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''Sbai'' ( km, ស្បៃ ; lo, ສະໄບ; Malay: ''Sebai''; Jawi: ''سباي''; th, สไบ, ) or ''phaa biang'' ( lo, ຜ້າບ່ຽງ; th, ผ้าเบี่ยง ) is a shawl-like garment or breast cloth worn in mainland
Southeast Asia Southeast Asia, also spelled South East Asia and South-East Asia, and also known as Southeastern Asia, South-eastern Asia or SEA, is the geographical south-eastern region of Asia, consisting of the regions that are situated south of mainlan ...
. ''Sbai'' is worn by women as a silk breast wrapper in
Cambodia Cambodia (; also Kampuchea ; km, កម្ពុជា, UNGEGN: ), officially the Kingdom of Cambodia, is a country located in the southern portion of the Indochinese Peninsula in Southeast Asia, spanning an area of , bordered by Thailan ...
, Laos, and
Thailand Thailand ( ), historically known as Siam () and officially the Kingdom of Thailand, is a country in Southeast Asia, located at the centre of the Indochinese Peninsula, spanning , with a population of almost 70 million. The country is b ...
, while in coastal Sumatra and Malay peninsula, the same term is used to describe a shoulder cloth. The ''sbai'' was derived from the Indian ''sari'', the end of which is worn over one shoulder.


Etymology

''Sbai'' is a Khmer word that refers to any kind of thin and soft garment. In clothing, it specifically refers to a shawl-like garment or breast cloth used mostly by women and to a lesser extent religious men.


History

Sbai is derived from the Indian
sari A sari (sometimes also saree or shari)The name of the garment in various regional languages include: * as, শাৰী, xārī, translit-std=ISO * bn, শাড়ি, śāṛi, translit-std=ISO * gu, સાડી, sāḍī, translit-std ...
which may have been introduced to Southeast Asia through the
Indianized Kingdoms Greater India, or the Indian cultural sphere, is an area composed of many countries and regions in South Asia, South and Southeast Asia that were historically influenced by Indian culture, which itself formed from the various distinct indigeno ...
along with other traditions and elements of Indian culture.


Cambodia

The ''sbai'' of Cambodia was introduced from ancient India as it resembles Indian
sari A sari (sometimes also saree or shari)The name of the garment in various regional languages include: * as, শাৰী, xārī, translit-std=ISO * bn, শাড়ি, śāṛi, translit-std=ISO * gu, સાડી, sāḍī, translit-std ...
. There are related mythologies in the
Khmer culture Throughout Cambodia's long history, religion has been a major source of cultural inspiration. Over nearly three millennia, Cambodians have developed a unique Cambodians, Cambodian culture and belief system from the syncreticism of indigenous ani ...
concerning the history of ''sbai'', which was likely introduced during the Kingdom of Funan alongside chang kben in the first century AD. The ''sbai'' is mentioned in the legends of
Preah Thong and Neang Neak Preah Thong Neang Neak statue symbolises the birth of Khmer land, culture, traditions and civilisation of Cambodia. The statue is 21 metres tall on a pedestal 6.34 metres high (27.34 metres in total) is the largest copper statue in Cambodia and It ...
. In one scene, Preah Thong clings to a piece of cloth worn on the Nagini in order to make the journey to the
Nāga The Nagas (IAST: ''nāga''; Devanāgarī: नाग) are a divine, or semi-divine, race of half-human, half-serpent beings that reside in the netherworld (Patala), and can occasionally take human or part-human form, or are so depicted in art. ...
's kingdom; that piece of cloth is a ''sbai''. In that tale, the ''sbai'' is symbolic of the tail of Neang Neak, the Naga princess. In Angkorian period, although it was common for men and women to be topless, however clothes for the upper body were worn: the bas reliefs of
Bayon The Bayon ( km, ប្រាសាទបាយ័ន, ) is a richly decorated Khmer temple related to Buddhism at Angkor in Cambodia. Built in the late 12th or early 13th century as the state temple of the King Jayavarman VII ( km, ព្រ ...
, Preah Khan, and other Angkorian temples depict women wearing a shawl-like ''sbai'' while religious male figures are adorned with stylized ''sbai''. At Angkor Wat, there are depictions of topless Apsaras holding sbai connected to their ''
sampot A ''sampot'' ( km, សំពត់, ), a long, rectangular cloth worn around the lower body, is a traditional dress in Cambodia. It can be draped and folded in several different ways. The traditional dress is similar to the dhoti of Southern As ...
'', while the northern wall of Angkor Wat depicts a group of ladies wearing long ''sbai'' holding various offerings. Nowadays, ''sbai'' along with chang kben and
sampot A ''sampot'' ( km, សំពត់, ), a long, rectangular cloth worn around the lower body, is a traditional dress in Cambodia. It can be draped and folded in several different ways. The traditional dress is similar to the dhoti of Southern As ...
are regarded as Cambodia national costume. Sbai most often used in traditional Khmer weddings with different type and decoration during the rite of () which represents the legend of the foundation of Funan and where the groom holds on to the bride's ''sbai'' as they go to their room. The groom also wears a ''sbai''. For men, especially Brahmin and Buddhist monk, the ''sbai'' called '' sbong sbai trai chivor,'' and is considered the robe of Hindu and Buddhist monks. For women, ''sbai'' can be freely used and in different ways such as to wrapping it around the body, covering the shoulder, and commonly covering the breast and stomach over the left shoulder. Different styles of ''sbai'' are used by Cambodian women based on their preferences and traditions.


