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Toulouse ( , ; oc, Tolosa ) is the
prefecture A prefecture (from the Latin ''Praefectura'') is an administrative jurisdiction traditionally governed by an appointed prefect. This can be a regional or local government subdivision in various countries, or a subdivision in certain international ...
of the French department of Haute-Garonne and of the larger region of
Occitania Occitania ( oc, Occitània , , or ) is the historical region in Western Europe, Western and Southern Europe where the Occitan language, Occitan language was historically spoken and where it is sometimes still used as a second language. This ...
. The city is on the banks of the River Garonne, from the Mediterranean Sea, from the Atlantic Ocean and from Paris. It is the fourth-largest city in France after Paris, Marseille and Lyon, with 493,465 inhabitants within its municipal boundaries (2019 census); its
metropolitan area A metropolitan area or metro is a region that consists of a densely populated urban agglomeration and its surrounding territories sharing industries, commercial areas, transport network, infrastructures and housing. A metro area usually com ...
has a population of 1,454,158 inhabitants (2019 census). Toulouse is the central city of one of the 20 French Métropoles, with one of the three strongest
demographic growth Population growth is the increase in the number of people in a population or dispersed group. Actual global human population growth amounts to around 83 million annually, or 1.1% per year. The World population, global population has grown from 1 b ...
(2013-2019). Toulouse is the centre of the European aerospace industry, with the headquarters of Airbus, the SPOT satellite system, ATR and the Aerospace Valley. It hosts the CNES's Toulouse Space Centre (CST) which is the largest national space centre in Europe, but also, on the military side, the newly created NATO space centre of excellence and the French Space Command and Space Academy. Thales Alenia Space, ATR,
SAFRAN Safran S.A. is a French multinational company that designs, develops and manufactures aircraft engines, rocket engines as well as various aerospace and defense-related equipment or their components. It was formed by a merger between SNECMA and ...
, Liebherr-Aerospace and
Airbus Defence and Space Airbus Defence and Space is the division of Airbus SE responsible for the development and manufacturing of the corporation's defence and space products, while also providing related services. The division was formed in January 2014 during the ...
also have a significant presence in Toulouse. The University of Toulouse is one of the oldest in Europe (founded in 1229). Toulouse is also the home of prestigious higher education schools, notably in the field of aerospace engineering. Together with the university, they have turned Toulouse into the fourth-largest student city in France, with a university population of nearly 140,000 students. The air route between Toulouse–Blagnac and the Parisian airports is the busiest in France, transporting 3.2 million passengers in 2019. According to the rankings of ''
L'Express ''L'Express'' () is a French weekly news magazine headquartered in Paris. The weekly stands at the political centre in the French media landscape, and has a lifestyle supplement, ''L'Express Styles'', and a job supplement, ''Réussir''. History ...
'' and ''Challenges'', Toulouse is the most dynamic French city. Founded by the Romans, the city was the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom in the 5th century and the capital of the province of Languedoc in the Late Middle Ages and early modern period (provinces were abolished during the French Revolution), making it the unofficial capital of the cultural region of
Occitania Occitania ( oc, Occitània , , or ) is the historical region in Western Europe, Western and Southern Europe where the Occitan language, Occitan language was historically spoken and where it is sometimes still used as a second language. This ...
(Southern France). It is now the capital of the region of
Occitania Occitania ( oc, Occitània , , or ) is the historical region in Western Europe, Western and Southern Europe where the Occitan language, Occitan language was historically spoken and where it is sometimes still used as a second language. This ...
, the second largest region in Metropolitan France. Toulouse counts three UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the
Canal du Midi The Canal du Midi (; ) is a long canal in Southern France (french: le Midi). Originally named the ''Canal royal en Languedoc'' (Royal Canal in Languedoc) and renamed by French revolutionaries to ''Canal du Midi'' in 1789, the canal is considere ...
(designated in 1996 and shared with other cities), and the Basilica of St. Sernin, the largest remaining Romanesque building in Europe, designated in 1998 along with the former hospital Hôtel-Dieu Saint-Jacques because of their significance to the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route. The city's unique architecture made of pinkish terracotta bricks has earned Toulouse the nickname ' ("The Pink city").


Geography

Toulouse is in the south of France, north of the department of Haute-Garonne, on the axis of communication between the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. The city is about 100 km from the Pyrenees and the borders with Andorra and Spain.


Hydrography

The city is traversed by the Canal de Brienne, the
Canal du Midi The Canal du Midi (; ) is a long canal in Southern France (french: le Midi). Originally named the ''Canal royal en Languedoc'' (Royal Canal in Languedoc) and renamed by French revolutionaries to ''Canal du Midi'' in 1789, the canal is considere ...
and the rivers Garonne, Touch and Hers-Mort.


Climate

Toulouse has a temperate
humid subtropical climate A humid subtropical climate is a zone of climate characterized by hot and humid summers, and cool to mild winters. These climates normally lie on the southeast side of all continents (except Antarctica), generally between latitudes 25° and 40° ...
(''Cfa'' in the Köppen climate classification). Too much precipitation during the summer months prevents the city from being classified as a Mediterranean climate zone.


History


Early history

The Garonne Valley was a central point for trade between the Pyrenees, the Mediterranean and the Atlantic since at least the Iron Age. The historical name of the city, ''Tolosa'' (Τολῶσσα in Greek, and of its inhabitants, the ''Tolosates'', first recorded in the 2nd century BC), is of unknown meaning or origin, possibly from Aquitanian or Iberian, but it has also been connected to the name of the Gaulish Volcae Tectosages.


Toulouse refounded by the Romans on the banks of the Garonne

Tolosa enters the historical period in the 2nd century BC, when it became a Roman military outpost. After the conquest of Gaul, it was developed as a Roman city in
Gallia Narbonensis Gallia Narbonensis (Latin for "Gaul of Narbonne", from its chief settlement) was a Roman province located in what is now Languedoc and Provence, in Southern France. It was also known as Provincia Nostra ("Our Province"), because it was the ...
. Under the reign of Emperor Augustus and thanks to the Pax Romana, the Romans moved the city a few kilometres from the hills where it was an oppidum to the banks of the Garonne, which were more suitable for trade.Collective work directed by Jean-Marc Olivier and Rémy Pech: "''Histoire de Toulouse et de la métropole''". Éditions Privat, 2019. In the second half of the 1st century, the emperor Domitian distinguished Toulouse by placing it under the patronage of the goddess Pallas Athena, so that the Latin poets
Martial Marcus Valerius Martialis (known in English as Martial ; March, between 38 and 41 AD – between 102 and 104 AD) was a Roman poet from Hispania (modern Spain) best known for his twelve books of ''Epigrams'', published in Rome between AD 86 and ...
, Ausonius and Sidonius Apollinaris called the city ''Palladia Tolosa'' (Palladian Toulouse), a term that was still used in the Renaissance and even today when the city is presented as propitious to the arts and letters. Around the year 250, Toulouse was marked by the martyrdom of Saturnin, the first bishop of Toulouse. This episode illustrates the difficult beginnings of Christianity in Roman Gaul.


Capital of the Visigothic kingdom

In the 5th century, Toulouse fell to the Visigothic kingdom and became one of its major cities, even serving as its
capital Capital may refer to: Common uses * Capital city, a municipality of primary status ** List of national capital cities * Capital letter, an upper-case letter Economics and social sciences * Capital (economics), the durable produced goods used f ...
, before it fell to the Franks under
Clovis Clovis may refer to: People * Clovis (given name), the early medieval (Frankish) form of the name Louis ** Clovis I (c. 466 – 511), the first king of the Franks to unite all the Frankish tribes under one ruler ** Clovis II (c. 634 – c. 657), ...
in 507 ( Battle of Vouillé). From that time, Toulouse was the capital of Aquitaine within the Frankish realm.


Under Frankish rule

In 721, Duke Odo of Aquitaine defeated an invading Umayyad
Muslim Muslims ( ar, المسلمون, , ) are people who adhere to Islam, a monotheistic religion belonging to the Abrahamic tradition. They consider the Quran, the foundational religious text of Islam, to be the verbatim word of the God of Abrah ...
army at the Battle of Toulouse. Many Arab chroniclers consider that Odo's victory was the real stop to Muslim expansion into Christian Europe, incursions of the following years being simple raids without real will of conquest since they did not besiege the cities (including the one that ended with Charles Martel's victory at the Battle of Tours, also called the Battle of Poitiers). The Frankish conquest of
Septimania Septimania (french: Septimanie ; oc, Septimània ) is a historical region in modern-day Southern France. It referred to the western part of the Roman province of Gallia Narbonensis that passed to the control of the Visigoths in 462, when Septima ...
followed in the 750s, and a quasi-independent
County of Toulouse The County of Toulouse ( oc, Comtat de Tolosa) was a territory in southern France consisting of the city of Toulouse and its environs, ruled by the Count of Toulouse from the late 9th century until the late 13th century. The territory is the ...
emerged within the Carolingian sub-kingdom of Aquitaine by the late 8th century. The Battle of Toulouse of 844, pitting Charles the Bald against Pepin II of Aquitaine, was key in the Carolingian Civil War.


