Shell cordovan, cordovan, or cordwain is a type of
tanned leather
Leather is a strong, flexible and durable material obtained from the tanning (leather), tanning, or chemical treatment, of animal skins and hides to prevent decay. The most common leathers come from cattle, sheep, goats, equine animals, buffal ...
commonly used in
high-end shoemaking. Cordovan is an
equine material made from the
superficial fascia (or ''shell'') of the lower layers of the
hide on the
rump of a horse. The material derives its name from the city of
Cordoba, Spain, which was long known as a center of leather production. It is a difficult and expensive material to make, and in the late 19th and early 20th century was mostly used for
razor strops to hone razors in barber shops. More recently it has been increasingly used for shoes, wallets, and watch straps due to its visual appeal and exceptional durability. It is also used in archery to protect the fingers. It is smooth and durable, ideal for a
finger tab. Shell cordovan has a unique non-creasing characteristic. Because it is made of connective tissue, it is smooth and lacks the pebbled effect of leather derived from the outer skin.
Production
After removal from the horse, the hide is measured from the root of the tail forward on the
backbone. The hide is cut at right angles to the backbone and the resulting pieces termed a "front" (the forward part) and the "butt". The term cordovan leather applies to the product of both the tanned fronts and tanned butts, but is especially used in connection with the term
galoshes, meaning the vamps or
boot-fronts cut from the shell of the butt.
After being tanned, leather from the "front" is typically used in the fabrication of
gloves, or blackened, to be used in the tops of shoes. The "butt", after tanning, is passed through a splitting-machine which removes the grain, or
hair
Hair is a protein filament that grows from follicles found in the dermis. Hair is one of the defining characteristics of mammals.
The human body, apart from areas of glabrous skin, is covered in follicles which produce thick terminal and ...
side, revealing what is termed the "shell". The close fibers of the shell result in a smooth and pliable material used mostly in the manufacture of
shoes.
Other uses include watch straps and the manufacture of finger protection tabs for
archery
Archery is the sport, practice, or skill of using a Bow and arrow, bow to shooting, shoot arrows.Paterson ''Encyclopaedia of Archery'' p. 17 The word comes from the Latin ''arcus'', meaning bow. Historically, archery has been used for hunting ...
where it is prized for its toughness, longevity, and protective qualities.
References
External links
Shell cordovan making
{{Leather
Leathermaking
Leather