![St Andrews gowns](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e9/St_Andrews_gowns.jpg)
Undergraduate gowns are a notable feature of
academic dress for students at the
ancient universities
The ancient universities are British and Irish medieval universities and early modern universities founded before the year 1600. Four of these are located in Scotland, two in England, and one in Ireland. The ancient universities in Britain and I ...
in
Scotland
Scotland (, ) is a Countries of the United Kingdom, country that is part of the United Kingdom. Covering the northern third of the island of Great Britain, mainland Scotland has a Anglo-Scottish border, border with England to the southeast ...
.
The most famous form of Scottish undergraduate dress is the
red
Red is the color at the long wavelength end of the visible spectrum of light, next to orange and opposite violet. It has a dominant wavelength of approximately 625–740 nanometres. It is a primary color in the RGB color model and a secondar ...
or
scarlet gown. The gown is typically made of a thick woollen or wool-like material and is differentiated slightly according to the university at which it is worn. These gowns are worn by students of the University of St Andrews, Glasgow, Aberdeen, Edinburgh and Dundee. The University of Strathclyde did not adopt the red gown, and instead students use the black ''supertunica'', adorned with saltire blue buttons and cords.
History
It is likely that pre-Reformation undergraduates would have worn a black ''supertunica'' in common with students at all European universities of the time. By the latter part of
James VI
James is a common English language surname and given name:
*James (name), the typically masculine first name James
* James (surname), various people with the last name James
James or James City may also refer to:
People
* King James (disambiguat ...
's reign, this had formalised into scarlet. Traditionally, the red colour was symbolic of a lower status, and was particularly visible. The post-Reformation gown evolved as a uniform for students, its visibility preventing them from engaging in illicit activities in their
university town
A college town or university town is a community (often a separate town or city, but in some cases a town/city neighborhood or a district) that is dominated by its university population. The university may be large, or there may be several sma ...
s.
In his work, ''
A tour thro' the Whole Island of Great Britain
''A Tour Thro' the Whole Island of Great Britain'' is an account of his travels by English author Daniel Defoe, first published in three volumes between 1724 and 1727. Other than ''Robinson Crusoe'', ''Tour'' was Defoe's most popular and financial ...
'',
Daniel Defoe notes the presence of the gowns at the Universities of Glasgow and St Andrews in the early 18th century, but also their absence at Edinburgh.
In reference to the University of Glasgow:
In reference to the University of St Andrews:
The ''"toga rubra"'' name, mainly popular at Aberdeen, was also used more widely, and declined with educational reform. A significant example of this is the actions of
John Anderson, a professor at the University of Glasgow and founder of what went on to become the
University of Strathclyde
The University of Strathclyde ( gd, Oilthigh Shrath Chluaidh) is a public research university located in Glasgow, Scotland. Founded in 1796 as the Andersonian Institute, it is Glasgow's second-oldest university, having received its royal chart ...
. During his tenure he opened up lectures specifically to cater to the working population of Glasgow, and in order to make their attendance more straightforward certain formalities, such as the red gown, were dispensed with - a move which was looked upon unfavourably by university authorities. As such, these became known as his "Anti-toga classes".
University of Glasgow
The University of Glasgow's undergraduate gown is as follows: "Scarlet cloth, with full sleeves half the length of the gown. A difference indicating the Faculty may be worn in the form of a narrow band of silk on the breast of each side of the gown of the colour of the hood-lining proper to the lowest degree in the Faculty".
University of Aberdeen
At the
University of Aberdeen
, mottoeng = The fear of the Lord is the beginning of wisdom
, established =
, type = Public research universityAncient university
, endowment = £58.4 million (2021)
, budget ...
, and particularly within the predecessor
King's College, the gown (or ''toga rubra'') has had varied fortunes over the years. During one of the slumps in use in 1885, it was noted that less than one-quarter of students wore it and was largely restricted to arts students at King's College. Regulations existed compelling gown-wearing amongst students, although were rarely enforced. In 1888, a
plebiscite was organised at King's by the
students' representative council, which continued to support compulsion by 258 votes to 32, and was recognised by the University's Senate. This was to little avail, with the gown still not becoming universal as it had been previously, and remaining subject to fashion. In the 1850s,
Sir George Reid painted an image of an Aberdeen student in the gown, entitled ''"Salve Toga Rubra".''
The ''toga'' was criticised as being unsuited to the climate of Aberdeen. It was considered proper amongst students to wear an old and worn gown. A tradition of 'gown-tearing' by older students to new 'bajans' (first years) therefore developed. Matriculation at Aberdeen traditionally occurred on the first Sunday of term; out of enforced respect for
Sabbath, students would wait until the following Monday to engage in a 'tearing day'.
[, pp. 149-150] Despite the cost of gowns, attempts to outlaw this practice were difficult to enforce, particularly as all students of the era carried a penknife in order to mend
quill
A quill is a writing tool made from a moulted flight feather (preferably a primary wing-feather) of a large bird. Quills were used for writing with ink before the invention of the dip pen, the metal- nibbed pen, the fountain pen, and, eventual ...
s.
Opposition to the gown was also evident, during a 1922 attempt to build 'Varsity Spirit' and restore to wide use the 'traditional and honoured dress' of students,
an anti-gown group was formed to protest at its restoration to prominence. In 1924, their views were aired in the university newspaper, stating:
This element of separation often caused gowned students to be jeered by the local children of the city.
Use
The undergraduate gown has lost popularity at different times in the different universities. The requirements of town residence made it impractical, however the more isolated locations of Aberdeen and St Andrews (and by extension, Dundee) ensured a longer heritage.
