Qandabil
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Gandava, historically known as Qandabil or Ganjaba, is a town in Jhal Magsi District of
Balochistan Balochistan ( ; bal, بلۏچستان; also romanised as Baluchistan and Baluchestan) is a historical region in Western and South Asia, located in the Iranian plateau's far southeast and bordering the Indian Plate and the Arabian Sea coastline. ...
,
Pakistan Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 24 ...
. Gandawa was one of the provincial headquarters of the Bhil dynasty of India .Located on a small hill in the middle of the Kach Gandava plain, Gandava is inhabited by a mixture of Sindhi,
Baloch Baloch, also spelled Baloch, Beluch and in other ways, may refer to: * Baloch people, an ethnic group of Pakistan, Iran and Afghanistan * Baluch, a small itinerant community of Afghanistan * Balouch, Azad Kashmir, a town in Pakistan * Baloch (s ...
, Pathan, Brahui, and
Hindu Hindus (; ) are people who religiously adhere to Hinduism.Jeffery D. Long (2007), A Vision for Hinduism, IB Tauris, , pages 35–37 Historically, the term has also been used as a geographical, cultural, and later religious identifier for ...
communities. The town has a long history and several old architectural monuments including the Moti Gohram tomb, locally known as "the
Taj Mahal The Taj Mahal (; ) is an Islamic ivory-white marble mausoleum on the right bank of the river Yamuna in the Indian city of Agra. It was commissioned in 1631 by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan () to house the tomb of his favourite wife, Mu ...
of Baluchistan". Gandava also faces significant difficulties with needs like water, electricity, gas, healthcare, and education. As of the
2017 Census of Pakistan The 2017 Census of Pakistan was a detailed enumeration of the Pakistani population which began on 15 March 2017 and ended on 25 May 2017. It was the first census taken in the country in the 21st century, nineteen years after 1998 Census of Pakist ...
, Gandava Municipal Corporation has a population of 7,825 people, in 1,256 households.


Name

The oldest name associated with the city is Qandabil, which appears in medieval Arabic sources. Supposedly the name derives from the sweetness of its drinking water. The present name Gandava first appears in classical Balochi poetry of the 15th century and has been widely used since the 18th century. A third name, Ganjaba, first appears in sources from the 16th century. It refers to "an abundance of water".


