Tomoa Narasaki (楢﨑智亜 ''Narasaki Tomoa'', born June 22, 1996) is a Japanese professional

sport climber Sport climbing (or Bolted climbing) is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors (or bolts), permanently fixed into the rock for climber protection, in which a rope that is attached to the climber is clipped into the anchors to ...

and boulderer. He started climbing at age 10, together with

Sachi Amma Indrani (Sanskrit: इन्द्राणी, IAST: ''Indrāṇī, lit.'' Indra's queen), also known as Shachi (Sanskrit: शची, IAST: ''Śacī''), is the queen of the devas in Hinduism. Described as tantalisingly beautiful, proud and ki ...

, in Sachi's family climbing gym. Previously, he had been training apparatus gymnastics. In 2016 and 2019, he won both the

Bouldering World Championship The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial (i.e. held once every two years) world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the mal ...

and the overall title at the

Bouldering World Cup The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of climbing competitions held annually and organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering and speed. The number of competit ...

. His younger brother

Meichi Narasaki Meichi Narasaki (楢﨑明智 ''Narasaki Meichi'', born May 13, 1999) is a Japanese professional sport climber and boulderer. His older brother Tomoa Narasaki is also a professional sport climber. Rankings Climbing World Championships ...

is also a prominent professional climber. In 2019, Narasaki qualified for the

Tokyo 2020 Olympics The , officially the and also known as , was an international multi-sport event held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 in Tokyo, Japan, with some preliminary events that began on 21 July. Tokyo was selected as the host city during the 1 ...

by winning gold in the

IFSC Climbing World Championships The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial (i.e. held once every two years) world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the mal ...

. He placed fourth in the Olympic combined event. Narasaki formerly held the Japanese record for

speed climbing Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers. Competition speed climbing, which takes place on a ...

with a time of 5.73 seconds, which he secured in March 2021 at the

Climbing Japan Cup Climbing Japan Cup or Japan Climbing Cup is a series of climbing competitions held annually and organized by the JMSCA (Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association). The athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering and speed. The ...

speed competition. He is credited with devising the "Tomoa skip", a novel speed climbing method to bypass one of the lower holds in the speed climbing wall.

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

Climbing World Championships

World Cup podiums

Lead

Bouldering

Notable Ascents

On December 1, 2019, Narasaki became the sixth climber to flash a V14 boulder after sending ''Decided'' in Mizugaki, Japan, on his first attempt. In 2021, Narasaki sent ''Asagimadara'' ( V15) on his third attempt.

Personal life

On December 25, 2021, Narasaki and fellow Japanese sport climber

Akiyo Noguchi is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She is known for winning the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Bouldering four times. In her home country, she w ...

announced their marriage on their respective social media pages.

References

External links

Tomoa Narasaki's profile
on Adidas-rockstars.com
Tomoa Narasaki's profile
on Fiveten.com {{DEFAULTSORT:Narasaki, Tomoa Japanese rock climbers Living people 1996 births Asian Games medalists in sport climbing Sport climbers at the 2018 Asian Games Asian Games bronze medalists for Japan Medalists at the 2018 Asian Games Competitors at the 2017 World Games Sport climbers at the 2020 Summer Olympics Olympic sport climbers of Japan IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists Boulder climbers