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Fifty Classic Climbs Of North America
''Fifty Classic Climbs of North America'' is a climbing guidebook and history written by Steve Roper and Allen Steck. It is considered a classic piece of climbing literature, known to many climbers as simply "The Book", and has served as an inspiration for more recent climbing books, such as Mark Kroese's ''Fifty Favorite Climbs''. Though much of the book's contents are now out of date, it is still recognized as a definitive text which goes beyond the traditional guidebook. History The first edition was published in 1979, by Sierra Club Books in the United States and in Great Britain by the now-defunct Diadem Books. This was followed by a paperback printing by Random House in 1981. Two subsequent editions (with the same content) were published by Sierra Club Books in 1982 and 1996. Between 1979 and 1999 it sold nearly thirty thousand copies, a considerable achievement for a climbing guide book. Reviewing the book in ''American Alpine Journal'', Fred Beckey Friedrich Wolfg ...
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Dick Long
Richard John Long (4 May 1924 – 28 July 2021) was an Australian politician. Long was born in Leongatha, Victoria, to John Adrian Long and Doris May. He served in World War II as an RAAF pilot from 1943 to 1946, after which he received his Bachelor of Law from Melbourne University and became a solicitor. From 1950, he worked for the firm of Gray, Friend & Long in Warragul. A member of the Liberal Party, he was elected to the Victorian Legislative Council for Gippsland Gippsland is a rural region that makes up the southeastern part of Victoria, Australia, mostly comprising the coastal plains to the rainward (southern) side of the Victorian Alps (the southernmost section of the Great Dividing Range). It cove ... in 1973. He served until 1992, when he retired. He died on 28 July 2021 at the age of 97. References 1924 births 2021 deaths Liberal Party of Australia members of the Parliament of Victoria Members of the Victorian Legislative Council People from L ...
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Heinrich Harrer
Heinrich Harrer (; 6 July 1912 – 7 January 2006) was an Austrian mountaineer, sportsman, geographer, ''Oberscharführer'' in the ''Schutzstaffel'' (SS), and author. He was a member of the four-man climbing team that made the first ascent of the North Face of the Eiger, the "last problem" of the Alps. He wrote the books '' Seven Years in Tibet'' (1952) and ''The White Spider'' (1959). Early life Heinrich Harrer was born 6 July 1912 in Hüttenberg, Austria, in the district of Sankt Veit an der Glan in the state of Carinthia. His father, Josef Harrer, was a postal worker. From 1933 to 1938, Harrer studied geography and sports at the Karl-Franzens University in Graz. Harrer became a member of the traditional student corporation ATV Graz. In 1935, Harrer was designated to participate in the Alpine skiing competition at the 1936 Winter Olympics in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. The Austrian Alpine skiing team, however, boycotted the event due to a conflict regarding the skiing instructor ...
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Maki Yūkō
, also known as Maki Aritsune (using the native Japanese reading of the characters of his given name;Yūkō is the Sino-Japanese reading.), was a Japanese mountain climber. Early life and education Maki climbed Mount Fuji at the age of ten and made many climbs in his teens, including Mount Aso. He established a climbing club while studying law at Keio University in Tokyo, from which he graduated in 1919. He continued his studies in the United States and Great Britain. Climbing career During the period 1919 to 1921, he made numerous climbs in Switzerland, and on 10 September 1921, he made the first ascent of the Eiger by the Mittellegigrat (northeast ridge) with mountain guides Fritz Amatter, Samuel Brawand and Fritz Steuri. He made a donation of 10,000 Swiss francs toward the construction of the Mittellegi Hut. In 1922, he made the first winter ascent of Mount Yari () in Japan. In 1925, with five other Japanese mountaineers and three Swiss mountain guides, he m ...