Laos

In Laos, this garment is known as ''phaa biang'' or sabai. It is common for Lao women to wear ''sabai'' as it is considered traditional clothing. A ''sabai'' can also be worn by men in weddings or when attending religious ceremonies. The type of ''sabai'' typically worn by Lao men often has checkered patterns. ''Sabai'' can also be a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, that is draped diagonally over the chest covering one shoulder with one end dropping behind the back.Bonnie Ghazarbekian, Jane Siegel, ''Sawaddi, 15 years'', p.130.


Malaysia

In Malaysia, Sebai is a cloth wrapped around the neck to cover the shoulders with both ends hanging on the chest similar to a scarf hung over the shoulders.


Myanmar

The ethnic Mon is also known to have similar tradition of wearing the shawl-like ''sabai'' called ''Yat Toot'' in Mon language, diagonally over the chest covering one shoulder with one end dropping behind the back like that worn by Lao women. This tradition distinguished them from other ethnic groups in Myanmar. The today Mon people of Myanmar and Thailand were the descendants of various Indianized polities notably
Dvaravati The Dvaravati ( th, ทวารวดี ; ) was an ancient Mon kingdom from the 7th century to the 11th century that was located in the region now known as central Thailand. It was described by the Chinese pilgrim in the middle of the 7th cent ...
. Artifacts from Mon
Dvaravati The Dvaravati ( th, ทวารวดี ; ) was an ancient Mon kingdom from the 7th century to the 11th century that was located in the region now known as central Thailand. It was described by the Chinese pilgrim in the middle of the 7th cent ...
sites in what is now Thailand depicted a group of ladies wearing what is similar to ''sabai''.


Thailand

Dvaravati The Dvaravati ( th, ทวารวดี ; ) was an ancient Mon kingdom from the 7th century to the 11th century that was located in the region now known as central Thailand. It was described by the Chinese pilgrim in the middle of the 7th cent ...
sites depicting group of ladies wearing what is similar to ''sabai''. ''Sabai'' ( th, สไบ, , ) or pha biang ( th, ผ้าเบี่ยง ) is shawl-like garment, or breast cloth. Sabais can be used by women or men. The sabai is also known as a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, draped diagonally around the chest by covering one shoulder which its end drops behind the back. Sabais could be worn around the naked chest or on top of another cloth. The practice of wearing Sabai along with Victorian cloth was a common practice during the reign of King Chulalongkorn and lasted until the reign of King Vajiravudh when Westernized clothing became more fashionable.


