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''i-D'' is a British bimonthly magazine published by
Vice Media Vice Media Group LLC is an American-Canadian digital media and broadcasting company. , the Vice Media Group included five main business areas: VICE.com (digital content); VICE STUDIOS (film and TV production) VICE TV (also known as VICELAND); V ...
, dedicated to
fashion Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture. The term implies a look defined by the fashion in ...
,
music Music is generally defined as the art of arranging sound to create some combination of form, harmony, melody, rhythm or otherwise expressive content. Exact definitions of music vary considerably around the world, though it is an aspect ...
,
art Art is a diverse range of human activity, and resulting product, that involves creative or imaginative talent expressive of technical proficiency, beauty, emotional power, or conceptual ideas. There is no generally agreed definition of wha ...
and
youth culture Youth culture refers to the societal norms of children, adolescents, and young adults. Specifically, it comprises the processes and symbolic systems that are shared by the youth and are distinct from those of adults in the community. An emphasis ...
. ''i-D'' was founded by designer and former '' Vogue'' art director
Terry Jones Terence Graham Parry Jones (1 February 1942 – 21 January 2020) was a Welsh comedian, director, historian, actor, writer and member of the Monty Python comedy team. After graduating from Oxford University with a degree in English, Jones and ...
in 1980. The first issue was published in the form of a hand-stapled
fanzine A fanzine ( blend of '' fan'' and ''magazine'' or ''-zine'') is a non-professional and non-official publication produced by enthusiasts of a particular cultural phenomenon (such as a literary or musical genre) for the pleasure of others who share ...
with text produced on a typewriter. Over the years the magazine evolved into a mature glossy but it has kept street style and youth culture central. ''i-D'' has also held exhibitions worldwide and published several books.


