Shurijo

was a Ryukyuan ''gusuku'' castle in Shuri, Okinawa Prefecture, Japan. Between 1429 and 1879, it was the palace of the Ryukyu Kingdom, before becoming largely neglected. In 1945, during the Battle of Okinawa, it was almost completely destroyed. After the war, the castle was re-purposed as a university campus. Beginning in 1992, the central citadel and walls were largely reconstructed on the original site based on historical records, photographs, and memory. In 2000, Shuri Castle was designated as a World Heritage Site, as a part of the Gusuku Sites and Related Properties of the Kingdom of Ryukyu. On the morning of 31 October 2019, the main courtyard structures of the castle were again destroyed in a fire.

History

The date of construction is uncertain, but it was clearly in use as a castle during the Sanzan period (1322–1429). It is thought that it was probably built during the Gusuku period, like many other castles of Okinawa. When King Shō Hashi unified the three principalities of Okinawa and established the Ryukyu Kingdom, he used Shuri as a residence. At the same time, Shuri flourished as the capital and continued to do so during the Second Shō dynasty.

For 450 years from 1429, it was the royal court and administrative center of the Ryukyu Kingdom. It was the focal point of foreign trade, as well as the political, economic, and cultural heart of the Ryukyu Islands. According to records, the castle burned down several times, and rebuilt each time. During the reign of Shō Nei, samurai forces from the Japanese feudal domain of Satsuma seized Shuri on 6 May 1609. The Japanese withdrew soon afterwards, returning Shō Nei to his throne two years later, and the castle and city to the Ryukyuans, though the kingdom was now a vassal state under Satsuma's suzerainty and would remain so for roughly 250 years.

Decline

In the 1850s, Commodore Perry, twice forced his way into Shuri Castle, but was denied an audience with the king both times. In 1879, the kingdom was annexed by the Empire of Japan and the last king, Shō Tai, was compelled to move to Tokyo, and in 1884, he was “elevated” to the rank of marquess in the Japanese aristocracy. Subsequently, the castle was used as a barracks by the Imperial Japanese Army. The Japanese garrison withdrew in 1896, but not before having created a series of tunnels and caverns below it.

In 1908, Shuri City bought the castle from the Japanese government; however, it did not have funding to renovate it. In 1923, thanks to Japanese architect Ito Chuta, ''Seiden'' survived demolition after being re-designated a prefectural Shinto shrine known as Okinawa Shrine. In 1925, it was designated as a national treasure. Despite its decline, historian George H. Kerr described the castle as "one of the most magnificent castle sites to be found anywhere in the world, for it commands the countryside below for miles around and looks toward distant sea horizons on every side." Kerr, George H. (2000). ''Okinawa: The History of an Island People'' (revised ed.). Boston: Tuttle Publishing. p. 50.

World War II

During World War II, the Imperial Japanese Army had set up its headquarters in the castle underground, and by early 1945 had established complex lines of defense and communications in the regions around Shuri, and across the southern part of the island as a whole. The Japanese defenses, centered on Shuri Castle, held off the massive American assault from 1 April through the month of May 1945. Beginning on 25 May, and as the final part of the Okinawa campaign, the American battleship ''Mississippi'' shelled it for three days and by 27 May it was ablaze. But the Japanese had conducted a skillful retreat days before, abandoning Shuri, and forcing the Americans to start a new battle again in the south. US Marine and Army units secured the castle against little resistance. On 29 May, Maj. Gen. Pedro del Valle—commanding the 1st Marine Division—ordered Captain Julian D Dusenbury of Company A, 1st Battalion, 5th Marines to capture the castle, which represented both strategic and psychological blows for the Japanese and was a milestone in the campaign.

Post-war

After the war, the University of the Ryukyus was established in 1950 on the castle site, where it remained until 1975. In 1958, ''Shureimon'' was reconstructed and, starting from 1992, the 20th anniversary of reversion, the main buildings and surrounding walls of the central castle were reconstructed. At present, the entire area around the castle has been established as "Shuri Castle Park". In 2000, along with other ''gusuku'' and related sites, it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. However, only remnants such as stone walls and building foundations extant before 1950 are officially designated as World Heritage. In addition, 2000 saw the Shureimon gate at Shuri Castle featured on the new 2000 yen note, which entered circulation to commemorate the new millennium and the 26th G8 summit, which was held in Okinawa.

