Sir Paul Smith
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Sir Paul Brierley Smith (born 5 July 1946) is a British
fashion designer Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture. The term implies a look defined by the fashion in ...
. His reputation is founded on his designs for men's clothing, but his business has expanded into other areas as well. Smith was made a
Royal Designer for Industry Royal Designer for Industry is a distinction established by the British Royal Society of Arts (RSA) in 1936, to encourage a high standard of industrial design and enhance the status of designers. It is awarded to people who have achieved "sustained ...
in 1991. His eponymous fashion company was founded in 1970 and has expanded into over 70 countries, selling its products via standalone stores, departments in high-end stores or malls, along with airport terminals, as well as the e-commerce section of its international website. Some of his brand's stores are recognized for their uniqueness and eccentricity, including the much-photographed vibrant, fluorescent pink flagship store in
Los Angeles Los Angeles ( ; es, Los Ángeles, link=no , ), often referred to by its initials L.A., is the largest city in the state of California and the second most populous city in the United States after New York City, as well as one of the world' ...
.


Early life

Smith was born in 1946 in Beeston, Nottinghamshire, England, the son of Harold Smith, and is the youngest of three children. One of his early ambitions was to become a professional cyclist. He left school at the age of 15 to work in a Nottingham clothing warehouse, while practising cycling outside of work hours. He cycled to and from work until the age of 17, when he was in a major cycling accident that put him in hospital for close to six months. During his recovery, friends inspired him to enter the world of art and fashion. Smith has regularly referenced cycling in his work over the years. He started to take classes in tailoring and eventually began working with a Savile Row tailor, Lincroft Kilgour.


Career

Smith opened his own shop called Paul Smith Vêtements Pour Homme in Nottingham in 1970, which sold established clothing labels, alongside pieces that Smith had designed. The store was just 3 square metres and was located at 6
Byard Lane Byard Lane is a pedestrianised shopping street in the city centre of Nottingham, England located between Fletcher Gate and Bridlesmith Gate. History Byard Lane has existed since the Middle Ages when it was known as Walleonelane, Walloonlane or ...
in Nottingham. In 1976, Smith travelled to
Paris Paris () is the capital and most populous city of France, with an estimated population of 2,165,423 residents in 2019 in an area of more than 105 km² (41 sq mi), making it the 30th most densely populated city in the world in 2020. S ...
to showcase his first men's collection, which featured a mix of casual and semi-formal wear. After that the Paul Smith brand continued to grow and he opened his flagship London store in 1979 on Floral Street in Covent Garden, London. 'Paul Smith Women' his first womenswear collection was launched in 1993, after reports of women coming into his stores buying smaller sizes to wear themselves. The first Japan store opened in Tokyo in 1984, growing over the years to 165 stores across the country. Smith opened his first shop in
New York New York most commonly refers to: * New York City, the most populous city in the United States, located in the state of New York * New York (state), a state in the northeastern United States New York may also refer to: Film and television * '' ...
on
Fifth Avenue Fifth Avenue is a major and prominent thoroughfare in the borough of Manhattan in New York City. It stretches north from Washington Square Park in Greenwich Village to West 143rd Street in Harlem. It is one of the most expensive shopping stre ...
in 1987. The company now has four shops in the state, the flagship on Greene Street as well as
Williamsburg Williamsburg may refer to: Places *Colonial Williamsburg, a living-history museum and private foundation in Virginia *Williamsburg, Brooklyn, neighborhood in New York City *Williamsburg, former name of Kernville (former town), California *Williams ...
,
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and Brookfield Place. In 1993, Smith took over a 'workwear' clothing company R. Newbold (established in 1885) and incorporated many of their designs into his new collection. His childrenswear collection started in 1990 with the launch of a one-off collection for boys, including casual and tailored pieces. In 2010, Smith launched 'Paul Smith Junior' as a seasonal collection which often included remakes of his adult collections. In 1995, the
Design Museum The Design Museum in Kensington, London exhibits product, industrial, graphic, fashion, and architectural design. In 2018, the museum won the European Museum of the Year Award. The museum operates as a registered charity, and all funds generat ...
exhibited 'True Brit', a show marking 25 years of his business. The show then went on to
Glasgow Glasgow ( ; sco, Glesca or ; gd, Glaschu ) is the most populous city in Scotland and the fourth-most populous city in the United Kingdom, as well as being the 27th largest city by population in Europe. In 2020, it had an estimated popul ...
for the 'Festival of Design' and then moved to his hometown of Nottingham and put on display in Nottingham Castle. Smith published his first book, entitled ''You Can Find Inspiration in Everything'' in 2001. The brand launched its ecommerce site in 2004. In 2013, Smith designed and made a school tie for Beeston Fields Primary School in Nottingham. In 2016, Smith's second book, ''Paul Smith's Cycling Scrapbook'' was released, which documents a personal history of the sport he is very passionate about. In January 2016, Smith combined his men's and women's fashion shows, showcasing during Paris Fashion Week. In 2019, Smith made a cameo appearance in the film '' Men in Black: International'', he also designed the suits in the film. His company remains independent, the majority owned by Smith.


