
The spectator shoe, also known as co-respondent shoe, is a style of low-heeled,
oxford
Oxford () is a City status in the United Kingdom, cathedral city and non-metropolitan district in Oxfordshire, England, of which it is the county town.
The city is home to the University of Oxford, the List of oldest universities in continuou ...
,
semi-brogue or
full brogue constructed from two contrasting colours, typically having the toe and heel cap and sometimes the lace panels in a darker colour than the main body of the shoe. This style of shoe dates from the nineteenth century but reached the height of popularity during the 1920s and 1930s.
Description
Common colour combinations include a white shoe body with black, brown or tan toe and heel caps, but other colours can be used. The spectator is typically an all leather shoe, but can be constructed using a canvas, mesh or suede body. The spectator was originally constructed of willow calf leather and white buck or reverse calf suede. The white portion was sometimes made from a mesh material, for better ventilation in hot weather.
Saddle shoe
The
saddle shoe, another style of two-tone oxford shoe, can be distinguished from the spectator shoe by noting the saddle shoe's plain toe and distinctive, saddle-shaped decorative panel placed mid foot.
Origin of name
John Lobb, the famous English footwear maker, claimed to have designed the first spectator shoe as a
cricket
Cricket is a Bat-and-ball games, bat-and-ball game played between two Sports team, teams of eleven players on a cricket field, field, at the centre of which is a cricket pitch, pitch with a wicket at each end, each comprising two Bail (cr ...
shoe in 1868.
In the 1920s and 1930s in England, this style was considered too flamboyant for a gentleman, and therefore was called a tasteless style. Because the style was popular among
lounge lizards and
cads, who were sometimes associated with
divorce
Divorce (also known as dissolution of marriage) is the process of terminating a marriage or marital union. Divorce usually entails the canceling or reorganising of the legal duties and responsibilities of marriage, thus dissolving the M ...
cases, a nickname for the style was
co-respondent shoe, a pun on the colour arrangement on the shoe, and because "co-respondent" is the legal description of a third party caught ''
in flagrante delicto'' with the guilty party in a case of
adultery.
Wallis Simpson was famed for wearing this style, although it was said that she was an adulteress and that it was
Edward VIII
Edward VIII (Edward Albert Christian George Andrew Patrick David; 23 June 1894 – 28 May 1972), later known as the Duke of Windsor, was King of the United Kingdom and the Dominions of the British Empire, and Emperor of India, from 20 January ...
who acted the part of co-respondent.
In popular culture
In
J. G. Ballard's 1984
novel
A novel is an extended work of narrative fiction usually written in prose and published as a book. The word derives from the for 'new', 'news', or 'short story (of something new)', itself from the , a singular noun use of the neuter plural of ...
and
Steven Spielberg
Steven Allan Spielberg ( ; born December 18, 1946) is an American filmmaker. A major figure of the New Hollywood era and pioneer of the modern blockbuster, Spielberg is widely regarded as one of the greatest film directors of all time and is ...
's 1987
film ''Empire of the Sun'', protagonist Jim Graham (
Christian Bale) covets a fellow prisoner's spectator
golf shoes. After the prisoner dies, he is given the shoes as a gift from Dr. Ransome (
Nigel Havers).
In the 1992 film ''
Hoffa'',
Jack Nicholson
John Joseph Nicholson (born April 22, 1937) is an American retired actor and filmmaker. Nicholson is widely regarded as one of the greatest actors of the 20th century, often playing rebels fighting against the social structure. Over his five-de ...
and
Danny DeVito
Daniel Michael DeVito Jr. (born November 17, 1944) is an American actor and filmmaker. He gained prominence for his portrayal of the taxi dispatcher Louie De Palma in the television series ''Taxi (TV series), Taxi'' (1978–1983), which won him ...
were supplied with spectators from Wisconsin shoemaker
Allen Edmonds (specifically the Broadstreet model).
In the 1920s-set crime drama, ''
Boardwalk Empire'', the character Enoch "Nucky" Thompson, can be seen wearing tan-and-black spectators, especially in the opening credits sequence.
In
Vikram Seth
Vikram Seth (born 20 June 1952) is an Indian people, Indian novelist and poet. He has written several novels and poetry books. He has won several awards such as Padma Shri, Sahitya Akademi Award, Pravasi Bharatiya Samman, WH Smith Literary Awar ...
's novel and television adaptation ''
A Suitable Boy,'' Haresh Khanna is a manager of a shoe factory who is disparaged for his 'co-respondent shoes'.
In ''
Doctor Who
''Doctor Who'' is a British science fiction television series broadcast by the BBC since 1963. The series, created by Sydney Newman, C. E. Webber and Donald Wilson (writer and producer), Donald Wilson, depicts the adventures of an extraterre ...
'', the
Seventh Doctor (
Sylvester McCoy) wore a pair of spectator shoes.
In the 2020 film ''
Tenet'', Neil can be seen wearing spectator shoes.
In
Kate Atkinson's 2022 novel ''
Shrines of Gaity'', set in 1926 London, the character Landor wears co-respondent shoes.
See also
*
List of shoe styles
Notes
References
*
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External links
{{Footwear
Shoes
1920s fashion
1930s fashion
1940s fashion