Westelijke Eilanden
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Westelijke Eilanden (, Western Islands) are three islands in the Centrum district of
Amsterdam Amsterdam ( , , , lit. ''The Dam on the River Amstel'') is the Capital of the Netherlands, capital and Municipalities of the Netherlands, most populous city of the Netherlands, with The Hague being the seat of government. It has a population ...
: Bickerseiland, Prinseneiland and Realeneiland. They are located to the south of the IJ and the
Zeeheldenbuurt The Zeeheldenbuurt is a neighbourhood of Amsterdam, Netherlands. Located in the borough Amsterdam-West, it borders directly on the Westelijke Eilanden to the west. It lies between the Westerkanaal and the Westerdok; to the north is Houthaven Hout ...
, to the north of the railway line between
Central Station Central stations or central railway stations emerged in the second half of the nineteenth century as railway stations that had initially been built on the edge of city centres were enveloped by urban expansion and became an integral part of the ...
and Amsterdam-Sloterdijk, to the west of the Westerdok and to the east of the Planciusbuurt on the Westerkanaal. The Westelijke Eilanden form the core of the Golden Reael area, which also includes the adjacent Westerdok island, the Haarlemmerbuurt and the Planciusbuurt. The Westelijke Eilanden form a small world apart from the city. They are suitable for walks, which Joannes Antonides van der Goes recommended in a poem, ''Ystroom'', as early as 1671. They are often used for filming. There have always been warehouses and shipyards on the Westelijke Eilanden. They formed an important part of the atmosphere on the islands, a combination of working and living. The islands are sometimes called the "Mokum Archipelago".


History

The Nieuwe Waal was deepened in the IJ in 1610 and demarcated with rows of poles as an extension of the
Port of Amsterdam The port of Amsterdam ( nl, Haven van Amsterdam) is a seaport in Amsterdam in North Holland, Netherlands. It is the 4th busiest port in Europe by metric tonnes of cargo. The port is located on the bank of a former bay named the IJ and the Nor ...
. This left an area of almost floating or loose peat in the corner of the IJ, which needed to be stabilized. Between 1611 and 1615 three large artificial islands were created there, protected by a large bulwark that extended as far as the IJ. This was part of the Third Expansion - '' Derde Uitleg'' (nl) - of Amsterdam, for which the first plans date from 1610. Land speculation by a number of council members, including Frans Hendricksz. Oetgens, led to a riot in the council in 1614. If the speculators had got their way it would have led to the need for extensive buy-out of land by the city, or a reduction in income to the city.


Names of the islands

Initially, the three largest islands were called Vooreiland, Middeneiland and Achtereiland. They were connected by eight bridges. The Vooreiland was renamed Bickerseiland after
Jan Bicker Jan Gerritsz. Bicker (1591–1653) was a merchant, a mayor (burgomaster) and a member of the Bicker family, an influential patrician family from Amsterdam. De Bickers were part of the ''staatsgezinde partij'' (the pro-republican party) and oppone ...
, a descendant of the Bicker merchant family who had managed the construction in the city administration. Achtereiland was for the same reason named Realeneiland after Jacob Reael. Middeneiland was named Prinseneiland after the first three
Princes of Orange Prince of Orange (or Princess of Orange if the holder is female) is a title originally associated with the sovereign Principality of Orange, in what is now southern France and subsequently held by sovereigns in the Netherlands. The title ...
. In contrast to the Eastern Islands, shipyards and warehouses on the Westelijke Eilanden were not involved with the
Dutch East India Company The United East India Company ( nl, Verenigde Oostindische Compagnie, the VOC) was a chartered company established on the 20th March 1602 by the States General of the Netherlands amalgamating existing companies into the first joint-stock ...
or the
Admiralty of Amsterdam The Admiralty of Amsterdam was the largest of the five Dutch admiralties at the time of the Dutch Republic The United Provinces of the Netherlands, also known as the (Seven) United Provinces, officially as the Republic of the Seven ...
, but with the
Dutch West India Company The Dutch West India Company ( nl, Geoctrooieerde Westindische Compagnie, ''WIC'' or ''GWC''; ; en, Chartered West India Company) was a chartered company of Dutch merchants as well as foreign investors. Among its founders was Willem Usselincx ( ...
and the trade in the Levant and the Baltic Sea. One shipyard built pleasure boats. The warehouses stored herring, grain, tobacco, wine, salt, anchovies, cat skins, pitch and tar. The Silodam, Zoutkeetsgracht, Bokkinghangen, Nieuwe Teertuinen and Breeuwerstraten owe their names to the activities of grain storage, salt refining, fish smoking, tarring and calking.