History

According to legend, Qandabil was founded by Bahman Ardashir to mark the boundary between the Indians and the Turks. Muslim armies first reached Qandabil in 644, but soon withdrew after hearing of the caliph
Umar ʿUmar ibn al-Khaṭṭāb ( ar, عمر بن الخطاب, also spelled Omar, ) was the second Rashidun caliph, ruling from August 634 until his assassination in 644. He succeeded Abu Bakr () as the second caliph of the Rashidun Caliphate o ...
's death that same year. Qandabil was then controlled by the Brahmin dynasty of Sindh and became a refuge for Arabs fleeing from the
Umayyad The Umayyad Caliphate (661–750 CE; , ; ar, ٱلْخِلَافَة ٱلْأُمَوِيَّة, al-Khilāfah al-ʾUmawīyah) was the second of the four major caliphates established after the death of Muhammad. The caliphate was ruled by the ...
government. In 688, the
Kharijite The Kharijites (, singular ), also called al-Shurat (), were an Islamic sect which emerged during the First Fitna (656–661). The first Kharijites were supporters of Ali who rebelled against his acceptance of arbitration talks to settle the c ...
rebel Atiyya ibn al-Aswad al-Hanafi fled to Qandabil pursued by a section of
al-Muhallab ibn Abi Sufra Abū Saʿīd al-Muhallab ibn Abī Ṣufra al-Azdī ( ar, أَبْو سَعِيْد ٱلْمُهَلَّب ابْن أَبِي صُفْرَة ٱلْأَزْدِي; 702) was an Arab general from the Azd tribe who fought in the service of the Ras ...
's army and they killed him here. Six years later, members of the ' Ilafi tribe killed Sa'id ibn Aslam, the Muslim commander of
Makran Makran ( fa, مكران), mentioned in some sources as Mecran and Mokrān, is the coastal region of Baluchistan. It is a semi-desert coastal strip in Balochistan, in Pakistan and Iran, along the coast of the Gulf of Oman. It extends westwards, ...
, at Qandabil.
Al-Hajjaj ibn Yusuf Abu Muhammad al-Hajjaj ibn Yusuf ibn al-Hakam ibn Abi Aqil al-Thaqafi ( ar, أبو محمد الحجاج بن يوسف بن الحكم بن أبي عقيل الثقفي, Abū Muḥammad al-Ḥajjāj ibn Yūsuf ibn al-Ḥakam ibn Abī ʿAqīl al-T ...
sent Mujja'a ibn Si'r to punish the 'Ilafis in 904; they fled before he could reach them but he was able to subjugate "the tribes of Qandabil" who had probably been aligned with the 'Ilafis. From 704 to 711, Qandabil was held by Raja Dahir, who appointed his nephew Dhol as governor of Budhiya. In 711, the Muslims under
Muhammad ibn al-Qasim Muḥammad ibn al-Qāsim al-Thaqāfī ( ar, محمد بن القاسم الثقفي; –) was an Arab military commander in service of the Umayyad Caliphate who led the Muslim conquest of Sindh (part of modern Pakistan), inaugurating the Umayya ...
decisively gained control of Qandabil, which became part of Muslim-ruled
Sindh Sindh (; ; ur, , ; historically romanized as Sind) is one of the four provinces of Pakistan. Located in the southeastern region of the country, Sindh is the third-largest province of Pakistan by land area and the second-largest province ...
. In 720, al-Muhallab's rebelling sons fled to Qandabil, expecting to be given refuge, but their ally Wada' shut the gates and refused them entry and they were killed fighting against their pursuer Hilal ibn Ahwaz al-Tamimi. In 754 Arab tribes occupied Qandabil but they were driven out by the governor of Sindh, Hisham ibn 'Amr. Later, in 837, Qandabil was taken by Muhammad ibn Khalil, but 'Imran, governor of Sindh, recaptured the city and restored order. Medieval Qandabil was the capital of the district called Budha or Budhiya (which was named not because its inhabitants were
Buddhist Buddhism ( , ), also known as Buddha Dharma and Dharmavinaya (), is an Indian religion or philosophical tradition based on teachings attributed to the Buddha. It originated in northern India as a -movement in the 5th century BCE, and ...
s but rather because they belonged to the Budh ethnic group) and had the town of Kizkanan or Kikan, possibly the same as present-day Kalat, as one of its dependencies. The 9th-century writer al-Baladhuri described Qandabil as being on an elevated site in the middle of the plain, which matches the present-day description of Gandava. A century later, Ibn Hawqal described Qandabil as a large city standing alone on a plain where no date palms grew. Also in the 10th century,
al-Istakhri Abu Ishaq Ibrahim ibn Muhammad al-Farisi al-Istakhri () (also ''Estakhri'', fa, استخری, i.e. from the Iranian city of Istakhr, b. - d. 346 AH/AD 957) was a 10th-century travel-author and geographer who wrote valuable accounts in Arab ...
described Qandabil as "the central market-place of the Budha hinterland, where 'the Budh people' sold their produce and obtained their supplies". By the late 10th century, palm trees had been planted in the area around Qandabil – the anonymous author of the '' Hudud al-'Alam'' wrote that it was "a big city, prosperous and pleasant, producing large quantities of dates." In the second half of the 15th century, Gandava (as it was now called) became the capital of the
Lashari The Lashari () is a baloch tribe. According to baloch folklore the tribe was founded by Lashar Khan, one of Mir Jalal Khan's four sons. Lasharis led by Mir Gwahram Khan Lashari, are believed to have engaged in a 30-year war against the Rind, ...
Baloch confederation under alliance with the
Samma dynasty The Samma dynasty ( sd, سمن جو راڄ, ) was a Medieval India, medieval Sindhis, Sindhi dynasty in the Indian subcontinent, that ruled Sindh, as well as parts of Kutch, Punjab region, Punjab and Balochistan (region), Balochistan from 135 ...
. In 1518,
Shah Beg Arghun Shah Beg Arghun (1465 – 1524) (Urdu: شاہ بیگ ارغون) was the son of Zunnun Beg Arghun. He was the commander-in-chief and head of the nobles at the court of Sultan Hussain Mirza King of Khurasan and Governor of Kandahar in 1488, after the ...
occupied Gandava while on his way to conquer Sindh. The city later came under Mughall rule in 1574 and formed part of the '' mahal'' of Fathpur and was administered from
Bukkur Bukkur Fort (Urdu, Sindhi: بکر) is an island located in Rohri, Sukkur District of Sindh province in Pakistan. Named Bukkur (Dawn) by Sayyid Muhammad Al-Makki in the seventh century of Hijri, this island is a limestone rock, oval in shape, lon ...
. Gandava was later ruled by the
Kalhora dynasty The Kalhora dynasty ( sd, ڪلهوڙا راڄ, translit=Kalhora Raj) was a Sunni Muslim dynasty of Sindhi Kalhora origin based in the region of Sindh in what is now Pakistan. They claimed an Arab origin. The dynasty ruled Sindh and parts of th ...
. The city walls were repaired in the early 1700s by a Kalhora officer named Murad and were still standing in the 19th century but are now in ruins. In 1740,
Nader Shah Nader Shah Afshar ( fa, نادر شاه افشار; also known as ''Nader Qoli Beyg'' or ''Tahmāsp Qoli Khan'' ) (August 1688 – 19 June 1747) was the founder of the Afsharid dynasty of Iran and one of the most powerful rulers in Iranian h ...
conquered the Kalhoras and transferred Gandava to the
Khans of Kalat The Khanate of Kalat ( bal, کلاتءِ ھانات) was a Baloch Khanate that existed from 1512 to 1955 in the centre of the modern-day province of Balochistan, Pakistan. Its rulers were Brahui speakers. Prior to that they were subjects of ...
. It remained under their control until 1955 and served as their winter residence.


References

{{Reflist Populated places in Jhal Magsi District Jhal Magsi District Populated places in Balochistan, Pakistan