A satin weave is a type of
fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back. It is one of three fundamental types of textile weaves alongside
plain weave and
twill weave.
The satin weave is characterised by four or more fill or
weft
Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric. The lengthwise or longitudinal warp yarns are held stationary in tension on a frame or loom while the transverse weft (sometimes woof) is draw ...
yarns floating over a
warp
Warp, warped or warping may refer to:
Arts and entertainment Books and comics
* WaRP Graphics, an alternative comics publisher
* ''Warp'' (First Comics), comic book series published by First Comics based on the play ''Warp!''
* Warp (comics), a ...
yarn, and four warp yarns floating over a single weft yarn. Floats are missed interfacings, for example where the warp yarn lies on top of the weft in a warp-faced satin. These floats explain the high lustre and even sheen, as unlike in other weaves, light is not scattered as much when hitting the fibres, resulting in a stronger reflection. Satin is usually a warp-faced weaving technique in which warp yarns are "floated" over weft yarns, although there are also weft-faced satins. If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using
filament
The word filament, which is descended from Latin ''filum'' meaning " thread", is used in English for a variety of thread-like structures, including:
Astronomy
* Galaxy filament, the largest known cosmic structures in the universe
* Solar filament ...
fibres such as
silk
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known silk is obtained from the ...
,
polyester or
nylon
Nylon is a generic designation for a family of synthetic polymers composed of polyamides ( repeating units linked by amide links).The polyamides may be aliphatic or semi-aromatic.
Nylon is a silk-like thermoplastic, generally made from pet ...
, the corresponding fabric is termed a 'satin', although some definitions insist that a satin fabric is only made from silk. If the yarns used are
short-staple yarns such as
cotton
Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds of the cotton plants of the genus '' Gossypium'' in the mallow family Malvaceae. The fiber is almost pure cellulose, and can contain minor p ...
, the fabric formed is considered a
sateen.
Many variations can be made of the basic satin weave, including a granite weave and a check weave.
Satin is commonly used in clothing, for items such as
lingerie,
nightgowns,
blouses, and
evening gown
An evening gown, evening dress or gown is a long dress usually worn at formal occasions. The drop ranges from ballerina (mid-calf to just above the ankles), tea (above the ankles), to full-length. Such gowns are typically worn with eveni ...
s, but is also used for
boxer shorts,
shirts and
neckties. It is also used in the production of
pointe shoes for use in
ballet
Ballet () is a type of performance dance that originated during the Italian Renaissance in the fifteenth century and later developed into a concert dance form in France and Russia. It has since become a widespread and highly technical form ...
. Other uses include interior furnishing fabrics, upholstery, and
bed sheets.
History
China
Satin was originally made solely of
silk
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known silk is obtained from the ...
, which, for much of history, was produced and found mainly in
China. In China, there were various forms of satin fabrics which came under several names, such as (), (), (), (), () and ().
Chinese satin, in its original form, was supposed to be a five- or six-end warp satin.
The six-end warp satin weave was mostly likely a derivative of the six-end warp twill weave during the
Tang and
Northern Song dynasty
Northern may refer to the following:
Geography
* North, a point in direction
* Northern Europe, the northern part or region of Europe
* Northern Highland, a region of Wisconsin, United States
* Northern Province, Sri Lanka
* Northern Range, a ...
periods.
Europe
Silk satin was introduced to Europe during the 12th century. As an imported fabric, it was considerably expensive, and was worn only by the upper classes.
Etymology
The word "satin" derives its origin from the Chinese port city of
Quanzhou (),
which was known as ''Zayton'' in Europe and Arab countries during the
Yuan dynasty
The Yuan dynasty (), officially the Great Yuan (; xng, , , literally "Great Yuan State"), was a Mongols, Mongol-led Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China and a successor state to the Mongol Empire after Division of the M ...
(13th–14th century).
During that period, Quanzhou was visited by
Arab merchants and by
Europeans
Europeans are the focus of European ethnology, the field of anthropology related to the various ethnic groups that reside in the states of Europe. Groups may be defined by common genetic ancestry, common language, or both. Pan and Pfeil (20 ...
.
The Arabs referred to silk satin imported from Quanzhou as .
