Somport or Col du Somport, known also as the Aspe Pass or Canfranc Pass, (el. 1632 m.) is a
mountain pass
A mountain pass is a navigable route through a mountain range or over a ridge. Since many of the world's mountain ranges have presented formidable barriers to travel, passes have played a key role in trade, war, and both Human migration, human a ...
in the central
Pyrenees on the border of
France and
Spain. Its name is derived from the Latin ''Summus portus''. It was one of the most popular routes for soldiers, merchants, and
pilgrims to the tomb of St. James following the
route from Arles to cross the Pyrenees. They travelled from
Oloron-Sainte-Marie,
Pyrénées-Atlantiques, France, via Somport to
Aragon
Aragon ( , ; Spanish and an, Aragón ; ca, Aragó ) is an autonomous community in Spain, coextensive with the medieval Kingdom of Aragon. In northeastern Spain, the Aragonese autonomous community comprises three provinces (from north to sou ...
, Spain.
Military history
There is recorded evidence of both the
Vandals and the
Visigothic invaders having used the relatively easy entrance to Spain from France in the fifth century. The
Roman road
Roman roads ( la, viae Romanae ; singular: ; meaning "Roman way") were physical infrastructure vital to the maintenance and development of the Roman state, and were built from about 300 BC through the expansion and consolidation of the Roman Re ...
constructed here, known as the
Via Tolosana, was also used by
Muslim
Muslims ( ar, المسلمون, , ) are people who adhere to Islam, a monotheistic religion belonging to the Abrahamic tradition. They consider the Quran, the foundational religious text of Islam, to be the verbatim word of the God of Abrah ...
invaders in the eighth century in their attempt to conquer France.
The pass was fortified in the 16th century by the
Habsburg
The House of Habsburg (), alternatively spelled Hapsburg in Englishgerman: Haus Habsburg, ; es, Casa de Habsburgo; hu, Habsburg család, it, Casa di Asburgo, nl, Huis van Habsburg, pl, dom Habsburgów, pt, Casa de Habsburgo, la, Domus Hab ...
s in fear of French invasion, which however would not occur until the
Peninsular War and the arrival of
Napoleon
Napoleon Bonaparte ; it, Napoleone Bonaparte, ; co, Napulione Buonaparte. (born Napoleone Buonaparte; 15 August 1769 – 5 May 1821), later known by his regnal name Napoleon I, was a French military commander and political leader who ...
's general
Louis Gabriel Suchet in 1808. He was later followed by Colonel
Leonard Morin
Leonard or ''Leo'' is a common English masculine given name and a surname.
The given name and surname originate from the Old High German ''Leonhard'' containing the prefix ''levon'' ("lion") from the Greek ΛÎων ("lion") through the Latin ''Le ...
who records in his Memoirs of the 5th Regiment (1812–13) both the danger of the pass and the horrible existence of the population of
Canfranc. The French would leave by the same road after their defeat by General
Francisco Espoz y Mina
Francisco Espoz Ilundáin (17 June 1781 – 24 December 1836), being better known as Francisco Espoz y Mina, was a Spanish guerrilla leader and general.
Biography
He was born in Idocin in Navarre. His father, Juan Esteban Espoz y Mina, and hi ...
in 1814.
The
Fort du Portalet
The Fort du Portalet is a fort in the Aspe Valley in Bearn, French Pyrenees, built from 1842 to 1870.
The fort, built by order of Louis Philippe I, guards the border of the Pyrenees and protects access to the Col du Somport. Fort du Portalet ...
is a fort in the
Aspe valley north of the present Spain-France border which guards access to the Col du Somport. It was built by order of
Louis Philippe I to guard the border of the Pyrenees. Installed against a cliff overlooking the Gave d'Aspe, it faces the path of Masts. It was begun in 1842 and finished in 1870, replacing an earlier structure a further north. During WWII
Léon Blum
André Léon Blum (; 9 April 1872 – 30 March 1950) was a French socialist politician and three-time Prime Minister.
As a Jew, he was heavily influenced by the Dreyfus affair of the late 19th century. He was a disciple of French Socialist le ...
