![Bottles of Eau de Toilette](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/db/Bottles_of_Eau_de_Toilette.jpg)
Eau de toilette (, meaning "grooming water") is a lightly scented perfume. It is also referred to as aromatic waters and has a high alcohol content. It is usually applied directly to the skin after bathing or shaving. It is traditionally composed of alcohol and various
volatile oils. Traditionally these products were named after a principal ingredient; some being geranium water, lavender water, lilac water, violet water, spirit of myrcia and 'eau de Bretfeld'. Because of this, eau de toilette was sometimes referred to as "toilet water".
In modern perfumery, eau de toilette has less concentrated fragrance than
perfume
Perfume (, ; french: parfum) is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent. Th ...
(''eau de parfum'') and more than
cologne
Cologne ( ; german: Köln ; ksh, Kölle ) is the largest city of the German western States of Germany, state of North Rhine-Westphalia (NRW) and the List of cities in Germany by population, fourth-most populous city of Germany with 1.1 m ...
(''eau de Cologne'').
Types
![Perfume formulas 1910](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e4/Perfume_formulas_1910.jpg)
Eau de toilette is a weaker concentration of fragrance than perfume. The concentration of aromatic ingredients is typically as follows (ascending concentration):
* Splash and
after shave
Aftershave is a product applied to skin after shaving. Traditionally it is an alcohol-based liquid (splash), but it can be a lotion, gel, or even a paste.
It often contains an antiseptic agent such as denatured alcohol, stearate citrate or ...
: 1–3%
aromatic compound
Aromatic compounds, also known as "mono- and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons", are organic compounds containing one or more aromatic rings. The parent member of aromatic compounds is benzene. The word "aromatic" originates from the past grouping ...
s
*
Eau de Cologne
Eau de Cologne (; German: ''Kölnisch Wasser'' ; meaning "Water from Cologne"), or simply cologne, is a perfume originating from Cologne, Germany. Originally mixed by Johann Maria Farina (Giovanni Maria Farina) in 1709, it has since come to be a ge ...
(EdC): Citrus type perfumes with about 2–6% perfume concentrate aromatic compounds
* Eau de toilette (EdT): 5–15% (typical ~10%) aromatic compounds
* Eau de parfum (EdP), parfum de toilette (PdT): 10–20% (typical ~15%) aromatic compounds. Sometimes listed as "eau de perfume" or "millésime".
* Perfume extract: 15–40% (
IFRA: typical 20%) aromatic compounds
Perfume oils are often diluted with a solvent, though this is not always the case, and its necessity is disputed. By far the most common solvent for perfume oil dilution is ethanol or a mixture of ethanol and water. Perfume has a mixture of about 10–20% perfume oils mixed with alcohol (acting as a diffusing agent delivering the fragrant odor) and a trace of water. Colognes have about 3–5% perfume oil mixed with 80–90% alcohol with about 5 to 15 percent water in the mix. Originally,
eau de cologne
Eau de Cologne (; German: ''Kölnisch Wasser'' ; meaning "Water from Cologne"), or simply cologne, is a perfume originating from Cologne, Germany. Originally mixed by Johann Maria Farina (Giovanni Maria Farina) in 1709, it has since come to be a ge ...
was a mixture of citrus oils from such fruits as lemons, oranges, tangerines, limes, and grapefruits. These were combined with such substances as lavender and
neroli
Neroli oil is an essential oil produced from the blossom of the bitter orange tree (''Citrus aurantium subsp. amara'' or ''Bigaradia''). Its scent is sweet, honeyed and somewhat metallic with green and spicy facets. Orange blossom is also extract ...
(orange-flower oil). Toilet water has the least amount of perfume oil mixture among the three main liquid "perfumery" categories. It has only about 2 to 8 percent of some type of perfume oil and 60–80% alcohol dispersent with water making up the difference.