2019 fire

In the morning of 31 October 2019, a large fire broke out and burned down the ''Seiden'', the main hall, and also the ''Hokuden'' and ''Nanden'', adjacent buildings to the north and south. A security alarm went off around 2:30 a.m., and a call to emergency services was placed around 10 minutes later. The ''Seiden'', ''Hokuden'', ''Nanden'' and ''Bandokoro'' were completely destroyed. According to domestic news sources, "Six castle buildings occupying some in total were gutted." The fire was put out around 1:30 p.m.

Okinawa Police later told domestic broadcaster NHK that a security guard who checked on the alarm found that the main entrance doors to the ''Seiden'' were closed. When the guard unlocked the shutter and went inside, the interior was already filled with smoke. After police initially ruled out arson, authorities said that the fire was likely caused by an electrical fault after a burned electrical distribution board was found in the northeast side of where the ''Seiden'' had stood. Police investigations later revealed that the lighting panel had no signs of short circuiting, though a surveillance camera did capture flashing light in the ''Seiden'' main hall shortly before and after the fire.

The fire was the fifth time that Shuri Castle has been destroyed following previous incidents in 1453, 1660, 1709 and 1945. Okinawa Governor Denny Tamaki said after the fire that Shuri Castle is "a symbol of the Ryukyu Kingdom, an expression of its history and culture", and has vowed to rebuild it. Japan's Chief Cabinet Secretary Yoshihide Suga said that Shuri Castle is "an extremely important symbol of Okinawa". The Japanese Government is considering supplemental appropriations to support restoration work. UNESCO also said it would be ready to assist with Shuri Castle's reconstruction. A crowdfunding campaign set up by Naha City officials for the rebuilding of Shuri Castle had received over $3.2 million in donations as of 6 November 2019.

As of 10 February 2020, rebuilding efforts to restore the destroyed sections of Shuri Castle were underway. In May 2021, a scale replica of the castle measuring one twenty fifth of the size of the actual structure was recreated at the Tobu World Square theme park in Kinugawa Onsen."Fire-hit Shuri Castle recreated in miniature form at theme park,"
Kyodo News, 3 May 2021, retrieved 26 July 2021

Construction

Unlike Japanese castles, Shuri Castle was greatly influenced by Chinese architecture, with functional and decorative elements similar to that seen primarily in the Forbidden City. The gates and various buildings were painted in red with lacquer, walls and eaves colorfully decorated, and roof tiles made of Goryeo and later red Ryukyuan tiles, and the decoration of each part heavily using the king's dragon. Given that the ''Nanden'' and ''Bandokoro'' were both used for reception and entertainment of the Satsuma clan, a Japanese style design was used here only.

Ryukyuan elements also dominate. Like other ''gusuku'', the castle was built using Ryukyuan limestone, being surrounded by an outer shell which was built during the Second Shō dynasty from the second half of the 15th century to the first half of the 16th century. Similarly, ''Okushoin-en'' is the only surviving garden in a ''gusuku'' in the Ryukyu Islands, which made use of the limestone bedrock and arranged using local cycads.

The current renovation is designed with a focus on the castle's role as a cultural or administrative/political center, rather than one for military purposes. The buildings that had been restored as original wooden buildings (and subsequently destroyed in the 2019 fire) were only in the main citadel. The ''Seiden'' was rebuilt using wood from Taiwan and elsewhere after rituals blessing the removal of large trees from mountains in the Yanbaru region of Okinawa took place. Other buildings, such as the ''Nanden'' or ''Hokuden'' were only restored as facades, with interiors made using modern materials such as steel and concrete. Old walls remain in part, and were excavated and incorporated during the construction of the new castle wall, forming the only surviving external remains of the original castle.

Sites of interest

Due to its central role in Ryukyuan political and religious life, Shuri is composed of and surrounded by various sites of historical interest. The castle complex itself can be divided into three main zones, namely a central administrative area (including the ''Seidan'' and ''Ura''), an eastern living and ceremonial space (behind the ''Seidan'') called the ''Ouchibara'' (literally "inside field"), and a southwestern ceremonial area including the ''Kyo-no-uchi'' (literally "inside capital").