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Mount Alberta
Mount Alberta is a mountain located in the upper Athabasca River Valley of Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada. J. Norman Collie named the mountain in 1898 after Princess Louise Caroline Alberta. It is the most difficult of the 11,000ers from a climbing point of view. Mount Alberta is the fifth-highest peak of the Canadian Rockies and the third highest in Alberta. It is situated southeast of the town of Jasper, just beyond the Northern extent of the Columbia Icefield. According to the Climber's Guide, Mount Alberta is "One of the finest peaks in the Rockies, a singular uplift that is difficult on all sides." __NOTOC__ Climbing ;History The first ascent was made in 1925 by members of the Japanese Alpine Club: S. Hashimoto, H. Hatano, T. Hayakawa, Y. Maki, Y.Mita, N. Okabe. The team was guided by Hans Fuhrer, H. Kohler and J. Weber, and the leader of the team was Maki. This team consisted of four Keio University alpine club members and two Gakushuin University alpine c ...
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Mount Edith Cavell
Mount Edith Cavell is a mountain located in the Athabasca River and Astoria River valleys of Jasper National Park, and the most prominent peak entirely within Alberta. The mountain was named in 1916 for Edith Cavell, a British nurse executed by the Germans during World War I for having helped Allied soldiers escape from occupied Belgium to the Netherlands, in violation of German military law. It was previously known as Mount Fitzhugh. A close-up view of the north face of Mount Edith Cavell is visible after a short hike to Cavell Meadows. The trailhead is by the parking lot at the end of Mount Edith Cavell Road. The trail to the meadows is one way, rising to . '' The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide'' describes the trail in detail. The hanging Angel Glacier is visible from Cavell Meadows, which spills over a cliff on the north face. Access to the Tonquin Valley trails can be found about one kilometre before the end of the Mount Edith Cavell Road. There is a parking area acr ...
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Mount Robson
Mount Robson is the most prominent mountain in North America's Rocky Mountain range; it is also the highest point in the Canadian Rockies. The mountain is located entirely within Mount Robson Provincial Park of British Columbia, and is part of the Rainbow Range. Mount Robson is the second highest peak entirely in British Columbia, behind Mount Waddington in the Coast Range. The south face of Mount Robson is clearly visible from the Yellowhead Highway (Highway 16), and is commonly photographed along this route. Mount Robson was likely named after Colin Robertson, who worked for both the North West Company and the Hudson's Bay Company at various times in the early 19th century, though there was confusion over the name as many assumed it to have been named for John Robson, an early premier of British Columbia. The Texqakallt, a Secwepemc people and the earliest known inhabitants of the area, call it (striped rock), spelled in Dawson 1891 as , ''The Mountain of the ...
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Yvon Chouinard
Yvon Chouinard (born November 9, 1938) is an American rock climber, environmentalist, philanthropist and outdoor industry businessman. His company, Patagonia, is known for its commitment to protecting the environment. Chouinard is also a surfer, kayaker, and falconer and is particularly fond of '' tenkara'' fly-fishing.''Fly Rod and Reel'' magazine, "Simple Gifts", by Yvon Chouinard, Oct/Nov '09 He has written about climbing issues and ethics and on mixing environmentalism and business. Early life Chouinard's father was a French-Canadian handyman, mechanic, and plumber. In 1947, Yvon and his family moved from Lewiston, Maine to Southern California. They were Catholic. His early climbing partners included Royal Robbins and Tom Frost.Yvon Chouinard, , Outside Online
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Howser Spire
Howser Spire, or Howser Spire Massif, is a group of three distinct granite peaks, and the highest mountain of the Canadian Bugaboo Spires. The mountain is located at the southwest corner of the Vowell Glacier, within the Bugaboo mountain range in the Purcell Mountains, a subrange of British Columbia's Columbia Mountains, The highest of the three spires is the North Tower at , the Central Tower the lowest, and the South Tower is slightly lower than the North at . Howser Spire is named after the town of Howser on Duncan Lake and Howser Creek. The first ascent of the North Tower was made in August 1916 by Conrad Kain Conrad Kain (10 August 1883, Nasswald – 2 February 1934, Cranbrook, British Columbia) was an Austrian mountain guide who guided extensively in Europe, Canada, and New Zealand, and was responsible for the first ascents of more than 60 routes in B ..., Albert MacCarthy, E. MacCarthy, J. Vincent and Henry . The Beckey-Chouinard/West Buttress route is recognized ...