County of Toulouse

Charlemagne had created the county of Toulouse in 778 to guard the border of Muslim Spain, but the disintegration of the kingdom of Aquitaine and the weakness of royal power in the following centuries led to the de facto independence of the county of Toulouse and many provinces. In the 11th and 12th centuries, southern France was still steeped in Latin culture. Unlike the north of France, justice followed written Roman law and the nobles were highly educated. This was the time of the troubadours who wrote their poetry in Occitan (called "Provençal" at the time), then one of the most sophisticated languages in Europe. Like the other great lords of the Midi, the counts of Toulouse maintained and favoured these poets, this is how Count Raymond V employed for some time the famous
Bernard de Ventadour Bernart de Ventadorn (also Bernard de Ventadour or Bernat del Ventadorn; – ) was a French poet-composer troubadour of the classical age of troubadour poetry. Generally regarded as the most important troubadour in both poetry and music, his 1 ...
, expert in singing
courtly love Courtly love ( oc, fin'amor ; french: amour courtois ) was a medieval European literary conception of love that emphasized nobility and chivalry. Medieval literature is filled with examples of knights setting out on adventures and performing vari ...
.''Pyrénées Toulouse Gers'', Le Guide Vert Michelin, 2016. In 1096, Raymond IV, Count of Toulouse, left with his army at the call of the
Pope Urban II Pope Urban II ( la, Urbanus II;  – 29 July 1099), otherwise known as Odo of Châtillon or Otho de Lagery, was the head of the Catholic Church and ruler of the Papal States from 12 March 1088 to his death. He is best known for convening th ...
to join the First Crusade, of which he was one of the main leaders. This exodus of its warriors and nobles, reinforced by the creation of the faraway County of Tripoli by Raymond IV at the beginning of the 12th century, weakened the city militarily as well as the ascendancy that its counts had over it. The Duke William IX of Aquitaine challenged the possession of the city on the grounds that it should have been inherited by his wife Philippa (daughter of the previous count of Toulouse, whereas Raymond IV was only his brother). More than 50 years later his granddaughter Eleanor of Aquitaine still claimed the inheritance in vain. In the 12th century the city left its Roman limits and a new district developed around the church of Saint-Sernin: the ''Bourg''. The church of Saint-Sernin was famous and revered for its many relics, and the chapter of its canons, which had possessions as far away as Spain, was powerful enough to free itself from the control of the bishop of Toulouse. This dissent had important local political repercussions, making the ''Bourg'' in practice a separate district from the city. In 1152, the notables of Toulouse took advantage of a weakening of the county power to obtain for their city a great autonomy, they created a municipal body of consuls, called capitouls in Toulouse, to lead the city. The ''Bourg'', which had only a quarter of the inhabitants of Toulouse, obtained as many capitouls as the rest of the city.


The fight against Catharism and its various aspects

At the beginning of the thirteenth century the County of Toulouse was caught up in another crusade that would last twenty years (1209-1229), of which it was the target this time. The reason for this was the development of
Catharism Catharism (; from the grc, καθαροί, katharoi, "the pure ones") was a Christian dualist or Gnostic movement between the 12th and 14th centuries which thrived in Southern Europe, particularly in northern Italy and southern France. Follow ...
in the south of France, which the Pope Innocent III wanted to eradicate by all possible means. After an initial victory of the crusaders led by Simon de Montfort who defeated the combined forces of Count
Raymond VI of Toulouse Raymond VI ( oc, Ramon; October 27, 1156 – August 2, 1222) was Count of Toulouse and Marquis of Provence from 1194 to 1222. He was also Count of Melgueil (as Raymond IV) from 1173 to 1190. Early life Raymond was born at Saint-Gilles, Gard, ...
and King
Peter II of Aragon Peter II the Catholic (; ) (July 1178 – 12 September 1213) was the King of Aragon and Count of Barcelona from 1196 to 1213. Background Peter was born in Huesca, the son of Alfonso II of Aragon and Sancha of Castile. In 1205 he acknowled ...
, the following years saw the fate of the county of Toulouse swing alternately in favour of one party or the other. Finally, a late intervention by King Louis VIII of France in 1226 tipped the balance in favour of the crusaders, resulting in the submission of Count
Raymond VII Raymond VII (July 1197 – 27 September 1249) was Count of Toulouse, Duke of Narbonne and Marquis of Provence from 1222 until his death. Family and marriages Raymond was born at the Château de Beaucaire, the son of Raymond VI of Toulouse ...
to the French Crown and the end of the independence of the County of Toulouse. But beyond the military crusade, this struggle took on several important aspects for the city of Toulouse: * The Dominican Order was founded in Toulouse by
Saint Dominic Saint Dominic ( es, Santo Domingo; 8 August 1170 – 6 August 1221), also known as Dominic de Guzmán (), was a Castilian Catholic priest, mystic, the founder of the Dominican Order and is the patron saint of astronomers and natural scientis ...
in 1215. Spanish priest Dominic de Guzmán wanted to convert the Cathars to Catholicism peacefully, by preaching and by living a poor and exemplary life. After years of criss-crossing the
Lauraguais The Lauragais () is an area of the south-west of France that is south-east of Toulouse. The Lauragais, a former county in the south-west of France, takes its name from the town of Laurac and has a large area. It covers both sides of the Canal du ...
countryside between Carcassonne and Toulouse, he changed his method and decided to preach in town. In 1215 he settled in Toulouse and founded a mendicant order which, within a few decades, would cover Europe with hundreds of convents: The Order of Preachers, also known as the Dominicans. * Under the impulse of the bishop of Toulouse,
Foulques Fulk is an old European personal name, probably deriving from the Germanic ''folk'' ("people" or "chieftain"). It is cognate with the French Foulques, the German Volk, the Italian Fulco and the Swedish Folke, along with other variants such as Fulk ...
, an original and austere architectural style was born in Toulouse, designed to break with the display of luxury of the Catholic church which drove the faithful towards the Cathars: the
Southern French Gothic Southern French Gothic (french: gothique méridional) is a specific and militant style of Gothic architecture developed in the South of France, especially in the Toulouse region. It arose in the early 13th century following the victory of the Cat ...
. * In the Treaty of Paris of 1229, Toulouse formally submitted to the crown of France. The county's sole heiress Joan was engaged to Alphonse, Count of Poitiers, a younger brother of
Louis IX of France Louis IX (25 April 1214 – 25 August 1270), commonly known as Saint Louis or Louis the Saint, was King of France from 1226 to 1270, and the most illustrious of the Direct Capetians. He was crowned in Reims at the age of 12, following the ...
. The marriage became legal in 1241, but it remained childless and so after Joan's death, the county fell to the
Crown of France France was ruled by monarchs from the establishment of the Kingdom of West Francia in 843 until the end of the Second French Empire in 1870, with several interruptions. Classical French historiography usually regards Clovis I () as the firs ...
by inheritance. * Another consequence of the Treaty of Paris was the creation of the University of Toulouse, established on the Parisian model, strongly sponsored by the pope and intended as a means to dissolve the heretic movement. * Also in 1229, the
Council of Toulouse The Council of Toulouse (1229) was a Council of the Roman Catholic Church called by Folquet de Marselha the Bishop of Toulouse in 1229 AD. The council forbade laity to read vernacular translations of the Bible. The Council of Toulouse was a local ...
was held, which laid the foundations for the long period of Inquisition that was to eradicate Catharism in the region after the military victory of the Crusade.


