Uli Biaho ( ur, اولی بیاہو) is a mountain near

Trango Towers __NOTOC__ The Trango Towers ( ur, ) are a family of rock towers situated in Gilgit-Baltistan, in the north of Pakistan. The Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world, and every year a number of expedi ...

and

Baltoro Glacier __NOTOC__ The Baltoro Glacier ( zh, 巴爾托洛冰川, ), at in length, is one of the longest glaciers outside the polar regions.The Fedchenko Glacier in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan is 77 km long, the Siachen Glacier which lies so ...

in the

Gilgit–Baltistan Gilgit-Baltistan (; ), formerly known as the Northern Areas, is a region administered by Pakistan as an administrative territory, and constituting the northern portion of the larger Kashmir region which has been the subject of a dispute be ...

area of

Pakistan Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 24 ...

. It consists of two main peaks, Uli Biaho Tower (listed by Roskelley as 19,957 feet, and by Kopold as ); and Uli Biaho Peak (Kopold: 6417 m), which as of 2006 was unclimbed. Uli Biaho Tower was climbed alpine-style via the direct East Face by

John Roskelley John Roskelley (born December 1, 1948) is an American mountain climber and author from Spokane, Washington. He made first ascents and notable ascents of 7,000-meter (22,966 ft.) and 8,000-meter peaks (26,247 ft.) in Nepal, India, and Pakistan. ...

et al. All four US climbers reached the summit on July 3, 1979. Roskelley included a chapter on Uli Biaho in his 1993 book ''Stories Off the Wall''.

Notable ascents

* 1979 - Uli Biaho Tower (19,957 feet) - ''East Face'' - VII F8 A4 (34 pitches). June 24 - July 5, 1979 -

, Kim Schmitz,

Ron Kauk Ron Kauk (born 23 September 1957) is an American rock climber. Kauk is associated with Camp 4 in Yosemite Valley, where he lived for decades, now a resident of El Portal, California. In 1975, he made the first free ascent of the east face of Wa ...

and Bill Forrest. * 1988 - Uli Biaho Tower - Pilone Sud (6b, A3, 800 м) 17, June 19–21, 1988 - Maurizio Giordani, Roberto Manfrini, Maurizio Venzo, Kurt Walde. * 2006 - Uli Biaho Tower (20,058 feet or 6109 m) - ''Drastissima'' VI/6 ABO (Northwest Face). June 23–25, 2006 - Gabo Cmarik and Jozef 'Dodo' Kopold (Slovakia). * 2013 - Uli Biaho Tower - ''West Face'' 6a/6b, 1 aid pitch (18 pitches), the rest free climbing on sight in one day and half, July 21, 2013 - Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach. * 2013 - Uli Biaho Tower - ''East Face'' - Russian Roulette (1,900m 6c+ A2) - August 8–14, 2013 - Denis Veretenin and Evgenii Bashkirtcev

References

Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan Six-thousanders of the Karakoram {{NorthernAreas-geo-stub

Notable ascents

See also

References