Awards

Smith has won numerous awards over the years, including: *
Freedom Freedom is understood as either having the ability to act or change without constraint or to possess the power and resources to fulfill one's purposes unhindered. Freedom is often associated with liberty and autonomy in the sense of "giving on ...
of the City of Nottingham, February 1997. * Won Designer of the Year four years in a row at the GQMen of the Year awards. *Along with
Anya Hindmarch Anya Susannah Hindmarch, (; born 1968) is an English fashion accessories designer who founded an eponymous company. Career Hindmarch was born into an entrepreneurial family and attended New Hall School, an independent school in Chelmsford, E ...
, Paul Smith was awarded the ''
Condé Nast Condé Nast () is a global mass media company founded in 1909 by Condé Montrose Nast, and owned by Advance Publications. Its headquarters are located at One World Trade Center in the Financial District of Lower Manhattan. The company's media ...
Traveller'' Innovation and Design Awards, in 2010. * Outstanding Achievement Award,
British Fashion Awards The Fashion Awards, known as the British Fashion Awards until 2016, is an annual ceremony established in the United Kingdom in 1989 to showcase both British and international individuals and businesses who have made the most outstanding contribu ...
2011. *Paul Smith was awarded an Honorary Fellowship from the
British Institute of Interior Design The British Institute of Interior Design (BIID) is a professional organisation for commercial and residential interior designers in Britain. The current president of the institute is Lester Bennett. Establishment Founded in 1965 as the Interior De ...
. *He was named one of GQ's 50 best dressed British men in 2015. Smith was appointed
Commander of the Order of the British Empire The Most Excellent Order of the British Empire is a British order of chivalry, rewarding contributions to the arts and sciences, work with charitable and welfare organisations, and public service outside the civil service. It was established o ...
(CBE) in the
1994 New Year Honours The New Year Honours 1994 were appointments by most of the sixteen Commonwealth realms of Queen Elizabeth II to various orders and honours to reward and highlight good works by citizens of those countries, and honorary ones to citizens of other c ...
for services to fashion. He was
knighted A knight is a person granted an honorary title of knighthood by a head of state (including the Pope) or representative for service to the monarch, the Christian denomination, church or the country, especially in a military capacity. Knighthood ...
in the
2000 Birthday Honours The Queen's Birthday Honours were announced on 19 June 2000 to celebrate the Queen's Official Birthday in the United Kingdom,United Kingdom: Australia (12 June), New Zealand (13 June),New ZealandThe Queen's Birthday Honours 2000(13 June 2000), '' ...
and appointed
Member of the Order of the Companions of Honour The Order of the Companions of Honour is an order of the Commonwealth realms. It was founded on 4 June 1917 by King George V as a reward for outstanding achievements. Founded on the same date as the Order of the British Empire, it is sometimes ...
(CH) in the
2020 Birthday Honours The Queen's Birthday Honours for 2020 are appointments by some of the 16 Commonwealth realms of Queen Elizabeth II to various orders and honours to reward and highlight good works by citizens of those countries. The Birthday Honours are awarded ...
for services to fashion.


Partnerships and other business pursuits

Smith has been involved in multiple collaborations and partnerships over the years, including:


1997

Smith designed a
Mini The Mini is a small, two-door, four-seat car, developed as ADO15, and produced by the British Motor Corporation (BMC) and its successors, from 1959 through 2000. Minus a brief hiatus, original Minis were built for four decades and sold during ...
, that was produced in a limited edition of 1,800 cars.


2002

Smith worked with Italian furniture designer Cappellini to create a small homeware collection.


2003

Smith's first collaboration with Maharam, the US textile brand, originally used in one of his suit designs, the two continue to work together on new ranges.


