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The ruined lighthouse at Waugoshance protects boats from a
shoal In oceanography, geomorphology, and geoscience, a shoal is a natural submerged ridge, bank, or bar that consists of, or is covered by, sand or other unconsolidated material and rises from the bed of a body of water to near the surface. It ...
area at the northern end of
Lake Michigan Lake Michigan is one of the five Great Lakes of North America. It is the second-largest of the Great Lakes by volume () and the third-largest by surface area (), after Lake Superior and Lake Huron. To the east, its basin is conjoined with that o ...
. The lighthouse is located in
Emmet County, Michigan Emmet County is a county located in the U.S. state of Michigan. It is the northernmost county in the Lower Peninsula. As of the 2020 Census, the population was 34,112. The county seat is Petoskey. Emmet County is located at the top of the Low ...
, United States, and in U.S. Coast Guard District No. 9. It is about west of
Mackinaw City Mackinaw City ( ) is a village in Emmet and Cheboygan counties in the U.S. state of Michigan. The population was 846 at the 2010 census, the population increases during summertime, including an influx of tourists and seasonal workers who serve ...
. Due to erosion and deterioration, the lighthouse is deteriorating and critically endangered, and likely to fall into the lake in the near future.


Reason for lighthouse

Boats from Chicago heading North (and ultimately) East need to navigate the narrow tip of northern Lake Michigan, and there are many dangers. The area around
Waugoshance Point Waugoshance Point (GNIS ID#) is a cape or peninsula that juts into Lake Michigan from the northwest coast of the Lower Peninsula of the U.S. state of Michigan in Emmet County. It separates the Straits of Mackinac to its north from Sturgeon B ...
is not only shallow, it's a large (in area) projection from the bottom of the lake. Boats large enough to safely travel in times of storm cannot approach the light closer than a few hundred yards. Adding to the complication of navigation in this area is the White Shoal, located just north of Waugoshance. This area is currently protected by White Shoal Light—built in 1910, nearby, powerful and larger—and
Grays Reef Light The Grays Reef Light is a lighthouse located in northeastern Lake Michigan, west of Waugoshance Island in Bliss Township, Michigan. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2005. History In the 1880s, as shipments of iron o ...
which rendered this lighthouse obsolete.
National Park Service The National Park Service (NPS) is an agency of the United States federal government within the U.S. Department of the Interior that manages all national parks, most national monuments, and other natural, historical, and recreational propertie ...
br>Maritime History, Inventory of Historic Light Stations, Waugoshance Shoal Light.
/ref> During the last half of the nineteenth century, this light marked the turning point for ships traveling through the
Straits of Mackinac The Straits of Mackinac ( ; french: Détroit de Mackinac) are the short waterways between the U.S. state of Michigan's Upper and Lower Peninsulas, traversed by the Mackinac Bridge. The main strait is wide with a maximum depth of , and connects ...
and along
Lake Michigan Lake Michigan is one of the five Great Lakes of North America. It is the second-largest of the Great Lakes by volume () and the third-largest by surface area (), after Lake Superior and Lake Huron. To the east, its basin is conjoined with that o ...
's eastern shore between the mainland and the Beavers. With a water less than deep, it was "one of the most dangerous parts of the Straits." Thereafter, a "Gray's Reef passage" became more typical because modern freighters require considerably more depth, so Waugoshance is bypassed about to the west.


