Silk weaving is a manufacturing industry in
Varanasi
Varanasi (; ; also Banaras or Benares (; ), and Kashi.) is a city on the Ganges river in northern India that has a central place in the traditions of pilgrimage, death, and mourning in the Hindu world.
*
*
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* The city has a syncretic tr ...
. Varanasi is known throughout India for its production of very fine silk and
Banarasi sari
A Banarasi sari is a sari made in Varanasi, an ancient city which is also called Benares (Banaras). The saris are among the finest saris in India and are known for their gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk and opulent embroidery. The s ...
s.
Overview
Weaving is typically done within the household, and most weavers in Varanasi are
Momin Ansari Muslims.
Many of Varanasi's Muslims belong to a
weaver community that known by the name of
Ansari, which means "helper" in
Arabic
Arabic (, ' ; , ' or ) is a Semitic language spoken primarily across the Arab world.Semitic languages: an international handbook / edited by Stefan Weninger; in collaboration with Geoffrey Khan, Michael P. Streck, Janet C. E.Watson; Walte ...
. For generations they have passed on their craft from father to son, hand-weaving silk on room-sized foot-powered looms. They are fashioned into
Sarees worn only for special occasions; many Indian girls dream of wearing
Varanasi silk Saree for their wedding day.
Varanasi saris are adorned with intricate designs and zari embellishments making it popular during traditional functions and weddings. Earlier, the embroidery on sarees were often done with threads of pure gold. In 2009, weaver associations and cooperatives together secured
Geographical Indication
A geographical indication (GI) is a name or sign used on products which corresponds to a specific geographical location or origin (e.g., a town, region, or country). The use of a geographical indication, as an indication of the product's source, ...
(GI) rights for ‘Banaras Brocades and Sarees’.
This silk is used in large part for the production of
Banarasi sari
A Banarasi sari is a sari made in Varanasi, an ancient city which is also called Benares (Banaras). The saris are among the finest saris in India and are known for their gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk and opulent embroidery. The s ...
s, which are a regional type of
sari
A sari (sometimes also saree or shari)The name of the garment in various regional languages include:
* as, শাৰী, xārī, translit-std=ISO
* bn, শাড়ি, śāṛi, translit-std=ISO
* gu, સાડી, sāḍī, translit-std ...
made from silk.
there are roughly 40,000 weavers in Varanasi, down from 300,000.
Some attribute the decline to lower demand of Saris or higher number of imported Saris. Others suggest that power looms played a role.
Varanasi has a high rate of
Child labour given the unorganised nature of small scale industries. According to
Human Rights Watch
Human Rights Watch (HRW) is an international non-governmental organization, headquartered in New York City, that conducts research and advocacy on human rights. The group pressures governments, policy makers, companies, and individual human ri ...
, it is common for children as young as 5 or 6 to begin working in industry because it is believed to be more efficient to teach them from a very young age rather than teaching an older child of 12 the trade.
See also
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Silk in the Indian subcontinent
Silk In India, about 97% of the raw mulberry silk is produced in the Indian states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and West Bengal. Mysore and North Bangalore, the upcoming site of a US$20 million "Silk City", contribute to a majority ...
References
{{reflist
Silk production
Economy of Varanasi
Indian weavers
Textile arts of India
Textile industry of India
Silk in India