Port falls into decay

Until the end of the 19th century this was an area with many shipyards, small industries and warehouses. On the islands and in the immediate vicinity there were also salt sheds,
buckling In structural engineering, buckling is the sudden change in shape (deformation) of a structural component under load, such as the bowing of a column under compression or the wrinkling of a plate under shear. If a structure is subjected to a gr ...
smokehouses, and tar and tanning works where ship timbers, sails and fishing nets were preserved. Then the ships became too large for this port, and the development of the Eastern Docklands took over the role the Westelijke Eilanden had played for more than 200 years. During the first half of the 20th century, the neighborhood fell into decay. Nevertheless, much has been preserved of the atmosphere of the busy past. File:Realen.jpg, Warehouses on Realeneiland File:Stadsarchief Amsterdam, Afb 012000004118.jpg, Warehouses on Prinseneiland File:Stadsarchief Amsterdam, Afb 012000004123.jpg, Five similar warehouses once owned by Neeltje Pater


Bickerseiland

Bickerseiland, originally the Vooreiland, was named after the Bicker patrician and merchant family who owned land there. There were a dozen shipyards on Bickerseiland. A marina was built at an early stage. There was a three-aisled wooden church from 1660, which was replaced by a stone building around 1736. After this Island Church was closed in 1939 and demolished in 1950, the churches were used for the restoration of the floor of St. Martin's Church, Bolsward. Some of the household items ended up in a restaurant on the Haarlemmerstraat. Bickerseiland is no longer an island due to the construction of the railway embankment between Westerdok and Westerpoort (1878) for the
Den Helder–Amsterdam railway The Den Helder–Amsterdam railway is a railway line in the Netherlands running from Den Helder to Amsterdam, passing through Alkmaar and Zaandam. It is also called the '' Staatslijn K'' ("state line K") in Dutch. The line is 81 km long. The ...
.


Prinseneiland

This island, at first called the Middeneiland, was named after the (first three) Princes of Orange Princes Island. After a city council conflict that lasted ten years, the sale of building plots on Princes' Island began in 1623. The island was intended for wood storage and tar. Of the 900 warehouses in Amsterdam, more than one hundred were on Prinseneiland. An attempt in 1662 to call the Galgenstraat the Prinsendwarsstraat never got off the ground. Neeltje Pater from
Broek in Waterland Broek in Waterland is a village in the province of North Holland, Netherlands with a population of about 2,745 inhabitants as of 2021. It is a part of the municipality of Waterland, and is situated about 8 km south of Purmerend and 8 km ...
inherited at least eleven warehouses on the island. Hardly anyone lived on Prinseneiland until after
World War II World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposin ...
. The island was rediscovered by the artists
Jan Sierhuis Jan Sierhuis is a painter, born in 1928, in Amsterdam Amsterdam ( , , , lit. ''The Dam on the River Amstel'') is the Capital of the Netherlands, capital and Municipalities of the Netherlands, most populous city of the Netherlands, with Th ...
,
Johan van der Keuken Johan van der Keuken (; 4 April 1938 – 7 January 2001) was a Dutch documentary filmmaker, author, and photographer. In a career that spanned 42 years, Van der Keuken produced 55 documentary films, six of which won eight awards. He also wrot ...
, Jef Diederen, Reinier Lucassen,
Peter Schat Peter Ane Schat (5 June 1935, in Utrecht – 3 February 2003, in Amsterdam) was a Dutch composer. Schat studied composition with Kees van Baaren at the Utrecht Conservatoire and the Royal Conservatory of The Hague from 1952 until 1958, and then ...
and
Willem Breuker Willem Breuker (4 November 1944 – 23 July 2010) was a Dutch bandleader, composer, arranger, saxophonist, and clarinetist. Career During the mid 1960s, he played with percussionist Han Bennink and pianist Misha Mengelberg, co-founding the Insta ...
. Since then, the island has turned into an attractive residential and working area. Most of the warehouses have been divided into apartments. The neighborhood still attracts many people with an artistic background: actors, musicians, furniture makers, program makers and artists, such as
Benno Premsela Benno Premsela (Amsterdam, 4 May 1920 – Amsterdam, 27 March 1997) was a Dutch designer, visual artist and art collector. As designer he was active as textile artist, industrial designer and interior designer.
, Ans Marcus, Willem Nijholt, Tijmen Ploeg, Raoul Hynckes, Han Wezelaar, Auke Hettema and
Martijn Padding Martijn Padding (born 24 April 1956) is a Dutch composer and educator. Padding was born in Amsterdam, and was taught by Louis Andriessen (composition), Geert van Keulen (instrumentation) and Fania Chapiro (piano). He also studied sonology at the U ...
. There are 38 national monuments on the island.