History

In 1832 the first
lightvessel A lightvessel, or lightship, is a ship that acts as a lighthouse. They are used in waters that are too deep or otherwise unsuitable for lighthouse construction. Although some records exist of fire beacons being placed on ships in Roman times, t ...
on the
Great Lakes The Great Lakes, also called the Great Lakes of North America, are a series of large interconnected freshwater lakes in the mid-east region of North America that connect to the Atlantic Ocean via the Saint Lawrence River. There are five lakes ...
was placed here. That wooden lightship was the ''Lois McLain''. In 1851 she was replaced by the Waugoshance Light, which stands in the area of the
Wilderness State Park Wilderness State Park is a public recreation area bordering Lake Michigan, five miles southwest of Mackinaw City, Michigan, Mackinaw City in Emmet County, Michigan, Emmet County in Northern Michigan. The state park's include of shoreline, d ...
, and which remains one of the most hazardous areas near the
Straits of Mackinac The Straits of Mackinac ( ; french: Détroit de Mackinac) are the short waterways between the U.S. state of Michigan's Upper and Lower Peninsulas, traversed by the Mackinac Bridge. The main strait is wide with a maximum depth of , and connects ...
,
Michigan Michigan () is a state in the Great Lakes region of the upper Midwestern United States. With a population of nearly 10.12 million and an area of nearly , Michigan is the 10th-largest state by population, the 11th-largest by area, and the ...
. The last light vessel on the Great Lakes was the Lightship Huron. The lighthouse at Waugoshance was arguably the first light built in the Great Lakes that was totally surrounded by water. Both its construction and its continued maintenance were rendered extremely hazardous by the severe weather conditions of the area. Waugoshance is at the northern end of the long fetch of "south-wester" waves on Lake Michigan; the wave action is amplified as they build upon the shoal. The imposing crib structure was a first on the Great Lakes. The pier was reconstructed in 1870—a massive undertaking that was hampered by the ironic fact that the viable 'building season' is far shorter than even the normal operating season for the light—and used a "bird cage" lantern, which makes it one of only three built on the Great Lakes. The lantern originally held the first fourth order Fresnel lens on the Great Lakes. Although the light is now gray in color, it was originally painted in four broad horizontal Red and white stripes as a
Daymark A daymark is a navigational aid for sailors and pilots, distinctively marked to maximize its visibility in daylight. The word is also used in a more specific, technical sense to refer to a signboard or daytime identifier that is attached to a ...
. Its walls were encased in steel, and are 5½ feet thick at the bottom. The Waugoshance Light operated from 1851 until its deactivation in 1912, when it remained the property of the U.S. federal government. The encasement was similar to
Big Sable Point Light The Big Sable Point Light is a lighthouse on the eastern shore of Lake Michigan near Ludington in Mason County, Michigan, at the Ludington State Park. It is an active aid to navigation.
, which was made from
Cream City Brick Cream City brick is a cream or light yellow-colored brick made from a clay found around Milwaukee, Wisconsin, in the Menomonee River Valley and on the western banks of Lake Michigan. These bricks were one of the most common building materials u ...
, and also had to be encased in
steel Steel is an alloy made up of iron with added carbon to improve its strength and fracture resistance compared to other forms of iron. Many other elements may be present or added. Stainless steels that are corrosion- and oxidation-resistant ty ...
boiler A boiler is a closed vessel in which fluid (generally water) is heated. The fluid does not necessarily boil. The heated or vaporized fluid exits the boiler for use in various processes or heating applications, including water heating, central h ...
plate to retard the deterioration. Of particular note were the efforts of
Lighthouse keeper A lighthouse keeper or lightkeeper is a person responsible for tending and caring for a lighthouse, particularly the light and lens in the days when oil lamps and clockwork mechanisms were used. Lighthouse keepers were sometimes referred to as ...
s who rang bells for many days, trying to ward mariners and their vessels off the shoal as they groped through the smoke from the many fires —
1871 Great Chicago Fire The Great Chicago Fire was a conflagration that burned in the American city of Chicago during October 8–10, 1871. The fire killed approximately 300 people, destroyed roughly of the city including over 17,000 structures, and left more than 10 ...
, Peshtigo Fire,
Northern Michigan Northern Michigan, also known as Northern Lower Michigan (known colloquially to residents of more southerly parts of the state and summer residents from cities such as Detroit as " Up North"), is a region of the U.S. state of Michigan. A popul ...
including large tracts around
Manistee, Michigan Manistee ( ') is a city in the U.S. state of Michigan. Located in southwestern Manistee County, Michigan, Manistee County, it is part of the northwestern Lower Peninsula of Michigan, Lower Peninsula. Manistee is the county seat of Manistee County ...
,
Western Michigan West Michigan and Western Michigan are terms for an arbitrary region in the U.S. state of Michigan's Lower Peninsula. Most narrowly it refers to the Grand Rapids-Muskegon-Holland, Michigan, Holland area, and more broadly to most of the region a ...
around
Holland Holland is a geographical regionG. Geerts & H. Heestermans, 1981, ''Groot Woordenboek der Nederlandse Taal. Deel I'', Van Dale Lexicografie, Utrecht, p 1105 and former province on the western coast of the Netherlands. From the 10th to the 16th c ...
and the fire in
the Thumb The Thumb is a region and a peninsula of the U.S. state of Michigan, so named because the Lower Peninsula is shaped like a mitten. The Thumb area is generally considered to be in the Central Michigan region, east of the Tri-Cities and north of M ...
near
Port Huron Port Huron is a city in the U.S. state of Michigan and the county seat of St. Clair County. The population was 30,184 at the 2010 census. The city is adjacent to Port Huron Township but is administered separately. Located along the St. Clair ...
—that took place beginning October 8, 1871, casting an impenetrable pall across Lake Michigan for the better part of a week. However, many vessels were lost. During
World War II World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposin ...
, the abandoned light was used by the
U.S. Navy The United States Navy (USN) is the maritime service branch of the United States Armed Forces and one of the eight uniformed services of the United States. It is the largest and most powerful navy in the world, with the estimated tonnage of ...
for bombing practice. The
Lighthouse keeper A lighthouse keeper or lightkeeper is a person responsible for tending and caring for a lighthouse, particularly the light and lens in the days when oil lamps and clockwork mechanisms were used. Lighthouse keepers were sometimes referred to as ...
's house and all of the wood framing in the lighthouse burned. The metal shell has fallen away. Today, the lighthouse "is considered one of the most endangered lighthouses in the world." It has been said that, ". . . . it is amazing that anything remains." The light was the object of a thirty year long struggle to save it. The nonprofit Waugoschance Lighthouse Preservation Society was formed by Chris West, and they bought it from the Coast Guard. They performed intermittent repairs. However, given the deterioration during 2019 and 2020, due to rising water levels, the organization has given up. The structure has been given back to the Coast Guard. While the fans have now transmuted and formed an admiration society, they asked to remove and preserve the unique 'birdcage' cap. That request was denied.