Kingdom of France

In 1271, Joan of Toulouse and her husband Alphonse of Poitiers died without heirs. Toulouse, which since the treaty of 1229 had been subordinate to the kingdom of France, no longer had a count and was annexed to the royal domain. The installation of numerous royal officers and the development of trade and crafts, which favoured the social ascension of merchants, renewed the city's elites. In 1298, King Philip the Fair greatly facilitated the possibility of ennobling the capitouls, whose council, renewed every year, was increasingly made up of rich merchants. The first half of the 14th century was a prosperous period, despite the dismemberment in 1317 of the very large bishopric of Toulouse (which lost two thirds of its area and a large part of its income, a loss only partially compensated by its elevation to the rank of archbishopric), and the episode of the Shepherds' Crusade which brought a pogrom against Toulouse's Jewish population in 1320. In 1335, Toulouse had between 35,000 and 40,000 inhabitants. In 1323 the Consistori del Gay Saber was created in Toulouse to preserve the lyric art of the troubadours by organizing a poetry contest; and Toulouse became the centre of Occitan literary culture for the following centuries. The Consistori del Gay Saber is considered to be the oldest literary society in Europe, at the origin of one of the most sophisticated treatise on grammar and rhetoric of the Middle Ages, and in 1694 it was transformed into the Royal Academy of the Floral Games (''Académie des Jeux Floraux''), still active today, by king Louis XIV. The 14th century also saw a significant increase in the influence of the University of Toulouse, particularly following the move of the papacy from Rome to Avignon. Many law graduates from the University of Toulouse had brilliant careers in the Avignon curia, several became cardinals and three became popes: John XXII, Innocent VI and Urban V. These powerful prelates financed the establishment of colleges in the university towns of southern France, not only Toulouse but also Montpellier, Cahors and Avignon.Cyril Eugene Smith: «University of Toulouse in the middle ages, its origins and growth to 1500 AD.» Ed. The Marquette university press, 1958. But the
Black Death The Black Death (also known as the Pestilence, the Great Mortality or the Plague) was a bubonic plague pandemic occurring in Western Eurasia and North Africa from 1346 to 1353. It is the most fatal pandemic recorded in human history, causi ...
in 1348, then the
Hundred Years' War The Hundred Years' War (; 1337–1453) was a series of armed conflicts between the kingdoms of Kingdom of England, England and Kingdom of France, France during the Late Middle Ages. It originated from disputed claims to the French Crown, ...
caused a major crisis that lasted until the following century. Despite strong immigration, the population lost more than 10,000 inhabitants in 70 years. By 1405 Toulouse had only 19,000 people. In these hardships, the city was the key stronghold of the French defence in the south of France during the worst years of the Hundred Years' War, when the English troops from Aquitaine had taken Montauban and only Toulouse remained as an obstacle to their conquest of southern France. This military threat to the city and especially to the surrounding countryside was not conducive to its development, despite the strengthening of ties with the royalty that it entailed. In 1369 pope Urban V attributed to the Dominican church of the Jacobins of Toulouse the bones of the famous Dominican theologian
Saint Thomas Aquinas Thomas Aquinas, OP (; it, Tommaso d'Aquino, lit=Thomas of Aquino; 1225 – 7 March 1274) was an Italian Dominican friar and priest who was an influential philosopher, theologian and jurist in the tradition of scholasticism; he is known wit ...
, perhaps to honor the city that had been the cradle of the Dominican order at the beginning of the previous century. The political and economic situation improved by the middle of the 15th century. In 1443 King Charles VII established the second parliament of France after that of Paris. Reinforcing its place as an administrative and judicial center, the city grew richer, participating in the trade of Bordeaux wine with England, as well as cereals and textiles. A major source of income was the production and export of
pastel A pastel () is an art medium in a variety of forms including a stick, a square a pebble or a pan of color; though other forms are possible; they consist of powdered pigment and a binder. The pigments used in pastels are similar to those use ...
, a blue dye made from woad. Toulouse suffered several fires, but it was in 1463 that the Great Fire of Toulouse broke out, ravaging the city for fifteen days. After this dramatic event, King Louis XIII exempted the city from taxes for 100 years. The capitouls issued municipal decrees favouring the use of brick in buildings, rather than excessively flammable wood or cob. In the 16th century, and until 1562, the economy of Toulouse experienced a golden age: its Parliament made it the judicial capital of a large part of southern France, and the city became the first European centre for the trade in woad, the only blue dye then known in Europe which was very much in demand in the textile industry at the time. Its humanist milieu developed thanks to its university and parliament, which trained and attracted intellectual elites. The wealth generated by this culturally and economically dynamic environment is the source of the superb Renaissance mansions in Toulouse. In 1550 the population of the city made it the second or third largest city in France. It was estimated to have 50,000 inhabitants, a figure it would not regain until the 18th century.Collective work directed by Pascal Julien, «catalogue de l'exposition Toulouse Renaissance» ("Toulouse Renaissance exhibition catalogue"), Somogy éditions d'art, 2018. In 1562 the French Wars of Religion began and Toulouse became an ultra-Catholic stronghold in a predominantly Protestant region, the era of economic prosperity came to an end. The governor of Languedoc, Henri II de Montmorency, who had rebelled, was executed in 1632 in the Capitole in the presence of King Louis XIII and
Cardinal Richelieu Armand Jean du Plessis, Duke of Richelieu (; 9 September 1585 – 4 December 1642), known as Cardinal Richelieu, was a French clergyman and statesman. He was also known as ''l'Éminence rouge'', or "the Red Eminence", a term derived from the ...
. In 1666 Pierre-Paul Riquet started the construction of the
Canal du Midi The Canal du Midi (; ) is a long canal in Southern France (french: le Midi). Originally named the ''Canal royal en Languedoc'' (Royal Canal in Languedoc) and renamed by French revolutionaries to ''Canal du Midi'' in 1789, the canal is considere ...
which links Toulouse to the Mediterranean Sea, and is considered one of the greatest construction works of the 17th century. Completed in 1681, the canal stimulated the economy of Toulouse by promoting the export of cereals and the import of olive oil, wine and other goods from the Mediterranean regions. In the 18th century, Toulouse was a provincial capital that prided itself on its royal academies (the only city in France, along with Paris, to have three royal academies), but sometimes seemed far removed from the debates of ideas that agitated the
Enlightenment Enlightenment or enlighten may refer to: Age of Enlightenment * Age of Enlightenment, period in Western intellectual history from the late 17th to late 18th century, centered in France but also encompassing (alphabetically by country or culture): ...
. A famous example illustrates this backwardness of Toulouse mentalities of the time: in 1762 its powerful parliament sentenced
Jean Calas Jean Calas (1698 – 10 March 1762) was a merchant living in Toulouse, France, who was tried, tortured and executed for the murder of his son, despite his protestations of innocence. Calas was a Protestant in an officially Catholic society. Dou ...
to death. The philosopher Voltaire then accused the Parliament of Toulouse of religious intolerance (Calas was a Protestant), gave the affair a European repercussion and succeeded in having the judgment of the parliament quashed by the King's Council, which did much damage to the reputation of the parliament. It was on this occasion that Voltaire published one of his major philosophical works: his famous Treatise on Tolerance. With the French Revolution of 1789 and the reform or suppression of all royal institutions, Toulouse lost much of its power and influence: until then the capital of the vast province of Languedoc, with a parliament ruling over an even larger territory, the city then found itself simply at the head of the single small department of Haute-Garonne.


19th century

On 10 April 1814, four days after
Napoleon Napoleon Bonaparte ; it, Napoleone Bonaparte, ; co, Napulione Buonaparte. (born Napoleone Buonaparte; 15 August 1769 – 5 May 1821), later known by his regnal name Napoleon I, was a French military commander and political leader who ...
's surrender of the
French Empire French Empire (french: Empire Français, link=no) may refer to: * First French Empire, ruled by Napoleon I from 1804 to 1814 and in 1815 and by Napoleon II in 1815, the French state from 1804 to 1814 and in 1815 * Second French Empire, led by Nap ...
to the nations of the Sixth Coalition (a fact that the two armies involved were not yet aware of), the Battle of Toulouse pitted the Hispanic-British troops of Field Marshal Wellington against the French troops of Napoleonic Marshal Soult, who, although they managed to resist, were forced to withdraw. Toulouse was thus the scene of the last Franco-British battle on French territory. Unlike most large French cities, there was no real industrial revolution in 19th century Toulouse. The most important industries were the gunpowder factory, to meet military needs, and the tobacco factory. In 1856 the railway arrived in Toulouse and the city was modernised: the ramparts were replaced by large boulevards, and major avenues such as the ''rue d'Alsace-Lorraine'' and the ''rue de Metz'' opened up the historic centre. In 1875 a flood of the Garonne devastated more than 1,000 houses and killed 200 people. It also destroyed all the bridges in Toulouse, except the Pont-Neuf.


20th and 21st centuries

World War I brought to Toulouse (geographically sheltered from enemy attacks) chemical industries as well as aviation workshops ( Latécoère, Dewoitine), which launched the city's aeronautical construction tradition and gave birth after the war to the famous '' Aéropostale'', a pioneering airmail company based in Toulouse and whose epics were popularised by the novels of writers such as Joseph Kessel and
Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Antoine Marie Jean-Baptiste Roger, comte de Saint-Exupéry, simply known as Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (, , ; 29 June 1900 – 31 July 1944), was a French writer, poet, aristocrat, journalist and pioneering aviator. He became a laureate of s ...
(himself an ''Aéropostale'' pilot).Jean-Marie Pailler, Annick Thomas and Jack Thomas: ''Petite Histoire de Toulouse'', Éditions Cairn, 2017. In the 1920s and 1930s the rise of the Toulouse population was increased by the arrival of Italians and Spaniards fleeing the fascist regimes of their country. Then, in the early 1960s, French repatriates from Algeria swelled the city's population. In 1963, Toulouse was chosen to become one of the country's eight “balancing Metropolis”, regaining a position among the country's major cities that it had always had, but lost in the 19th century. The French state then encouraged the city's specialisation in aeronautics and space activities, sectors that had experienced strong growth in recent decades, fueling economic and population growth. On 21 September 2001, an
explosion An explosion is a rapid expansion in volume associated with an extreme outward release of energy, usually with the generation of high temperatures and release of high-pressure gases. Supersonic explosions created by high explosives are known ...
occurred at the AZF fertiliser factory, causing 31 deaths, about 30 seriously wounded and 2,500 light casualties. The blast measured 3.4 on the Richter scale and the explosion was heard away. In 2016 a territorial reform made Toulouse the regional
prefecture A prefecture (from the Latin ''Praefectura'') is an administrative jurisdiction traditionally governed by an appointed prefect. This can be a regional or local government subdivision in various countries, or a subdivision in certain international ...
of Occitanie, the second largest region in metropolitan France, giving it a role commensurate with its past as a provincial capital among the most important in France.


