United Drapery Stores
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United Drapery Stores, or UDS, was a British retail group that dominated the British
high street High Street is a common street name for the primary business street of a city, town, or village, especially in the United Kingdom and Commonwealth. It implies that it is the focal point for business, especially shopping. It is also a metonym fo ...
from the 1950s to the early 1980s.


Early history

In 1925,
Charterhouse Bank Charterhouse Bank was a British investment bank. History Charterhouse Bank was incorporated as an investment bank in December 1920. In 1925, Charterhouse Investment Trust was created, with its first sponsored issue being that of International Pul ...
set up Charterhouse Investment Trust. The trust started buying up
department store A department store is a retail establishment offering a wide range of consumer goods in different areas of the store, each area ("department") specializing in a product category. In modern major cities, the department store made a dramatic app ...
s: Hinds & Co, John Blundell, Shinners, S. Young & Son and Hawes Brothers, as well as retailers Walker & Penistans and Joseph Carton and Co, in the London suburbs under the stewardship of Charterhouse chairman
Sir Arthur Wheeler, 1st Baronet Sir Arthur Wheeler, 1st Baronet (18 September 1860 – 20 May 1943) was an England, English stockbroker and financier. Wheeler was born in Nottingham. He was educated at Nottingham High School and joined Simon, Meyer & Co, a lace exporter, as a c ...
. In 1927, the trust floated United Drapery Stores as the holding company for these businesses. In 1928, Henry Glave, a department store in New Oxford Street acquired the business under the management of
Sir Arthur Wheeler, 1st Baronet Sir Arthur Wheeler, 1st Baronet (18 September 1860 – 20 May 1943) was an England, English stockbroker and financier. Wheeler was born in Nottingham. He was educated at Nottingham High School and joined Simon, Meyer & Co, a lace exporter, as a c ...
, who had recently resigned from Charterhouse. By 1931, this had grown to 112 retail outlets, however Wheeler was declared bankrupt and Martin Price of ''Viney, Price and Goodyear'' were instructed to resolve the affairs of Henry Glave, with United Drapery Services sold to help pay Wheeler's debts. It had transpired that funds from United Drapery Stores had been moved to M.I.G. Trust, a company used in connection with Wheeler's investments. The business was purchased by Eagle Star Insurance Company. In 1932, it acquired the business of ''Stewart's Clothiers Ltd'', bringing its number of outlets to 232. Control of the ''John Anstee'' group of large drapery outlets and department stores, including
Arding & Hobbs Arding & Hobbs is a former department store and Grade II listed building at the junction of Lavender Hill and St John's Road, Battersea, in the London Borough of Wandsworth. Arding & Hobbs was established in 1876. The original building was des ...
in
Battersea Battersea is a large district in south London, part of the London Borough of Wandsworth, England. It is centred southwest of Charing Cross and extends along the south bank of the River Thames. It includes the Battersea Park. History Batter ...
and Owles & Beaumont, drapers in
Brompton Road Brompton Road is a street located in the southern part from Knightsbridge and in the eastern part from Brompton in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea and partly the City of Westminster in London. It starts from Knightsbridge Und ...
London, was secured in 1948. They purchased the
Richard Shops Richard Shops was a British high street retailer of women's fashion. History The business was created in 1936 by John Sofio, who modelled the business on the US company Learner Brothers. The company was bankrupt by 1941 and was purchased by ...
chain of ladieswear stores in 1949 from
Charles Clore Sir Charles Clore (26 December 1904 – 26 July 1979) was a British financier, retail and property magnate, and philanthropist. Life and career Clore was of Lithuanian Jewish background, the son of Israel Clore, a Whitechapel tailor who had emi ...
for £800,000. A further thirty-seven shops were added to the business in 1950 when it took over the Scottish clothes chain ''Claude Alexander'', while
Reading Reading is the process of taking in the sense or meaning of Letter (alphabet), letters, symbols, etc., especially by Visual perception, sight or Somatosensory system, touch. For educators and researchers, reading is a multifaceted process invo ...
department store Heelas was bought from
Charles Clore Sir Charles Clore (26 December 1904 – 26 July 1979) was a British financier, retail and property magnate, and philanthropist. Life and career Clore was of Lithuanian Jewish background, the son of Israel Clore, a Whitechapel tailor who had emi ...
, but sold three years later to the
John Lewis Partnership The John Lewis Partnership plc (JLP) is a British company which operates John Lewis & Partners department stores, Waitrose & Partners supermarkets, its banking and financial services, and other retail-related activities. The privately-held publ ...
. 1953 saw its biggest expansion through the acquisition of ''Prices Tailors Limited'', a
Leeds Leeds () is a city and the administrative centre of the City of Leeds district in West Yorkshire, England. It is built around the River Aire and is in the eastern foothills of the Pennines. It is also the third-largest settlement (by populati ...
multiple tailoring firm. Prices had been founded in 1907 by Henry Price, and traded under the
Fifty Shilling Tailors 50 (fifty) is the natural number following 49 and preceding 51. In mathematics Fifty is the smallest number that is the sum of two non-zero square numbers in two distinct ways: 50 = 12 + 72 = 52 + 52. It is also the sum of three squares, 50 = 32 ...
brand, with 404 stores and 12 factories across the country. After the takeover by UDS, the chain was gradually renamed John Collier.