Current status

The light is listed on the National Register, Reference #83000841, Name of Listing: WAUGOSHANCE LIGHT STATION (U.S. COAST GUARD/GREAT LAKES TR). It is not on the state list inventory. It is said to be both a "nautical gravestone" (because of the many wrecks in the vicinity) and on the "most endangered list" of lighthouses, being on the
Lighthouse Digest ''Lighthouse Digest'', a specialty magazine from FogHorn Publishing in East Machias, Maine, is about maritime history with particular attention to the preservation of lighthouses and their past. Though it is geared toward enthusiasts and antiqu ...
"
Doomsday List ''Lighthouse Digest'', a specialty magazine from FogHorn Publishing in East Machias, Maine, is about maritime history with particular attention to the preservation of lighthouses and their past. Though it is geared toward enthusiasts and anti ...
." It is one of six in Michigan; the remaining five are:
Charity Island Light Charity Island Light is a lighthouse on Big Charity Island in Lake Huron just off the coast of Au Gres, Northern Michigan. History In 1838, the region was the source of lumber being removed from Lower Michigan via the rivers that enter the low ...
, Fourteen Mile Point Light, Gull Rock Light, Manitou Island Light and
Poverty Island Light The Poverty Island Light is a light house located on Poverty Island in northwestern Lake Michigan, south of Garden Peninsula. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2005 as the Poverty Island Light Station. History In 186 ...
. The Waugoshance Lighthouse Preservation Society was formed in 2000. It undertook preservation and restoration. The Society's "first priority as... raising funds to stabilize the building." It solicitied funds to rebuild the light, and got an extended lease from the U.S. Coast Guard, so that restoration can continue. In 2009, under the terms of the
National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Act The National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Act of 2000 (NHLPA; Public Law 106-355; 16 U.S.C. 470w-7) is American legislation creating a process for the transfer of federally owned lighthouses into private hands. It was created as an extension o ...
the lighthouse was put up for public sale. Another source reports, however, that "In 2009,
t was T, or t, is the twentieth letter in the Latin alphabet, used in the modern English alphabet, the alphabets of other western European languages and others worldwide. Its name in English is ''tee'' (pronounced ), plural ''tees''. It is deri ...
deemed excess by the U.S. Coast Guard", so it was "offered at no cost to eligible entities, including federal, state, and local agencies, non-profit corporations, and educational organizations under the provisions of the National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Act of 2000." In January 2021, the 501c-3 organization dedicated to the preservation of the lighthouse announced in a facebook post that, owing to prohibitively high costs for long term preservation, the non-profit would be dissolving and that funds raised for preservation would be donated "to local organizations with similar missions." Just stabilizing the foundation would cost $300,000.