Buildings

All of the buildings located at Shurijo are modern reconstructions, the originals being lost in 1945.
* – located south of the ''Una'', and paired with the ''Nanden'', originally the main reception area, currently housing a museum. The two were built between 1621 and 1627.
* – the "North Hall", located north of the ''Una'', originally a judicial and administrative center where ''Sapposhi'' (Chinese envoys) were also received, currently housing a museum and gift-shop. Originally called the ''Nishi-no-udun'' or ''Giseiden'', it was built around 1506–1521.
* – located east of the ''Shicha-nu-una'', originally the government office responsible for the genealogy of noble families, currently housing a tearoom and stage for Ryukyuan dance shows.
* – a work area for high-officials (such as the ''Kinju-gashira'', ''Kinju-yaku'', and ''Hisa''), currently a passageway between the ''Nanden'' and ''Seiden''.
* – private area for the king, his wife, and mother, south of the ''Seiden''. Originally dated to at least 1671, and rebuilt by 1715, it connected the ''Nanden'' to ''Oku-shoin''. Inner rooms included the ''Suzuhiki'' and ''Ochane-zume''.
* – the "South Hall", formerly an entertainment area for Satsuma envoys, currently an exhibition space.
* – a sitting room for the king linked to the ''Seidan''. Built in 1765, it was later extended south in 1874.
* – unknown function. Located north of the ''Kushino-una''.
* – rest house for the king, south of the ''Seiden'', originally dated to at least 1715.
* – anteroom located south of the ''Nanden'' for royal princes, and guest/official reception area.
* – the "Main Hall", also called the State Palace, was situated to the east of the ''Una'', but facing west towards China, and contains the throne room and royal living and ceremonial areas. The western facade includes two 4.1 meter high ''Dai-Ryu Chu'' (Great Dragon Pillars), crafted of sandstone from Yonaguni Island, and symbols of the king. The left dragon is called ''Ungyou'', and the right is ''Agyou'', and these motifs are replicated throughout the building including the roof. Other decorative elements include ''botan'' (peony flowers), ''shishi'' (golden dragons), and ''zuiun'' (clouds). The ''Shichagui'' (first floor) was where the king personally conducted affairs of state and ceremonies. The ''Usasuka'' was the lower area in front of where the king sat, with the ''Hira-usasuka'' (side-areas) flanking either side. The second floor included the ''Ufugui'', the area for the queen and her attendants, and the ''Usasuku'', the upper main throne room of the king. Behind it are the ''Osenmikocha'', chambers where the king would pray daily. According to historical records, the ''Seiden'' was burned down and rebuilt four times (most recently in 1992), and was also used as the prayer hall for a Shinto shrine between 1923-1945.
* – study and office of the king, south of the ''Nanden'', where Chinese/Satsuma officials were entertained when visiting.
* – cultural/exhibition center, gift shop, and restaurant area.
* – unknown function, but now housing the Bridge of Nations Bell replica.
* – immediately east of the ''Seiden'', it was the regular sleeping area for unmarried princesses, and the location of the ascension ceremony.
* – paired building with the ''Keizuza'', which dealt with the goods and materials used inside the castle.
* – royal food preparation area, connected to the ''Kugani-udun'', dated to at least 1715. Attendants included the ''Hocho'' (chef) and ''Agama'' (female servants).

Courtyard (~una)

* – the living area immediately behind the ''Seiden'', surrounded by the ''Nyokan-kyoshitsu'' and ''Yuinchi''.
* – the lower area between the ''Houshinmon'' and ''Koufukumon''.
* - the central and primary reception and ceremonial area of the castle in front of the ''Seiden''.

Gates (~mon)