Later acquisitions

In 1954 UDS acquired ''Alexandre Limited'', a Leeds-based multiple tailor with over 88 stores owned by Bernard and Jack Lyons and their families. Joseph Collier, the United Drapery Stores chairman, was struggling to turn around Prices Tailors and saw the Lyons as the men to turn it around. Bernard Lyons took control of the menswear operations and later became group chairman and chief executive, while Jack moved to London and took on a variety of group roles. A notable takeover by the UDS group came in 1958 when Joseph Collier negotiated a takeover of the
Allders Allders was an independent department store operating in the United Kingdom. The original store was established in 1862 in Croydon by Joshua Allder. In the second half of the 20th century, this parent store was developed into a chain of depart ...
department store in
Croydon Croydon is a large town in south London, England, south of Charing Cross. Part of the London Borough of Croydon, a local government district of Greater London. It is one of the largest commercial districts in Greater London, with an extensi ...
, followed by
Newcastle upon Tyne Newcastle upon Tyne ( RP: , ), or simply Newcastle, is a city and metropolitan borough in Tyne and Wear, England. The city is located on the River Tyne's northern bank and forms the largest part of the Tyneside built-up area. Newcastle is ...
department store ''John Farnon''. The Lyons would eventually start to rebrand United Drapery Stores department store businesses under the ''Allders'' name during the 1970s and 80s. In 1959 the business failed in a takeover of rival department store group
Harrods Harrods Limited is a department store located on Brompton Road in Knightsbridge, London, England. It is currently owned by the state of Qatar via its sovereign wealth fund, the Qatar Investment Authority. The Harrods brand also applies to other ...
, rivalling
Debenhams Debenhams plc was a British department store chain operating in the United Kingdom, Denmark and the Republic of Ireland. It was founded in 1778 as a single store in London and grew to 178 locations across those countries, also owning the Danish ...
and eventual winner
House of Fraser House of Fraser (also operating as Frasers) is a British department store group with 44 locations across the United Kingdom, which is now part of Frasers Group. It was established in Glasgow, Scotland in 1849 as Arthur and Fraser. By 1891, it w ...
, after Joseph Collier sold the shares owned by United Drapery Stores to Hugh Fraser. UDS continued the policy of expansion through acquisitions, purchasing Cardiff department store ''Mackross'' and ''Alexander Sloan'', an Irish clothing and household retailer in 1959, Portsmouth department store ''Landport Drapery Bazaar'' in 1960, credit drapers ''Lawsons'' and the ''Worldwide'' and ''Atlas Agency'' mail order businesses in 1965, with the twenty-seven shops of ''Brooks Brothers'' joining the forty-five stores of the ''Peter Pell'' clothing chain in 1967. It was reported that in 1966 alone UDS sold over 1,119,000 men's suits in Britain, making it one of the biggest clothing retailers in Britain at that time, rivalled only by the likes of Burtons and Hepworths.
Whiteleys Whiteleys was a shopping centre in Bayswater, London. It was built in the retail space of the former William Whiteley Limited department store, which opened in 1911 as one of London's first department stores, and was one of the main department ...
of Baywater, the struggling former giant department store, was purchased in 1961. In 1968, United Drapery Stores asked Joseph Kaplan from ''London and County Securities Group'' to manage the bank they inherited when purchasing ''Whiteleys'', which saw branches opened in other department stores. The fur and leather retailer ''Swears and Wells'' was added to the business in 1969. The mail order catalogue business of ''John Myers'' was purchased in 1971, however they were beaten by
Great Universal Stores GUS plc was an FTSE 100 retailing, manufacturing and financial conglomerate based in the United Kingdom. GUS was an abbreviation of Great Universal Stores, the company's name before 2001, while it was also known as the ''Glorious Gussies'' amon ...
to A & S Henry & Co group, owners of mail order catalogue John Noble in 1971. In 1972, UDS made an offer to purchase
Debenhams Debenhams plc was a British department store chain operating in the United Kingdom, Denmark and the Republic of Ireland. It was founded in 1778 as a single store in London and grew to 178 locations across those countries, also owning the Danish ...
, along with interest from
Sears plc Sears plc was a large British-based conglomerate. The company was listed on the London Stock Exchange and was once a constituent of the FTSE 100 Index. It was acquired by Philip Green in 1999. History The business was founded by John and Willi ...
and
Tesco Tesco plc () is a British multinational groceries and general merchandise retailer headquartered in Welwyn Garden City, England. In 2011 it was the third-largest retailer in the world measured by gross revenues and the ninth-largest in th ...
, but were fought off by chairman Sir Anthony Burney. Although its bid for Debenhams failed, the company purchased ''Telstar Colour Television'' and footwear retailer ''John Farmer'' in 1972. In 1973, the business officially changed its name from United Drapery Stores to UDS and acquired the shoe business of Timpson for £28.6 million. However the company was dragged into the collapse of ''London and County Securities'' bank in the same year. In 1975 the company's subsidiaries were:


Final days

However, for the UDS menswear business the main rival was the Burton Group, and there were several attempts by UDS to take over Burton's, most notably in 1967. This attempt was blocked by the British Government's
Monopolies and Mergers Commission The Competition Commission was a non-departmental public body responsible for investigating mergers, markets and other enquiries related to regulated industries under UK competition law, competition law in the United Kingdom. It was a competiti ...
as being against the
public interest The public interest is "the welfare or well-being of the general public" and society. Overview Economist Lok Sang Ho in his ''Public Policy and the Public Interest'' argues that the public interest must be assessed impartially and, therefore ...
.Monopolies & Mergers Commission report
At this time UDS had £24.5 million of sales, compared to Burton's £47 million, and 584 menswear stores including: * 51 Brook Brothers * 52 Peter Pell * 25 Claude Alexander However by 1980, the business was starting to struggle with the growing diversification of the business, large amounts of borrowing, high interest rates and inflation and falling sales. The Alexandre and Claude Alexander stores were rebranded under the John Collier chain, with a loss of 100 stores and 500 jobs. The credit operations were sold to
Citibank Citibank, N. A. (N. A. stands for " National Association") is the primary U.S. banking subsidiary of financial services multinational Citigroup. Citibank was founded in 1812 as the City Bank of New York, and later became First National City ...
, ''John Myers'' was sold to
Great Universal Stores GUS plc was an FTSE 100 retailing, manufacturing and financial conglomerate based in the United Kingdom. GUS was an abbreviation of Great Universal Stores, the company's name before 2001, while it was also known as the ''Glorious Gussies'' amon ...
while plans were made to sell John Collier to Burtons, although a management buyout was attempted but rebuffed. In 1983 the group was acquired after a takeover battle by
Hanson Trust Hanson UK, formerly Hanson Trust plc, is a British-based building materials company, headquartered in Maidenhead. The company has been a subsidiary of the German company HeidelbergCement since August 2007, and was formerly listed on the London S ...
, beating
Gerald Ronson Gerald Maurice Ronson, CBE (born 27 May 1939) is a British business tycoon and philanthropist. He became known in the UK as one of the 'Guinness Four' for his part in the Guinness share-trading fraud of the 1980s as a result of which he was conv ...
's
Heron International Heron International is a British property development company. Founded in 1957 by the Ronson family, it came to prominence in the 1980s as the UK's second largest private company. After over extending itself in the 1990s, it was revived by Gerald R ...
with a bid of £264 million and was largely broken up. John Collier was sold to the management in a £47.5 million buyout in September 1983, (before being sold onto the Burton Group in 1985).
Richard Shops Richard Shops was a British high street retailer of women's fashion. History The business was created in 1936 by John Sofio, who modelled the business on the US company Learner Brothers. The company was bankrupt by 1941 and was purchased by ...
was sold to Sir
Terence Conran Sir Terence Orby Conran (4 October 1931 – 12 September 2020) was an English designer, restaurateur, retailer and writer. He founded the Design Museum in Shad Thames, London in 1989 The British designer Thomas Heatherwick said that Conran " ...
's Habitat Mothercare Group plc after a failed management buyout. Along with the sales of William Timpson and Orbit, the total return of £152 million was raised.


References

{{Authority control Allders Defunct department stores of the United Kingdom Defunct retail companies of the United Kingdom Retail companies established in 1927 Retail companies disestablished in 1983