Pumari Chhish ( ur, ), (or Pumarikish, Peak 11) is a high peak in the Shimshal Valley, a village of the

Karakoram The Karakoram is a mountain range in Kashmir region spanning the borders of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwest extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range falls under the ...

range Range may refer to: Geography * Range (geographic), a chain of hills or mountains; a somewhat linear, complex mountainous or hilly area (cordillera, sierra) ** Mountain range, a group of mountains bordered by lowlands * Range, a term used to i ...

. It lies about 4 km east of

Khunyang Chhish Kunyang Chhish or Kunyang Chhish ( ur, ) is the second-highest mountain in the Hispar Muztagh, a subrange in the Karakoram mountains in Pakistan. An alternate variation of the name is Kunyang Kish. Its height, also sometimes given as , is ranke ...

, in the heart of the Hispar, north of the Hispar

Glacier A glacier (; ) is a persistent body of dense ice that is constantly moving under its own weight. A glacier forms where the accumulation of snow exceeds its Ablation#Glaciology, ablation over many years, often Century, centuries. It acquires dis ...

. Pumari Chhish was first attempted by an

Austria Austria, , bar, Östareich officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in the southern part of Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine states, one of which is the capital, Vienna, the most populous ...

n group in 1974, who failed to climb or bypass the Yazghil Glacier on the north side of the peak. In 1979, a

Japan Japan ( ja, 日本, or , and formally , ''Nihonkoku'') is an island country in East Asia. It is situated in the northwest Pacific Ocean, and is bordered on the west by the Sea of Japan, while extending from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north ...

ese group from the Hokkaido Alpine Association and Pakistani Army officer of 29 signal succeeded in climbing the mountain via a long route starting from the Khunyang Glacier, well to the west of the peak. They first had to cross a significant col to access the upper Yazghil Glacier; they then ascended the north ridge of Pumari Chhish. According to the Himalayan Index,Himalayan Index
/ref> there have been no other successful ascents of Pumari Chhish.

Pumari Chhish South

About to the southeast of the main summit of Pumari Chhish lies Pumari Chhish South, .Jerzy Wala, ''Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram'' (1:250,000), Sheet 1, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1990. After two unsuccessful attempts on this peak in 1999 and 2000 by Julie-Ann Clyma and Roger Payne,''American Alpine Journal'', 2008, pp. 16-23. it was first climbed on June 12, 2007, by Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff. Among first ascents of peaks over 7000 metres, their climb was highly technical (they rate it ABO 5.10 M6 A1). They made the ascent in pure

alpine style Alpine style is mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter and equipment as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style (or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked ...

over six days. Their achievement earned them the lead article in the 2008 ''

American Alpine Journal The ''American Alpine Journal'' is an annual magazine published by the American Alpine Club. Its mission is "to document and communicate mountain exploration." The headquarters is in Golden, Colorado. Subtitled as a compilation of "The World's M ...

''.

References

Seven-thousanders of the Karakoram Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan {{Pakistan-geo-stub