Yamanba By Nagasawa Rosetsu (Itsukushima Jinja)

is a fashion trend among young Japanese women that started in the mid-1990s, distinguished by a dark tan and contrasting make-up liberally applied by fashionistas.

The Shibuya and Ikebukuro districts of Tokyo were the centres of ''ganguro'' fashion; it was started by rebellious youth who contradicted the traditional Japanese concept of beauty; pale skin, dark hair and neutral makeup tones. ''Ganguro'' instead tanned their skin, bleached their hair and used much colourful makeup in unusual ways.

''Ganguro'' has a connection to Japanese folklore of ghosts and demons who are depicted with a similar appearance such as those in kabuki and noh costumes. This connection is further underlined by the off-shoot style ''yamanba'', named after a mountain witch in Japanese folklore.

The ''ganguro'' trend started in the mid-1990s and reached its peak by the latter half of the decade; it purportedly became almost obsolete by 2000 when a bihaku (light skin) craze emerged among young women who wanted to imitate the look of their favourite popular singers, specifically Ayumi Hamasaki, who debuted at the time. The ''ganguro'' trend faded out afterwards, although its influence can be observed in ''yamanba'' and ''manba'' styles.

Characteristics

Ganguro appeared as a new fashion style in Japan in the mid-1990s and was prevalent mostly among young women. In ''ganguro'' fashion, a deep tan is combined with hair dyed in shades of red to blonde, or a silver grey known as "high bleached". Black ink is used as eyeliner and white concealer is used as lipstick and eyeshadow. False eyelashes, plastic facial gems, and pearl powder are often added to this. Platform shoes and brightly coloured outfits complete the ''ganguro'' look. Also typical of ''ganguro'' fashion are tie-dyed sarongs, miniskirts, stickers on the face, and many bracelets, rings, and necklaces.

Ganguro falls into the larger subculture of , a slang term used for various groups of young women, usually referring to overly childish women. Researchers in the field of Japanese studies believe that ''ganguro'' is a form of revenge against traditional Japanese society due to resentment of neglect, isolation, and constraint of Japanese society. This is their attempt at individuality, self-expression, and freedom, in open defiance of school standards and regulations.

''Ganguro'' can be used to describe girls, or gals, with a tan, lightened hair and some brand clothing; they can often be confused with ''Oneegyaru'' (Big Sister Gal) and ''Serebu'' (Celeb), although ''Oneegyaru'' is usually associated with expensive gal brands and ''Serebu'' focuses on expensive western fashions.

Fashion magazines like ''Egg'' and ''Ageha'' have had a direct influence on the ''ganguro''. Other popular ''ganguro'' magazines include '' Popteen'' and ''Ego System''. The ''ganguro'' culture is often linked with '' para para'', a Japanese dance style. However, most para para dancers are not ganguro, and most ganguro are not para para dancers, though there are many who are ganguro or gal and dance para para.

One of the most famous early ''ganguro'' girls was known as Buriteri, nicknamed after the black soy sauce used to flavor yellowtail fish in teriyaki cooking. ''Egg'' made her a star by frequently featuring her in its pages during the height of the ''ganguro'' craze. After modelling and advertising for the Shibuya tanning salon "Blacky", social pressure and negative press convinced Buriteri to retire from the ''ganguro'' lifestyle.

Yamanba and Manba

and are styles which developed from ''ganguro''. Old school ''yamanba'' and ''manba'' (particularly known as 2004 Manba) featured dark tans and white lipstick, pastel eye makeup, tiny metallic or glittery adhesives below the eyes, brightly coloured circle lenses, plastic dayglo-coloured clothing, and incongruous accessories, such as Hawaiian ''leis''. Stickers on the face died out shortly after 2004 and, for a while, ''yamanba'' died. ''Manba'' then became more extreme, with multicoloured and usually synthetic hair. ''Manba'' in 2008 saw a darker tan, and no facial stickers. Hair was usually neon/bright colours, with pink being a favourite. Wool emulating dreadlocks, extensions, and clips were worn to make hair appear longer. Clothing remained the same, although ''leis'' were worn less frequently.

''Yamanba'' and ''manba'' are distinct from one another. Yamanba involves white make-up only above the eye, while manba makeup is applied below the eye also. Stuffed animals, bracelets, bells and hibiscus flowers are worn. The male equivalent is called a "Center guy", a pun on the name of a popular pedestrian shopping street near Shibuya Station in Tokyo called .

Etymology

Ganguro practitioners say that the term derives from the phrase . The word ''ganguro'' can be translated as "burn-black look", and "dark tanning".

The term ''yamanba'' is derived from Yama-uba, the name of a mountain hag in Japanese folklore whom the fashion is thought to resemble.

See also

* AV idol
* Burusera
* Cosplay restaurant
* ''Gals!''
* Gyaru
* Host and hostess clubs
* JK business
* Kawaii
* Kogal
* Maid café
* Panchira
* '' Peach Girl''
* ''Zettai ryōiki''
* Sun tanning

References

External links

The Ganguro Effect

"British followers of Japanese fashion"
��BBC World Service article

{{Japanese subcultures

Japanese subcultures
Japanese fashion
Slang terms for women
Female stock characters in anime and manga
Gyaru