[Groom, p. 329] Toilet waters are a less concentrated form of these above types of alcohol-based perfumes. Traditionally cologne is usually made of citrus oils and fragrances, while toilet waters are not limited to this specification.
History
Hungarian Eau de toilette, an alcohol based perfume that is the predecessor of eau de cologne, was first produced in the fourteenth century, supposedly by a Hungarian man for
Queen Elisabeth of Hungary. This toilet water was called "eau de la reine de hongrie" or
Hungary Water, and contained the herb
rosemary
''Salvia rosmarinus'' (), commonly known as rosemary, is a shrub with fragrant, evergreen, needle-like leaves and white, pink, purple, or blue flowers, native plant, native to the Mediterranean Region, Mediterranean region. Until 2017, it was kn ...
, which allowed the scent to evaporate slowly on the skin.
[The History of Perfume](_blank)
However, some early scientists, including
Johann Beckmann
Johann Beckmann (1739–1811) was a German scientific author and coiner of the word technology, to mean the science of trades. He was the first man to teach technology and write about it as an academic subject.
Life
He was born on 4 June 1739 at ...
, doubt that it was created for the Queen of Hungary.
The King of France
Louis XIV
, house = Bourbon
, father = Louis XIII
, mother = Anne of Austria
, birth_date =
, birth_place = Château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye, Saint-Germain-en-Laye, France
, death_date =
, death_place = Palace of Vers ...
(1638–1715) used a concoction of scents called "heavenly water" to perfume his shirts; It consisted of
aloewood,
musk
Musk (Persian: مشک, ''Mushk'') is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. They include glandular secretions from animals such as the musk deer, numerous plants emitting similar fragrances, and artificial sub ...
,
orange flower,
rose water
Rose water ( fa, گلاب) is a flavoured water made by steeping rose petals in water. It is the hydrosol portion of the distillate of rose petals, a by-product of the production of rose oil
Rose oil (rose otto, attar of rose, attar of rose ...
and other
spice
A spice is a seed, fruit, root, bark, or other plant substance primarily used for flavoring or coloring food. Spices are distinguished from herbs, which are the leaves, flowers, or stems of plants used for flavoring or as a garnish. Spices a ...
s.
[Sherrow, p. 125 ''King Louis XIV (1638–1715) had his shirts scented with toilet water that included aloewood, rosewood, orangle flower, musk, and spices. The concoction was called "heavenly water" ...'']
Some Eau de toilette were once considered restorative skin toners with medical benefits. The journal
Medical Record
The terms medical record, health record and medical chart are used somewhat interchangeably to describe the systematic documentation of a single patient's medical history and care across time within one particular health care provider's jurisdic ...
reported in 1905 that a toilet water spray restores energies lost in business, social, and domestic situations. During the fourteenth through sixteenth centuries a type of toilet water called "plague waters" was supposed to drive away the
bubonic plague
Bubonic plague is one of three types of plague caused by the plague bacterium (''Yersinia pestis''). One to seven days after exposure to the bacteria, flu-like symptoms develop. These symptoms include fever, headaches, and vomiting, as well a ...
.
[Stoddart, p. 154]
Varieties
*
Carmelite Water
Carmelite water is an alcoholic extract of lemon balm and other herbs. It was initially crafted in the 14th Century by Carmelite nuns from the Abbey of St Just, and was commercialized under the name ''Eau de Carmes''. It is used as an herbal toni ...
– a water of lemon balm, orange flower, angelica root, and spices prepared for
Charles V of France
Charles V (21 January 1338 – 16 September 1380), called the Wise (french: le Sage; la, Sapiens), was King of France from 1364 to his death in 1380. His reign marked an early high point for France during the Hundred Years' War, with his armi ...
, first made in 1379 by the nuns of a
Carmelite
, image =
, caption = Coat of arms of the Carmelites
, abbreviation = OCarm
, formation = Late 12th century
, founder = Early hermits of Mount Carmel
, founding_location = Mount Car ...
abbey.
