Tsumugi (cloth)
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is a traditional slub-woven
silk Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known silk is obtained from the ...
fabric from Japan. It is a tabby weave material woven from yarn produced using
silk noil Noil refers to the short fibers that are removed during the combing process in spinning. These fibers are often then used for other purposes. Fibers are chosen for their length and evenness in specific spinning techniques, such as worsted. The s ...
, short- staple silk fibre (as opposed to material produced using longer, filament silk fibres). The short silk fibres are degummed and, traditionally, the yarns are hand-joined to form a continuous length before weaving, a technique also used for cheaper
bast fibre Bast fibre (also called phloem fibre or skin fibre) is plant fibre collected from the phloem (the "inner bark", sometimes called "skin") or bast surrounding the stem of certain dicotyledonous plants. It supports the conductive cells of the phl ...
s. Yarns are joined by twisting the ends to be joined in the same direction, then twisting both ends, bundled together, in the other direction, to make a two-ply yarn at the overlap. It might alternately be loosely handspun, with few twists per unit length. Because of this structure, is rough-surfaced, soft and drapey, softening further with age. Between 1910 to 1925 (late Taishō to Shōwa era), it became common to spin as well as weave
silk noil Noil refers to the short fibers that are removed during the combing process in spinning. These fibers are often then used for other purposes. Fibers are chosen for their length and evenness in specific spinning techniques, such as worsted. The s ...
by machine (see for the technological developments that made this possible). This machine-spun cloth largely displaced as one of the cheapest silk fabrics. Prices dropped drastically, and silk materials and clothing was suddenly within the budget of most Japanese; stores also began to sell off-the-peg, ready-to-wear kimono at about this time. Originally, was homemade from domestic or wild-gathered silkworm cocoons that had been broken by hatching or were irregularly formed. Unlike the long-fiber silk, such cloth was permitted to peasants.{{cite book, author=Ruth M. Shaver, title=Kabuki Costume, date=1966, publisher=Tuttle Publishing Traditionally a peasant cloth, handmade {{transliteration, ja, tsumugi is very labour-intensive to produce, and has become expensive over time, valued as a luxury folk-craft. File:Awase-kimono.jpg, A lined ({{transliteration, ja, awase) {{transliteration, ja, tsumugi kimono. File:MET 2001 428 48 det mon on tsumugi.jpg, {{transliteration, ja, Tsumugi with a dyed {{transliteration, ja, mon File:MET 2001 428 47 mon.jpg, {{transliteration, ja, Tsumugi with a dyed {{transliteration, ja, mon, showing slight unevenness in thread diameter. File:Coin purse made of Ushikubitsumugi.jpg, Coin purse. The thicker portions of yarn visible in the weave are called slubs. File:Porch made of Ushikubitsumugi.jpg, Another purse with woven stripes


