Stari Begej – Carska Bara
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Carska Bara ( sr-Cyrl, Царска Бара, lit=Imperial Pond) is the largest individual
bog A bog or bogland is a wetland that accumulates peat as a deposit of dead plant materials often mosses, typically sphagnum moss. It is one of the four main types of wetlands. Other names for bogs include mire, mosses, quagmire, and muskeg; a ...
in Serbia, in the municipality of Zrenjanin. Along with the neighboring pond of Stari Begej (old arm of the
Begej The Bega or Begej ( ro, Bega; sr, / ; german: Bega; hu, Béga, formerly ''Kistemes''), is a 244 km (152 mile) long river in Romania (169 km; 105 mi.) and Serbia (75 km; 47 mi.). It rises in the Poiana Ruscă Mountai ...
river) it forms the
Special nature reserve Special or specials may refer to: Policing * Specials, Ulster Special Constabulary, the Northern Ireland police force * Specials, Special Constable, an auxiliary, volunteer, or temporary; police worker or police officer Literature * Specials ( ...
"Carska Bara" ().


Location

Carska Bara is 17 kilometers south of the town of Zrenjanin, in the west-central part of the Serbian section of Banat, near the mouth of the river
Begej The Bega or Begej ( ro, Bega; sr, / ; german: Bega; hu, Béga, formerly ''Kistemes''), is a 244 km (152 mile) long river in Romania (169 km; 105 mi.) and Serbia (75 km; 47 mi.). It rises in the Poiana Ruscă Mountai ...
into the
Tisa The Tisza, Tysa or Tisa, is one of the major rivers of Central and Eastern Europe. Once, it was called "the most Hungarian river" because it flowed entirely within the Kingdom of Hungary. Today, it crosses several national borders. The Tisza be ...
. The southern border is bounded by the final, navigable section of the Begej before it empties into the Tisa (followed by the
Belgrade Belgrade ( , ;, ; Names of European cities in different languages: B, names in other languages) is the Capital city, capital and List of cities in Serbia, largest city in Serbia. It is located at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers a ...
-Zrenjanin road), while to the north are the vast
Ečka fishpond Ečka ( sr-cyr, Ечка, ; hu, Écska) is a village located in the Zrenjanin municipality, in the Central Banat District of Serbia. It is situated in the autonomous province of Vojvodina. Name and history In Serbian, the village is known as ...
s, the largest in Serbia and second largest in Europe. Entire bog belongs to the municipality of Zrenjanin.