[Reader's Digest – Make your own Fragrance](_blank)
/ref>
* Carnation Toilet Water – extract of Jasmine 2.5 pints, extract of Orange Flower 2.5 pints, extract of Rose 5 pints, tincture of Vanilla 20 ounces, Oil of Pink (synthetic) 2 ounces.
* Creole Toilet Water – to 6.75 ounces of orris root cut in small pieces put 1.5 pint of French brandy. Allow this mix to stand for 2 weeks, stirring frequently. Then filter the mix and add 3 pints of French brandy and 3 drops of oil of orange blossoms. Add 0.75 fluid ounce of oil of geranium. Distill and add a little coumarin essence.[Hopkins, p. 875]
* Eau de lavand ambre – a favorite with Spanish women who use it in their hair as well as on the skin after bathing.
* Florida Water
Florida Water is an American version of Eau de Cologne, or Cologne Water. It has the same citrus basis as Cologne Water, but shifts the emphasis to sweet orange (rather than the lemon and neroli of the original Cologne Water), and adds spicy note ...
– based on the nineteenth-century formula for a commercially prepared toilet water that mixes floral essential oils.
* Geranium Toilet Water – oil of rose geranium, 2 ounces; tincture of orris root, 2 ounces; tincture of musk, 1 drop; rose water, 8 ounces: alcohol, 4 pints.
* Heliotrope Toilet Water – heliotropine, 2 drops; rose oil
Rose oil (rose otto, attar of rose, attar of roses, or rose essence) is the essential oil extracted from the petals of various types of rose. ''Rose ottos'' are extracted through steam distillation, while ''rose absolutes'' are obtained through ...
, 15 minims; bergamot oil, a half drop; neroli oil, 5 minims; alcohol, 10 ounces; water, 6 ounces.
* Honey water – an old-time English toilet water. The British Pharmaceutical Codex
The British Pharmaceutical Codex (BPC) was first published in 1907, to supplement the ''British Pharmacopoeia'' which although extensive, did not cover all the medicinal items that a pharmacist might require in daily work. Other books existed, ...
gives the formula.
* Jasmine toilet water – made with spirits of cologne, jasmine, and alcohol.
* Kananga Water – is a "holy water" used for purification in revival ceremonies.
* Lavender water – a formula called "upper Ten" consists of 1 fluid ounce of oil of lavender, 8 fluid ounces of deodorized alcohol, 3 fluid ounces of rose water, and 80 grains of carbonate of magnesia.[Keppel, p. 154]
* Nosegay
A nosegay, posy, or tussie-mussie is a small flower bouquet, typically given as a gift. They have existed in some form since at least medieval times, when they were carried or worn around the head or bodice. Doilies are traditionally used to bin ...
– distilled honey water with cloves, lavender and neroli.
* Oriental Toilet Water – an extensive list of ingredients is given in the Useful and Practical Notes section of National Druggist.
* Rose water toilet water – extract of rose 1 pint, of tuberose 1 pint, of cassia 1 pint, of jasmine 4 ounces, tincture of civet 3 ounces. Popular in the Middle East especially Egypt and called 'maward'.
* Viennese Cosmetic Toilet Water – bruised almonds, 15 parts; water of orange flower, 62 parts; water of roses, 62 parts. Rub up the almonds with the waters, allow to stand. Later add borate of soda, 1 part; spirit of benzoin, 2 parts. Dissolve.
* White Rose Toilet Water – one ounce of triple extract of white rose, 3 drops of oil of rose, 3 drops of oil of rose geranium, 26 ounces of cologne spirits, and 6 ounces of hot water.
* Hugh C. Muldoonin submitted various toilet water formulas he called "Own-make Toilet Specialties" to the ''Bulletin Of Pharmacy'' in 1917.[''Bulletin of pharmacy'', p. 317]
See also
*Scented water
Scented water, odoriferous water,Baer, p. 43 or sweet water is a water with a sweet aromatic smell. It is made of flowers or herbs and is the precursor to the modern-day perfume. Scented waters are also used in making other products such as p ...
