Wildsmith Shoes
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Wildsmith Shoes is a high-end English handmade
footwear Footwear refers to garments worn on the feet, which typically serves the purpose of protection against adversities of the environment such as wear from ground textures and temperature. Footwear in the manner of shoes therefore primarily serves th ...
manufacturer, founded in London in 1847 by husband and wife team, Matthew and Rebecca Wildsmith. They based their business on making and repairing
boot A boot is a type of footwear. Most boots mainly cover the foot and the ankle, while some also cover some part of the lower calf. Some boots extend up the leg, sometimes as far as the knee or even the hip. Most boots have a heel that is cle ...
s for the
Household Cavalry The Household Cavalry (HCav) is made up of the two most senior regiments of the British Army, the Life Guards and the Blues and Royals (Royal Horse Guards and 1st Dragoons). These regiments are divided between the Household Cavalry Regiment st ...
. Wildsmith was bought from John Wildsmith in 2013 by
Savile Row tailoring Savile Row tailoring is men and women's bespoke tailoring that takes place on Savile Row and neighbouring streets in Mayfair, Central London. In 1846, Henry Poole, credited as being the "Founder of Savile Row", opened an entrance to his tail ...
company, Cad & The Dandy and was subsequently bought by Herring Shoes in 2016 to produce luxury ready-to-wear men's footwear. John Wildsmith is widely credited with the saying, "You are either in your bed or in your shoes so it pays to invest in both".


History

After opening their first shop, off London's
Piccadilly Piccadilly () is a road in the City of Westminster, London, to the south of Mayfair, between Hyde Park Corner in the west and Piccadilly Circus in the east. It is part of the A4 road that connects central London to Hammersmith, Earl's Court, ...
, Matthew and Rebecca Wildsmith quickly gained a loyal following and began crafting bespoke shoes for many Royals and luminaries. Subsequently, a ready-to-wear collection was introduced. The company moved to London's Duke Street in 1948 and then on to
Princes Arcade Princes Arcade is an arcade of shops running between Piccadilly and Jermyn Street in central London. It is home to a number of small menswear shops and boutiques. The arcade is located on the site of the former Princes Hotel, designed by Edward ...
in the late 1960s. It was around this time that the company began to gain a wider international reputation as Matthew and Rebecca's great-grandson, John Wildsmith, took the brand around the world. He gathered together a team of tailors and shirt makers and they travelled across various countries delivering a service that became known as The Three S's – suits, shirts and shoes. Manufacture of the original Wildsmith ready to wear collections went to Northampton in the 1960s and included manufacturers such as Edward Green. By the 1990s the brand had lost its way and many styles were simply rebranded stock shoes from other manufacturers with little of the original design for which Wildsmith had been famous. The customer base, which has always been very strong in the US and Japan as well as the UK dwindled. Famous wearers included actors such as
David Niven James David Graham Niven (; 1 March 1910 – 29 July 1983) was a British actor, soldier, memoirist, and novelist. He won the Academy Award for Best Actor for his performance as Major Pollock in ''Separate Tables'' (1958). Niven's other roles ...
, politicians and members of the royal family.


The Wildsmith Loafer

In 1926 Matthew and Rebecca Wildsmith's grandson, Raymond Lewis Wildsmith, made a bespoke country house shoe for
King George V George V (George Frederick Ernest Albert; 3 June 1865 – 20 January 1936) was King of the United Kingdom and the British Dominions, and Emperor of India, from 6 May 1910 until his death in 1936. Born during the reign of his grandmother Que ...
, to be worn inside with his shooting hose. From there, the design was evolved to be a casual style for outdoor wear which was then included in their ready to wear collection. The shoe was first called the 582, then the Model 98 until finally becoming known as "The Wildsmith Loafer". This was London's first introduction to the English loafer, a version of the generic slip-on shoe. The style continues to be sold to this day as the Windsor Loafer.


Method

The new range of shoes created under the ownership of Herring shoes concentrates on unique designs and indulgence. All of the shoes are made in Northamptonshire, England where the factories are specialists in the Goodyear welting process that is at the core of the designs. Some lines also have
oak bark Tanbark is the bark of certain species of trees, traditionally used for tanning hides into leather. The words "tannin", "tanning", "tan," and " tawny" are derived from the Medieval Latin ''tannare'', "to convert into leather." Bark mills are ...
soles and in-channel stitching where the welt stitch is cleverly hidden within the sole.


Company today

Wildsmith was bought in 2016 by Herring Shoes as a sub-brand to keep the famous Wildsmith name alive. The company continues to work with Northamptonshire
cordwainer A cordwainer () is a shoemaker who makes new shoes from new leather. The cordwainer's trade can be contrasted with the cobbler's trade, according to a tradition in Britain that restricted cobblers to repairing shoes. This usage distinction is ...
s. Wildsmith shoes are sold worldwide, with a price range generally between £300 and £500.


References


External links

*{{Official website, http://www.wildsmith.com
Q&A with Chay Cooper in The Holborn Magazine
1847 establishments in the United Kingdom Shoe companies of the United Kingdom Shops in London Manufacturing companies based in London Shoemakers Shoe brands English brands