Surfboard Shaping
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A surfboard shaper is someone who designs and builds
surfboard A surfboard is a narrow plank used in surfing. Surfboards are relatively light, but are strong enough to support an individual standing on them while riding an ocean wave. They were invented in ancient Hawaii, where they were known as ''papa he'e ...
s. The process of surfboard shaping has evolved over the years, and the shaper often tailors his or her work to meet the requirements of a client or a certain
wave In physics, mathematics, and related fields, a wave is a propagating dynamic disturbance (change from equilibrium) of one or more quantities. Waves can be periodic, in which case those quantities oscillate repeatedly about an equilibrium (res ...
. Surfboard shapers can be independent or work in collaboration with
mass-production Mass production, also known as flow production or continuous production, is the production of substantial amounts of standardized products in a constant flow, including and especially on assembly lines. Together with job production and batch ...
companies. While originally made from wood, most modern surfboards are now constructed from pre-formed
polyurethane Polyurethane (; often abbreviated PUR and PU) refers to a class of polymers composed of organic chemistry, organic units joined by carbamate (urethane) links. In contrast to other common polymers such as polyethylene and polystyrene, polyurethan ...
or
Styrofoam Styrofoam is a trademarked brand of closed-cell extruded polystyrene foam (XPS), commonly called "Blue Board", manufactured as foam continuous building insulation board used in walls, roofs, and foundations as thermal insulation and water barrie ...
EPS blanks. The surfboard is then shaped using an array of tools, including but not limited to the following:
surform A surform tool (also surface-forming tool) features perforated sheet metal and resembles a food grater. A surform tool consists of a steel strip with holes punched out and the rim of each hole sharpened to form a cutting edge. The strip is moun ...
s,
rasp A rasp is a coarse form of file used for coarsely shaping wood or other material. Typically a hand tool, it consists of a generally tapered rectangular, round, or half-round sectioned bar of case hardened steel with distinct, individually cut ...
s, grinders, sanders, and
planes Plane(s) most often refers to: * Aero- or airplane, a powered, fixed-wing aircraft * Plane (geometry), a flat, 2-dimensional surface Plane or planes may also refer to: Biology * Plane (tree) or ''Platanus'', wetland native plant * ''Planes' ...
. After the form of the surfboard is sculpted from the blank, the shaper can lay
fiberglass Fiberglass (American English) or fibreglass (Commonwealth English) is a common type of fiber-reinforced plastic using glass fiber. The fibers may be randomly arranged, flattened into a sheet called a chopped strand mat, or woven into glass cloth ...
or
carbon fiber Carbon fiber-reinforced polymers (American English), carbon-fibre-reinforced polymers (Commonwealth English), carbon-fiber-reinforced plastics, carbon-fiber reinforced-thermoplastic (CFRP, CRP, CFRTP), also known as carbon fiber, carbon compo ...
sheets over the top and bottom of the surfboard, and laminate each sheet with a thermosetting substance, such as
epoxy Epoxy is the family of basic components or cured end products of epoxy resins. Epoxy resins, also known as polyepoxides, are a class of reactive prepolymers and polymers which contain epoxide groups. The epoxide functional group is also coll ...
or
polyester resin Polyester resins are synthetic resins formed by the reaction of dibasic organic acids and polyhydric alcohols. Maleic anhydride is a commonly used raw material with diacid functionality in unsaturated polyester resins. Unsaturated polyester resins ...
.