Footnotes
References
Sources
* Beckmann, Johann, ''A History of Inventions and Discoveries: In Four Volumes 2'', 1817
* Baker, William Henry, ''A dictionary of men's wear...'', W. H. Baker, 1908
* Better Nutrition magazine, Nov 1999, Vol. 61, No. 11, ISSN 0405-668X, Published by Active Interest Media, Inc.
* Booth, Nancy M., ''Perfumes, splashes & colognes: discovering & crafting your personal fragrances'', Storey Publishing, 1997,
* ''Bulletin of pharmacy,'' Volume 36, E.G. Swift, 1922
* ''Beauty—its attainment and preservation'', Butterick Pub. Co., Ltd., 1892
* ''Consumer reports'', Volumes 25–26, Consumers Union of United States, 1960
* Cox, Nancy C., ''Perceptions of retailing in early modern England'', Ashgate Publishing, Ltd., 2007,
* Cristiani, Richard S., ''Perfumery and kindred arts: A comprehensive treatise on perfumery'', H. C. Baird, 1877
* ''Current opinion,'' Volume 32, The Current Literature Publishing Co., 1902
* Dewey, Willis Alonzo, ''Medical century'', Volume 14, Medical Century Company., 1906
* Ebert, Albert Ethelbert, ''The Standard formulary'', G.P. Engelhard & Co., 1897
* Fettner, Ann Tucker, ''Potpourri, incense, and other fragrant concoctions'', Workman Pub. Co., 1977,
* Fletcher, Ella Adelia, ''Woman Beautiful'', Kessinger Publishing, 1998,
* Frank, Marc Henry, ''Eugenics and Sex Relations for Men and Women'', Kessinger Publishing, 2005,
* Griffin, Judy, ''Flowers That Heal: Aromas, Herbs, Essences and Other Secrets of the Fairies'', Cosimo, Inc., 2002,
* Grolier, ''The New book of knowledge'', Grolier, 1986,
* Groom, Nigel, ''The new perfume handbook'', Springer, 1997,
* Halpern, Georges M., ''The Healing Trail: Essential Oils of Madagascar'', Basic Health Publications, Inc., 2003,
* Hiss, A. Emil, ''The new standard formulary:'', G.P. Engelhard, 1910
* Keithler, William R., ''The formulation of cosmetics and cosmetic specialties'', Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1956
* Hopkins, Albert Allis, ''The Scientific American cyclopedia of formulas: partly based upon the 28th ed. of Scientific American cyclopedia of receipts, notes and queries'', Munn & co., inc., 1910
* Lawless, Julia, ''The illustrated encyclopedia of essential oils: the complete guide to the use of oils in aromatherapy and herbalism'', Barnes & Noble, 1995,
* Lillard, Benjamin, ''Practical druggist and pharmaceutical review of reviews'', Volume 40, Lillard & Co., 1922
* Martin, George R., ''The mentor-world traveler,'' Volume 10, George R. Martin, 1922
* Miller, William Tyler, ''Garden & home builder'', volume 13, Doubleday, Page and Company, 1911
* Müller, Peter M., ''Perfumes: art, science, and technology'', Springer, 1994,
* Sherrow, Victoria, ''For appearance' sake: the historical encyclopedia of good looks, beauty, and grooming'', Greenwood Publishing Group, 2001,
* Stoddart, David Michael, ''The scented ape: the biology and culture of human odour'', Cambridge University Press, 1990,
* ''The National Druggist,'' Volume 42; H. R. Strong, 1912
Citations
{{Perfume
Toiletry
Perfumery
Economy of Cologne
Perfumes
Personal hygiene products
de:Parfüm#Verdünnungsklassen