Settlements and human history

Even though it is in the triangle of large cities Belgrade-Novi Sad-Zrenjanin (largest cities in Serbia, Vojvodina and Serbian Banat, respectively), all settlements in the vicinity of Carska bara are smaller ones, ranging from 1,500 to 6,000 inhabitants. The closest settlements are
Perlez Perlez (; hu, Perlasz) is a village located in the Zrenjanin municipality, in the Central Banat District of Serbia. It is situated in the Autonomous Province of Vojvodina. The village has a Serb ethnic majority (87.29%) and its population number ...
, in southern corner, on the Begej, and
Belo Blato Belo Blato ( sr-cyr, Бело Блато; sk, Biele Blato or ; hu, Erzsébetlak, , , or ) is a village located in the Zrenjanin municipality, in the Central Banat District of Serbia. It is situated in the autonomous province of Vojvodina. The ...
, east of the bog, on the southern shore of Ečka fishpond. In the north are the villages of
Lukino Selo Lukino Selo ( sr-Cyrl, Лукино Село, hu, Lukácsfalva, german: Lukasdorf) is a village located in the Zrenjanin municipality, in the Central Banat District of Serbia. It is situated in the Autonomous Province of Vojvodina. The village h ...
, Ečka and
Stajićevo Stajićevo (; hu, Óécska) is a village in Serbia. It is located in the Zrenjanin municipality, in the Central Banat District, Vojvodina province. The village has a Serb ethnic majority (96.29%) and its population numbering 1,999 people (2002 ...
, while
Knićanin Knićanin (, ) is a village in Serbia. It is located in the Zrenjanin municipal area, in the Banat region (Central Banat District), Vojvodina province. Its population is 2,034 (2002 census) and most of its inhabitants are ethnic Serbs (97.39%) ...
is southwest of it. Town of Titel is right across the bridge on the Tisa. Gallery of the painting colony of "Ečka" is located on the northern tip of the bog. Human history in the area surrounding Carska bara goes back to 4,000 years BC, with uncovered mounds near
Mužlja Mužlja ( sr-cyr, Мужља; hu, Muzslya) is a neighborhood of the Zrenjanin city in Serbia. Formerly, it had been a separate village that joined with Zrenjanin in 1981. Name In Serbian the neighborhood is known as ''Mužlja'' or Мужља ...
(''Batka'') and Titel (''Kalvarija''). According to legend, the bog (''carska bara'', Serbian for "imperial bog"), was named after
Attila Attila (, ; ), frequently called Attila the Hun, was the ruler of the Huns The Huns were a nomadic people who lived in Central Asia, the Caucasus, and Eastern Europe between the 4th and 6th century AD. According to European traditio ...
, king of the Huns, but other sources claim that the bog was named that way because of the Austrian emperors which used to hunt in the area. Count
László Lukács László Lukács de Erzsébetváros (24 November 1850, Zalatna – 23 February 1932) was a Hungarian politician who served as Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Hungary from 1912 to 1913. His father was Dávid Lukács, who was descendants of ...
owned some land in the area, and often invited members of the Austrian royal family to hunt. Among them were princes Rudolf and Franz Ferdinand.


Geography

The entire, physically connected wetland of Carska Bara covers an area of and the entire system consists of three ponds (Carska, Perleska and Tiganjica) connected by the long canal of Old Begej (''Stari Begej''), a former
distributary A distributary, or a distributary channel, is a stream that branches off and flows away from a main stream channel. Distributaries are a common feature of river deltas. The phenomenon is known as river bifurcation. The opposite of a distributar ...
of the
Begej The Bega or Begej ( ro, Bega; sr, / ; german: Bega; hu, Béga, formerly ''Kistemes''), is a 244 km (152 mile) long river in Romania (169 km; 105 mi.) and Serbia (75 km; 47 mi.). It rises in the Poiana Ruscă Mountai ...
river. It extends along the Begej (approximately from its ). Until 1964, the Old Begej was regular part of the Bega river, navigable, naturally flowing river. That year, the digging of a new Bega canal began, which became part of the cast
Danube–Tisa–Danube Canal Danube–Tisa–Danube Canal (DTD) ( sr, Канал Дунав-Тиса-Дунав, Kanal Dunav-Tisa-Dunav) is a canal system in Serbia. It is a unique hydro-engineering system for flood control and hydrotechnical management, amelioration, fo ...
system. Former river became an oxbow lake, named Old Begej and in time became muddy and marshy. Wetland consists of many smaller bodies of water: rivers, canals, lakes and ponds, covered with
reed bed A reedbed or reed bed is a natural habitat found in floodplains, waterlogged depressions and estuaries. Reedbeds are part of a succession from young reeds colonising open water or wet ground through a gradation of increasingly dry ground. As ...
s, willow thickets and rushes and it is known for its color diversity. The central, lake section is known for its blue, clear water, while the surrounding salt marshes have white and yellow waters, all within green woods. Previously, Carska Bara consisted of smaller and larger swamps, but in time it basically turned into a complex of Begej's meanders which are naturally getting shortened and narrowed and the bog gets more and more inclined compared to the river bed. The Begej river is deep in this area, while the bog itself is only deep.