History


Ancient Hawaiian Surfboards

There exists very little evidence that pinpoints the exact location of the first surfboard shaper; however, historical analysis suggests that surfboarding itself first originated in
Hawaii Hawaii ( ; haw, Hawaii or ) is a state in the Western United States, located in the Pacific Ocean about from the U.S. mainland. It is the only U.S. state outside North America, the only state that is an archipelago, and the only stat ...
. The Hawaiian islanders most likely utilized only three species of tree as the base for their surfboards: the
wiliwili Wiliwili (''Erythrina sandwicensis''), is a species of tree in the pea family, Fabaceae, that is endemic to the Hawaiian Islands. It is the only species of '' Erythrina'' that naturally occurs there. It is typically found in Hawaiian tropical d ...
(''Erythrina monosperma''), ulu (''Artocarpus incisa''), and
koa KOA (short for Kampgrounds of America) is an American franchise of privately owned campgrounds. Having more than 500 locations across the United States and Canada, it is the world's largest system of privately owned campgrounds. It was founded in ...
(''Acacia koa''). After the chosen tree was cut, Hawaiian shapers used sea coral and ''oahi'' stones for light reduction; subsequently, the root of the ''ti'' plant and the bark of the ''
kukui ''Aleurites moluccanus'', the candlenut, is a flowering plant, flowering tree in the Euphorbia, spurge Family (biology), family, Euphorbiaceae, also known as candleberry, Indian walnut, ''kemiri'', varnish tree, ''nuez de la India'', ''buah ker ...
'' plant were used for the final burnish of the surfboard. ''Surfboard'' shaping was regarded by the Hawaiian islanders as a ceremonial rite; Hawaiian islanders often offered fish to surfriding trees as offerings. Three foundational templates for surfboard shaping were utilized by the Hawaiian islanders: the ''
alaia An alaia (pronounced , ) is a thin, round-nosed, square-tailed surfboard ridden in pre-20th century Hawaii. The boards were about long, weighed up to , and generally made from the wood of the Koa Tree. They are distinct from modern surfboards ...
'', the ''paipo'', and the ''olo''. The type of surfboard shape was actually indicative of Hawaiian social structure; the ''alaia'' and ''paipo'' boards were used by the commoners, while the ''olo'' boards were reserved for the royal class. However, the primary distinction between each ancient Hawaiian surfboard shape is their length and weight; ''paipo'' boards ranged from 3–6 feet long, ''alaia'' boards ranged from 7 to 12 feet long, and ''olo'' boards measured up to 20 feet long.


The "Hollow Board" Era

The next technological change in the surfboard shaping industry came with the introduction of the “Hollow Board” by Hawaiian resident Tom Blake. In 1926, Blake acquired an ancient ''olo'' surfboard from Honolulu’s
Bishop Museum The Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, designated the Hawaii State Museum of Natural and Cultural History, is a museum of history and science in the historic Kalihi district of Honolulu on the Hawaiian island of Oʻahu. Founded in 1889, it is the lar ...
; the board was originally 16 feet long and weighed 150 pounds. In an effort to replicate the structure of the ''olo'' board, Blake drilled holes in a redwood blank and sealed the top of with wood with sheets of
veneer Veneer may refer to: Materials * Veneer (dentistry), a cosmetic treatment for teeth * Masonry veneer, a thin facing layer of brick * Stone veneer, a thin facing layer of stone * Wood veneer, a thin facing layer of wood Arts and entertainment * ' ...
, effectively creating the first “hollow” surfboard. Blake’s innovative design drastically reduced the weight of the surfboard, and by 1930, the “Hollow Board” became the first mass-produced surfboard in the world.


The "Balsa Era" and the Hot Curl Board

The advent of the 1930s marks the next technological revolutions in the history of the surfboard shaper.
Balsa ''Ochroma pyramidale'', commonly known as the balsa tree, is a large, fast-growing tree native to the Americas. It is the sole member of the genus ''Ochroma''. The tree is famous for its wide usage in woodworking, with the name ''balsa'' being ...
wood began to emerge as the most versatile base for the modernizing shaper; the balsa wood drastically reduced the weight of the surfboard, and allowed for surfers to move in the water with more speed and agility. The addition of balsa wood subsequently led to the surfboard shaper’s move towards the “Hot Curl Design.” By shaving off parts of the tail and shaping the sides of the board, surfboard shapers were able to produce surfboards that allowed surfers to pull into the “curl” of a wave.