Details

The magazine is known for its innovative
photography Photography is the art, application, and practice of creating durable images by recording light, either electronically by means of an image sensor, or chemically by means of a light-sensitive material such as photographic film. It is employed i ...
and
typography Typography is the art and technique of arranging type to make written language legible, readable and appealing when displayed. The arrangement of type involves selecting typefaces, point sizes, line lengths, line-spacing (leading), and ...
and as a training ground for fresh talent. Photographers
Wolfgang Tillmans Wolfgang Tillmans (born 16 August 1968) is a German photographer. His diverse body of work is distinguished by observation of his surroundings and an ongoing investigation of the photographic medium’s foundations. Tillmans was the first photog ...
,
Mario Testino Mario Eduardo Testino Silva OBE HonFRPS (born 30 October 1954) is a Peruvian fashion and portrait photographer. His work has featured internationally in magazines such as '' Vogue, V Magazine,'' '' Vanity Fair'' and '' GQ.'' He has also cre ...
,
Terry Richardson Terrence Richardson (born August 14, 1965) is an American fashion and portrait photographer. He has shot advertising campaigns for Marc Jacobs, Aldo, Supreme, Sisley, Tom Ford, and Yves Saint Laurent among others, and also done work for ma ...
, Craig McDean, Nick Knight and
Juergen Teller Juergen Teller (born 28 January 1964) is a German fine-art and fashion photographer. He was awarded the Citibank Prize for Photography in 2003 and received the Special Presentation International Center of Photography Infinity Award in 2018. Maj ...
started their careers at ''i-D'', as did Dylan Jones and
Caryn Franklin Caryn Franklin MBE (born 11 January 1959) is a British fashion and identity commentator and visiting professor of diverse selfhood. She was former fashion editor and co-editor of ''i-D'' magazine in the 1980s and long-time presenter of BBC tel ...
. Other photographers that have contributed to ''i-D'' include Ellen von Unwerth,
Robert Fairer Robert Fairer (born 1966) is a British fashion photographer who is known for his backstage photography in the 1990s until the 2010s. Working for American ''Vogue'', ''Elle'' and ''Harper's Bazaar'', his behind-the-scenes shots of supermodels, f ...
and Kayt Jones. People who have appeared in ''i-D'' include
Madonna Madonna Louise Ciccone (; ; born August 16, 1958) is an American singer-songwriter and actress. Widely dubbed the " Queen of Pop", Madonna has been noted for her continual reinvention and versatility in music production, songwriting, a ...
,
Grace Jones Grace Beverly Jones (born 19 May 1948) is a model, singer and actress. Born in Jamaica, she and her family moved to Syracuse, New York, when she was a teenager. Jones began her modelling career in New York state, then in Paris, working for f ...
,
Naomi Campbell Naomi Elaine Campbell (born 22 May 1970) is an English model, actress, singer, and businesswoman. She began her career at the age of 15, and established herself amongst the most recognisable and in-demand models of the past four decades. Cam ...
,
Sade Sade may refer to: People * Marquis de Sade (1740–1814), French aristocrat, writer, and libertine * Sade (singer) (born 1959, Helen Folasade Adu), British Nigerian musician and lead singer of the eponymous band * Sade Baderinwa (born 1969), WAB ...
,
John Galliano John Charles Galliano (born 28 November 1960) is a British fashion designer from Gibraltar. He was the creative director of his eponymous label John Galliano and French fashion houses Givenchy and Dior. Since 2014, Galliano has been the creati ...
,
Alexander McQueen Lee Alexander McQueen CBE (17 March 1969 – 11 February 2010) was a British fashion designer and couturier. He founded his own Alexander McQueen label in 1992, and was chief designer at Givenchy from 1996 to 2001. His achievements in fashion ...
,
Kanye West Ye ( ; born Kanye Omari West ; June 8, 1977) is an American rapper, singer, songwriter, record producer, and fashion designer. Born in Atlanta and raised in Chicago, West gained recognition as a producer for Roc-A-Fella Records in the ear ...
,
Helmut Lang Helmut Lang may refer to: * Helmut Lang (artist) (born 1956), Austrian-born fashion designer and artist * Helmut Lang (athlete) (born 1940), Austrian Olympic sprinter * Helmut Lang (fashion brand) The Helmut Lang fashion brand was created by ...
,
Franz Ferdinand Archduke Franz Ferdinand Carl Ludwig Joseph Maria of Austria, (18 December 1863 – 28 June 1914) was the heir presumptive to the throne of Austria-Hungary. His assassination in Sarajevo was the most immediate cause of World War I. F ...
,
Chloë Sevigny Chloë Stevens Sevigny (, born November 18, 1974) is an American actress, model, filmmaker and fashion designer. Known for her work in independent films, often appearing in controversial or experimental features, Sevigny is the recipient of se ...
,
Raf Simons Raf Jan Simons (; born 12 January 1968) is a Belgian fashion designer. Beginning in furniture design, Simons launched his own menswear label in 1995. He was creative director at Jil Sander (2005–2012), Christian Dior (2012–2015), and Calvin ...
, Jun Takahashi, Veronique Branquinho,
Lily Cole Lily Luahana Cole (born 27 December 1987)"Autobiography"
, lilycole.com.
is a B ...
,
Giles Deacon Giles Deacon (born 1969) is a British fashion designer, Creative Director and Founder of Giles Deacon group, a fashion enterprise. Deacon joined the Paris Fashion Week in 2016. Deacon has been known to challenge the traditional ideas of womenswea ...
,
Dizzee Rascal Dylan Kwabena Mills (born 18 September 1984), better known by his stage name Dizzee Rascal, is a British MC and rapper. A pioneer of grime music, his work has also incorporated elements of UK garage, bassline, British hip hop, and R&B. Dizze ...
,
Scarlett Johansson Scarlett Ingrid Johansson (; born November 22, 1984) is an American actress. The world's highest-paid actress in 2018 and 2019, she has featured multiple times on the ''Forbes'' Celebrity 100 list. ''Time'' magazine named her one of the 100 ...
,
Rick Owens Richard Saturnino Owens (born November 18, 1962) is an American fashion designer from Porterville, California. In addition to his main line, Owens has a furniture line and a number of diffusion lines. Early life and education Richard Saturnino ...
,
Selena Gomez Selena Marie Gomez ( ; born July 22, 1992) is an American singer, actress and producer. Gomez began her acting career on the children's television series ''Barney & Friends'' (2002–2004). As a teenager, she rose to prominence for starring a ...
, and Rihanna. The wink and smile on each front cover—a graphic representation of the magazine's logo—are integral to the i-D identity. In November 2021, Max Clark, the magazine's fashion editor, was suspended after more than a dozen women accused him of sending sexually inappropriate messages. Clark denies the allegations.


