies in the north-west to south-east running Sulpher Springs Valley. Douglas has a border crossing with Mexico at Agua Prieta and a history of mining. The population was 16,531 i ...
with her family in 1911 fleeing the civil unrest created by the Mexican Revolution. She moved to
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in 1920 and began working at Phiffer's, where she assisted the designers in selecting colors, trimmings and fabrics. She worked there for 17 years,. In 1929, she married Leo Gonzales. The Gonzales family moved to
Tucson , "(at the) base of the black ill , nicknames = "The Old Pueblo", "Optics Valley", "America's biggest small town" , image_map = , mapsize = 260px , map_caption = Interactive map ...
in 1938. Gonzales' sister, Maria, opened her own dress shop, called Irene Page. Although Irene Page made ladies' ready-to-wear at first, Maria Gonzales began to experiment with the style of broomstick skirts. Gonzales and her brother Richard Barcelo brought Irene Page after
World War II World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposing ...
when Maria married and moved out of state. In 1941, the store began to make their own dresses and it was also renamed the Dolores Shop. All of Gonzales's dresses were made in a converted house – factory on West Council Street. In 1954, the '' Arizona Daily Star'' reported that Gonzales' factory created 60 dresses a day. In 1962, Barcelo convinced Gonzales to close her shop, seeing an end to the trend in fiesta dresses. According to Dolores's Son Lee Gondolas, the store, called the Dolores Shop received orders from all over the world. Dolores also had market outlets in Los Angeles,
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,
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and New York. In 1956, a ''
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'' Reporter dubbed her "The Dior of the Desert." Major department stores sent buyers to the Dolores Shop to purchase dresses that sold for $100 to $300 ($ to $ in dollars). J.C. Penney wanted to sell her dressing in their stores, but Gonzales refused. Famous individuals, such as
Mamie Eisenhower Mary Geneva "Mamie" Eisenhower (; November 14, 1896 – November 1, 1979) was the first lady of the United States from 1953 to 1961 as the wife of President Dwight D. Eisenhower. Born in Boone, Iowa, she was raised in a wealthy household i ...
,
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and
Cyd Charisse Cyd Charisse (born Tula Ellice Finklea; March 8, 1922 – June 17, 2008) was an American actress and dancer. After recovering from polio as a child and studying ballet, Charisse entered films in the 1940s. Her roles usually featured her abilit ...
were known to have bought Gonzales' dresses. Gonzales died in July 1994 in California.


See also

* Native American fashion * Squaw dress


References


Bibliography

* Bernice Cosulich, "American Indians Were First Designers and Tailors, Fashioning Fine Clothing." Arizona Daily Star (Tucson), March 14, 1948, p. D1 * Dolores Resort Wear, Dior of the Desert, Tucson Modernism Week, October 2015


Further reading

* Squaw Dress Industry, Vol. 51 No. 4 (winter 2010) pp 299–320. Arizona Historical Society. {{DEFAULTSORT:Gonzales, Dolores 1907 births 1994 deaths 20th-century Mexican artists Artists from New York (state) American fashion designers American women fashion designers Mexican fashion designers Mexican women fashion designers Artists from Tucson, Arizona 20th-century American women artists 20th-century American artists Mexican emigrants to the United States