Biology


Flora

Some areas of water are covered in pond algae. Many rare and autochthonous plants live in the wetland, but also many imported ones. Some representatives of the water plants include
water fern Water fern is a common name for several plants and may refer to: * Salviniales, an order of aquatic ferns * '' Austroblechnum lanceolatum'', syn. ''Blechnum chambersii'', lance water fern * '' Austroblechnum patersonii'', syn. ''Blechnum patersonii' ...
,
European white water lily ''Nymphaea alba'', the white waterlily, European white water lily or white nenuphar , is an aquatic flowering plant in the family Nymphaeaceae. It is native to North Africa, temperate Asia, Europe and tropical Asia (Jammu and Kashmir). Descrip ...
, Nuphar lutea,
lax-flowered orchid ''Anacamptis laxiflora'' (lax-flowered orchid, loose-flowered orchid, or green-winged meadow orchid) is a species of orchid. It has a wide distribution in Europe and Asia as far north as in Germany, and is found in wet meadows with alkaline soil. ...
and water farina. Meadow plants are represented by '' Plumbago'', '' Achillea'',
wormwood Wormwood may refer to: Biology * Several plants of the genus ''Artemisia'': ** ''Artemisia abrotanum'', southern wormwood ** '' Artemisia absinthium'', common wormwood, grande wormwood or absinthe wormwood ** ''Artemisia annua'', sweet wormwood o ...
, mallow and
meadow sage ''Salvia pratensis'', the meadow clary or meadow sage, is a species of flowering plant in the family Lamiaceae, native plant, native to Europe, western Asia and northern Africa. The Latin Binomial nomenclature, specific epithet ''pratensis'' me ...
, and marsh plants by flowering rush, yellow flag iris, water mannagrass, common sweet flag, bulrush, reed, etc. Altogether, there are some 500 plant species registered in the reserve, including rare or protected species, like
yellow pheasant's eye ''Adonis vernalis'', known variously as pheasant's eye, spring pheasant's eye, yellow pheasant's eye and false hellebore, is a perennial flowering plant in the buttercup family Ranunculaceae. It is found in dry meadows and steppes in Eurasia. Mor ...
, St John's wort, '' Orchis'' and buttercup. The colonies of old willow groves are preserved, so as the forests of the
black poplar ''Populus nigra'', the black poplar, is a species of cottonwood poplar, the type species of section ''Aigeiros'' of the genus ''Populus'', native to Europe, southwest and central Asia, and northwest Africa.Flora Europaea''Populus nigra''/ref> ...
and
narrow-leafed ash ''Fraxinus angustifolia'', the narrow-leaved ash, is a species of '' Fraxinus'' native to central and southern Europe, northwest Africa, and southwest Asia.Flora Europaea''Fraxinus angustifolia''/ref>Rushforth, K. (1999). ''Trees of Britain and ...
. There are rare specimens of pedunculate oak. Once abundant, the oak was heavily cut, but its number began to grow after the area was protected in 1955. The main invasive species is the water caltrop. It anchors to the bottom of the ponds with its spikes and grows extremely fast, draining large amounts of oxygen from the water. The avoid the massive dying of the fish, the plant is being regularly cut from the bottom.


