Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov (russian: Вита́лий Миха́йлович Абала́ков) ( – 26 May 1986

Great Russian Encyclopedia The ''Great Russian Encyclopedia'' (GRE; russian: Большая российская энциклопедия, БРЭ, transliterated as ''Bolshaya rossiyskaya entsiklopediya'' or academically as ''Bolšaja rossijskaja enciklopedija'') is a u ...

(2006),

Moscow Moscow ( , US chiefly ; rus, links=no, Москва, r=Moskva, p=mɐskˈva, a=Москва.ogg) is the capital and largest city of Russia. The city stands on the Moskva River in Central Russia, with a population estimated at 13.0 million ...

: Bol'shaya Rossiyskaya Enciklopediya Publisher, vol. 1, p. 9) was a

Soviet The Soviet Union,. officially the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics. (USSR),. was a List of former transcontinental countries#Since 1700, transcontinental country that spanned much of Eurasia from 1922 to 1991. A flagship communist state, ...

chemical engineer In the field of engineering, a chemical engineer is a professional, equipped with the knowledge of chemical engineering, who works principally in the chemical industry to convert basic raw materials into a variety of products and deals with the ...

mountaineer Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, an ...

and

inventor An invention is a unique or novel device, method, composition, idea or process. An invention may be an improvement upon a machine, product, or process for increasing efficiency or lowering cost. It may also be an entirely new concept. If an ...

. Brother of

Yevgeniy Abalakov Yevgeniy Mikhaylovich Abalakov (russian: Евгений Михайлович Абалаков; 23 March 1948Great Russian Encyclopedia (2006), Moscow: Bol'shaya Rossiyskaya Enciklopediya Publisher, vol. 1, p. 9) was a Soviet mountaineer and sculpt ...

, another famous alpinist, he made the first Soviet ascent of

Lenin Peak Lenin Peak or Ibn Sina (Avicenna) Peak ( ky, Ленин Чокусу, ''Lenin Choqusu'', لەنىن چوقۇسۇ; russian: Пик Ленина, ''Pik Lenina''; tg, қуллаи Ленин , ''qulla‘i Lenin/qullaji Lenin'', renamed қулла� ...

in 1934 and two more ascents of this mountain. In 1936 he also made the ascent of

Khan Tengri Khan Tengri is a mountain of the Tian Shan mountain range. It is on the China—Kyrgyzstan—Kazakhstan tripoint, east of lake Issyk-Kul, Issyk Kul. Its geologic elevation is , but its glacial icecap rises to . For this reason, in mounta ...

, where he lost several fingers and part of his foot. In 1938, he and others from his team were arrested by

NKVD The People's Commissariat for Internal Affairs (russian: Наро́дный комиссариа́т вну́тренних дел, Naródnyy komissariát vnútrennikh del, ), abbreviated NKVD ( ), was the interior ministry of the Soviet Union. ...

and were under investigation until 1940. He was accused of "open public propaganda" of western mountaineering techniques and "diminishing" domestic alpinists' achievements and being a "German spy". Abalakov is credited with such inventions as camming devices in the 1930s,

Abalakov thread 250px, Abseiling at an Abalakov thread The Abalakov thread, also known as a V-thread, A-thread, or 0-thread (zero thread), is an ice protection technique named after its innovator, Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov. The Abalakov thread is a commo ...

(or V-thread) gearless ice climbing anchor, and many other climbing equipment innovations.Расстрельное время
/ref>

Awards

Order of Lenin The Order of Lenin (russian: Орден Ленина, Orden Lenina, ), named after the leader of the Russian October Revolution, was established by the Central Executive Committee on April 6, 1930. The order was the highest civilian decoration b ...

(1957) *

Order of the Badge of Honour The Order of the Badge of Honour (russian: орден «Знак Почёта», orden "Znak Pochyota") was a civilian award of the Soviet Union. It was established on 25 November 1935, and was conferred on citizens of the USSR for outstanding ...

(1972) *

Honoured Master of Sports of the USSR Unified Sports Classification System of the USSR (russian: Единая Всесоюзная спортивная классификация) is a document which provided general Soviet physical education system requirements for both athletes an ...

(1943) * ''Honoured Trainer of the USSR'' (1961)

Bibliography

*
Расстрельное время

References

Honoured Masters of Sport of the USSR D. Mendeleev University of Chemical Technology of Russia alumni Soviet inventors 20th-century scientists Soviet explorers Soviet mountain climbers Russian explorers Russian mountain climbers Merited Coaches of the Soviet Union Spartak athletes Recipients of the Order of Lenin Burials at Kuntsevo Cemetery 1906 births 1986 deaths {{Russia-climbing-bio-stub

Awards

See also

Bibliography

References