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Zardozi or zar-douzi or zarduzi (from Classical Persian زَردوزی ''zardōzī'', literally "gold embroidery"; fa, label= Modern Persian, زَردوزی, translit=zarduzi; hi, ज़रदोज़ी, tg, зардӯзӣ, ur, زردوزی, uz, zardoʻzi), is an Iranian, Indian-subcontinent and Central Asian embroidery type. Zardozi comes from two Persian words: ''zar'' or ''zarin'' meaning 'gold', and ''dozi'' meaning 'sewing'. Zardozi is a type of heavy and elaborate metal embroidery on a silk, satin, or velvet fabric base. Designs are often created using gold and silver threads and can incorporate pearls, beads, and precious stones. It is used as decoration for a wide range of applications, including clothes, household textiles, and animal trappings. Historically, it was used to adorn the walls of royal tents, scabbards, wall hangings and the paraphernalia of regal elephants and horses.
Initially, the embroidery was done with pure silver wires and real gold leaves. However, today, craftsmen make use of a combination of copper wire, with a golden or silver polish, and silk thread.
Gold embroidery has existed in the subcontinent since the time of the Rigveda, between 1500 and 1200 BC. It prospered during the 17th century during the reign of the Mughal emperor
Zardozi or zar-douzi or zarduzi (from Classical Persian زَردوزی ''zardōzī'', literally "gold embroidery"; fa, label= Modern Persian, زَردوزی, translit=zarduzi; hi, ज़रदोज़ी, tg, зардӯзӣ, ur, زردوزی, uz, zardoʻzi), is an Iranian, Indian-subcontinent and Central Asian embroidery type. Zardozi comes from two Persian words: ''zar'' or ''zarin'' meaning 'gold', and ''dozi'' meaning 'sewing'. Zardozi is a type of heavy and elaborate metal embroidery on a silk, satin, or velvet fabric base. Designs are often created using gold and silver threads and can incorporate pearls, beads, and precious stones. It is used as decoration for a wide range of applications, including clothes, household textiles, and animal trappings. Historically, it was used to adorn the walls of royal tents, scabbards, wall hangings and the paraphernalia of regal elephants and horses.
Initially, the embroidery was done with pure silver wires and real gold leaves. However, today, craftsmen make use of a combination of copper wire, with a golden or silver polish, and silk thread.
Iran
Zardozi is an important handicraft in Persian culture. It is known around the country by names such as ''zar-douzi'' ( fa, زردوزی), ''kam-douzi'' ( fa, کمدوزی), ''gol-douzi'' ( fa, گلدوزی) and ''kaman-douzi'' ( fa, کماندوزی). Nowadays it is more popular in Hormozgan, especially inBandar-e Lenge
Bandar Lengeh ( fa, بندرلنگه, also Romanized as Bandar-e Lengeh, Bandar-e-Langeh and Bandar Langeh; also known simply as Lengeh, Linja, Linjah or Lingah) is a harbour city and capital of Bandar Lengeh County, in Hormozgan province of ...
, Bandar-e Abbas, and Minab.
Persian zardozi is of three kinds:
* Some people completely sew the basic fabric with Bakhie ( fa, بخیه) in order to produce novel patterns and colors, such as the Baloch
Baloch, also spelled Baloch, Beluch and in other ways, may refer to:
* Baloch people, an ethnic group of Pakistan, Iran and Afghanistan
* Baluch, a small itinerant community of Afghanistan
* Balouch, Azad Kashmir, a town in Pakistan
* Baloch (s ...
's Souzan-douzi ( fa, سوزندوزی), Rasht's Qollab-douzi ( fa, قلابدوزی) and Kerman
Kerman ( fa, كرمان, Kermân ; also romanization of Persian, romanized as Kermun and Karmana), known in ancient times as the satrapy of Carmania, is the capital city of Kerman Province, Iran. At the 2011 census, its population was 821,394, in ...
's Pate-douzi ( fa, پَتهدوزی).
* Some sew with less density of work on the original fabric. They cross the strings throughout the woof of the fabric and sew them to each other to form a colorfully patterned lattice, such as ''sekke-douzi'' ( fa, سکّهدوزی) or ''qollab-douzi'' ( fa, قلابدوزی) in Isfahan
Isfahan ( fa, اصفهان, Esfahân ), from its Achaemenid empire, ancient designation ''Aspadana'' and, later, ''Spahan'' in Sassanian Empire, middle Persian, rendered in English as ''Ispahan'', is a major city in the Greater Isfahan Regio ...
.
* A third way is to sew a variety of patterns on the original fabric with gold and silver strings, such as ''Dah-Yek-Douzi'' ( fa, دهيکدوزی), Naqade-douzi ( fa, نقدهدوزی), Tafte-douzi ( fa, تافتهدوزی), Kous-douzi ( fa, خوسدوزی) Zari-douzi ( fa, زردوزی) or Golabatoun-douzi ( fa, گلابتوندوزی).
Indian subcontinent
Gold embroidery has existed in the subcontinent since the time of the Rigveda, between 1500 and 1200 BC. It prospered during the 17th century during the reign of the Mughal emperor Akbar
Abu'l-Fath Jalal-ud-din Muhammad Akbar (25 October 1542 – 27 October 1605), popularly known as Akbar the Great ( fa, ), and also as Akbar I (), was the third Mughal emperor, who reigned from 1556 to 1605. Akbar succeeded his father, Hum ...
, but later a loss of royal patronage and industrialization
Industrialisation ( alternatively spelled industrialization) is the period of social and economic change that transforms a human group from an agrarian society into an industrial society. This involves an extensive re-organisation of an econo ...
led to its decline. The craft began to experience a resurgence in popularity following India's independence in 1947.
Today, zardozi is popular in the Indian cities of Lucknow, Hyderabad, Farrukhabad, Chennai and Bhopal. In 2013, the Geographical Indication Registry (GIR) accorded Geographical Indication (GI) registration to the Lucknow zardozi. With GI status, zardozi artisans, distributors, and retailers in Lucknow and the six surrounding districts of Barabanki, Unnao, Sitapur, Rae Bareli, Hardoi and Amethi can become authorized users of the "Lucknow Zardozi" brand and carry a unique mark of authenticity.
Zardozi is a popular embroidery choice across Pakistan especially for wedding or formal wear, with artisans and couture houses alike producing clothing with zardozi work
Central Asia
Zardozi has also been present in Tajikistan and Uzbekistan since ancient times.References
External links
* {{Clothing in South Asia Culture of Lucknow Embroidery in India Pakistani embroidery Turkish embroidery Azerbaijani embroidery Kuwaiti embroidery Iraqi embroidery Persian embroidery Persian handicrafts Iranian clothing Persian words and phrases Economy of Lucknow Tajikistani culture Uzbekistani culture