Population

The population of the city proper (French: '' commune'') was 493,465 at the January 2019 census, with 1,454,158 inhabitants in the
metropolitan area A metropolitan area or metro is a region that consists of a densely populated urban agglomeration and its surrounding territories sharing industries, commercial areas, transport network, infrastructures and housing. A metro area usually com ...
, up from 1,252,358 at the January 2008 census. Thus, the metropolitan area registered a population growth rate of +1.37% per year between 2008 and 2019, the third-highest growth rate of any French metropolitan area larger than 500,000 inhabitants in France, after
Montpellier Montpellier (, , ; oc, Montpelhièr ) is a city in southern France near the Mediterranean Sea. One of the largest urban centres in the region of Occitania (administrative region), Occitania, Montpellier is the prefecture of the Departments of ...
and Bordeaux, although it was slightly lower than the growth rate registered between the 1990 and 2008 censuses. Toulouse is the fourth most populated city in France, after Paris, Marseille and Lyon, and the fifth most populated metropolitan area after Paris, Lyon, Marseille, and Lille. Fueled by booming aerospace and high-tech industries, the Toulouse metropolitan area's population grew by 55.5% between the 1990 and 2019 censuses (within its 2019 borders), which means +1.54% per year on average during those 29 years, compared with a growth of 15.0% for metropolitan France between 1990 and 2019, i.e. +0.49% per year. This was the second-highest population growth of any French metropolitan area larger than 500,000 inhabitants (only the
Montpellier Montpellier (, , ; oc, Montpelhièr ) is a city in southern France near the Mediterranean Sea. One of the largest urban centres in the region of Occitania (administrative region), Occitania, Montpellier is the prefecture of the Departments of ...
metropolitan area grew more than Toulouse between 1990 and 2019). The Toulouse metropolitan area reached 1,454,158 inhabitants in January 2019, and stood as the 5th most populated metropolitan area in France, behind the metropolitan areas of Paris, Lyon, Marseille, and Lille, but ahead of the metropolitan area of Bordeaux, which the Toulouse metropolitan area passed in population in the 1990s. A local Jewish group estimates there are about 2,500 Jewish families in Toulouse. A Muslim association has estimated there are some 35,000 Muslims in town.


Government and politics


Toulouse Métropole

The Community of Agglomeration of Greater Toulouse (''Communauté d'agglomération du Grand Toulouse'') was created in 2001 to better coordinate transport, infrastructure and economic policies between the city of Toulouse and its immediate independent suburbs. It succeeds a previous district which had been created in 1992 with fewer powers than the current council. It combines the city of Toulouse and 24 independent ''communes'', covering an area of , totalling a population of 583,229 inhabitants (as of 1999 census), 67% of whom live in the city of Toulouse proper. As of February 2004 estimate, the total population of the Community of Agglomeration of Greater Toulouse was 651,209 inhabitants, 65.5% of whom live in the city of Toulouse. Due to local political feuds, the Community of Agglomeration only hosts 61% of the population of the metropolitan area, the other independent suburbs having refused to join in. Since 2009, the Community of agglomeration has become an urban community (in French: communauté urbaine). This has become a métropole in 2015, spanning 37 communes.


Local politics

One of the major political figures in Toulouse was Dominique Baudis, the mayor of Toulouse between 1983 and 2001, member of the centrist UDF. First known as a journalist known for his coverage of the war in Lebanon, 36-year-old Dominique Baudis succeeded his father
Pierre Baudis Pierre is a masculine given name. It is a French form of the name Peter. Pierre originally meant "rock" or "stone" in French (derived from the Greek word πέτρος (''petros'') meaning "stone, rock", via Latin "petra"). It is a translation ...
in 1983 as mayor of Toulouse. (Pierre Baudis was mayor from 1971 to 1983.) Baudis tried to strengthen the international role of Toulouse (such as its Airbus operations), as well as revive the cultural heritage of the city. The Occitan cross, flag of Languedoc and symbol of the counts of Toulouse, was chosen as the new flag of the city, instead of the traditional coat of arms of Toulouse (which included the fleur de lis of the French monarchy). Many cultural institutions were created, in order to attract foreign expatriates and emphasise the city's past. For example, monuments dating from the time of the counts of Toulouse were restored, the city's symphonic concert hall (''Halle aux Grains'') was refurbished, a city theater was built, a Museum of Modern Art was founded, the
Bemberg Foundation Bemberg is a surname. Notable people with the surname include: *Carlos Miguens Bemberg (born 1949), Argentine businessman *Herman Bemberg (1859–1931), French musical composer *María Luisa Bemberg (1922–1995), pioneer feminist, film writer, di ...
(European paintings and bronzes from the Renaissance to the 20th century) was established, a huge pop music concert venue (''Zénith'', the largest in France outside Paris) was built, the space museum and educational park '' Cité de l'Espace'' was founded, etc. To deal with growth, major housing and transportation projects were launched. Line A of the underground was opened in 1993, and line B opened in 2007. The creation of a system of underground car parking structures in Toulouse city centre was sharply criticised by the Green Party. In 2000, Dominique Baudis was at the zenith of his popularity, with approval rates of 85%. He announced that he would not run for a fourth (6-year) term in 2001. He explained that with 3 terms he was already the longest-serving mayor of Toulouse since the French Revolution; he felt that change would be good for the city, and that the number of terms should be limited. He endorsed Philippe Douste-Blazy, then UDF mayor of Lourdes as his successor. Baudis has since been appointed president of the CSA ('' Conseil supérieur de l'audiovisuel'') in Paris, the French equivalent of the American FCC. Philippe Douste-Blazy narrowly won in the 2001 elections, which saw the left making its best showing in decades. Douste-Blazy had to deal with a reinvigorated political opposition, as well as with the dramatic explosion of the AZF plant in late 2001. In March 2004, he entered the national government, and left Toulouse in the hands of his second-in-command Jean-Luc Moudenc, elected mayor by the municipal council. In March 2008, Moudenc was defeated by the Socialist Party's candidate Pierre Cohen. At the next elections in 2014 Moudenc defeated Cohen in a rematch to re-take the job with more than 52% of the votes, and he was re-elected with almost the same score in 2020.


Mayors


Sights and architecture

Classified "City of Art and History", Toulouse has a very rich architectural heritage ranging from large Romanesque and Gothic churches to neo-classical facades such as that of the Capitole, to the prestigious mansions of the Renaissance. This ancient heritage is mainly enclosed within the 220 hectares of the city's inner boulevard (one of the largest protected urban areas in France). Almost all the buildings of the historical centre were made with the traditional building material of the region: the "foraine" brick that has earned the city the nickname of ''Ville rose'' (Pink city). Medieval heir to the Roman brick, the "foraine" brick is characterised by its large dimensions, its flat appearance and its colour ranging from orange/pink to red. White stone is also present in smaller quantities. As there were no stone quarries near Toulouse, it was transported from the Pyrenees via the Garonne river and was for a long time rare and therefore expensive, considered in Toulouse as a luxury material. However, it is enough to give Toulouse's architecture one of its characteristics: red/white polychromy.


Romanesque architecture (11th-12th c.)

The Romanesque architecture of Toulouse is largely dominated by the presence of the Basilica of Saint-Sernin, one of the most important churches of its time in Europe, and fortunate enough to keep its Romanesque character virtually intact.


Basilica of Saint-Sernin

Basilica of Saint-Sernin, part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France, Way of Saint James UNESCO World Heritage Site, was also in itself a major place of pilgrimage. It is one of the two largest surviving Romanesque architecture, Romanesque churches in Europe.Speyer cathedral is slightly larger, but unlike Saint-Sernin this church has been largely destroyed and rebuilt in its history, so the question of which is the largest remaining Romanesque church depends on the criteria chosen as to Romanesque character. With more than two hundred relics (including six apostles), many of which were donated by Charlemagne to the shrine that preceded the present church, Saint-Sernin is the church with the most relics after Saint Peter of Rome.Jean-Claude Jaffé, "''Toulouse, le patrimoine révélé''". Éditions Privat, 2013. Conceived from the outset as a gigantic reliquary, the church was mainly built at the end of the 11th century and at the beginning of the 12th century to welcome the crowds of pilgrims, its double-sided aisles and the ambulatory surrounding the apse make it the archetype of the great pilgrimage church, where pilgrims could make the circuit around the church and were able to stop for meditation and prayer at the apsidal chapels of the transept and the radiating chapels of the choir. The church is also particularly noteworthy for the quality of its Romanesque sculptures, including numerous capitals and the historiated tympanum of the Miègeville gate, one of the first of its kind.Quitterie and Daniel Cazes, "See you in Toulouse". Éditions Sud-Ouest, 2018. File:Basilique_Saint-Sernin_de_Toulouse_-_exposition_ouest-1-.jpg, Basilica of Saint-Sernin. File:Toulouse Saint Sernin (2012.08) 08.jpg, The east side is the oldest part. File:Porte_Miégeville_-_Basilique_Saint-Sernin.jpg, The Miègeville gate. File:Tympan_de_la_porte_Miegeville.jpg, Romanesque tympanum (late 11th c. or early 12th c.). File:Console_aux_personnages_symmétiques.JPG, Romanesque sculptures. File:Nef de la Basilique Saint-Sernin. - FRAC31555 18Fi019.jpg, The central nave of the church. File:31_-_Toulouse_-_Basilique_Saint-Sernin_-_Fresque_de_la_Résurrection_PM31001049.jpg, Romanesque paintings. File:31 - Toulouse - Autel principal de la Basilique Saint-Sernin - PalissyPM31000779.jpg, Bernard Gilduin's altar table, consecrated by
Pope Urban II Pope Urban II ( la, Urbanus II;  – 29 July 1099), otherwise known as Odo of Châtillon or Otho de Lagery, was the head of the Catholic Church and ruler of the Papal States from 12 March 1088 to his death. He is best known for convening th ...
in 1096. File:31_-_Toulouse_-_Basilique_Saint-Sernin_-_Christ_en_majesté_-_Bernard_Gilduin_-_PM31001052.jpg, Christ in Majesty by Bernard Gilduin, late 11th c.