Gallery

File:Sbai Khmer.png, Figures wearing ''sbai'' depicted on the
Bayon The Bayon ( km, ប្រាសាទបាយ័ន, ) is a richly decorated Khmer temple related to Buddhism at Angkor in Cambodia. Built in the late 12th or early 13th century as the state temple of the King Jayavarman VII ( km, ព្រ ...
temple, Angkor Wat File:Khmer temple depictions of Sbai.png, Figures wearing stylised ''sbai'' depicted on
Angkorian Khmer architecture ( km, ស្ថាបត្យកម្មខ្មែរ), also known as Angkorian architecture ( km, ស្ថាបត្យកម្មសម័យអង្គរ), is the architecture produced by the Khmers during the Ang ...
temples File:Ang Mei, Queen of Cambodia.jpeg, Queen Ang Mey and her daughters wearing ''sbai'' in the 1800s File:Femme-serail.jpg, Khmer Cambodian lady wearing ''sbai'' in late 1800s File:Cambodian couple.jpg, Cambodian bride wearing a ''sbai'' in a wedding ceremony File:Cambodian American Dance (22662834390).jpg, Dancer wearing ''sbai'' File:Style of Sbai.png, Different styles of wrapping ''sbai'' used in Cambodia


See also

* Sampot Chang Kben * Khmer Traditional Dress *
Culture of Cambodia Throughout Cambodia's long history, religion has been a major source of cultural inspiration. Over nearly three millennia, Cambodians have developed a unique Cambodian culture and belief system from the syncreticism of indigenous animistic beli ...
*
Chut thai Traditional Thai clothing is called ''chut thai'' (), which literally means 'Thai outfit'. It can be worn by men, women, and children. ''Chut thai'' for women usually consists of a '' pha nung'' or a '' pha chung hang'', a blouse, and a '' pha bi ...
*
Sampot A ''sampot'' ( km, សំពត់, ), a long, rectangular cloth worn around the lower body, is a traditional dress in Cambodia. It can be draped and folded in several different ways. The traditional dress is similar to the dhoti of Southern As ...
*
Sampot Samloy ''Sampot chang samloy'' ( km, សំពត់ចងសម្លុយ, ) is a tube garment wrap around the lower body, length to foot, worn by a large community in Cambodia. As an important style divided from traditional Sampot tied with the an ...
*
Kemben ''Kemben'' ( jv, ꦏꦼꦩ꧀ꦧꦼꦤ꧀, Indonesian: ''kemban'') is an Indonesian female torso wrap historically common in Java, Bali, and other part of Indonesian archipelago. It is made by wrapping a piece of ''kain'' (clothes), either pla ...
*
Malaysian cultural outfits Pakaian ( Jawi: ڤاکاين) is the term for clothing in Malaysia's national language. It is referring to things to wear such as shirts, pants, shoes etc. Since Malaysia is a multicultural nation: Malay, Chinese, Indian and hundreds of other i ...
*
Sari A sari (sometimes also saree or shari)The name of the garment in various regional languages include: * as, শাৰী, xārī, translit-std=ISO * bn, শাড়ি, śāṛi, translit-std=ISO * gu, સાડી, sāḍī, translit-std ...
*
Traditional Thai clothing Traditional Thai clothing is called ''chut thai'' (), which literally means 'Thai outfit'. It can be worn by men, women, and children. ''Chut thai'' for women usually consists of a '' pha nung'' or a '' pha chung hang'', a blouse, and a '' pha bi ...


References


External links

{{Historical clothing Shawls and wraps Cambodian clothing Folk costumes Laotian clothing Malay clothing Thai clothing History of Asian clothing