Sean Sherman (born 1974)
is an
Oglala Lakota
The Oglala (pronounced , meaning "to scatter one's own" in Lakota language) are one of the seven subtribes of the Lakota people who, along with the Dakota people, Dakota, make up the Sioux, Očhéthi Šakówiŋ (Seven Council Fires). A majority ...
Sioux chef, cookbook author,
forager
A forager is a person who collects edible plants or fungi for consumption. Urban foragers may collect in city parks, private lands, and sidewalks. Urban foraging has gained in popularity in the 21st century, as people share their knowledge, experi ...
, and promoter of
indigenous cuisine Indigenous cuisine is a type of cuisine that is based on the preparation of cooking recipes with products obtained from native species of a specific area.
Indigenous cuisine is prepared using indigenous ingredients of vegetable or animal origin i ...
.
Sherman founded the indigenous food education business and caterer The Sioux Chef, as well as the nonprofit North American Traditional Indigenous Food Systems. He received a
James Beard Foundation
The James Beard Foundation is a New York City-based national non-profit culinary arts organization named in honor of James Beard, a prolific food writer, teacher, and cookbook author, who was also known as the "Dean of American Cookery." The prog ...
Leadership Award and his 2017 cookbook, ''
The Sioux Chef's Indigenous Kitchen'', won the 2018 James Beard Award for Best American Cookbook. In 2021 he opened a restaurant, Owamni, in Minneapolis, Minnesota that serves dishes using ingredients present in North America before European colonization. Owamni won the 2022
James Beard Foundation
The James Beard Foundation is a New York City-based national non-profit culinary arts organization named in honor of James Beard, a prolific food writer, teacher, and cookbook author, who was also known as the "Dean of American Cookery." The prog ...
Award for Best New Restaurant.
Early life
Sherman was born in 1974 and grew up on his grandparents' ranch on the
Pine Ridge reservation in South Dakota.
He hunted and foraged from an early age, recalling his grandfather giving him a shotgun on his seventh birthday.
He grew up eating many government commodity foods
such as cereal, shortening, and canned hash, which he cites as the norm he seeks to depart from.
He attended
Black Hills State University
Black Hills State University (BHSU) is a public university in Spearfish, South Dakota. Close to 4,000 students attend classes at its campus in Spearfish, at sites in Rapid City and Pierre, and through distance offerings. Enrollment comes from ...
.
His grandparents were fluent in
Lakota
Lakota may refer to:
*Lakota people, a confederation of seven related Native American tribes
*Lakota language, the language of the Lakota peoples
Place names
In the United States:
*Lakota, Iowa
*Lakota, North Dakota, seat of Nelson County
*Lakota ...
.
Early career
Sherman got his first restaurant job washing dishes at 13, soon moving onto
the line
Line most often refers to:
* Line (geometry), object with zero thickness and curvature that stretches to infinity
* Telephone line, a single-user circuit on a telephone communication system
Line, lines, The Line, or LINE may also refer to:
Arts ...
.
He spent a summer working for the
US Forest Service
The United States Forest Service (USFS) is an agency of the U.S. Department of Agriculture that administers the nation's 154 national forests and 20 national grasslands. The Forest Service manages of land. Major divisions of the agency inc ...
in the
Black Hills
The Black Hills ( lkt, Ȟe Sápa; chy, Moʼȯhta-voʼhonáaeva; hid, awaxaawi shiibisha) is an isolated mountain range rising from the Great Plains of North America in western South Dakota and extending into Wyoming, United States. Black Elk P ...
, identifying plants.
He spent most of his twenties working in a series of Minneapolis restaurants
and by 27 was working as an executive chef.
By 29 he was burnt out and spent some time in Mexico regrouping; while in Puerto Vallarta he spent time with some
Huichol
The Huichol or Wixárika are an indigenous people of Mexico and the United States living in the Sierra Madre Occidental range in the states of Nayarit, Jalisco, Zacatecas, and Durango, as well as in the United States in the states of California ...
people and had an "epiphany", saying: "After seeing how the Huicholes held onto so much of their pre-European culture through artwork and food, I recognized I wanted to know my own food heritage. What did my ancestors eat before the Europeans arrived on our lands?”
Career
In 2014 Sherman founded indigenous food education business and caterer The Sioux Chef. The ''Washington Post'' called it "a homonym to another ... culinary concept",
the
sous-chef
A sous-chef is a chef who is second in command in a kitchen; the person ranking next after the head chef, usually the more hands on manager with regards to training staff and organising the kitchen.
Duties and functions
The sous-chef has many re ...
.
He founded the nonprofit North American Traditional Indigenous Food Systems (NĀTIFS) with his business and life partner Dana Thompson.
The organization includes the Indigenous Food Lab, which works with
ethnobotanists
Ethnobotany is the study of a region's plants and their practical uses through the traditional knowledge of a local culture and people. An ethnobotanist thus strives to document the local customs involving the practical uses of local flora for m ...
to record the earliest names of native plants.