,
Édouard Daladier,
Paul Reynaud,
Georges Mandel and
Maurice Gamelin were interned under the Vichy regime. After the war
Philippe Pétain was imprisoned in the fort from 15 August to 16 November 1945.
[Williams, 2005, p.512-3]
Pilgrimage history
This was arguably the most popular Pyrenaic pass for pilgrims on the
Way of St. James
The Camino de Santiago ( la, Peregrinatio Compostellana, "Pilgrimage of Compostela"; gl, O Camiño de Santiago), known in English as the Way of St James, is a network of pilgrims' ways or pilgrimages leading to the shrine of the Twelve Apostle ...
until the pacification of
Navarran and
Basque bandits in the 12th century made the relatively easier
Roncesvalles road safer for pilgrims. There is little of interest at the pass, except for the modern ''Ermita del Pilar'' (1992) and of course the natural beauty of the mountains. From this point to
Santiago de Compostela it is approximately 840 km.
Modern history
The
Pau–Canfranc railway linking
Canfranc, Spain with
Pau, France opened to traffic in 1928, connected via the
Somport Railway Tunnel
Somport or Col du Somport, known also as the Aspe Pass or Canfranc Pass, (el. 1632 m.) is a mountain pass in the central Pyrenees on the border of France and Spain. Its name is derived from the Latin ''Summus portus''. It was one of the most pop ...
which was completed in 1915, and terminating in Spain at the
Canfranc International Railway Station. The railway line was closed due to a freight-train accident on 27 March 1970.
The long
Somport Road Tunnel was opened on 7 February 2003, at a cost of €160 million to Spain and €91.5 million for France. The building of the road tunnel was controversial, particularly in France, with those opposing it claiming that it would effectively destroy the natural beauty of the
Aspe Valley (
Vallée d'Aspe
The Aspe Valley is a valley in the French part of the Pyrenees, department of Pyrénées-Atlantiques.
Geography
It is one of the three valleys located in the historic region of upper Béarn, along with the Ossau Valley to the east and Barétou ...
), preferring full reopening of the Pau-Canfranc rail line. A group of protesters permanently squatted at the abandoned railway station near Cette-Eygun, at the foot of the pass on the French side. Among them was the charismatic Eric Pététin, who had waged a protracted legal campaign against the authorities, causing delay in the tunnel's construction.
By 1998 protesters were resorting to non-violent direct action, when construction was well under way. Their mascot was the rare
Pyrenean Brown Bear, allegedly still to be found in the valley, but close to extinction, and alleged further threatened by the tunnel project. The last protesters were finally evicted in October 2005, some 20 years after campaigning against the tunnel had begun.
On 3 June 2003 French deputy
Jean Lassalle interrupted the
French National Assembly
The National Assembly (french: link=no, italics=set, Assemblée nationale; ) is the lower house of the bicameral French Parliament under the Fifth Republic, the upper house being the Senate (). The National Assembly's legislators are known a ...
by singing the "love song"
Se Canto, protesting against Minister of the Interior
Nicolas Sarkozy
Nicolas Paul Stéphane Sarközy de Nagy-Bocsa (; ; born 28 January 1955) is a French politician who served as President of France from 2007 to 2012.
Born in Paris, he is of Hungarian, Greek Jewish, and French origin. Mayor of Neuilly-sur-Se ...
's announcement of the moving of 23
gendarmes guarding the Somport Road Tunnel to the town of
Oloron-Sainte-Marie from neighbouring
Urdos, where Sarkozy commented that their wives had probably been "bored". Lassalle viewed this as offensive to the residents of Urdos.
Sports
There is a
cross-country ski trail that goes 35 km around the pass, shared by Spain and France. Part of the route belongs to the Spanish
ski resort of
Candanchú.
See also
*
List of highest paved roads in Europe
*
List of mountain passes
References
{{Authority control
Mountain passes of Nouvelle-Aquitaine
Mountain passes of Aragon
Mountain passes of the Pyrenees
Landforms of Pyrénées-Atlantiques
France–Spain border crossings
Transport in Nouvelle-Aquitaine