Realeneiland

The Realeneiland, at first called Achtereiland, was named after the Reael family, who owned land there. In 1617 cheap land on the Achtereiland started to be provided to herring fishermen from outside the city. A herring bakery was built in 1648 by the Reael family on the Zandhoek, the side that bordered on the IJ (now shielded by Westerdok and Westerdoksdijk). The
gable stone Gable stones (Dutch ''gevelstenen'') are carved and often colourfully painted stone tablets, which are set into the walls of buildings, usually at about 4 metres from the ground. They serve both to identify and embellish the building. They are al ...
depicted a '' Golden Reaal'', a Spanish/Portuguese coin that was used all over the world at the beginning of the 17th century. It showed one holding an image of
Emperor Charles V Charles V, french: Charles Quint, it, Carlo V, nl, Karel V, ca, Carles V, la, Carolus V (24 February 1500 – 21 September 1558) was Holy Roman Emperor and Archduke of Austria from 1519 to 1556, King of Spain ( Castile and Aragon) ...
. It made such an impression in the 20th century that the neighborhood was called the Golden Reaal. Reael gave credit to ship carpenters, who did not have to pay rent for the first twelve years, but had to deliver a ship. He also had houses built on the island, which the city opposed. The Tar Company of Joseph Deutz got a large yard on the Realen Island in 1664. Until 1673 there was also a peat market. Sand was stored on the Zandhoek, which was used as ballast and for raising streets and neighborhoods in the center. As early as 1676 there was a brandy distillery at the Drieharingenbrug, called ''De drie gecroonde haringen'' (''The three crowned herrings''). These business premises were demolished around 1780 by shipbuilder Haring Booy and rebuilt as a sort of country house. For many years, the tobacco firm
British American Tobacco British American Tobacco plc (BAT) is a British multinational company that manufactures and sells cigarettes, tobacco and other nicotine products. The company, established in 1902, is headquartered in London, England. As of 2019, it is the large ...
was established on Realeneiland. The island became known through the books of Jan Mens about the Golden Reael. There are still thirteen impressive captain's houses.


Miscellaneous

*
Jacob Olie Jacob Olie (1834 – 1905) was a photographer from Amsterdam known for his scenes of everyday life there. Olie was born in Amsterdam and was trained as a carpenter and draughtsman.Jacob Olie (Jbz) in the RKD He became a teacher at the local sch ...
came from the Westelijke Eilanden and photographed the area extensively. *
George Hendrik Breitner George Hendrik Breitner (12 September 1857 – 5 June 1923) was a Dutch painter and photographer. An important figure in Amsterdam Impressionism, he is noted especially for his paintings of street scenes and harbours in a realistic style. He pa ...
(1857-1923) and
Kees Maks Cornelis Johannes Maks (August 22, 1876 – October 28, 1967), known as Kees Maks, was a Dutch painter born in Amsterdam. He studied for a time at the Rijksakademie in Amsterdam, before becoming a pupil of George Hendrik Breitner.Jansen ...
(1876-1967) worked on Prinseneiland. * The so-called Open Workshop Days take place around Pentecost on the Westelijke Eilanden.


Bridges

The connections to and between the Westelijke Eilanden consist of
drawbridge A drawbridge or draw-bridge is a type of moveable bridge typically at the entrance to a castle or tower surrounded by a moat. In some forms of English, including American English, the word ''drawbridge'' commonly refers to all types of moveable ...
s. File:Hilverdink, Johannes J. A. (1813-1902), Afb 010097010353.jpg, Realengracht in 1855 by Johannes Hilverdink (1813-1902) File:Zandhoekbrug Amsterdam.jpg , Zandhoek Bridge seen from Westerdok File:Amsterdam Brug 317 Petemayenbrug.jpg , Bridge 317 Petemayen bridge, connection Zeeheldenbuurt to Realeneiland at the Zandhoek File:Amsterdam Brug 320 Drieharingenbrug Realengracht.jpg , Bridge 320 Drieharingen bridge over Realengracht, behind it Bridge 316 Zandhoek bridge File:Overzicht ophaalbrug - Amsterdam - 20409008 - RCE.jpg , Drieharingen bridge from the south File:Prinseneiland 4.jpg , Prinseneiland seen from Drieharingenbrug File:Amsterdam Brug 321 Sloterdijkerbrug.jpg , Bridge 321 Sloterdijker bridge, connection Zeeheldenbuurt to Prinseneiland File:Prinseneiland 1.jpg , Sloterdijkerbrug, a wooden drawbridge to Prinseneiland File:Stadsarchief Amsterdam, Afb OSIM00001004731.jpg , Sloterdijkerbrug to Prinseneiland around 1920


See also

*
Gouden Reael The Gouden Reael is a traditional designation for an area of the city of Amsterdam in the Netherlands. It consists of the current neighborhood Westelijke Eilanden ("Western Islands", i.e. Prinseneiland, Bickerseiland and Realeneiland) plus the W ...


References


Sources

* * * *


External links


Bickerseiland (Bickers Island) Video on YouTubePrinseneiland (Prince Island) Video on YouTubeRealeneiland (Realen Island Video on YouTubeGebruik de groene knoppen rechts om een virtuele wandeling te maken over de Westelijke eilanden

Foto's van de buurt
{{Neighborhoods of Amsterdam Neighbourhoods of Amsterdam