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Proactiv is an American brand of skin-care products developed by two American
dermatologists Dermatology is the branch of medicine dealing with the skin.''Random House Webster's Unabridged Dictionary.'' Random House, Inc. 2001. Page 537. . It is a speciality with both medical and surgical aspects. A dermatologist is a specialist medical ...
,
Katie Rodan Katie Rodan (nee Pregerson, born 1955–1956) is an American dermatologist, entrepreneur, and author. She is co-creator of the acne management system Proactiv, co-founder of anti-aging skincare company Rodan + Fields, and operates a private cosmet ...
and Kathy A. Fields, and launched in 1995 by
Guthy-Renker Guthy-Renker ( ) is a California-based direct-response marketing company that sells health and beauty products directly to consumers through infomercials, television ads, direct mail, telemarketing, e-mail marketing, and the Internet. Many of i ...
, a California-based
direct marketing Direct marketing is a form of communicating an offer, where organizations communicate directly to a pre-selected customer and supply a method for a direct response. Among practitioners, it is also known as ''direct response marketing''. B ...
company, that is endorsed by famous celebrities The range includes moisturizers, body washes and treatment products, but the brand is known for its three-step anti-
acne Acne, also known as ''acne vulgaris'', is a long-term Cutaneous condition, skin condition that occurs when Keratinocyte, dead skin cells and Sebum, oil from the skin clog hair follicles. Typical features of the condition include comedo, black ...
kit consisting of a cleanser, toner and lotion. Proactiv+, a reformulation of the three-step kit, was introduced in 2013, and in 2017, ProactivMD launches powered by Adapalene. As a result of its celebrity endorsements and
infomercial An infomercial is a form of television commercial that resembles regular TV programming yet is intended to promote or sell a product, service or idea. It generally includes a toll-free telephone number or website. Most often used as a form of dire ...
s, Proactiv is one of the most popular skincare brands of all time, according to the ''Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology''. Sales amounted to $800 million a year as of 2010, with a media budget of nearly $200 million and $12–15 million for celebrity fees. The product is mostly sold at ULTA Beauty, Target, and online as single-unit items or as part of a continuity program. A month after ordering, customers are sent a three-month supply, which continues until the subscription is cancelled.


History


Product development

Proactiv was created in the late 1980s by Katie Rodan and Kathy A. Fields, who met while at
Stanford University School of Medicine Stanford University School of Medicine is the medical school of Stanford University and is located in Stanford, California. It traces its roots to the Medical Department of the University of the Pacific, founded in San Francisco in 1858. This ...
.Rodan and Fields 2008, pp
4–7
Proactiv was offered to
Neutrogena Neutrogena Corporation, trading as Neutrogena, is an American company that markets skin care, hair care and cosmetics owned by parent company Johnson & Johnson and is headquartered in Los Angeles, California.
, which declined it, but its CEO, Allan Kurtzman, suggested selling it via infomercials.Rodan and Fields 2008, p
8
Guthy-Renker were already in the infomercial business and agreed to market and distribute it. The first infomercial appeared in October 1995, offering a money-back guarantee and fast delivery, and featuring spokesmodel
Judith Light Judith Ellen Light (born February 9, 1949) is an American actress. She made her professional stage debut in 1970, before making her Broadway debut in the 1975 revival of ''A Doll's House''. Her breakthrough role was in the ABC daytime soap opera ...
, who suffered from acne problems herself. Rodan and Fields later founded their own skincare brand, Rodan + Fields.


Guthy-Renker

Guthy-Renker LLC is a
direct-response marketing Direct marketing is a form of communicating an offer, where organizations communicate directly to a pre-selected customer and supply a method for a direct response. Among practitioners, it is also known as ''direct response marketing''. B ...
company registered in El Segundo, California. Founded in November 1988 by Bill Guthy and
Greg Renker Gregory Renker (born 1957), is best known for cofounding Guthy-Renker with partner Bill Guthy. He was born in Phoenix, Arizona in 1957 and had eight siblings. Growing up, Renker's family moved a lot due to his father's work managing country clubs ...
, the company is known as "the Rolls-Royce" of the infomercial industry. As of 2012 its portfolio of products was making $1.8 billion a year. The range includes
Victoria Principal Vicki Ree Principal (born January 3, 1950),Wen Hair Care Wen Hair Care, stylized as WEN Hair Care, is an American hair care brand founded by Chaz Dean. History Wen Hair Care was founded by celebrity hairstylist Chaz Dean. The company is most well known for producing cleansing conditioners marketed to ...
,
Cindy Crawford Cynthia Ann Crawford (born February 20, 1966) is an American model, actress and television personality. During the 1980s and 1990s, she was among the most popular supermodels and a ubiquitous presence on magazine covers, runways, as well as fash ...
's Meaningful Beauty skincare, JLO BeautyKate Lunau (January 8, 2011)
"Pretty valuable faces"
''Macleans''.