Fauna

In Carska Bara and nearby Begej river there are 24 different species of fish. The muddy waters are ideal for northern pike. There are also colonies of zanders, which thrives in different waters (clearer, rocky, sandy). They remained from the period before 1964, when the Old Begej was a "live river", used for navigation. After being transformed into the oxbow lake, the population of zander remained in it, adapting to the new environment. Amphibians ( fire salamander,
edible frog The edible frog (''Pelophylax'' kl. ''esculentus'') is a species of common European frog, also known as the common water frog or green frog (however, this latter term is also used for the North American species ''Rana clamitans''). It is used ...
) and reptiles ( sand lizard,
European pond terrapin The European pond turtle (''Emys orbicularis''), also called commonly the European pond terrapin and the European pond tortoise, is a species of long-living freshwater turtle in the family Emydidae. The species is endemic to the Western Palearc ...
) are also abundant. Despite being a marshland, in Carska Bara there is a noticeable absence of mosquitos which local biologists attribute to the large number of frogs. Both frogs and tadpoles are feasting of mosquito larvae, while those who manage to hatch are prayed upon by the frogs and 18 species of dragonflies. There are also numerous frogs and snakes. Terrapins are strictly protected and considered the "cleaners" of the bog, as none of the other animals (birds, snakes) are not eating dead fish. Carska Bara is the best known for its abundant bird life, the first ornithological exploration of which began in the late 19th century. There are 240 bird species recorded in the area. There are thriving colonies of herons ( grey heron, little egret,
black-crowned night heron The black-crowned night heron (''Nycticorax nycticorax''), or black-capped night heron, commonly shortened to just night heron in Eurasia, is a medium-sized heron found throughout a large part of the world, including parts of Europe, Asia, and N ...
) and cormorants (including pygmy cormorant). Other species include buzzards,
Eurasian sparrowhawk The Eurasian sparrowhawk (''Accipiter nisus''), also known as the northern sparrowhawk or simply the sparrowhawk, is a small bird of prey in the family Accipitridae. Adult male Eurasian sparrowhawks have bluish grey upperparts and orange-barred ...
s, common spoonbills, western marsh harrier,
Montagu's harrier Montagu's harrier (''Circus pygargus'') is a migratory bird of prey of the harrier family. Its common name commemorates the British naturalist George Montagu. Taxonomy The first formal description of Montagu's harrier was by the Swedish na ...
,
red-breasted goose The red-breasted goose (''Branta ruficollis'') is a brightly marked species of goose in the genus ''Branta'' from Eurasia. It is currently classified as vulnerable by the IUCN. Taxonomy and etymology The red-breasted goose is sometimes placed ...
, osprey, greylag goose,
stork Storks are large, long-legged, long-necked wading birds with long, stout bills. They belong to the family called Ciconiidae, and make up the order Ciconiiformes . Ciconiiformes previously included a number of other families, such as herons an ...
and woodcock etc. Some 110 bird species are migratory. Herons are considered the most important for the ecosystem. They nest in large colonies which are periodically moved from one locality within the reserve to another, based on the abundance of fish and its successful spawning. The number of herons vary greatly from season to season. By the late 20th century, their number differed from several hundred nests to over 10,000. All 10 species of herons living in Serbia can be found in Carska Bara, so herons became a symbol of the wetland. Some 50,000 greater white-fronted geese spend December-January each year in Carska Bara on their voyage from Siberia to the
South Europe Southern Europe is the southern region of Europe. It is also known as Mediterranean Europe, as its geography is essentially marked by the Mediterranean Sea. Definitions of Southern Europe include some or all of these countries and regions: Alba ...