During the latter part of the Middle Ages, Quanzhou was a major shipping port of silk, using the
Maritime Silk Road
The Maritime Silk Road or Maritime Silk Route is the Maritime history, maritime section of the historic Silk Road that connected Southeast Asia, China, the Indian subcontinent, the Arabian peninsula, Somalia, Egypt and Europe. It began by the 2n ...
to reach Europe. It was mostly used in the
Arab world
The Arab world ( ar, اَلْعَالَمُ الْعَرَبِيُّ '), formally the Arab homeland ( '), also known as the Arab nation ( '), the Arabsphere, or the Arab states, refers to a vast group of countries, mainly located in Western A ...
.
Types of satin weave
Satin-weave fabrics are more flexible, with better draping characteristics than plain weaves. In a satin weave, the fill yarn passes over multiple warp yarns before interlacing under one warp yarn. Common satin weaves are:
* 4-harness satin weave (4HS), also called
crowfoot satin
Crowfoot (1830 – 25 April 1890) or Isapo-Muxika ( bla, Issapóómahksika, italics=yes; syllabics: ) was a chief of the Siksika First Nation. His parents, (Packs a Knife) and (Attacked Towards Home), were Kainai. He was five years old when ...
, in which the fill yarn passes over three warp yarns and under one warp yarn. It is more pliable than a plain weave.
* 5-harness satin weave (5HS); the fill yarn passes over four warp yarns and then under one warp yarn.
* 8-harness satin weave (8HS), in which the fill yarn passes over seven warp yarns and then under one warp yarn, is the most pliable satin weave.
Types of satin
*
Antique satin
Antique satin, also called satin-back shantung, is any five- or eight-harness (shaft) satin weave that uses slubbed or unevenly spun yarns in the weft (filling). It is reversible in that one side is satin and the other is shantung. It is used ...
– is a type of satin-back
shantung, woven with slubbed or unevenly spun weft yarns.
* Baronet or baronette – has a cotton back and a rayon or silk front, similar to
georgette.
*
Charmeuse – is a lightweight, draping satin-weave fabric with a dull reverse.
*
Cuttanee
Cuttanee (also called cotonis, cuttance, or cutance) was a fine heavy and stout silk and cotton satin of East India, formerly produced for export, with bright coloured woven stripes and sometimes floral designs, used for quilts and upholstery. It ...
– fine heavy and stout silk and cotton satin
* Double face(d) – satin is woven with a glossy surface on both sides. It is possible for both sides to have a different pattern, albeit using the same colours.
*
Duchess(e) satin – is a particularly luxurious, heavy, stiff satin.
* Faconne – is
jacquard woven
The Jacquard machine () is a device fitted to a loom that simplifies the process of manufacturing textiles with such complex patterns as brocade, damask and matelassé. The resulting ensemble of the loom and Jacquard machine is then called a ...
satin.
* Farmer's satin or Venetian cloth – is made from
mercerised cotton.
[
* Gattar – is satin made with a silk warp and a cotton weft.]
* Messaline – is lightweight and loosely woven.
* Polysatin or poly-satin – is an abbreviated term for polyester satin.
* Slipper satin – is stiff and medium- to heavy-weight fabric.
* Sultan – is a worsted fabric with a satin face.[
* Surf satin – was a 1910s American trademark for a taffeta fabric used for ]swimsuit
A swimsuit is an item of clothing designed to be worn by people engaging in a water-based activity or water sports, such as swimming, diving and surfing, or sun-orientated activities, such as sun bathing. Different types may be worn by men, ...
s.
Uses for satin
Because of the different ways the weave is employed, satin has a range of functions from interior décor to fashion.
* Dresses: Satin's drape and shiny texture make it a favorite for evening gowns and bridal gowns.
* Upholstery: Satin was first used for ornamental furniture in Europe at the Palace of Versailles, and it is still used for pillow covers, chairs, and other forms of cushioned furniture today.
* Bed sheets: Satin is frequently used for bed linens because of its flexible and silky texture.
* Footwear: Satin is a popular fabric for shoe makers, from ballerina slippers to high heels.
* Fashion accessories: Satin is commonly used for evening bags and clutches in the fashion industry.
References
Bibliography
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*
External links
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{{Authority control
Woven fabrics
Weaves