Modern Construction

The beginning of the 1940s marked the introduction of fiberglass resin, which allowed shapers to construct surfboards that were strong, light, and waterproof. Furthermore, surfboard shapers began to utilize alternate base materials, including both plastic and polyurethane foam. The addition of the new materials as well as fiberglass gave surfboard shapers more freedom and allowed them to incorporate both fins and rocker design in the construction of surfboards. In the 1960s, the design of surfboard began to significantly shrink in size. In the era known as the "Shortboard Revolution", surfboard shapers, most notably
George Greenough George Hamilton Perkins Greenough (born November 6, 1941) is an influential surfer known during the 1960s and 1970s for his designs and work in film, board design, fin characteristics, and other creations for the aquatic medium. Greenough's and Mc ...
,
Bob McTavish Bob McTavish (born 1944) is an Australian surfboard designer and member of the surfing hall of fame. Overview Bob McTavish is an Australian surfboard designer who is often credited with the invention of the V-bottom surfboard and was one of ...
, and
Simon Anderson Simon Anderson (born 7 July 1954) is an Australian competitive surfer, surfboard shaper, and writer. He is credited with the 1980 invention of a three-fin surfboard design, called the "thruster". Early life Anderson grew up in the Northern Be ...
reduced the length of the surfboard, creating a higher level of maneuverability. This innovation serves as the foundation for contemporary performance surfing.


Surfboard Shaping Today

Currently, many surfboard shapers design surfboards using
computer program A computer program is a sequence or set of instructions in a programming language for a computer to execute. Computer programs are one component of software, which also includes documentation and other intangible components. A computer program ...
s and hot-wire cutting machines that expedite the design process, especially in relation to
mass-production Mass production, also known as flow production or continuous production, is the production of substantial amounts of standardized products in a constant flow, including and especially on assembly lines. Together with job production and batch ...
. These computer programs allow the shaper to create an exacting and reproducible design that can be easily fine-tuned and adjusted. Many professional shapers outsource the highly specialized task of
lamination Lamination is the technique/process of manufacturing a material in multiple layers, so that the composite material achieves improved strength, stability, sound insulation, appearance, or other properties from the use of the differing materials ...
to “glassers”; “glassers” laminate
fiberglass Fiberglass (American English) or fibreglass (Commonwealth English) is a common type of fiber-reinforced plastic using glass fiber. The fibers may be randomly arranged, flattened into a sheet called a chopped strand mat, or woven into glass cloth ...
to the foam core of the surfboard using thermosetting resins, such as
polyester Polyester is a category of polymers that contain the ester functional group in every repeat unit of their main chain. As a specific material, it most commonly refers to a type called polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Polyesters include natural ...
or
epoxy Epoxy is the family of basic components or cured end products of epoxy resins. Epoxy resins, also known as polyepoxides, are a class of reactive prepolymers and polymers which contain epoxide groups. The epoxide functional group is also coll ...
.
Fins A fin is a thin component or appendage attached to a larger body or structure. Fins typically function as foils that produce lift or thrust, or provide the ability to steer or stabilize motion while traveling in water, air, or other fluids. Fin ...
and assorted plugs are usually after lamination, and the final product is sanded and glossed down with buffing compounds and glossing resins. The surfboard shaper often designs their surfboards based on the specifications of their client; the shaper will adjust the dimensions and concave of the board to tailor to different styles of surfing and various types of waves.


How Surfboards Are Shaped

Surfboard shaping is not done so easily; it takes patience and determination to properly craft a surfboard. Starting from the room where it's crafted and finishing with its glassing process. Surfboard shapers use a shaping room to begin their craft. Usually the rooms are at least and consist of fluorescent lights. The standings where the blanks are shaped are nailed to the floor with lighting aligned near them. Lighting is a crucial part of the crafting process to make sure the board is perfectly constructed with the right dimensions. There are four key steps in building and shaping a surfboard: Shaping the template, preparing the fin setup and rails, rounding rails, and smoothing the outline.