Gothic architecture (13th c.-early 16th c.)


Southern French Gothic: a militant religious architecture

At the beginning of the 13th century, the Catholic clergy of the South of France, seeing a growing number of the faithful turning to the
Catharism Catharism (; from the grc, καθαροί, katharoi, "the pure ones") was a Christian dualist or Gnostic movement between the 12th and 14th centuries which thrived in Southern Europe, particularly in northern Italy and southern France. Follow ...
which advocated a more pious austerity, showed the will to correct the defects of the Catholic Church which indulged in luxury. Under the impulse of the bishop of Toulouse,
Foulques Fulk is an old European personal name, probably deriving from the Germanic ''folk'' ("people" or "chieftain"). It is cognate with the French Foulques, the German Volk, the Italian Fulco and the Swedish Folke, along with other variants such as Fulk ...
, an austere and militant architectural style was born with the reconstruction of the Cathedral of Toulouse: the Southern French Gothic. Conceived according to an ideal of poverty and humility to bring the faithful together in a single, vast nave to facilitate preaching, this architectural style then developed during the 13th century in the grand Mendicant orders, mendicant convents of the city, before spreading in the 14th century to a large number of churches and cathedrals in the region.Caroline de Barrau, "''Le gothique toulousain, un art militant''", in magazine VMF of march 2010 (''revue des Vieilles Maisons Françaises''), in French. Several churches or convents in Toulouse belong to this architectural trend, but two of them are particularly symbolic and remarkable: * Toulouse Cathedral, Cathedral of Saint-Étienne (Saint Stephen) is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Toulouse. Its construction, which was mainly done at the beginning and then at the end of the 13th century, reflects the history of this decisive century which saw the city lose its independence to become a French city. The single nave is the first example of Southern French Gothic, at 19 metres wide it probably was at its completion the widest in Western Europe (1210-1220). The higher choir that adjoins it was built in the Gothic style of northern France shortly after the city became part of the Crown of France in 1271. * Church of the Jacobins, Convent of the Jacobins (13th century / early 14th century) was the Dominican convent of Toulouse and is considered to be, together with the Albi Cathedral, the pinnacle of Southern French Gothic architecture. Like all Southern French Gothic churches it has a deliberately austere exterior, but on the inside its alignment of cylindrical columns form one of the tallest colonnades ever erected in Gothic architecture (28 metres high). The masterpiece of this church is the column that closes the choir (1275-1292), its palm tree shape was a hundred years ahead of the flamboyant gothic fan vaults. Because he thought that the bones of Saint Thomas Aquinas deserved «the most beautiful and most splendid surroundings», in 1368 Pope Urban V made the church of the Jacobins the burial place of the famous Dominican friar, one of the most notable philosophers and theologians of the Middle Ages. File:Façade_de_la_cathédrale_Saint-Étienne_de_Toulouse.jpg, Toulouse cathedral. File:Nef_de_la_cathédrale_Saint-Etienne_de_Toulouse.jpg, Old nave of the Toulouse Cathedral. File:Altar - Cathedral Saint-Etienne in Toulouse - 2012-05-08.jpg, Altar in the choir of the Toulouse Cathedral (gothic of northern France). File:Couvent_des_Jacobins_de_Toulouse.jpg, Church of the Jacobins, exterior (13th c.). File:Toulouse-Jacobins-voûte.jpg, The vault of the Jacobins and its famous palm tree. File:Cloître_et_clocher_des_Jacobins.jpg, Cloister (14th c.) and bell tower (1298) of the Jacobins. File:Augustins - Grand cloître et clocher des Augustins de Toulouse.jpg, Augustinian Convent (14th c.). File:31 - Eglise Notre-Dame du Taur - Facade.jpg, Wall belfry of Notre-Dame du Taur (14th c.). Toulouse_-_Jacobins_et_ND_du_Taur.jpg, View of two iconic monuments of Southern French Gothic: Notre-Dame du Taur (left) and the Church of the Jacobins.


Gothic civil architecture

Toulouse has preserved about thirty Gothic stair towers (plus a dozen Renaissance or later towers), the remains of private mansions (called ''hôtel particulier, hôtels particuliers'') from the Middle Ages and the early 16th century. Often hidden in courtyards, some of these towers are high enough to exceed their function of serving the floors and display the ambition of their owners. At a time when most of the houses in Toulouse were built in wood or Cob (material), cob, the brick construction of these towers and ''hôtels'' also testifies to their quality. File:Hotel_de_Boysson_Toulouse.jpg, Boysson tower, 1478. File:Delfau-sommet.jpg, Delfau tower, 1497. File:Lancefoc et Serta.jpg, Lancefoc tower (late 15th c.) and Serta tower (1529). File:Olmieres-tour.jpg, Olmières tower, 1503. File:Bernuy-sommet-2.jpg, Bernuy tower, 1504. File:Bruni-tour.jpg, Bruni tower, 1510. File:Tour de Berenguier Bonnefoy 1513.JPG, Beringuier Bonnefoy tower, 1513. File:2_rue_Saint-Rome_-_Tour_Serta.jpg, Serta tower, 1529. File:Toulouse_-_Maison_Pierre_Delfau_-_Porche_PA00094614.jpg, Door of the Hotel Delfau. File:Toulouse-portail-bernuy.jpg, Door of the Hotel de Bernuy. File:Maison-rg-fenetre.jpg, Romanesque-Gothic house window, with small carved decoration (c. 1300). File:Toulouse-fenetre-hôtel-boysson.jpg, Hôtel Boysson window (late 15th c.). File:Capitole Toulouse - Le donjon.jpg, Former tower of the city archives, 1525-1530 (except for the 19th century roof).


Renaissance architecture (16th c.-early 17th c.)

In the 16th century, Toulouse experienced a golden age coinciding with the Renaissance in France. The Isatis tinctoria, woad trade (''pastel'') brought merchants of international stature to the city, and the Parliament of Toulouse made the city the judicial capital of a large part of the south of France. These wealthy elites had private mansions built, remarkable for their architecture inspired by architectural treatises such as those of Sebastiano Serlio, Serlio, Leon Battista Alberti, Alberti or Vitruvius, but also by the royal castles of the Châteaux of the Loire Valley, Loire Valley and the History of Île-de-France, Île-de-France. Renowned for the quality of their architecture, the private mansions of the Toulouse Renaissance that have survived to the present day were built over more than a century (around 1515–1620) by reputed architects such as Louis Privat, Nicolas Bachelier, Dominique Bachelier or Pierre Souffron. The most famous of these ''hôtels'' are those of Hôtel d'Assézat, Assézat, Hôtel de Bernuy, Bernuy, Hôtel du Vieux-Raisin, Vieux-Raisin or Hôtel de Bagis, Clary... File:Hôtel d'Assézat - Main courtyard - 2014-09-01.jpg, Classical facades of hôtel d'Assézat. File:Assezat-15(1).jpg, Hôtel d'Assézat. File:Cour de Bernuy.jpg, Courtyard of hôtel de Bernuy. File:Toulouse_-_Bernuy_-_voute.jpg, Low vault of hôtel de Bernuy. File:Hôtel du Vieux-Raisin.jpg, Hôtel du Vieux-Raisin. File:Vx-raisin_(2).jpg, Renaissance windows at hôtel du Vieux-Raisin. File:Hôtel_d'Arnaud_de_Brucelles_-_La_tour.jpg, Tower of hôtel de Brucelles. File:Clary_(1).jpg, The hôtel de Clary and its richly sculpted decoration. File:Toulouse-vx-raisin-porte-escalier_01.jpg, Door of hôtel du Vieux-Raisin. File:Assezat-02(12).jpg, Portal of hôtel d'Assézat. File:31_-_Hôtel_d'Assézat_-_Porte_escalier_de_l'angle_nord-ouest.jpg, Door of hôtel d'Assézat. File:Toulouse-porte-assezat-academies.jpg, Door of hôtel d'Assézat. File:Felzins-facade.jpg, Portal of Hôtel de Felzins, hôtel Molinier. File:Ancien_petit_Séminaire_de_l'Esquile.jpg, Portal of a former college of the university. File:Façade_de_Notre-Dame_de_la_Dalbade_-_Portail.jpg, Portal of Dalbade church. File:Hôtel_Dahus_Toulouse_Porte_de_la_tour_Tournoer.jpg, Door of hôtel Dahus. File:Entrée d'immeuble originale.jpg, Door of hôtel de Guillaume de Bernuy. File:Hotel_de_Bagis_-_Porte_des_vieillards.jpg, Door of hôtel de Bagis. File:Capitole_de_Toulouse_-_Cour_Henri_IV_-_portail_de_Nicolas_Bachelier.jpg, Triumphal portal of the Capitole. File:Toulouse-jardin-des-plantes_01.jpg, Door of the former Capitole, in the ''Jardin des plantes''. File:(Toulouse) Entrée du Collège Pierre de Fermat.jpg, Portal of the former Jesuit college.


