Iuliia Vladimirovna Kaplina (russian: Юлия Владимировна Каплина; born 11 May 1993) is a Russian

sport climber Sport climbing (or Bolted climbing) is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors (or bolts), permanently fixed into the rock for climber protection, in which a rope that is attached to the climber is clipped into the anchors to ...

who has won multiple

speed climbing Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers. Competition speed climbing, which takes place on a ...

events and set multiple

world records A world record is usually the best global and most important performance that is ever recorded and officially verified in a specific skill, sport, or other kind of activity. The book ''Guinness World Records'' and other world records organization ...

. She was the world record holder in women's speed climbing until 6 August 2021, setting the record at the 2020 European Championships in Moscow (6.964). Her first participation in

World Cup A world cup is a global sporting competition in which the participant entities – usually international teams or individuals representing their countries – compete for the title of world champion. The event most associated with the concept i ...

was in 2012 in

Chamonix Chamonix-Mont-Blanc ( frp, Chamôni), more commonly known as Chamonix, is a commune in the Haute-Savoie department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of southeastern France. It was the site of the first Winter Olympics in 1924. In 2019, it had ...

where she ranked 18th. Her performance at the IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 qualified her for a spot in the

2020 Summer Olympics The , officially the and also known as , was an international multi-sport event held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 in Tokyo, Japan, with some preliminary events that began on 21 July. Tokyo was selected as the host city during the ...

. There, she did not qualify for the final after failing to push the button at the top of the wall in her second try, leaving her with her initial time of 7.65 at the end, which was not enough to stay in the top 10 until the end of the qualification, as she did not show good enough results in the lead and bouldering events. In an interview with ''Sport-Express'' she stated that the Russians did not know about the opportunity to do test climbs before the actual qualification climbs; the organizers forbade test climbs for speed climbers during the qualification event. She explained that test climbs are important to understand the friction of the

holds A hold (abbreviated HLD, H or HD) is awarded to a relief pitcher who meets the following three conditions: :1. Enters the game in a save (baseball), save situation; that is, when all of the following three conditions apply: :: (a) He appears i ...

and the climate of the surroundings.«Мои слезы стали рекламой скалолазания». Скалолазка Каплина — о не нажатой в Токио кнопке
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Rankings

Climbing World Cup

Climbing World Championships

Youth Adult

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Speed

References

External links

* * * * {{DEFAULTSORT:Kaplina, Yulia Living people 1993 births Female climbers Russian rock climbers Competitors at the 2013 World Games Competitors at the 2017 World Games World Games gold medalists Sport climbers at the 2020 Summer Olympics 20th-century Russian women 21st-century Russian women IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists Speed climbers