Recognized regional varieties

{{transliteration, ja, Tsumugi was originally a homespun textile, produced using silk fibre deemed unusable for the production of finer fabrics, and many regional variations existed. Some of these regional variations still exist today and are recognized as {{transliteration, ja,
meibutsu is a term most often applied to regional specialties (also known as ). can also be applied to specialized areas of interest, such as , where it refers to famous tea utensils, or Japanese swords, where it refers to specific named famous blades. ...
, famous products of their place of origin. {, class="wikitable" , - ! Name !
Kanji are the logographic Chinese characters taken from the Chinese family of scripts, Chinese script and used in the writing of Japanese language, Japanese. They were made a major part of the Japanese writing system during the time of Old Japanese ...
! Traditional sites ! Notes ! Example image , - , {{transliteration, ja, Amiito tsumugi , ,
Shiga Prefecture is a prefecture of Japan located in the Kansai region of Honshu. Shiga Prefecture has a population of 1,412,916 (1 October 2015) and has a geographic area of . Shiga Prefecture borders Fukui Prefecture to the north, Gifu Prefecture to the north ...
, Recycled
weft Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric. The lengthwise or longitudinal warp yarns are held stationary in tension on a frame or loom while the transverse weft (sometimes woof) is dra ...
threads respun and rewoven to make {{transliteration, ja,
obi #REDIRECT Obi {{redirect category shell, {{R from other capitalisation{{R from ambiguous title ...
. , , - , {{transliteration, ja, Gujo tsumugi , {{lang, ja, 郡上島紬 ,
Hachiman, Gifu was a town located in Gujō District, Gifu Prefecture, Japan Japan ( ja, 日本, or , and formally , ''Nihonkoku'') is an island country in East Asia. It is situated in the northwest Pacific Ocean, and is bordered on the west by t ...
, , , - , {{transliteration, ja, Honba oshima tsumugi , {{lang, ja, 本場大島紬 ,
Amami, Kagoshima is a city located on the island of Amami Ōshima, in Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan. Amami is the most populated municipality on Amami Ōshima. The most urban part of the municipality as well as the island's main port is a small city also know ...
, , , - , {{transliteration, ja, Iida tsumugi , {{lang, ja, 飯田島紬 ,
Iida, Nagano is a city in Nagano Prefecture, Japan. , Iida had an estimated population of 101,536, and a population density of 154 persons per km2. The total area of the city is . Iida is an , a municipality designated by the Japanese government to be a mo ...
, , , - , {{transliteration, ja,
Kumejima-tsumugi is the Japanese craft of silk cloth practised in Kumejima, Okinawa Prefecture. is the oldest type of in Japan, out of the approximately two hundred forms of , and is the oldest fabric. It is recognised as one of the Important Intangible Cult ...
, {{lang, ja, 久米島紬 ,
Kumejima, Okinawa is a town located in Shimajiri District, Okinawa Prefecture, Japan. The town consists of the islands of Kume, Ōjima, Ōhajima, Torishima, and Iōtorishima. Among the islands, only Kumejima and Ōjima are populated. Kumejima is located app ...
, , , - , {{transliteration, ja, Murayama-oshima tsumugi , {{lang, ja, 村山大島紬 ,
Musashimurayama, Tokyo is a city located in the western side of Tokyo, Japan. , the city had an estimated population of 72,021 in 32,234 households, and a population density of 4,700 people per km². The total area of the city is . Geography Musashimurayama is located ...
, , , - , {{transliteration, ja, Oitama tsumugi , {{lang, ja, 置賜紬 , {{transliteration, ja, Oitama regions of production: * Hakutaka, Yamagata *
Nagai, Yamagata Sakura by the Mogami River is a city located in Yamagata Prefecture, Japan. , the city had an estimated population of 26,466 in 9940 households, and a population density of 120 people per km². The total area of the city is . Geography Nagai is ...
*
Yonezawa, Yamagata Yonezawa City Hall is a city in Yamagata Prefecture, Japan. , the city had an estimated population of 81,707 in 33,278 households, and a population density of 150 persons per km2. The total area of the city is . Yonezawa is most famous for i ...
, {{transliteration, ja, Oitama tsumugi is a collective term for six different varieties of {{transliteration, ja, tsumugi made in the Yamagata region, including: * {{transliteration, ja, Benibana tsumugi * {{transliteration, ja, Heiyōgasuri * {{transliteration, ja, Itajime kogasuri * {{transliteration, ja, Kusakizome tsumugi * {{transliteration, ja, Shirataka itajime kogasuri * {{transliteration, ja, Yokosogasuri , , - , {{transliteration, ja, Ojiya tsumugi , {{lang, ja, 小千谷島紬 ,
Ojiya, Niigata is a city located in Niigata Prefecture, Japan. , the city had an estimated population of 34,704 in 12,758 households, and a population density of 224 persons per km². The total area of the city was . Geography Ojiya is located in an inland re ...
, , , - , {{transliteration, ja, Shinshu tsumugi , {{lang, ja, 信州紬 , Nagano Prefecture , , , - , {{transliteration, ja, Shiozawa tsumugi , {{lang, ja, 塩沢島紬 ,
Shiozawa, Niigata was a town located in Minamiuonuma District, Niigata Prefecture, Japan. As of 2003, the town had an estimated population of 20,142 and a density of 105.94 persons per km². The total area was 190.12 km². On October 1, 2005, Shiozawa was ...
, , , - , {{transliteration, ja, Tosa men tsumugi , ,
Kagami, Kōchi (Kami) was a town located in Kami District, Kōchi Prefecture, Japan. As of 2003, the town had an estimated population of 6,365 and a density of 108.08 persons per km2. The total area was 58.89 km2. On March 1, 2006, Kagami, along with the town ...
, , , - , {{transliteration, ja, Ueda tsumugi , {{lang, ja, 上田島紬 ,
Ueda, Nagano is a city located in Nagano Prefecture, Japan. , the city had an estimated population of 157,480 in 67,783 households, and a population density of 290 persons per km2. The total area of the city is , which makes it the fifth largest city in Nag ...
, {{transliteration, ja, Ueda tsumugi is always striped and is sometimes referred to as {{transliteration, ja, ueda jima ({{transliteration, ja, jima meaning "stripes"). , , - , {{transliteration, ja, Ushikubi tsumugi , {{lang, ja, 牛首紬 ,
Hakusan, Ishikawa is a city located in Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan. , the city had an estimated population of 113,375 in 43246 households, and a population density of 290 persons per km2. The total area of the city was . It is the second-most populous city in Ish ...
, , , - , {{transliteration, ja,
Yūki-tsumugi is a variety of silk cloth produced in Japan, chiefly in in Prefecture. It is designated as one of the Important Intangible Cultural Properties of Japan, and has also been inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural H ...
, {{lang, ja, 結城紬 ,
Yūki, Ibaraki 270px, Yuki Information and Communication Center is a city located in Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan. , the city had an estimated population of 50,282 in 19,353 households and a population density of 765 persons per km2. The percentage of the popula ...
, ,


See also

* Dupioni * Pongee *
Shantung Shandong ( , ; ; alternately romanized as Shantung) is a coastal province of the People's Republic of China and is part of the East China region. Shandong has played a major role in Chinese history since the beginning of Chinese civilizati ...


References

{{Reflist Japanese weaving techniques Textiles Sericulture