Self-belay
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Self-belay is the use of self-locking
belaying Belaying is a variety of techniques climbers use to create friction within a climbing system, particularly on a climbing rope, so that a falling climber does not fall very far. A climbing partner typically applies tension at the other end of th ...
equipment by a single person while
rock climbing Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and ...
or
mountaineering Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, a ...
. Typically, belaying involves a two-person team: a climber ascends, while a belayer takes in their rope slack, ready to catch and arrest their fall; when self-belaying, the climber plays both roles. In
mountaineering Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, a ...
, a climber can employ a self-belay with an
ice axe An ice axe is a multi-purpose hiking and climbing tool used by mountaineers in both the ascent and descent of routes that involve snow, ice, or frozen conditions. Its use depends on the terrain: in its simplest role it is used like a walking ...
to prevent a slide down a snow-covered slope. To use an ice axe to self-belay, a climber will hold the axe by the head in the climber's uphill hand. As the climber moves up the slope, the climber will push the shaft of the axe several inches into the snow with every other step. If the axe is set firmly enough, it will aid in preventing a slip from becoming a fall. If a slip occurs, the climber presses down on the head of the axe causing the shaft to sink deeper into the snow, anchoring the climber. If this method is unsuccessful, the climber may fall and slide down the slope having to rely on a technique called a
self-arrest Self-arrest is a technique employed in mountaineering in which a climber who has fallen and is sliding down a snow or ice-covered slope arrests the slide by themselves without recourse to a rope or other belay system. Self-arrest can be performed ...
. In
rock climbing Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and ...
, self-belaying is also called
rope soloing Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing is a form of solo climbing (i.e. performed alone without a climbing partner), but unlike with free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber u ...
.


External links


General principles for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope


Climbing techniques Mountaineering techniques {{Climbing-stub