17th century architecture


17th century religious architecture

The French Wars of Religion, which started in the second half of the 16th century, brought to the city many religious orders who came to seek asylum in this solid Catholic bastion. They had beautiful baroque churches built in the 17th century: among them, the Carthusians, Order of Carthusians, expelled by the Protestants from the region of Castres, founded the church of Saint-Pierre des Chartreux, the order of the Discalced Carmelites built the church of Saint-Exupère, the Confraternity of penitents, blue penitents founded the church of Saint-Jérôme and the order of Carmelite nuns created a convent of which a remarkable painted chapel remains. File:St Pierre des Chartreux - PA00094503.jpg, Church of Saint-Pierre des Chartreux. File:Toulouse_-_St-Pierre_des_chartreux_-_intérieur.jpg, Church of Saint-Pierre des Chartreux. Eglise Saint-Pierre des Chartreux de Toulouse - Façade.jpg, Portal of Saint-Pierre des Chartreux. File:Eglise_Saint-Exupère_de_Toulouse.jpg, Church of Saint-Exupère. File:Eglise_Saint-Exupère_de_Toulouse_-_St_Joseph_by_Drouet.jpg, Church of Saint-Exupère (detail of the facade). File:Église_Saint-Exupère_de_Toulouse_Interior_Nef.jpg, Church of Saint-Exupère. File:Église_Saint-Jérôme_de_Toulouse.jpg, Church of Saint-Jérôme. File:Chapelle des Carmélites - Exterieur.jpg, Chapel of the Carmelites (partly 18th century). File:Toulouse - Chapelle des Carmélites.jpg, Chapel of the Carmelites, painted decoration.


17th century civil architecture

After the Renaissance, the decorations in civil architecture became less numerous and ostentatious, due to the importance given to the moderation of the architectural structures and the development of interior decorations. The play of colours (between brick and stone) and reliefs (bossing) were less costly and nevertheless effective solutions for livening up facades. The 17th century is the century that gave Toulouse the largest number of its private mansions, most of them built by members of parliament.Guy Ahlsell de Toulza, Louis Peyrusse, Bruno Tollon, «Hôtels et demeures de Toulouse et du Midi toulousain» ("Hotels and residences in Toulouse and the region of Toulouse"), Editor Daniel Briand, 1997. Hotel_de_Caulet-Resseguier_(Toulouse).jpg, Hôtel de Caulet. Hôtel Pierre Comère.jpg, Hôtel Comère. (Toulouse) 24 Grande-rue Nazareth - Hôtel d'Avizard - Façade.jpg, Hôtel d'Avizard. Hotel_st_Jean_3.jpg, Hôtel Saint-Jean (courtyard), former Grand Priory of Knights Hospitaller. Toulouse-Capitole-Cour_Henri_IV_(2).jpg, Henri IV courtyard of the Capitole: brick and stone. Chalvet_2.jpg, Portal of hôtel de Chalvet. Hôtel_d'Orbessan_(Toulouse)_-_Façade_rue_Mage_-_Le_portail.jpg, Portal of hôtel d'Orbessan. Portail Lakanal.jpg, Portal of the former Jesuit novitiate. Toulouse - Portail Desplats.jpg, Portal of hôtel Desplats (courtyard). Ancien collège de l'Esquile 01.jpg, Portal of former college de l'Esquile. Hôtel_des_chevaliers_de_Saint-Jean_de_Jérusalem_in_Toulouse_Porche.jpg, Portal of hôtel Saint-Jean. Hôtel_Pierre_Comère_-_Portail_rue_Tripière.jpg, Side portal of hôtel Comère, cut out of brick.


18th century architecture

In the 18th century Toulouse made its living from its Parliament and from the wheat and corn trade, which was boosted by the creation of the
Canal du Midi The Canal du Midi (; ) is a long canal in Southern France (french: le Midi). Originally named the ''Canal royal en Languedoc'' (Royal Canal in Languedoc) and renamed by French revolutionaries to ''Canal du Midi'' in 1789, the canal is considere ...
at the end of the previous century. Among the major architectural achievements, the most notable were undoubtedly the construction of the quays of the Garonne and the new facade of the Capitole (1750-1760), designed by architect Guillaume Cammas. In the last third of the 18th century, the ever increasing influence of the Parisian model meant that red brick was no longer popular: the city facades were then covered with white paint to imitate stone. This is why nowadays, even though the white paint has generally been removed, there are walls with deep grooves carved in brick to imitate ashlar architecture. File:Capitole-27.jpg, Capitole - City hall. File:Le_Capitole.jpg, Capitole pediment and columns in red marble. File:Hôtel_de_Nupces.jpg, Hôtel de Nupces. File:Hôtel_d'Espie.JPG, Hôtel d'Espie. File:Hôtel_d'Espie_-_Portail_sur_la_rue_Mage_à_Toulouse.jpg, Portal of hôtel d'Espie. File:Chambre_de_commerce_-_Hôtel_de_Ciron_-_Fumel_à_Toulouse_-_Façade_sur_cour.jpg, Hôtel de Ciron-Fumel. File:Ancien_hôtel_de_Bonfontan_-_41_rue_Croix-Baragnon_Toulouse_-_MériméePA00094534_-_ferronneries_de_style_rocaille,_par_Bernard_Ortet.jpg, Hôtel de Bonfontan. File:Toulouse_-_Basilique_de_la_Daurade_(1).jpg, Basilica of la Daurade.


19th and 20th century architecture

Toulouse's 19th century architecture can be divided into three periods, which sometimes overlapped. In the first half of the century, at the instigation of architect Jacques-Pascal Virebent, the main planned squares were created: the Place du Capitole and the Place Wilson (called place Villeneuve when it was built), whose uniform architecture was inspired by Rue de Rivoli in Paris. From 1830 onwards, Auguste Virebent and his brothers (sons of Jacques-Pascal) developed a factory of low-cost moulded decorations which met with great success and adorned Toulouse facades with numerous terracotta ornaments, far from the austere architecture of their father. Then, in the last third of the 19th century, large Haussmann-style avenues were opened in the town centre, such as the central Alsace-Lorraine street, built in yellow brick to imitate Parisian stone. File:Toulouse-Wilson.JPG, ''Place Wilson'' (19th c.), an oval-shaped square. File:Toulouse-Place du Capitole.jpg, ''Place du Capitole'', the main square of Toulouse (19th c.). File:Café_Bibent.jpg, ''Place du Capitole'' (''Café Bibent''). File:Maison Lamothe (Toulouse).jpg, Facade with moulded terracotta decorations (19th c.). File:Immeuble_28_rue_des_Marchands.jpg, Facade with moulded terracotta decorations (19th c.). File:Toulouse - rue d'Alsace.jpg, Yellow brick of Alsace-Lorraine street (19th c.). File:Façade Art Nouveau, rue Gambetta.jpg, Art nouveau facade, Gambetta street (20th c.). File:Immeuble dit de La Dépêche du Midi, Toulouse.jpg, Art Deco facade, Alsace-Lorraine street (20th c.).


Banks of the Garonne, Canal du Midi, parks

The banks of the Garonne, Garonne river offer an interesting urban panorama of the city. Red brick dykes from the 18th century enclose the river which was subject to destructive floods. The Pont Neuf, Toulouse, Pont-Neuf took almost a century to build as the project was so ambitious (1545-1632). It was a very modern bridge for its time, removing the housing on the deck and using techniques such as basket-handle (surbased) arches, openings in the piers and stacked spouts to spread the water, making it the only bridge in Toulouse to withstand the violent floods of the past. Further downstream, the Bazacle is a ford across the Garonne river, in the 12th century the Bazacle Milling Company was the first recorded European joint-stock company. On the left bank of the river, historically a flood-prone bank, stand two former hospitals whose origins date back to the 12th century: the Hôtel-Dieu Saint-Jacques and the Hôpital de La Grave. Isolated on the left bank, victims of the plague and other sick people were thus kept away from the city by the width of the river. Built at the end of the 17th century, the
Canal du Midi The Canal du Midi (; ) is a long canal in Southern France (french: le Midi). Originally named the ''Canal royal en Languedoc'' (Royal Canal in Languedoc) and renamed by French revolutionaries to ''Canal du Midi'' in 1789, the canal is considere ...
bypasses the city centre and has linked Toulouse to the Mediterranean Sea ever since. Its 240 kilometres were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. The ''Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse, Jardin des Plantes'', the ''Grand Rond'' and the ''Jardin Royal'' form a set of adjacent parks that span several blocks and include the Museum of Natural History, cafés, children's activities and a botanical garden (18th-19th century). The ''Prairie des Filtres'', the Raymond VI garden and the Japanese garden are other interesting parks that border the center of Toulouse. File:Le Pont-Neuf de Toulouse.jpg, ''Pont-Neuf'' (16th-17th c.). File:Garonne_5102.jpg, Red brick dykes from the 18th century. File:Panorama Quais & Pont Neuf Toulouse.jpg, Quays of the Garonne and ''Pont-Neuf''. File:Hotel-dieu-02b(1).jpg, ''Hôtel-Dieu Saint-Jacques'' former hospital (12th–19th c.). File:Hopital_de_la_Grave_-_Toulouse_-_2012-06-23.jpg, ''Hôpital de La Grave, La Grave'' former hospital (12th–19th c.) and the copper dome of its chapel. File:Le_Port_de_la_Daurade.jpg, ''Port de la Daurade'', a former river port converted into a recreational area. File:Toulouse rempart et dôme au jardin Raymond VI.jpg, Raymond VI, Count of Toulouse, Raymond VI garden, at the foot of the last remains of the old Toulouse ramparts on the left bank. File:Canal du Midi Ramonville.jpg, ''
Canal du Midi The Canal du Midi (; ) is a long canal in Southern France (french: le Midi). Originally named the ''Canal royal en Languedoc'' (Royal Canal in Languedoc) and renamed by French revolutionaries to ''Canal du Midi'' in 1789, the canal is considere ...
'' (17th c.). File:Grand_Rond_(jardin).jpg, ''Grand rond'' park. File:Jardin_Japonais_de_Toulouse.jpg, Japanese garden. File:Ancienne_porte_du_Capitole_(Toulouse).jpg, Renaissance portal in ''Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse, Jardin des plantes''.