Shaping the Template

Start by adjusting the template paper over the blank, then cut the blank with a handsaw on both sides. Sand the rails until the edges are square. Then measure the size and thickness of the blank this will give you the measurements of foam needed. Remove the extra foam by passing it perpendicular to the stringer from tail to nose. Then repeat the process on the opposite side. Shape the tail and rocker by passing the planer over the areas.


Preparing the Fin Setup and Rails

Mark the front fins positions on both sides then mark the back fins. Carefully remove all mistakes on the blank with sandpaper. Finally, cut the rail bevel from nose to fins to give a rounded-edge shape to the board.


Rounding Rails

Start by turning the rails with the planer (nose to tail), then create a 45-degree angle from turning point on the deck to the top. Make sure the symmetry is correct on the other rail. Then with a sanding block round the rails to reduce sharp edges.


Smoothing the Outline

Sand the deck until it blends with the rails. Then round and smooth the rails on both side. Then confirm the overall symmetry of the board. Measure and take note of the dimensions of the board. Finally, sign the surfboard and send it off to glassing.


Notable Shapers


Hobart "Hobie" Alter

Hobart Alter Hobart "Hobie" Alter (October 31, 1933 – March 29, 2014) was an American surf and sailing entrepreneur and pioneer, creator of the Hobie Cat catamarans, and founder of the Hobie company. Biography Hobie Alter will be remembered for creati ...
, also known as “Hobie", was a prominent surfboard shaper from
Dana Point, California Dana Point () is a city located in southern Orange County, California, United States. The population was 33,107 at the 2020 census. It has one of the few harbors along the Orange County coast, and with ready access via State Route 1, it is a po ...
who is famously known for his experimentation with
polyurethane foam Polyurethane products have many uses. Over three quarters of the global consumption of polyurethane products is in the form of foams, with flexible and rigid types being roughly equal in market size. In both cases, the foam is usually behind othe ...
as a base material for surfboards. In 1950, Hobie first began shaping balsa-wood surfboards in his family’s
Laguna Beach Laguna Beach (; ''Laguna'', Spanish for "Lagoon") is a seaside resort city located in southern Orange County, California, in the United States. It is known for its mild year-round climate, scenic coves, environmental preservation efforts, and a ...
garage; however, it wasn’t until a few years later that he opened the first Southern California surf shop in Dana Point. Hobie was a pioneer in 20th century surfboard construction and design; his most famous legacy lies in his creation of the polyurethane foam surfboard in 1958. The Hobie company continues to manufacture surfboards today.


Jeff Ho

Jeff Ho Jeff Ho Surfboards and Zephyr Productions was a surfboard manufacturing facility and surf shop located in Santa Monica, California, that opened in 1971 and closed in 1976. The building was designated as a City Landmark in 2007. History In 197 ...
had a formative impact on surfboard shaping design and style in mid-20th century California. Ho shaped his first surfboard at the age of 14, and he soon began repairing and re-designing old boards found on the coast. In 1966, Ho began working as an apprentice to Bob Milner at Robert's Surfboards in Playa del Ray, California. It was here that Ho developed both the skillset to design high-performance surfboards; Ho's innovation led to the creation of the swallowtail board, which would later become a signifier of his shaping. In 1972, Ho purchased the a surf shop on the corner of Main and Bay Streets in Venice, California; he rebranded the shop as "
Jeff Ho Surfboards and Zephyr Productions Jeff Ho Surfboards and Zephyr Productions was a surfboard manufacturing facility and surf shop located in Santa Monica, California, that opened in 1971 and closed in 1976. The building was designated as a City Landmark in 2007. History In 197 ...
." While the Zephyr shop has been closed since 1976, Jeff Ho continues to shape surfboards as a personal Hobby to this day.