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Bugaboo Spire
Bugaboo Spire is a peak in Bugaboo mountain range in Canada, located between the Vowell and Crescent glaciers, just under 2 km West of the ACC's Conrad Kain hut. It is known for its alpine climbing. The Spire was first climbed by Conrad Kain Conrad Kain (10 August 1883, Nasswald – 2 February 1934, Cranbrook, British Columbia) was an Austrian mountain guide who guided extensively in Europe, Canada, and New Zealand, and was responsible for the first ascents of more than 60 routes in B ... in 1916. Routes * Northeast Ridge ( D-, 5.8) :This route tackles the right-hand skyline in the east face photo. Gain the Bugaboo/Crescent col by making your way up the Crescent Glacier to its highest point and scrambling (4th class) up the extreme left side of a slabby grey-green area for about 180m. You are then on the ridge joining Crescent and Bugaboo; follow blocks and a large crack up this to the "rope-up terrace", a white area where dykes on the east face join the ridge. From her ...
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Mount Sir Donald
Mount Sir Donald is a mountain summit located in the Rogers Pass area of Glacier National Park in the Selkirk Mountains of British Columbia, Canada. Its good rock quality and classic Matterhorn shape make it popular for alpine rock climbers, and the Northwest Arete route is included in the popular book ''Fifty Classic Climbs of North America''. It was originally named Syndicate Peak in honor of the group who arranged the finances for the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway, but was later renamed after Donald Smith, 1st Baron Strathcona and Mount Royal, head of the syndicate. The first ascent was made in 1890 by Emil Huber and Carl Sulzer of Switzerland and porter Harry Cooper. As of the 1910s, an average of three or four ascents per year were being made. Climate Based on the Köppen climate classification, the mountain has a subarctic climate with cold, snowy winters, and mild summers. Temperatures can drop below −20 °C with wind chill factors below −30 °C. ...
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Middle Triple Peak
Middle Triple Peak is the second highest peak in the Kichatna Mountains, a subrange of the Alaska Range in Alaska, United States. It is a striking rock tower, with immense, sheer walls on the east and west sides. Its ''East Buttress'' route (roughly 3,600 feet/1,100 m high) is a classic hard rock climbing route, although the first pitch was destroyed by rockfall (discovered by Nancy Hansen in 2012) and the route has not been climbed since. Due to the remoteness of the range and the usually terrible weather, this peak has seen only a few ascents. The first ascent of the peak was in 1976 by Russell McLean and Charlie Porter (fresh from the first solo of the ''Cassin Ridge'' on Denali Denali (; also known as Mount McKinley, its former official name) is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of above sea level. With a topographic prominence of and a topographic isolation of , Denali is the th ...). Notable ascents and routes * 1976 ''West Fac ...
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Mount Huntington (Alaska)
Mount Huntington is a striking rock and ice pyramid in the central Alaska Range, about 8 miles (13 km) south-southeast of Denali. It is also about 6 miles (10 km) east of Mount Hunter, and two miles west of The Rooster Comb. While overshadowed in absolute elevation by Denali, Huntington is a steeper peak: in almost every direction, faces drop over in about a mile (1.6 km). Even its easiest route presents significantly more technical challenge than the standard route on Denali, and it is a favorite peak for high-standard technical climbers. Mount Huntington was first climbed in 1964 by a French expedition led by famed alpinist Lionel Terray, via the Northwest Ridge, from then on also called the French Ridge. The second ascent the following year, via the West Face/West Rib, is reported by David Roberts in ''The Mountain of My Fear''. The mountain can be accessed either from the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier, on the north side of the mountain, or the Tokositna Gla ...
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