Museums and theme parks

Toulouse has many museums, the most important of which are: * ''Musée des Augustins'' is the fine arts museum of Toulouse, it is located in the former Augustinian convent (Toulouse), Augustinian convent. * Hôtel d'Assézat#Bemberg Foundation, Bemberg Foundation, housed in the Hôtel d'Assézat, presents to the public one of the major private collections of art in Europe. * ''Musée Saint-Raymond'' is the archeological museum of Toulouse, located in a former college of the university it presents the ancient history of Toulouse and a very rich collection of Roman sculptures from the imperial Roman villa of Chiragan. * ''Musée Paul Dupuy'' is the museum of Decorative Arts and Graphic Arts, including a very rich collection of clocks and watches. * ''Georges Labit Museum, Musée Georges Labit'' is dedicated to artifacts from the Far-Eastern and Ancient Egyptian civilizations. * ''Muséum de Toulouse'' is one of the most important natural history museums in France, housed in the former convent of the Discalced Carmelites. * ''Les Abattoirs'' is the museum of modern and contemporary art of the city, opened in a former municipal slaughterhouse. Toulouse also has several theme parks, notably highlighting its aeronautical and space heritage: * ''Cité de l'espace'' is a scientific discovery centre focused on spaceflight. * ''Aeroscopia'' is an aeronautical theme park located near Toulouse–Blagnac Airport, dedicated to the preservation of aeronautical historical heritage (it hosts for example two Concorde airliners). * ''L'Envol des pionniers'' is a museum that traces the great adventure of l' Aéropostale, a pioneering airmail company based in Toulouse which operated between France and South America from 1918 to 1933, and employed legendary pilots such as
Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Antoine Marie Jean-Baptiste Roger, comte de Saint-Exupéry, simply known as Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (, , ; 29 June 1900 – 31 July 1944), was a French writer, poet, aristocrat, journalist and pioneering aviator. He became a laureate of s ...
, Jean Mermoz or Henri Guillaumet... * ''Halle de La Machine'' is a vast hall that houses numerous small or giant animated machines, often inspired by the world of aeronautics, human or technological epics. File:Augustins_-_Gargouilles_de_l'ancienne_église_des_Cordeliers.jpg, ''Musée des Augustins''. File:Augustins_-_Dame_Tholose_-_1550_-_Jean_Rancy.jpg, ''Lady Tholose'', a bronze of the Renaissance (''Augustins''). File:Bemberg Fondation Toulouse - Hercule à la cour d'Omphale - Lucas Cranach l'Ancien - 1537 Inv.1098.jpg, Painting of Lucas Cranach the Elder at Bemberg Foundation. File:Toulouse - St Raymond.jpg, ''Musée Saint-Raymond''. File:Musée Georges Labit.jpg, ''Georges Labit Museum, Musée Gorges Labit''. File:Grand carré MHNT.jpg, ''Muséum de Toulouse''. File:Toulouse - Abattoirs - Picasso.jpg, Picasso at ''Les Abattoirs''. File:Les abattoirs - Musée d'art moderne de Toulouse.jpg, ''Les Abattoirs''. File:Ariane 5 at Cite de l'Espace 1.jpg, ''Cité de l'espace''. File:France Occitanie 31 Toulouse 04.jpg, ''Cité de l'espace''. File:Tarmac Nord Aeroscopia.jpg, ''Aeroscopia''. File:Envol_des_pionniers.jpg, ''L'Envol des pionniers'': a Salmson 2, Salmson 2 A.2 plane is exposed under a portrait of
Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Antoine Marie Jean-Baptiste Roger, comte de Saint-Exupéry, simply known as Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (, , ; 29 June 1900 – 31 July 1944), was a French writer, poet, aristocrat, journalist and pioneering aviator. He became a laureate of s ...
. File:Minotaure 2.jpg, The giant Minotaur of the ''Halle de La Machine''.


Economy

Since 2003, Toulouse has been the French city with the fastest growing GDP per capita, a performance driven by growing high-tech industries. Toulouse economy can rely on three pillars: large industrial companies, research laboratories and a huge pool of students, engineers and scientists. Indeed, Toulouse is home to the second largest research and education centre in France, it has a high quality of education, first class engineering schools, powerful industries supported by world leaders, such as Airbus or Thales Alenia for aeronautics and space. This ecosystem fosters innovation in fields such as artificial intelligence, IOT, robotics, avionics, embedded systems, biotechnology, health etc. Toulouse can particularly be described as the 'capital' of the European aerospace industry: it hosts the Airbus headquarters and assembly-lines of Airbus Airbus A320, A320, Airbus A330, A330, and Airbus A350 XWB, A350. The Airbus A380, A380 was also produced here (the last completed in 2021), as was the Concorde supersonic aircraft.Contacts
." Airbus. Retrieved 12 February 2010.
Toulouse also hosts the headquarters of ATR, one of the two headquarters of Liebherr Aerospace and Groupe Latécoère. As for the space industry, with 12,000 jobs, 400 companies and 25% of the European workforce, Toulouse is the main European hub.


Education

Toulouse has the fourth-largest student population in France after Paris, Lyon and Lille with 103,000 students (2012).


Colleges and universities

The University of Toulouse (''Université de Toulouse'') was established in 1229 (now split into three separate universities). Like the universities in Oxford and Paris, the University of Toulouse was established at a time when Europeans were starting to translate the writings of Arabs of Andalus and Greek philosophers. These writings challenged European ideology—inspiring scientific discoveries and advances in the arts—as society began seeing itself in a new way. These colleges were supported by the Church, in hopes of reconciling Greek philosophy and Christian theology. * Catholic University of Toulouse * Université Toulouse I, Toulouse School of Economics, Toulouse School of Management and Institut d'études politiques de Toulouse * University of Toulouse-Jean Jaurès (Formerly University of Toulouse II – Le Mirail) * Université Paul Sabatier (Toulouse III) Toulouse is also the home of Toulouse Business School (TBS), Toulouse School of Economics (TSE), the Institut supérieur européen de gestion group (ISEG Group), the Institut supérieur européen de formation par l'action (ISEFAC), E-Artsup and several engineering schools: * Institut catholique d'arts et métiers, ICAM Toulouse (Institut catholique d'arts et métiers) * INSA Toulouse * Institut supérieur de l'aéronautique et de l'espace, ISAE SUPAERO (Institut supérieur de l'aéronautique et de l'espace) * École Nationale de l'Aviation Civile, ENAC (École Nationale de l'Aviation Civile) * École Nationale Supérieure d'Électronique, d'Électrotechnique, d'Informatique, d'Hydraulique et des Télécommunications, INP ENSEEIHT (École Nationale Supérieure d'Électronique, d'Électrotechnique, d'Informatique, d'Hydraulique et des Télécommunications) * École nationale supérieure de formation de l'enseignement agricole, ENSFEA (École nationale supérieure de formation de l'enseignement agricole) * École nationale supérieure des ingénieurs en arts chimiques et technologiques, INP ENSIACET (École nationale supérieure d'ingénieurs en art chimique et technologique) * École Nationale Supérieure Agronomique de Toulouse, INP ENSAT (École Nationale Supérieure Agronomique de Toulouse) * École nationale de la météorologie, INP ENM (École Nationale de la Météorologie) * École pour l'informatique et les techniques avancées, EPITA (École pour l'informatique et les techniques avancées) * École pour l'informatique et les nouvelles technologies, EPITECH (École pour l'informatique et les nouvelles technologies or ''European Institute of Information Technology'') * Institut Polytechnique des Sciences Avancées, IPSA (Institut Polytechnique des Sciences Avancées) * École d'ingénieurs de Purpan, EIPurpan (École d'ingénieurs de Purpan)


Primary and secondary schools

The most well known high schools in Toulouse are Lycée Pierre-de-Fermat and Lycée Saint-Sernin. International schools serving area expatriates are in nearby Colomiers: * International School of Toulouse * Deutsche Schule Toulouse (German school)


Transport


Train

The main railway station, with regional and national services, is Toulouse-Matabiau station. In addition, there are several smaller stations in the city: Toulouse-Saint-Agne station, Toulouse-Saint-Agne, Gallieni-Cancéropôle station, Gallieni-Cancéropôle, Toulouse-Saint-Cyprien-Arènes station, Toulouse-Saint-Cyprien-Arènes, Le TOEC, Lardenne, Saint-Martin-du-Touch, Les Ramassiers, Montaudran and Lacourtensourt.


