Round collar robe, also called () and in China, (; ; ) in Korea, was a style of , a Chinese

robe A robe is a loose-fitting outer garment. Unlike garments described as capes or cloaks, robes usually have sleeves. The English word ''robe'' derives from Middle English ''robe'' ("garment"), borrowed from Old French ''robe'' ("booty, spoil ...

, worn in ancient China, which was long enough to cover the entire body of its wearer. The Chinese was developed under the influences of the worn by the and by the (including the

Xianbei The Xianbei (; ) were a Proto-Mongolic ancient nomadic people that once resided in the eastern Eurasian steppes in what is today Mongolia, Inner Mongolia, and Northeastern China. They originated from the Donghu people who splintered into th ...

). Depending on time period, the Chinese also had some traces of influences from the worn by the Sogdian. The Chinese continued to evolve, developing distinctive Chinese characteristics with time and lost its connotation. It eventually became fully integrated in the system for the imperial and court dress attire. Under the influence of ancient China, the Chinese was adopted by the rest of the

East Asian cultural sphere The East Asian cultural sphere, also known as the Sinosphere, the Sinic world, the Sinitic world, the Chinese cultural sphere, the Chinese character sphere encompasses multiple countries in East Asia and Southeast Asia that were historically ...

History

China

Tomb of Northern Qi Dynasty in Jiuyuangang, Xinzhou, Mural 11

The appearance of collars in , including those used in the round collar robe, occurred during the Eastern Han dynasty where clothing with round collars started to be used as an inner garment under the of the . Later on, the clothing customs of the Chinese were further influenced by the -style clothing with round collars and narrow sleeves used in the of the (including the people) during the

Six dynasties Six Dynasties (; 220–589 or 222–589) is a collective term for six Han-ruled Chinese dynasties that existed from the early 3rd century AD to the late 6th century AD. The Six Dynasties period overlapped with the era of the Sixteen Kingdoms ...

period, when clothing with collar started to be worn as an outer-garment and could be used as a form of formal clothing. A form of localized which was integrated with the traditional Chinese characteristics of the is the . By the

Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, t= ), or Tang Empire, was an imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907 AD, with an interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed by the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdom ...

, the became a formal attire which was typically worn by men although it also became fashionable for women to wear it in some dynasties, such as in the Tang dynasty. During the Tang dynasty, under the influence of the

Sogdians :''This category lists articles related to historical Iranian peoples'' Historical Peoples Iranian Iranian Iranian Iranian may refer to: * Iran, a sovereign state * Iranian peoples, the speakers of the Iranian languages. The term Iranic peoples ...

, the could be transformed into a . File:韋貴妃墓儀衛圖.jpg, alt=, Three kinds of yuanlingpao: Fanlingpao (left),

panling lanshan Panling lanshan (盤領襴衫), also referred as lanshan (襴衫), is a traditional Chinese attire for men. It is a specific form of round collar robe, known as yuanlingpao, which is characterized with the use of hem, called hanglan (横襕), ...

(middle),

yuanlingshan Yuanlingshan () is a form of round-collared upper garment (called ) in ; it is also referred as () or () when used as a robe (called ). The and were both developed under the influence of from the Donghu people in the early Han dynasty and ...

(right),

File:Emperor Taizong of Song.tif, alt=, Yuanlingpao with broad and loose sleeves,

Song dynasty The Song dynasty (; ; 960–1279) was an imperial dynasty of China that began in 960 and lasted until 1279. The dynasty was founded by Emperor Taizu of Song following his usurpation of the throne of the Later Zhou. The Song conquered the rest ...

File:MingXianzong1.jpg, alt=, Yuanlingpao as a dragon robe, Ming dynasty File:A mandarin's wife in ceremonial costume. Ming. Colours on silk. Toulon Asian Art Museum.jpg, alt=, Yuanlingpao with broad sleeves, Ming dynasty File:六十七代衍聖公繼配葉夫人衣冠像.jpg, alt=, Yuanlingpao, Qing dynasty

Korea

Korea Korea ( ko, 한국, or , ) is a peninsular region in East Asia. Since 1945, it has been divided at or near the 38th parallel, with North Korea (Democratic People's Republic of Korea) comprising its northern half and South Korea (Republic o ...

, round collared

hanbok The (; term used in South Korea), also called () n North Korea and China, is an umbrella term which is used to refer to traditional ethnic Korean clothes, including the traditional clothing of the (Korean Chinese), an officially recognized ...

was worn with roots in hobok and

Goguryeo Goguryeo (37 BC–668 AD) ( ) also called Goryeo (), was a Korean kingdom located in the northern and central parts of the Korean Peninsula and the southern and central parts of Northeast China. At its peak of power, Goguryeo controlled mos ...

murals show that it was worn often as an inner garment. The official court uniform called danryeong was introduced from

by Kim Chun-chu in the second year of Queen Jindeok's rule. Since then, it has been worn as an official outfit for government officials until the end of Joseon. It originated from the Chinese' round collar robe. At first, the danryeong collar was circular, similar to the Chinese round collar robe but later localized into a uniquely Korean U-shaped collar also seen in the Won-sam. Danryeong is used as a type of

Gwanbok (') is a Korean term which was borrowed from the Chinese terms (; and ) and/or the Chinese term (; ). The term () is a collective term which refers to historical official attire, which was bestowed by the government court, including Chinese c ...

. Sometimes it is worn together with the

dapho Dapho (답호; 褡護), also known as dapbok or dapo, is either a sleeveless or short sleeved garment (banbi ui, 半臂衣), The dapo originated in the Yuan dynasty and was introduced in Korea during the late Goryeo. With time the structure of t ...

. In late Joseon, under the 1884 decree of King Gojong, only black-coloured danryeong were permitted to be worn by court officials. File:Kim Jeong-hui.jpg, Danryeong of Joseon Dynasty

Japan

References

History of Asian clothing {{fashion-stub

History

China

Korea

Japan

See also

References