, via the
Carpathian Mountains The Carpathian Mountains or Carpathians () are a range of mountains forming an arc across Central Europe. Roughly long, it is the third-longest European mountain range after the Urals at and the Scandinavian Mountains at . The range stretches ...
. Other birds include
whiskered tern The whiskered tern (''Chlidonias hybrida'') is a tern in the family Laridae. The genus name is from Ancient Greek ''khelidonios'', "swallow-like", from ''khelidon'', "swallow". The specific ''hybridus'' is Latin for ''hybrid''; Peter Simon Palla ...
, rails,
swan Swans are birds of the family (biology), family Anatidae within the genus ''Cygnus''. The swans' closest relatives include the goose, geese and ducks. Swans are grouped with the closely related geese in the subfamily Anserinae where they form t ...
s, white-tailed eagles, ferruginous ducks, 8 species of herons, gulls and pelicans, while the cormorant colonies have 3,000 members. It is suggested that such a large number of birds actually prevents the bog from freezing during the winter. Swans in the reserve show aggressive behavior, attacking nests of all other birds, except for the migratory greater white-fronted geese. Numerous birds, including kingfishers and cormorants, try to feed on the nearby Ečka fishponds. Cormorants especially reduce the fish population, so the birds are being chased away from the fishponds with the gas cannons. It was estimated that cormorants alone would eat over two tons of fish daily, if not chased away. The cormorants colony in Carska Bara has been described as the "horror movie set", with the trees dried from their droppings, with the strong smell of ammonia spreading around. White-tailed eagles are on top of the food chain in the wetland. They are also the largest birds, with a wingspan of and weight of . They are known to pray on herons. In 2022, osprey and snake eagle were spotted in the reserve. Variety of mammals include otters, European ground squirrel,
wildcats The wildcat is a species complex comprising two small wild cat species: the European wildcat (''Felis silvestris'') and the African wildcat (''F. lybica''). The European wildcat inhabits forests in Europe, Anatolia and the Caucasus, while the ...
,
bank vole The bank vole (''Myodes glareolus'') is a small vole with red-brown fur and some grey patches, with a tail about half as long as its body. A rodent, it lives in woodland areas and is around in length. The bank vole is found in much of Europe an ...
and also
wild hog The feral pig is a domestic pig which has gone feral, meaning it lives in the wild. They are found mostly in the Americas and Australia. Razorback and wild hog are Americanisms applied to feral pigs or boar-pig hybrids. Definition A feral p ...
, roe deer,
red fox The red fox (''Vulpes vulpes'') is the largest of the true foxes and one of the most widely distributed members of the Order (biology), order Carnivora, being present across the entire Northern Hemisphere including most of North America, Europe ...
,
European brown hare The European hare (''Lepus europaeus''), also known as the brown hare, is a species of hare native to Europe and parts of Asia. It is among the largest hare species and is adapted to temperate, open country. Hares are herbivorous and feed mainly ...
,
muskrat The muskrat (''Ondatra zibethicus'') is a medium-sized semiaquatic rodent native to North America and an introduced species in parts of Europe, Asia, and South America. The muskrat is found in wetlands over a wide range of climates and habitat ...
, bats, hedgehog, mole, weasel, hamster, European polecat, etc. The otters are under the strict protection. Wild hogs are also protected but in time their number greatly increased as they have no natural enemies in Carska Bara. They began to roam outside of the reserve, greatly damaging crops, especially in Belo Blato village. Residents sued the state for damages but lost. Instead, the state granted them permission to kill a quota of animals, if caught in their fields.