2005

Smith teamed up with motorbike manufacturer Triumph, restyling the Bonneville T100 bike. Smith redesigned the Lasonic i931 boombox, giving it a white look with Smith's trademark multicolour look. For the 60th anniversary of Penguin Classics, Paul Smith was asked to choose and redesign one cover, he chose
Lady Chatterley's Lover ''Lady Chatterley's Lover'' is the last novel by English author D. H. Lawrence, which was first published privately in 1928, in Italy, and in 1929, in France. An unexpurgated edition was not published openly in the United Kingdom until 1960, w ...
by
DH Lawrence David Herbert Lawrence (11 September 1885 – 2 March 1930) was an English writer, novelist, poet and essayist. His works reflect on modernity, industrialization, sexuality, emotional health, vitality, spontaneity and instinct. His best-k ...
.


2006

Smith and
Mercian Cycles Mercian Cycles is a custom bicycle manufacturer based in Derby, England.Kolin and de la Rosa, 1979, pp. 60-68 The firm was founded by Tom Crowther and Lou Barker in 1946 and named after the ancient kingdom of Mercia. Early frames built by Mercia ...
collaborated on a series of bicycles. Smith designed the chairs in screen 4 at
Broadway Cinema Broadway Cinema is an independent cinema in the city of Nottingham, England in the United Kingdom. It is located in the Hockley area. In 2009, it was rated as one of the best cinemas in the world by Total Film magazine. History The site now ...
,
Nottingham Nottingham ( , East Midlands English, locally ) is a city status in the United Kingdom, city and Unitary authorities of England, unitary authority area in Nottinghamshire, East Midlands, England. It is located north-west of London, south-east ...
.


2007

Smith began working with the UK-based boutique cycle clothing retailer, Rapha. Smith designed a range of cycle clothing in association with Rapha, including a jersey to celebrate the rare start of the Tour de France in London.


2009

Smith was the third designer, following Jean-Paul Gaultier, to redesign a bottle for
Evian Evian ( , ; , stylized as evian) is a French company that bottles and commercialises mineral water from several sources near Évian-les-Bains, on the south shore of Lake Geneva. It produces over 2 billion plastic bottles per year. Today, Evia ...
water. Paul Smith provided suits for the
Manchester United Manchester () is a city in Greater Manchester, England. It had a population of 552,000 in 2021. It is bordered by the Cheshire Plain to the south, the Pennines to the north and east, and the neighbouring city of City of Salford, Salford to ...
team.


2010

Smith worked with Burton Snowboards including adding his signature stripe to boards and apparel.


2011

Smith designed four limited edition prints to mark the release of ''
Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy ''Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy'' is a 1974 spy novel by British author John le Carré. It follows the endeavours of taciturn, aging spymaster George Smiley to uncover a Soviet mole in the British Secret Intelligence Service. The novel has receive ...
''.


2012

Smith joined Leica to design a limited edition
Leica X2 The Leica X2 is a digital large sensor compact camera announced by Leica Camera on 10 May 2012. It is the successor of the Leica X1, and improves on the earlier model with a higher resolution sensor, improved autofocus and an optionally availabl ...
camera. Curated by the Isle of Man Post Office, Smith designed a set of stamps to mark the launch of the London
Olympics The modern Olympic Games or Olympics (french: link=no, Jeux olympiques) are the leading international sporting events featuring summer and winter sports competitions in which thousands of athletes from around the world participate in a var ...
. Smith joined boot-maker
John Lobb John Lobb (27 December 1829 – 17 January 1895) was an English shoemaker and the founder of the company John Lobb Bootmaker. He founded his first successful company making boots for gold diggers in Australia. Early life John Lobb was born in Tywar ...
to create a series of
Oxford Oxford () is a city in England. It is the county town and only city of Oxfordshire. In 2020, its population was estimated at 151,584. It is north-west of London, south-east of Birmingham and north-east of Bristol. The city is home to the ...
,
derby Derby ( ) is a city and unitary authority area in Derbyshire, England. It lies on the banks of the River Derwent in the south of Derbyshire, which is in the East Midlands Region. It was traditionally the county town of Derbyshire. Derby gai ...
and loafers.