Metro

In addition to an extensive bus system, the Toulouse Metro is a Véhicule Automatique Léger, VAL (Véhicule Automatique Léger) rapid transit, metro system made up of driverless (automatic) rubber-tired underground, rubber-tired trains. Line A runs for from Balma-Gramont in the north-east to Basso Cambo in the south-west. Line B, which opened in June 2007, serves 20 stations north to south and intersects line A at Jean Jaurès. Line C has existed since line A was completed. It is not VAL but an urban railway line operated by SNCF. It connects to line A at Gare de Toulouse-Saint-Cyprien-Arènes, Arènes. Two other stations located in Toulouse are also served by line C. Lardenne, formerly named "Gare des Capelles", changed its name in September 2003 when line C opened. Le TOEC station opened on 1 September 2003 with the creation of line C, allowing an urban train service in Toulouse and close western suburbs. Similarly, Line D runs south from Gare de Toulouse Matabiau, Toulouse Matabiau to Muret.


Tramway

The Toulouse tramway, tramway line T1 (operating since December 2010), runs from Beauzelle to Toulouse passing through Blagnac. All urban bus, metro and tram services are operated by Tisséo. Tramway line T2 is a branch of the first line serving notably Toulouse Blagnac airport.


Cable car

Since May 13, 2022, the city of Toulouse has had a new mode of public transportation called Téléo. This is a cable car that links Paul-Sabatier University to Rangueil Hospital and the Oncopole (a major cancer research center). It allows to fly over the Garonne and the hills of Pech David and, with its 3 kilometers, it is the longest urban cable car in France. It is presented as the first link in a public transport belt that is not radial and oriented towards the city center, but designed to encircle the south of Toulouse.


Bicycle

In 2007, a citywide bicycle rental scheme called VélôToulouse was introduced, with bicycles available from automated stations for a daily, weekly, monthly or yearly subscription.


Airports

Airports include: * Toulouse Blagnac International Airport, Toulouse Blagnac: the principal local airport * Toulouse Francazal: former principal airport, then former military airfield, its activity is nowadays reduced * Toulouse-Lasbordes, Toulouse Lasbordes: this airfield is dedicated to leisure aviation and flying clubs


Canal

The
Canal du Midi The Canal du Midi (; ) is a long canal in Southern France (french: le Midi). Originally named the ''Canal royal en Languedoc'' (Royal Canal in Languedoc) and renamed by French revolutionaries to ''Canal du Midi'' in 1789, the canal is considere ...
begins in Toulouse and runs up to Sète.


Toulouse public transportation statistics

The average amount of time people spend commuting with public transit in Toulouse, for example to and from work, on a weekday is 44 min. 9.1% of public transit riders, ride for more than 2 hours every day. The average amount of time people wait at a stop or station for public transit is 9 min, while 10.4% of riders wait for over 20 minutes on average every day. The average distance people usually ride in a single trip with public transit is 7 km, while 8% travel for over 12 km in a single direction.


Communications

Toulouse is the home of Bonhoure Radio Tower, a 61-metre high lattice tower used for FM and TV transmission. In 2001 a large (100 km) optical fiber (symmetric 360Gbit/s) network named ''Infrastructure Métropolitaine de Télécommunications'' was deployed around the city and suburbs.


Culture

The Théâtre du Capitole is the home of opera and ballet; there has been a theatre on the site since 1736. The Orchestre national du Capitole de Toulouse, Orchestre National du Capitole, long associated with Michel Plasson, plays at the Halle aux Grains. Le château d'eau, pôle photographique de Toulouse, Le Château d'Eau, an old 19th-century water-tower, was converted as a gallery in 1974 by Jean Dieuzaide, a French photographer from Toulouse and is now one of the oldest public places dedicated to photography in the world. Toulouse's art museums include the Musée des Augustins, the Musée des Abattoirs, the Musée Georges Labit, and the Fondation Bemberg in the Hôtel d'Assézat. The Musée Saint-Raymond is devoted to Antiquity and the Muséum de Toulouse to natural history. Toulouse is the seat of the Académie des Jeux Floraux, the equivalent of the French Academy for the Occitan-speaking regions of southern France, making Toulouse the unofficial capital of Occitania, Occitan culture. The traditional Occitan cross, Cross of Toulouse (from Provence, under the name of cross of Provence), emblem of the County of Toulouse and commonly widespread around all of Occitania during the Middle Ages is the symbol of the city and of the newly founded Midi-Pyrénées ''région'', as well as a popular Occitan symbol. The city's gastronomic specialties include the Saucisse de Toulouse, a type of sausage, ''cassoulet'' Toulousain, a bean and pork stew, and ''garbure'', a cabbage soup with poultry. Also, foie gras, the liver of an overfed duck or goose, is a delicacy commonly made in the Midi-Pyrénées.


Sport

Stade Toulousain of the Top 14 is the most successful rugby union club in all of Europe, having been crowned European Rugby Champions Cup, European champions five times and French champions twenty-one times. Toulouse Olympique represents the city in rugby league. The club has been playing in the British rugby league system since 2016. They have been playing in the Super League, top tier in 2022 and will play in the 2nd tier RFL Championship, Championship in 2023. The club has had historical success in France, having been crowned French champions six times. The city also has a professional football team, Toulouse FC, which plays in Ligue 1, the highest level of football in France, and won the 1957 Coupe de France Final. The club plays at the Stadium Municipal, which was a venue during the 1998 FIFA World Cup and 2007 Rugby World Cup, as well as hosting important club rugby games and several Rugby League World Cups. Toulouse was also a host of EuroBasket 1999. File:Stadium-Lory.jpg, The Stadium de Toulouse, municipal Stadium (capacity: 33,150). File:Stade Ernest Wallon.jpg, Stade Ernest Wallon (capacity: 19,500). File:Stade toulousain vs RC Toulon - 2012-09-29 - 48.jpg, Rugby union: Stade toulousain. File:Offensive toulousaine, Toulouse, 6 mai 2018 (TFC - LOSC).jpg, Football: Toulouse Football Club. File:TOteam.jpg, Rugby league: Toulouse Olympique. File:TMB-2018-2019-Toulouse.jpg, Women's basket: Toulouse Métropole Basket. File:Fenix_Toulouse_20140831_-_Finale_Challenge_Marrane.jpg, Handball: Fenix Toulouse Handball. File:Volley_Ball_-_2012-03-20_-_Spacers_Toulouse_vs_Rennes-13.jpg, Volleyball: Spacer's Toulouse Volley.


Notable people

Several notable Toulousains have been scientists, such as Jean Dausset (1916-2009), 1980 winner of the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine; 17th-century mathematician Pierre de Fermat (1607-1665), who spent his life in Toulouse, where he wrote Fermat's Last Theorem and was a lawyer in the city's Parlement of Toulouse, Parlement; Paul Sabatier (chemist), Paul Sabatier (1854-1941), 1912 winner of the Nobel Prize in Chemistry; Albert Fert (b. 1938), 2007 winner of the Nobel Prize in Physics who grew up in Toulouse where he attended the Lycée Pierre-de-Fermat and Jean Tirole (b. 1953), owner of the 2014 Nobel Memorial Prize in Economic Sciences, Nobel Prize in Economic Sciences, chairman and founder of the Toulouse School of Economics along with Jean-Jacques Laffont. Musically, Toulouse is one of the two controversial, disputed birthplaces of Carlos Gardel (1890-1935) (the other being Tacuarembo, Uruguay), probably the most prominent figure in the history of the tango. The city's most renowned songwriter is Claude Nougaro (1929-2004). The composer and organist Georges Guiraud (1868–1928) was born in Toulouse. Concerning arts, Toulouse is the birthplace of Impressionist painter Henri-Jean Guillaume Martin, Henri Martin (1860-1943) as well as sculptors Alexandre Falguière (1831-1900) and Antonin Mercié (1845-1916). Moreover, Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres (1780-1867) and Antoine Bourdelle (1861-1929) were trained at the Toulouse fine arts school. Post Impressionist painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec's (1864-1901) father was Count Alphonse Charles de Toulouse-Lautrec Monfa (1838-1913) and was part of an aristocratic family of Counts of Toulouse, Odet de Foix, Vimcomte de Lautrec and the Viscounts of Montfa. French graffiti artist Cyril Kongo was born in Toulouse in 1969. Raymond IV, Count of Toulouse (c. 1041 - 1105), one of the leaders of the First Crusade, was born in Toulouse. Aviation pioneer Clément Ader (1841-1925) and psychiatrist Jean-Étienne Dominique Esquirol (1772-1840) were also natives.


International relations


Twin towns and sister cities

Toulouse is twinned with: * Atlanta, United States, since 1975 * Bologna, Italy, since 1981 * Elche, Spain, since 1981 * Chongqing, China, since 1981 * Kyiv, Ukraine, since 1975 * Tel Aviv, Israel, since 1962


Other cooperations

Toulouse also has accords of cooperation with the following towns: * Zaragoza, Aragón, Spain * N'Djamena, Chad * Hanoi, Vietnam * Saint-Louis, Senegal, Saint-Louis, Senegal * Düsseldorf, Germany


See also

* 138 Tolosa, an asteroid * Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Toulouse * André Abbal * Listing of the works of Alexandre Falguière * The works of Antonin Mercié * List of the mayors of Toulouse


Notes


References


Citations


Sources

* * *


External links


Toulouse tourist office

ToulouseCity.com


– About-France.com
Toulouse: pink, violets, red and black
– Official French website
Official site
{{authority control Toulouse, Cities in France Communes of Haute-Garonne Languedoc Cities in Occitania (administrative region) Midi-Pyrénées Prefectures in France Populated places established in the 2nd century BC