Nature Reserve

Special Nature Reserve "Carska Bara" was proclaimed in 1955, with its status revised in 1995. It covers an area of , wider than Carska Bara itself. It was declared a
Ramsar site A Ramsar site is a wetland site designated to be of international importance under the Ramsar Convention,8 ha (O) *** Permanent 8 ha (P) *** Seasonal Intermittent < 8 ha(Ts) **
oxbow lake An oxbow lake is a U-shaped lake or pool that forms when a wide meander of a river is cut off, creating a free-standing body of water. In South Texas, oxbows left by the Rio Grande are called '' resacas''. In Australia, oxbow lakes are call ...
Old Begej and the all three ponds: Tiganjica, Perleska, Carska, covering an area of . Hotel "Sibila" was open at the entrance into the reserve. The visiting season lasts from May to October and the number of visitors in limited to 15,000 per year. Navigation is forbidden on the ponds, but it is allowed along the Old Begej.


Controversies


Fish ponds

Condition of the reserve gradually worsened since 2001. Fish farm "Еčka" was privatized and sold to the "Mirotin" company from Vrbas, and the maintenance of the reserve stopped almost immediately. Additionally, the fish ponds of "Еčka“ extends directly to the north from the Carska Bara and are considered the greatest polluters of the bog. City of Zrenjanin formed a special ecological institute "Natural reserves" and since 2014 has been asking the state government to change the decision on the reserve's management, claiming that it is not logical that the greatest polluter administers the reserve, that Vojvodina's provincial government provided funds for the dredging of the canals but that hasn't been done and that managers of the company openly stated that they have neither the experts nor the interest to work on the preservation of the bog. In August 2017 the touristic cruise by the boat on the bog was suspended as the canals got filled with silt, due to the lack of maintenance, which prevents the navigation. "Еčka" disputed the claims, alleging that they take care of the reserve, maintain it properly and feed the pond with the fresh water from their fish ponds and pumping it from the Tisza, which is some to the west. They also claim that the boating is temporarily closed due to the low water level caused by the big drought of 2017. Local environmentalists maintain that the drought is not the only reason. They claim that fishpond, though obliged by the law, doesn't monitor the oscillations of the water. In spring, the fishpond should fill the Carska Bara with the fresh water, allowing for the spawning to occur, but they don't do that. However, during fall, they discharge the polluted wastewater into the pond. By this, they reduce the spawning, block the natural fluctuation of the water and fills the pond with mud. That way, the delicate flora and fauna change quickly, rapidly dying out. In August 2019, local environmentalist groups asked again for the change of the caretaker of the reserve as, after two decades of neglect, the situation is bad and only getting worse. The private owner of the fish ponds is also given the task of maintaining of the reserve by the state. As the reserve is being buried under the silt and sludge, in the near future Carska Bara will transform from wetland into steppe. The Stari Begej is already not navigable during a dry season, the only confirmed nesting ground of wild geese is destroyed, the reed and willows are already growing on the deposited silt, while some 50 bird species moved out of the reserve. There is also a problem with the local population and attempts at illegal fishing in the reserve, as the fishing is forbidden. The caretaker significantly reduced number of rangers.


2018 fire

Caused by stubble burning set on 14 October 2018, which is prohibited but fairly common at the end of the harvesting season, a massive fire broke out on 15 October fuelled by the strong wind. It spread to when reeds, grass and undergrowth along the Bega river were caught by fire. The most heavily affected was the Tiganjica section. Though the fire was extinguished by 16 October, with continuous smoldering in the next days, several hundred of hectares of the reserve were burned. There was no concern for the bird life, though, as most of the migratory birds already moved out, and also there were no chicks because of the late season. The only scenic lookout in the reserve, which was made of wood, was burned to the ground. An 81-year old man was later arrested for causing the fire. Minister of Environmental Protection
Goran Trivan Goran Trivan ( sr-cyr, Горан Триван, born 1962) is a Serbian politician. He served as the Minister of Environmental Protection since 29 June 2017 until October 2020. He is a member of the Socialist Party of Serbia since its foundation. ...
said that in the end a total of of the reserve was caught by fire. He added that there are some artificial ways of revitalizing the damaged terrain. Only in 2022 the area began to visibly recover and birds returned in greater number.


2020s

After almost 30 years of power wrestling between the environmentalists and authorities, the legal status of the reserve was changed in 2022, and the "Natural Reserves" institute from Zrenjanin became a caretaker. The institute was formed specifically to administer the reserve. This allowed the revitalization of the area, which degraded in time. Parts of the reserve became "significantly degraded", Tiganjica pond dried out, while Perleska pond reduced to 30% of its original size. Plans include dredging of the Old Bega river on its entire course, so it will become navigable for touristic boats again. The water pumps for extinguishing further fires were placed through the reserve. Discharging of the wastewater from the fishponds was aborted, though it would take several years for the ecosystem to revitalize, and the ranger service was enhanced. Construction of the system of scenic viewpoints, observation towers, children's playgrounds and touristic facilities will start in 2022.


References


External links


More information about Carska Bara - Serbian only official site www.carskabara.rs
{{Protected areas of Serbia Lakes of Serbia Ramsar sites in Serbia Nature reserves in Serbia Zrenjanin