2013

Smith was the official designer of the T-shirt for the
David Bowie David Robert Jones (8 January 194710 January 2016), known professionally as David Bowie ( ), was an English singer-songwriter and actor. A leading figure in the music industry, he is regarded as one of the most influential musicians of the ...
album ' The Next Day'. Smith designed the leaders' jersey for Giro d'Italia including the
Maglia Rosa The general classification in the Giro d'Italia is the most important classification of the Giro d'Italia, which determines who is the overall winner. It is therefore considered more important than secondary classifications as the points classif ...
.


2014

Smith started a collaboration with Anglepoise, reimagining their Type 75 lamp as Edition One, he has since gone on to creating multiple editions.


2015

Smith designed a series of T-shirts in collaboration with the release of
David Bowie David Robert Jones (8 January 194710 January 2016), known professionally as David Bowie ( ), was an English singer-songwriter and actor. A leading figure in the music industry, he is regarded as one of the most influential musicians of the ...
's final album ★ (
Blackstar ''Blackstar'' is an American animated science fantasy television series, produced in 1981 by Lou Scheimer and Norm Prescott for Filmation. The series was Filmation's second fantasy epic, the first being '' The Freedom Force'', a segment of ''T ...
). Smith worked with Kask for the first time to design their 'Protone' aero helmet. In 2018 a second helmet was released. The first collaboration between Paul Smith & Caran d'Ache, launched 10 colours of their '849' pen. They went on to work together again in 2016.


2016

Collaborated with the wine merchant, Berry Bros & Rudd on a limited edition range of bottles. Smith collaborated with
Land Rover Land Rover is a British brand of predominantly four-wheel drive, off-road capable vehicles, owned by multinational car manufacturer Jaguar Land Rover (JLR), since 2008 a subsidiary of India's Tata Motors. JLR currently builds Land Rovers ...
, to design a bespoke Defender. Smith designed a new version of the cactus-shaped coat stand by Italian furniture designers
Gufram Gufram is an Italian furniture manufacturer known for avant-garde, conceptual, witty, and Pop-art influenced designs; the unconventional use of industrial materials; collaborations with well known architects and designers; and the contributio ...
. Edition Three of the Paul Smith & Anglepoise Collaboration was launched. The second collaboration with Caran d'Ache was launched, adding 8 new colours to the collection.


2018

For the 120th anniversary of Globe-Trotter, Smith collaborated with the company by redesigning their 20" trolley case, this was first showcased at the Salone del Mobile. Celebrating 30 years of New Balance's 576 sneaker (trainer), Smith redesigned with his iconic stripe design, along with a series of footballs and football boot. In tribute to his close friend Tony Gross, the company collaborated with Cutler & Gross on a limited edition collection of eyewear for his spring/summer 2019 show in Paris. Smith worked with James Turner of Sports Purpose to cover a 1965
Porsche 911 The Porsche 911 (pronounced ''Nine Eleven'' or in german: Neunelfer) is a two-door 2+2 high performance rear-engined sports car introduced in September 1964 by Porsche AG of Stuttgart, Germany. It has a rear-mounted flat-six engine and origin ...
with multicoloured stripes, which went on to compete at
Le Mans Classic The Le Mans Classic is a biennial historic racing, vintage sports car racing, sports car event held on the grounds of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, created by Peter Auto and Richard Mille, and associated with Automobile Club de l'Ouest (ACO). It began ...
and
Goodwood Festival of Speed The Goodwood Festival of Speed is an annual motorsports festival featuring modern and historic motor racing vehicles taking part in a hillclimbing, hill climb and other events, held in the grounds of Goodwood House, West Sussex, England, in l ...
.


2021

Smith designed a
Mini Electric The Mini Electric (marketed as the Mini Cooper SE in all markets outside the United Kingdom) is a Battery electric vehicle, battery electric version of the Mini Hatch#F56, third generation Mini Hatch that was launched in 2020. The drivetrain u ...
using sustainable principles, with recycled and natural materials for example cork. Smith's Mini Strip was designed to break "the unwritten law that even small cars have to be shiny, polished luxury products."


References


External links

* {{DEFAULTSORT:Smith, Paul 1946 births Articles containing video clips Clothing brands of the United Kingdom Commanders of the Order of the British Empire English businesspeople in fashion English chief executives English fashion designers Eyewear brands of the United Kingdom Fashion accessory brands High fashion brands Knights Bachelor Living people Luxury brands Members of the Order of the Companions of Honour Menswear designers People from Beeston, Nottinghamshire Shoe brands