Vertatscha Bodental
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Wertatscha (also ''Vertatscha'', sl, Vrtača) is a mountain, , in the
Karawanks The Karawanks or Karavankas or Karavanks ( sl, Karavanke; german: Karawanken, ) are a mountain range of the Southern Limestone Alps on the border between Slovenia Slovenia ( ; sl, Slovenija ), officially the Republic of Slovenia (Slovene: ...
on the border between
Austria Austria, , bar, Östareich officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in the southern part of Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine states, one of which is the capital, Vienna, the most populous ...
and
Slovenia Slovenia ( ; sl, Slovenija ), officially the Republic of Slovenia (Slovene: , abbr.: ''RS''), is a country in Central Europe. It is bordered by Italy to the west, Austria to the north, Hungary to the northeast, Croatia to the southeast, an ...
. In the old German Alpine dialect it was also called the ''Deutscher Berg'' ("German Mountain", Slovenian ''Nemška gora'') or ''Zinnenwand''. Other names are ''Meniška gora'' (''Mönchsberg'') and ''Rtača''.


Location and surrounding area

Wertatscha stands on the main chain of the Karawanks, which marks the border here between Austria (municipality of
Ferlach Ferlach ( sl, Borovlje) in the district of Klagenfurt-Land in Carinthia is the southernmost town in Austria. It is known for its centuries-old gunsmith tradition, part of the Austrian intangible cultural heritage since 2010. Geography It is situat ...
) and Slovenia (municipality of Žirovnica). To the north the mountain drops in steep, up to 600-metre-high, rock faces into the valley of
Bodental The Bodental ( sl, Boden, Carinthian Slovene: ''Póden'') is a remote mountain valley in the Karawanks in the south of Carinthia, Austria. Located at just over 1,000 metres above sea level, the valley extends southwesterly and can be re ...
above
Windisch Bleiberg Windisch may refer to: * Windisch (surname) (including a list of people with the name) * Windisch, Switzerland Windisch is a municipality in the district of Brugg in the canton of Aargau in Switzerland. Etymology Windisch is situated at the s ...
; the southern side is gentler. To the west the massif of Wertatscha is bounded by the Bleischitz Saddle (1,840 m); below which is the Klagenfurter Hut an important base for an ascent of the mountain. To the northeast the chain continues over the col of ''Pautzscharte'' (1,950 m) to the Pautz (Slovenian: ''Zelenjak'', 2,024 m) and the Selenitza. To the east Wertatscha drops down a rock face to the
cirque A (; from the Latin word ') is an amphitheatre-like valley formed by glacial erosion. Alternative names for this landform are corrie (from Scottish Gaelic , meaning a pot or cauldron) and (; ). A cirque may also be a similarly shaped landform ...
of ''Suho ruševje''. To the southeast lies the mountain hut of ''Dom na Zelenici'', another important starting point, at on the Selenitza Saddle.


Routes to the summit

From the Bielschitza Saddle a discernible path leads to the top in about 2 hours passing across the ''
schrofen Schrofen, a German mountaineering term, is steep terrain, strewn with rocks and rock outcrops, that is laborious to cross, but whose rock ledges (''schrofen'') offer many good steps and hand holds. It is usually rocky terrain on which grass has est ...
'' covered southwest slopes. The rather longer climb from the Selenitza Saddle over the southern mountainside is partially waymarked. A ravine from the northwest from the Suho-ruševje cirque,
climbing grade In rock climbing, mountaineering, and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a grade to a climbing route or boulder problem, intended to describe concisely the difficulty and danger of climbing it. Different types of climbing (such as spo ...
II, the southeast arête (also II) and the crumbly western arête from the Bielschitza Saddle (III) are much more difficult. The north face of Wertatscha has special significance for
alpinism Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, an ...
. In 1902 Eduard Pichl succeeded in making the
first ascent In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First mountain ascents are notable because they en ...
of this face which has a climbing grade of IV. Today there are many other
climbing route A climbing route is a path by which a climber reaches the top of a mountain, rock, or ice wall. Routes can vary dramatically in difficulty and grade; once committed to that ascent, it can sometimes be difficult to stop or return. Choice of rout ...
s, many at grades IV and V. Historically important was the first ascent of the northwest pinnacle by Kurt Maix in 1925. This was the first time that a grade V climb was achieved in the Karawanks. The east face offer several shorter climbing routes, which were opened in the late 20th century.


Incidents

On 21 September 2016 there were rockfalls in the Wertatscha Cirque. The dust cloud reached as far as the Klagenfurter Hut and hiking trails were closed as a precaution.Gefährliche Felsstürze: Sperrgebiet. kleinezeitung.at, Print, 24 September 2016, p.14.


References and footnotes


Literature

* {{citation, surname1=Hans M. Tuschar, editor-surname1=
Österreichischer Alpenverein The Austrian Alpine Club (german: Österreichischer Alpenverein) has about 573,000 members in 196 sections and is the largest mountaineering organisation in Austria. It is responsible for the upkeep of over 234 alpine huts in Austria and neighbour ...
, title=Alpine Club Guide Karawanken, publisher=
Bergverlag Rother Bergverlag Rother is a German publisher with its headquarters in Oberhaching, Upper Bavaria. Since 1950 the company, that formerly went under the name of ''Bergverlag Rudolf Rother'', has published the Alpine Club Guides in cooperation with the Ge ...
, location=München, pages=227–237, isbn=9783763312627, date=1990, language=German, url=https://books.google.com/books?id=HbI9UR4QybgC&q=alpenvereinsf%C3%BChrer+karawanken , via=Google Books, access-date=2009-10-24


External links


Vrtaca / Wertatscha
at Summitpost.org Mountains of the Alps Mountains of Carinthia (state) Mountains of Slovenia Karawanks Two-thousanders of Austria