* – a gate leading south of the ''Kushino-una'', leading to the ''Ouchibara''. Called ''Akata-ujo'' prior to the construction of ''Keiseimon''.
* – the first ceremonial gate to Shurijo, built around 1427 by King Shō Hashi, it was demolished in 1907.
* – the easternmost gate leading to the ''Shinbyoden''.
* – also known as ''Kimihokori-ujo'', it is the main citadel entrance to the ''Una'', currently the ticket check gate. Although the period of construction is unknown, the stone balustrades were completed in 1562.
* – built around 1477–1500 during the reign of King Shō Shin, the gate was burned down during the Battle of Okinawa in 1945 and restored in 1974. It is the first main gate to the castle. ''Kankai'' (歓会), which means "welcome", the gate was named to express welcome to the investiture envoys who visited Shuri as representatives of the Chinese Emperor.
* – a southwest gate south of ''Bifukumon'', also called ''Akata-ujo''. Normally a side-gate, it was used by the Crown Prince when officially ascending the throne. The door was restored in 1998.
* – a trade gate usually blocked with stones, but opened for movement of building and wall repair materials.
* – the entrance into the ''Shicha-nu-una'', currently the ticket purchase gate. Historically, the eastern wing of the building housed ''Okumiza'', the deputy's office to intervene in disputes between noble families. The west wing housed the ''Jishaza'', the magistrate responsible for supervising the places of worship.
* – the northern gate mostly used by women, also known as ''Hokoriujo hokori'', meaning "Pleasant Pride". It was built during the reign of King Shō Shin.
* – a gate housing a ''roukoku'' (water clock) in the turret, also called ''Kagoise-ujo''. Visitors would dismount their horses or palanquins here.
* – the citadel gate north of the ''Seiden'', also called ''Onaka-ujo'', leading to the ''Ouchibara''.
* – the second ceremonial gate built between 1527 and 1555, and now the main gate to the complex.
* – leads directly to ''Kyukeimon''. It was used as a service entrance to the ''Ouchibara''.
* – literally "splendid and auspicious spring gate", located near ''Ryuhi'' and probably built around 1470.

Shrines (~utaki) and temples (~ji)

* – a shrine built to house ''Housatsuzou-kyou'' (Buddhist scriptures) gifted by Sejo, the 7th Joseon king of Korea.
* – a Buddhist temple for the royal family in the lower precincts north of the citadel, constructed in 1492.
* – a small private shrine near the ''Okushoin''.
* – a large open ritual area where prayers by the ''Kikoe-ōgimi (chifi-ufujin)'' (high-priestess) were made.
* – a sacred stone "gate" to the left of ''Shureimon'' was erected in 1519, where the king offered prayers for order throughout the kingdom and safety at the outset of his travels.
* – a walled worship space, supposedly "created by the gods", inside the ''Shicha-nu-una''. It is the theme of many of the songs and prayers recorded in '' Omoro Sōshi (Okinawan: umuru sooshi)'', Ryukyu's oldest music collection.

Other features

* – the eastern lookout point of the innermost wall.
* – a moat created around ''Benzaitendo''.
* – a stone bridge behind ''Enkaku-ji''.
* – a modern lookout tower overlooking Naha.
* – a sundial in front of ''Roukokumon'' and next to the ''Tomoya'', which kept time in Shuri from around 1739 until 1879.
* – a private garden behind the ''Okushoin''.
* – the residential area of the citadel to the east of the ''Seiden'', forbidden to men except those of the royal family.
* – a natural spring in front of ''Zuisenmon'', with a dragon headed spout.
* – a man-made pond, built in 1427 and located north of ''Shureimon''.
* – built in 1799, the royal gardens and villa are a rare, historically valuable example of Ryukyuan landscape gardening.
* – the easternmost area of the inner citadel where the body of a king was temporarily held.
* – the restored royal tombs of the Second Shō dynasty, located adjacent to Shurijo, where 17 kings, along with their queens and royal children, are entombed.

Ceremonies

Religious

Shurijo operated not only as a base of political and military control, it was also regarded as a central religious sanctuary of the Ryukyuan people. Formerly there were 10 '' utaki'' (shrines) within the castle and the large area on the south-western side of the citadel was occupied by a sanctuary called ''Kyo-no-uchi''. This was a place where natural elements, such as trees and natural limestone rocks were utilized. Although ''Noro'' (priestesses) carried out a number of nature rituals (as also sometimes occurs in Shinto), the contents of the rituals and the layout of the inner part of the sacred areas remain unclear. After the war, limited religious observance continued on the site, mostly with the placement of incense sticks on places formerly considered sacred. However, restoration of the castle stopped general access to these sites, and for this reason, "Shuri Castle was resurrected, but it was destroyed as a place of worship".

Investiture

Contacts between the Ryukyu Islands and China began in 1372 and lasted five centuries until the establishment of Okinawa Prefecture in 1879. When a new king commenced, the Emperor of China sent officials to attend the investiture ceremony at the castle. Through this ceremony, the kingdom reiterated its ties with China, both politically, commercially, and culturally. This custom also granted the new monarch official international recognition within east Asia.

The Chinese delegation included about 500 people, including a ''Sapposhi'' (ambassador) and a representative, both appointed by senior officials of the emperor. The envoys departed from Beijing and proceeded by land to Fuzhou in Fujian Province, where they sailed to the Ryukyu Islands, sometimes via Kumejima, on ''Ukanshin'' ("Crown Ships").