The Straight Up

The Straight-Up is a documentary style of
photography Photography is the art, application, and practice of creating durable images by recording light, either electronically by means of an image sensor, or chemically by means of a light-sensitive material such as photographic film. It is employed i ...
pioneered by
Terry Jones Terence Graham Parry Jones (1 February 1942 – 21 January 2020) was a Welsh comedian, director, historian, actor, writer and member of the Monty Python comedy team. After graduating from Oxford University with a degree in English, Jones and ...
, founder and editor-in-chief of ''i-D'' magazine, in 1977. Taking its name from a
West Country The West Country (occasionally Westcountry) is a loosely defined area of South West England, usually taken to include all, some, or parts of the counties of Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, Somerset, Bristol, and, less commonly, Wiltshire, Gloucesters ...
expression meaning 'tell it like it is', a ''Straight-Up'' typically captures a head-to-toe portrait of someone street cast with great personal style, often accompanied by a short question-and-answer defining their life, likes and dislikes. In 1977, inspired by
August Sander August Sander (17 November 1876 – 20 April 1964) was a German portrait and documentary photographer. His first book ''Face of our Time'' (German: ''Antlitz der Zeit'') was published in 1929. Sander has been described as "the most important Ger ...
's social documentary portraits and
Irving Penn Irving Penn (June 16, 1917October 7, 2009) was an American photographer known for his fashion photography, portraits, and still lifes. Penn's career included work at '' Vogue'' magazine, and independent advertising work for clients including Is ...
's ''Small Trade'' series, Jones commissioned British photographer Steve Johnston to photograph London punks head-to-toe against a plain white wall on the
Kings Road King's Road or Kings Road (or sometimes the King's Road, especially when it was the king's private road until 1830, or as a colloquialism by middle/upper class London residents), is a major street stretching through Chelsea and Fulham, both ...
. Jones intended the pictures to run as a cultural piece in
British Vogue British ''Vogue'' is a British fashion magazine published based in London since autumn 1916. It is the British edition of the American magazine '' Vogue'' and is owned and distributed by Condé Montrose Nast. British ''Vogue'' editor in 2012 ...
, where he then worked as art director. The photographs however were considered too revolutionary, so Jones ran the images in a book he was art directing called ''Not Another Punk Book'', published by
Aurum Press The Quarto Group is a global illustrated book publishing group founded in 1976. It is domiciled in the United States and listed on the London Stock Exchange. Quarto creates and sells illustrated books for adults and children, across 50 countri ...
. These Straight-Ups went on to form the basis of i-D, a hand-stapled
fanzine A fanzine ( blend of '' fan'' and ''magazine'' or ''-zine'') is a non-professional and non-official publication produced by enthusiasts of a particular cultural phenomenon (such as a literary or musical genre) for the pleasure of others who share ...
founded by Jones in 1980. As i-D grew from a fanzine into a fashion magazine, the Straight-Up style of photography continued, culminating in an entire issue of the magazine dedicated to the photographic style in August 2003 (''The Straight-Up Issue'', No. 234). Today ''Straight-Ups'' continue to be featured in ''i-D''.