At present, the gowns are most commonly a feature associated with the University of St Andrews where they are very commonly worn by students to formal events, pier walks and exams. They are only very rarely found in everyday usage at the other institutions, although are still occasionally seen worn by debaters, societies, student representatives, choirs and attendees at formal events and chapel services. It is perhaps most commonly seen at academic ceremonies, particularly in relation to the installation of a new
Rector
Rector (Latin for the member of a vessel's crew who steers) may refer to:
Style or title
*Rector (ecclesiastical), a cleric who functions as an administrative leader in some Christian denominations
*Rector (academia), a senior official in an edu ...
.
The undergraduate style influences several gowns of office, particularly for members of
students' representative councils and Rectors.
Appearance
Colour
The colour of the red undergraduate gown is rarely defined precisely, however the
University of Dundee
, mottoeng = "My soul doth magnify the Lord"
, established = 1967 – gained independent university status by Royal Charter1897 – Constituent college of the University of St Andrews1881 – University College
, ...
and the
University of St Andrews
(Aien aristeuein)
, motto_lang = grc
, mottoeng = Ever to ExcelorEver to be the Best
, established =
, type = Public research university
Ancient university
, endowment ...
set the correct colour as "
Union Jack
The Union Jack, or Union Flag, is the ''de facto'' national flag of the United Kingdom. Although no law has been passed making the Union Flag the official national flag of the United Kingdom, it has effectively become such through precedent. ...
red" (BCC210).
Differencing
There are several differences between the gowns at the various universities, including:
* Aberdeen - The gown is shorter than others and is often referred to as a ''"toga rubra"'' or simply a ''toga''. The gown was captured in the painting ''Salve Toga Rubra'' ( la, Hail the Red Gown) by Sir George Reid, viewable here; it is an amalgamation of the gowns of
King's College, Aberdeen
King's College in Old Aberdeen, Scotland, the full title of which is The University and King's College of Aberdeen (''Collegium Regium Abredonense''), is a formerly independent university founded in 1495 and now an integral part of the Universi ...
and
Marischal College
Marischal College ( ) is a large granite building on Broad Street in the centre of Aberdeen in north-east Scotland, and since 2011 has acted as the headquarters of Aberdeen City Council. However, the building was constructed for and is on long- ...
, the ''Aberdeen University Review'' stating that the velvet collar is associated with Marischal and the arms associated with the King's gown.
* Dundee - The student gown is described in the University Handbook as '"A gown of nap material in Union Jack red (BCC210) with cape sleeves and with a yoke and collar and abbreviated square patch facings in serge or flannel of Stewart blue."'
* Edinburgh - The gown is entirely scarlet.
* Glasgow - Permits a ''"narrow band of silk on the breast of each side of the gown of the colour of the hood-lining proper to the lowest degree in the Faculty"'' to adorn the gown.
* St Andrews - the gown has a
maroon yoke and collar, usually made of velvet to contrast with the woollen fabric of the main gown.
:The various colleges of St Andrews wear differing gowns; the distinction between United College and Queen's College existed even before the latter became independent as the University of Dundee. Today, the students of
St Mary's College (the Faculty of Divinity) wear a simple black gown with a violet/purple St Andrews cross on the left breast. Post-graduates in St Mary's College wear the graduate gown with the violet/purple saltire cross in the left facing. The members of the non-statutory
St Leonard's College are not entitled to wear the red gown as the college has no undergraduates amongst its number. They wear the graduate gown of their earlier degree (if that institution has academic dress), or the black gown with burgundy facings of St Leonard's College which was introduced in recent years for such post-graduates.
* Strathclyde - Strathclyders instead use the pre-Reformation black ''supertunica''. The ''supertunica'' may be worn casually or formally, but it is never compulsory for lectures, as a testament to John Anderson's objections. The gown is similar to that MA gown used at Oxford university, except the cords and buttons on the sleeve and around the yoke are in Saltire Blue. This is a tradition which is unique to Strathclyde.
Specialist gowns
Gowns of office
Many universities also have gowns of office for their student representatives. These are often variants inspired by the red gown, often differenced by facings.
The
Glasgow University Students' Representative Council executive uses wholly purple gowns. Full listings of gowns worn by the
University of St Andrews Students' Association
The University of St Andrews Students' Association is the organisation which represents the student body of the University of St Andrews. It was founded in 1885 and comprises the students' representative council and the Student Activities Forum ( ...
are available at the
Academic dress of the University of St Andrews entry. The
University of Strathclyde Students' Association executive use the black ''supertunica'' with the university logo embroidered on the front at each side. The President also enjoys gold embroidery on the sleeves.
Other undergraduate gowns
*
St Mary's College at the University of St Andrews, that is to say the New College of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, (in effect, the faculty of divinity) uses plain black gowns for its undergraduates. The gown is described as being made of black stuff, knee length with short open sleeves and with a violet cross of St Andrew on the left facing. The colour of the cross corresponds to the material used for hoods in the Faculty of Divinity. Black lined with violet (MTheol) and Violet with the cowl and apron edged with white fur (BD). The reason for this gown being black, despite being an undergraduate gown is that in times gone by all members of St Mary's College were graduates and so despite the fact that this is no longer the case, the black gown has been preserved. As noted above post-graduates in St Mary's College wear the graduate gown with the violet/purple saltire cross in the left facing.
Notes
Footnotes
References
Academic dress of the University of DundeeAcademic dress of the University of Glasgow
{{Portal bar, Scotland
17th-century fashion
18th-century fashion
19th-century fashion
20th-century fashion
Academic dress
Ancient universities of Scotland