Among the first tasks of the Chinese delegation was a ''Yusa'' (religious ceremony) in memory of the late king. Words of condolence from the emperor were spoken in ''Sōgen-ji'' in Naha, and (after 1799) envoys were then received in ''Shikina-en''. Then the investiture ceremony took place in the ''Una'', where two platforms were erected between the ''Nanden'' and ''Seiden'', called ''Kettei'', reserved for the envoys, and ''Sendokudai''. The imperial official recited the formula for the appointment of the new king and bowed deeply.

Later, inside the castle, there was a "Feast of Investiture," followed by a "Mid-autumn Banquet", accompanied by songs and dances. This banquet was held on a temporary platform opposite the ''Hokuden'', a platform on which the Imperial envoys stood. On the shore of ''Ryutan'' and in the castle, the "Choyo Banquet", during which a boat race and musical performances took place, was also held in the presence of the delegation. Two successive farewell banquets were then held opposite ''Hokuden'', and finally a banquet at ''Tenshikan'', where the king gave the Chinese delegation gold presents as an august sign for their return.

In popular culture

In the 2002 computer game, '' Deadly Dozen: Pacific Theater'', the last mission takes place while assaulting Shurijo. In the 2008 video game, '' Call of Duty: World at War'', the last American mission ("Breaking Point") also takes place in the castle, where US Marines make their final push to take Okinawa. In the game, main characters in the plot die alongside several US forces as the player proceeds upwards under mortar and small arms fire to ''Ura'', the courtyard of the ruined castle, which was targeted by US airstrikes to soften Japanese forces entrenched there. Also the Call of Duty World at War multiplayer map ("Courtyard") takes place at Shuri Castle.

Gallery

File:Shurijo damaged.png, Prewar ''Una'' and buildings before destruction
File:Naha_Shuri_Castle20s5s3200.jpg, Shuri Castle
File:Naha Shuri Castle50s3s4500.jpg, ''Seiden'' - front facade
File:Naha Okinawa Japan Shuri-Castle-05a.jpg, ''Usasuku'' - the upper royal throne room
File:Naha Shuri Castle01s3200.jpg, ''Suimuikan''
File:Naha Shuri Castle02s5s3200.jpg, ''Shureimon''
Image:Kankaimon 070705.jpg, ''Kankaimon''
File:Naha Shuri Castle11s3s4592.jpg, ''Zuisenmon''
File:Ryuhi Spring in Shuri Castle.jpg, ''Ryuhi''
File:Suimui-Utaki in Shichanu-Una Square of Shuri Castle 2.JPG, ''Suimi-utaki''
File:Sasunoma House of Shuri Castle 2.JPG, ''Sasunoma''
File:Garden of Shuri Castle 4.JPG, ''Kyo-no-uchi''
File:首里城城壁から海方向を望む - panoramio.jpg, Wall near ''Kyukeimon'', with ''Ryutan'' in the distance
File:Benzaiten-dō, Shurijō Park (17174940310).jpg, ''Benzaitendo'', with ''Enganchi'' in the foreground.
File:Japanese commemorative coin04.jpg, 500 yen coin, issued to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the reversion of Okinawa, with Shuri Castle depicted on the obverse side of the coin
File:Shuri Castle main gate and charred roof two days after the 2019 fire.png, Shuri Castle's main gate and main hall's charred roof two days after the 2019 fire

See also

* List of Important Cultural Properties of Japan (Okinawa: structures)
*List of Historic Sites of Japan (Okinawa)
* Conservation Techniques for Cultural Properties
*List of Special Places of Scenic Beauty, Special Historic Sites and Special Natural Monuments
*Tourism in Japan

References

Further reading

*
*
* Oleg Benesch, Ran Zwigenberg
Shuri Castle and Japanese Castles: A Controversial Heritage
''The Asia-Pacific Journal. Japan Focus'' 17, 24, 3 (Decembre 2019, 15)
*

External links

Shuri Castle Park首里城公園　空からみた首里城 (Shuri Castle Park as seen from the sky)
YouTube




Comprehensive Database of Archaeological Site Reports in Japan, Nara National Research Institute for Cultural Properties
Japanese
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{{Authority control

Residential buildings completed in 1992
Buildings and structures in Japan destroyed during World War II
Castles in Okinawa Prefecture
Historic Sites of Japan
Naha
World Heritage Sites in Japan
Building collapses in 2019