Editors

The editors of ''i-D'' have been: * Terry Jones (1980–Present) * Dylan Jones (1986–1988) *
Caryn Franklin Caryn Franklin MBE (born 11 January 1959) is a British fashion and identity commentator and visiting professor of diverse selfhood. She was former fashion editor and co-editor of ''i-D'' magazine in the 1980s and long-time presenter of BBC tel ...
(1986–1988) * Alix Sharkey (1988–1989) * John Godfrey (1988–1990) * Matthew Collin (1991–1994) * Avril Mair (1994–2005) * Glenn Waldron (2005–2006) * Ben Reardon (2006–2010) * Holly Shackleton (2010–2019) * Alastair McKimm (2019–present)


Publications

*''A Decade of i-Deas, the Encyclopaedia of the '80s. Compiled and Produced by i-D Magazine''. Edited by John Godfrey. London:
Penguin Penguins ( order Sphenisciformes , family Family (from la, familia) is a group of people related either by consanguinity (by recognized birth) or affinity (by marriage or other relationship). The purpose of the family is to maintain t ...
, 1990. . *''Family Future Positive''. Terry and Tricia Jones, and Avril Mair. London: i-D, 1998. . *''SMILE i-D. Fashion and Style. 20 years of i-D magazine''. Terry Jones. London: i-D / Cologne:
Taschen Taschen is a luxury art book publisher founded in 1980 by Benedikt Taschen in Cologne, Germany. As of January 2017, Taschen is co-managed by Benedikt and his eldest daughter, Marlene Taschen. History The company began as Taschen Comics, ...
, 2000. . *''Fashion Now. i-D selects the world's 150 most important designers''. Terry Jones and Avril Mair. Cologne: Taschen, 2003. . *''Fashion Now 2. i-D selects the world's 160 most important designers''. Terry Jones and Susie Rushton. Cologne: Taschen, 2005. . *''Safe+Sound''. Terry and Tricia Jones. London: i-D, 2007. .


Exhibitions

*''Smile i-D.'' Initially launched in 2001 for ''i-D''s 20th birthday, Smile i-D highlighted the spirit of the magazine. Since then, the show toured internationally, growing with each destination to include new material.
Wapping Hydraulic Power Station The Wapping Hydraulic Power Station (built 1890) was originally run by the London Hydraulic Power Company in Wapping, London, England. Originally, it operated using steam, and was later converted to use electricity. It was used to power machin ...
, London, April 2001;
Armani Giorgio Armani S.p.A. (), commonly known as Armani, is an Italian luxury fashion house founded in Milan by Giorgio Armani which designs, manufactures, distributes and retails haute couture, ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, accessories, and ...
flagship store, Milan, June 2001; Espace Cardin, Paris, October 2001; Art Directors Club, New York, November 2001; El Dorrego, Buenos Aires, October/November 2003; Laboratorio Arte Alameda, Mexico City, February 2004; Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, Santiago, Chile, April 2004; Corp Banca, Caracas, July 2004; "+7.095.Art" gallery, Moscow, April 2007. *''i-Dentity.'' The exhibition focused on identity, using still images, film, sound and smell.
Fashion and Textile Museum The Fashion and Textile Museum is the only museum in the UK dedicated to showcasing contemporary fashion and textile design. The museum is committed to presenting varied, creative and engaging exhibitions, alongside an exciting selection of educ ...
, London, October 2005 (For ''i-D's'' 25th anniversary) then toured to New York, February 2006; Hong Kong, April 2006; Tokyo, April 2006; Beijing, May 2006. *''Safe+Sound.''
London College of Fashion The London College of Fashion is a constituent college of the University of the Arts London, in London, England. It offers undergraduate, postgraduate, short courses, study abroad courses and business-training in fashion, make-up, beauty-therap ...
, London, February 2007; CP Company, Milan, April 2007.


See also

* List of people on the cover of ''i-D'' magazine


References


Further reading

* Taylor, Steve & Brody, Neville. ''100 Years of Magazine Covers''. London: Black Dog Publishing, 2006. .


External links

* * {{Authority control 1980 establishments in England Bi-monthly magazines published in the United Kingdom Fashion magazines published in the United Kingdom Independent magazines Lifestyle magazines published in the United Kingdom Magazines published in London Magazines established in 1980 Vice Media