Access

The lighthouse is closed to the public. A private boat is recommended to see this light close up. These are, however, dangerous and open water over wide expanses far from shore and interlaced by
shoals In oceanography, geomorphology, and geoscience, a shoal is a natural submerged ridge, bank, or bar that consists of, or is covered by, sand or other unconsolidated material and rises from the bed of a body of water to near the surface. It o ...
, so caution is advised. The structure is filled with
cormorant Phalacrocoracidae is a family of approximately 40 species of aquatic birds commonly known as cormorants and shags. Several different classifications of the family have been proposed, but in 2021 the IOC adopted a consensus taxonomy of seven ge ...
guano Guano (Spanish from qu, wanu) is the accumulated excrement of seabirds or bats. As a manure, guano is a highly effective fertilizer due to the high content of nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium, all key nutrients essential for plant growth. G ...
, and anyone going onto the lighthouse has to disembark, swim, and take a ladder. Thus, entrance is daunting, if not impossible. Chris West, founder of the lighthouse society, offers boat rides. He is the harbor master at the Mackinaw City Municipal Marina, and owns the "Ugly Anne Tour Company", which operates a converted lobster boat that was brought from
Maine Maine () is a state in the New England and Northeastern regions of the United States. It borders New Hampshire to the west, the Gulf of Maine to the southeast, and the Canadian provinces of New Brunswick and Quebec to the northeast and north ...
. He says that it is no longer a question of 'if' the light will fall into the lake, but rather is a question of 'when.' Short of that, Shepler's Ferry Service out of Mackinaw City offers periodic lighthouse cruises in the summer season. Its "westbound Lighthouse Tour"—three hours more or less—includes passes by various lights, including Waugoshance Light, White Shoal Light,
Wilderness State Park Wilderness State Park is a public recreation area bordering Lake Michigan, five miles southwest of Mackinaw City, Michigan, Mackinaw City in Emmet County, Michigan, Emmet County in Northern Michigan. The state park's include of shoreline, d ...
, Gray's Reef Light (originally built in 1891), and St. Helena Island Light. Schedules and rates are available from Shepler's. Another alternative is to charter a
seaplane A seaplane is a powered fixed-wing aircraft capable of takeoff, taking off and water landing, landing (alighting) on water.Gunston, "The Cambridge Aerospace Dictionary", 2009. Seaplanes are usually divided into two categories based on their tec ...
to make a tour of the Mackinac Straits and environs.Stoke, Keith, ''A seaplane tour of the Straits''


References


Further reading

* "A Tour of the Lights of the Straits." Michigan History 70 (Sep/Oct 1986), pp. 17–29. *


External links


Aerial photos, Waugoshance Light, marinas.com.
* Waugoshance Shoal Light.
Waugoshance Lighthouse Preservation Society.
{{authority control Lighthouses completed in 1850 Houses completed in 1850 Lighthouses on the National Register of Historic Places in Michigan Buildings and structures in Emmet County, Michigan National Register of Historic Places in Emmet County, Michigan