In 2015, he and Thompson launched Tatanka Truck, a food truck that offers such dishes as bison wild rice and teas made from cedar and maple.
In 2017 Sherman co-authored ''
The Sioux Chef's Indigenous Kitchen'', published by the University of Minnesota,
which won the 2018
James Beard Award
The James Beard Foundation Awards are annual awards presented by the James Beard Foundation to recognize chefs, restaurateurs, authors and journalists in the United States. They are scheduled around James Beard's May 5 birthday. The media award ...
for Best American Cookbook.
In order to create the book's recipes, he interviewed older community members and searched archives for descriptions of traditional Lakota foods.
Recipes in the book contain no dairy, wheat, beef, pork, or cane sugar, as these are non-indigenous ingredients, brought to North America by European colonizers.
Sherman describes the recipes as "hyperlocal, ultraseasonal, uber-healthy
ndmost of all, it's utterly delicious."
''
Publishers Weekly
''Publishers Weekly'' (''PW'') is an American weekly trade news magazine targeted at publishers, librarians, booksellers, and literary agents. Published continuously since 1872, it has carried the tagline, "The International News Magazine of B ...
'' called the book, "an illuminating guide to Native American food that will enthrall home cooks and food historians alike."
That same year he prepared a six-course dinner at the
James Beard House.
In 2018 he participated in a
National Museum of American History
The National Museum of American History: Kenneth E. Behring Center collects, preserves, and displays the heritage of the United States in the areas of social, political, cultural, scientific, and military history. Among the items on display is t ...
roundtable at the Food History weekend event.
During the event he prepared a traditional dish, ''Mag˘áksic˘a na Psíŋ Wasná'', duck and wild rice
pemmican
Pemmican (also pemican in older sources) is a mixture of tallow, dried meat, and sometimes dried berries. A calorie-rich food, it can be used as a key component in prepared meals or eaten raw. Historically, it was an important part of indigenou ...
.
In 2019 Sherman received a
James Beard Foundation
The James Beard Foundation is a New York City-based national non-profit culinary arts organization named in honor of James Beard, a prolific food writer, teacher, and cookbook author, who was also known as the "Dean of American Cookery." The prog ...
Leadership Award, which recognizes people and organizations that "(work) to change our food world for the better."
''
The New York Times
''The New York Times'' (''the Times'', ''NYT'', or the Gray Lady) is a daily newspaper based in New York City with a worldwide readership reported in 2020 to comprise a declining 840,000 paid print subscribers, and a growing 6 million paid ...
'' called his style "colorful and elegant".
Philosophy
Sherman abandoned the use of ingredients that are not
endemic
Endemism is the state of a species being found in a single defined geographic location, such as an island, state, nation, country or other defined zone; organisms that are indigenous to a place are not endemic to it if they are also found elsew ...
to North America
after having "an epiphany" while working at a restaurant in Mexico that used local ingredients
and realizing that the traditional foods of the Oglala were "completely unrepresented in American cuisine."
He objects to indigenous cuisine being called "the next big thing", saying, "This is not a trend. It's a way of life."
He told the James Beard Foundation, "We're not trying to cook like it's 1491. We're trying to take knowledge from the past and evolve it for today."
Along with some other Native American chefs,
Sherman rejects
frybread
Frybread (also spelled fry bread) is a flat dough bread, fried or deep-fried in oil, shortening, or lard. Made with simple ingredients, generally wheat flour, sugar, salt, and fat, frybread can be eaten alone or with various toppings such a ...
, often associated with "traditional" Native American cuisine, calling it "everything that isn't Native American food"
and writing that it represents "perseverance and pain, ingenuity and resilience."
While a symbol of resilience,
as it was developed out of necessity using government-provided flour, sugar, and lard, these chefs also consider it a symbol of colonial oppression,
as the ingredients were being provided because the government had moved the people onto land that could not support growing traditional staples like corn and beans.
Frybread's significance to Native Americans has been described as complicated
and their relationship with it conflicted.
Personal life
Sherman lives in
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Minneapolis () is the largest city in Minnesota, United States, and the county seat of Hennepin County. The city is abundant in water, with thirteen lakes, wetlands, the Mississippi River, creeks and waterfalls. Minneapolis has its origins ...
.
He has one son.
Awards
* 2018 James Beard Award, Best American Cookbook
* 2019 James Beard Leadership Award
Books
* ''
The Sioux Chef's Indigenous Kitchen'' (2017)
See also
*
Ingredients native to the Americas
References
External links
*
{{DEFAULTSORT:Sherman, Sean
1974 births
Living people
21st-century American non-fiction writers
21st-century Native Americans
American male chefs
American chefs
American nonprofit chief executives
Black Hills State University alumni
Businesspeople from South Dakota
Businesspeople from Minneapolis
Chefs from Minnesota
American cookbook writers
Indigenous cuisine of the Americas
James Beard Foundation Award winners
Native American chefs
Native American writers
Oglala people
Writers from Minneapolis
Writers from South Dakota