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Susan Jane Collier (12 October 1938 – 18 May 2011) was an English textile designer. She began in a freelance capacity and sold sketches to scarf brands Richard Allan and Jacquar. Collier joined
Liberty Liberty is the ability to do as one pleases, or a right or immunity enjoyed by prescription or by grant (i.e. privilege). It is a synonym for the word freedom. In modern politics, liberty is understood as the state of being free within society fr ...
in 1961, and specialised in floral prints dresses. She was helped by her sister Sarah Campbell starting in 1968, and co-founded the independent Collier Campbell Ltd studio in 1979.


Early life

Collier was born on 12 October 1938 in
Manchester Manchester () is a city in Greater Manchester, England. It had a population of 552,000 in 2021. It is bordered by the Cheshire Plain to the south, the Pennines to the north and east, and the neighbouring city of Salford to the west. The t ...
. She was the daughter of actress
Patience Collier Patience Collier (born Irene Marjorie Ritscher; 19 August 1910 – 13 July 1987) was a British actress. Career Patience Collier began her theatrical career in Manchester. In 1956 she played Maria in Denis Cannan and Pierre Bost's ''The Power a ...
and campaigning pharmacologist Henry Oswald Jackson "Harry" Collier. She had two siblings; a sister
Sarah Sarah (born Sarai) is a biblical matriarch and prophetess, a major figure in Abrahamic religions. While different Abrahamic faiths portray her differently, Judaism, Christianity, and Islam all depict her character similarly, as that of a piou ...
and a brother
Joe Joe or JOE may refer to: Arts Film and television * ''Joe'' (1970 film), starring Peter Boyle * ''Joe'' (2013 film), starring Nicolas Cage * ''Joe'' (TV series), a British TV series airing from 1966 to 1971 * ''Joe'', a 2002 Canadian animated ...
. Collier became interested in poetry because of her father, as well as an interest in natural forms such as wildlife. She had the importance of hard work and creative thought instilled in her from an early age. Both parents painted pictures of flowers which excited Collier, and they brought her drawer-lining paper and powder paints to practise her skill. She was taken on walks by her father which garnered an interest in nature, and taught her to concentrate on butterflies wings. Collier left school with three
O Level The O-Level (Ordinary Level) is a subject-based qualification conferred as part of the General Certificate of Education. It was introduced in place of the School Certificate in 1951 as part of an educational reform alongside the more in-depth ...
qualifications at the age of 15 and attended catering college. She did not attend art school and therefore was not formally trained in the field. Collier moved to London when she was 18, and worked part-time as an theatrical dresser.


Career

She started her career as a freelance textile designer in a self-made studio in a spare bedroom in her South London home. She was attracted to the area because of its cultural diversity and class mixture. Collier sold sketches of her work to the scarf brands Richard Allan and Jacqmar. She grew frustrated at another person was using her work under her name, and went to London Prints company Liberty. Collier decided that continue her career, the company would have to purchase two of her designs. They elected to purchase six in 1961 and commissioned further designs. She firstly worked for the Tana Lawn cotton range and specialised in floral prints dresses, and supplied Liberty scarves with designs. Collier began being assisted by her younger sister Sarah Campbell in 1968. That same year she was retained by Liberty. Collier was appointed as Liberty's design and colour consultant on its London Prints’ fabrics and products in 1971, and had responsibility for its apparel, decorative fabrics and accessory ranges. Collier eventually succeeded
Bernard Nevill Bernard Nevill FRSA FCSD (24 September 1930 – 30 January 2019) was a British designer and academic, formerly a professor at Saint Martin's School of Art and design director for Liberty of London. Career Nevill joined Liberty's in 1965, and "re ...
as design director. Collier became determined to supply wholesale quantities required for couturiers ready-to-wear collection, and do a similar action for furnishings. She and Campbell founded the independent Collier Campbell Ltd studio in 1979; the two had made the decision to no longer work for other individuals. Collier worked on the design for the first off-the-peg collection by Yves Saint Laurent, along with
Bill Gibb William Elphinstone Gibb (23 January 1943 – 3 January 1988) was a Scottish fashion designer who became renowned in the 1960s and 70s for his unusual and flattering designs. Early life and education Gibb was born near New Pitsligo, a small v ...
,
Cacharel Jean Cacharel SA () is a French company of ready-to-wear clothing, perfume and accessories, founded in 1958 by Jean Bousquet. Cacharel designs are characterized by their youthful style, femininity, lightness, refinement, and use of bright colours ...
, and
Daniel Hechter Paris Daniel Hechter Paris is a French fashion and lifestyle brand with 45 licensees worldwide. It sells men's and women's wear, accessories, and consumer goods. Since 1998, the former licensee - ''Otto Aurach ltd.'', headquartered in Miltenberg (Ger ...
. The company established relationships with several shopping firms. She left Liberty in 1977 which allowed her to retain copyright of her work. Her value was that good designs should be made available to every person. They were commissioned by
Habitat In ecology, the term habitat summarises the array of resources, physical and biotic factors that are present in an area, such as to support the survival and reproduction of a particular species. A species habitat can be seen as the physical ...
to design their textile lifestyle look in 1974, and was the company's major textile converter by 1980. Collier Campbell won the Duke of Edinburgh's designer prize in 1984 for a decorative fabric collection called "six views", and four years later, they were commissioned by Conran to design the carpets
Gatwick Airport Gatwick Airport (), also known as London Gatwick , is a major international airport near Crawley, West Sussex, England, south of Central London. In 2021, Gatwick was the third-busiest airport by total passenger traffic in the UK, after H ...
's North Terminal.


Personal life and death

She was twice married: firstly to pharmacologist
Andrew Herxheimer Andrew Herxheimer (4 November 1925 – 21 February 2016) was a German-born British clinical pharmacologist. He was "interested in all aspects of providing independent, unbiased, clear and concise information about therapeutic interventions to pro ...
in 1961 with whom she had two children, Charlotte and Sophie Herxheimer, and to broadcaster Frank Delany. Both marriages ended in divorce. Collier died in London on 18 May 2011 from cancer.


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Collier, Susan 1938 births 2011 deaths Artists from Manchester British textile designers