Donald Takayama

Donald Takayama Donald Moke Takayama (November 16, 1943 – October 22, 2012) was an American professional surfer and surfboard shaper. Originally a longboard surfer, Takayama won the Master's division of the United States Surfing Champions in 1971, 1972 and ...
was a professional surfer and acclaimed shaper from Hawaii. He began shaping surfboards out of wooden railway ties as a young boy; however, in 1957, he moved to California to apprentice under the legendary shaper
Dale Velzy Dale Velzy (September 23, 1927 – May 26, 2005) was an American surfboard shaper, credited with being the world's first commercial shaper. He opened the first professional surf shop in Manhattan Beach, California in 1950, personally hand fashio ...
. Takayama eventually began to shape for Jacobs' Surfboards; his visually-clean longboard design became one of the most popular surfboard models in the mid 20th century. Takayama's knowledge and skill in regards to surfboard design have defined him as one of the most influential surfboard shapers of all time.


Simon Anderson

Simon Anderson Simon Anderson (born 7 July 1954) is an Australian competitive surfer, surfboard shaper, and writer. He is credited with the 1980 invention of a three-fin surfboard design, called the "thruster". Early life Anderson grew up in the Northern Be ...
is a surfer and shaper from
Sydney, Australia Sydney ( ) is the capital city of the States and territories of Australia, state of New South Wales, and the most populous city in both Australia and List of cities in Oceania by population, Oceania. Located on Australia's east coast, the metro ...
who is most known for his innovation of the " thruster" board. In 1980, after viewing the work of shaper Frank Williams, Anderson constructed a surfboard with a square tail and three identical fins. Anderson's innovation, colloquially known as the "thruster", produced surfboards with enhanced stability and improved manuveribility. Anderson's "thruster" design is still utilized in the contemporary shaping world.


Other Notable Shapers

*
Robert August Robert August (born 1945) is an American surfer and surfboard shaper. Raised in Seal Beach, California, he attended Huntington Beach High School where he was ASB President his senior year. He is most famous as one of the subjects of Bruce Brown ...

Richard (Dick) BrewerMike Diffenderfer
*
Gerry Lopez Gerry Lopez (born November 7, 1948), aka Mr. Pipeline, is an American surfer, shaper, journalist and film actor. Early life Lopez was born in Honolulu, Hawaii, grew up in East Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii, and attended Punahou School. He frequented ...
*
Mickey Munoz Mickey Munoz, nicknamed "The Mongoose", is an early surfing pioneer and surfboard shaper. He was featured in the 2004 surfing documentary '' Riding Giants''. He currently resides in Capistrano Beach, California and designs boards for Surftech, a ...
*
Dale Velzy Dale Velzy (September 23, 1927 – May 26, 2005) was an American surfboard shaper, credited with being the world's first commercial shaper. He opened the first professional surf shop in Manhattan Beach, California in 1950, personally hand fashio ...
* John Whitmore * Jimmy Lewis *
George Greenough George Hamilton Perkins Greenough (born November 6, 1941) is an influential surfer known during the 1960s and 1970s for his designs and work in film, board design, fin characteristics, and other creations for the aquatic medium. Greenough's and Mc ...
*
Bob McTavish Bob McTavish (born 1944) is an Australian surfboard designer and member of the surfing hall of fame. Overview Bob McTavish is an Australian surfboard designer who is often credited with the invention of the V-bottom surfboard and was one of ...


References


History of the Surfboard
!-- Several of these references may no longer be applicable to the content presented in this article. This issue is discussed on the talk page of the article. -->
Evolution of the SurfboardHow to Shape a SurfboardBrief History of the SurfboardVisuals on How to Shape a SurfboardHobieDonald TakayamaSimon AndersonRobert August


External links


Swaylocks.com a surfboard design forum where shapers show their work and discuss designs and techniques
*{{in lang, fr}
Shaperoom.net design forum
Surfboard shapers