Nestlé

In March 2000,
Nestlé Nestlé S.A. (; ; ) is a Switzerland, Swiss multinational food and drink processing conglomerate corporation headquartered in Vevey, Vaud, Switzerland. It is the largest publicly held food company in the world, measured by revenue and other me ...
joined Guthy-Renker as a majority owner of Proactiv. In October 2016, Nestle sold its shares to EQT.


Alchemee and Taro

In 2022, The Proactiv Company makers of the #1 selling acne regimen, is announcing its rebrand and repositioning under the new name Alchemee. In early 2022, Alchemee announces it's acquisition by Taro Pharmaceutical Industries Ltd. (NYSE: TARO)


Products

Proactiv is a registered trademark of Alchemee/Taro Pharmaceutical Industries Ltd. The brand's primary products are three-step kits comprising a cleanser, toner/treatment and lotion/moisturizer, which sells for $36 a month in the United States. The Revitalizing Toner contains
glycolic acid Glycolic acid (or hydroxyacetic acid; chemical formula HOCH2CO2H) is a colorless, odorless and hygroscopic crystalline solid, highly soluble in water. It is used in various skin-care products. Glycolic acid is widespread in nature. A glycolate (so ...
, Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice, and
witch hazel Witch-hazels or witch hazels (''Hamamelis'') are a genus of flowering plants in the family Hamamelidaceae, with three species in North America ('' H. ovalis'', '' H. virginiana'', and '' H. vernalis''), and one each in Japan ('' H.&nb ...
, an
astringent An astringent (sometimes called adstringent) is a chemical that shrinks or constricts body tissues. The word derives from the Latin ''adstringere'', which means "to bind fast". Calamine lotion, witch hazel, and yerba mansa, a Californian plant ...
. The active ingredient in the cleanser and lotion, outside Europe, is a 2.5% concentration of micro-crystal
benzoyl peroxide Benzoyl peroxide is a chemical compound (specifically, an organic peroxide) with structural formula , often abbreviated as (BzO)2. In terms of its structure, the molecule can be described as two benzoyl (, Bz) groups connected by a peroxide () ...
. Benzoyl peroxide has been used since 1934 to kill ''
Cutibacterium acnes ''Cutibacterium acnes'' (formerly ''Propionibacterium acnes'') is the relatively slow-growing, typically aerotolerant Anaerobic organism, anaerobic, gram-positive bacterium (rod) linked to the skin condition of acne vulgaris, acne; it can also ca ...
'', the bacterium that causes acne. Several over-the-counter acne treatments contain it, including
Clean & Clear Clean & Clear is an American brand of dermatology products owned by Johnson & Johnson. Most products aim towards young women and men, but some treat a wider range of conditions, such as the "SOFT" line. Clean & Clear is currently available in 46 c ...
,
Clearasil Clearasil is a brand of skin care and acne medication, whose products contain chiefly benzoyl peroxide, sulfur and resorcinol, triclosan, or salicylic acid as active ingredients. Clearasil has a wide range of products both for rapid and sometimes ...
, Doctor's Dermatologic Formula, Neutrogena Advanced Systems, PanOxyl and Stridex. In 2013, Proactiv+ was introduced, it is a
paraben Parabens are a class of widely used preservatives in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Chemically, they are a series of parahydroxybenzoates or esters of parahydroxybenzoic acid (also known as 4-hydroxybenzoic acid). Parabens are effective p ...
-free three-step kit comprising an exfoliating cleanser (Skin Smoothing Exfoliator), treatment (Pore Targeting Treatment) and hydrating moisturizer (Complexion Perfecting Hydrator). The exfoliator contains 2.5% micro-crystal benzoyl peroxide, the treatment contains 2.5% encapsulated benzoyl peroxide, and a moisturizer with 0.5% salicylic acid. It is more hydrating than the original program and designed for dry-to-sensitive skin types.


Safety and efficacy

Proactiv is aimed at customers with mild to moderate acne.Natasha Singer (October 18, 2007)
"Why Should Kids Have All the Acne?"
''The New York Times''.
According to a 2011 review, there have been few studies examining its efficacy. A 2007 study saw inflammatory lesions reduced by 39% in subjects using a combination of
butenafine Butenafine, sold under the brand names Lotrimin Ultra, Mentax, and Butop (India), is a synthetic benzylamine antifungal. It is structurally related to synthetic allylamine antifungals such as terbinafine. Medical uses Butenafine is indicated ...
and benzoyl peroxide, compared with 34% in those using Proactiv containing only benzoyl peroxide. A physician suggested in ''Salon'' that its three-step system might make it easier for teenagers to comply, but that the key to its success lay with its celebrity endorsements. In 2011, ''
Consumer Reports Consumer Reports (CR), formerly Consumers Union (CU), is an American nonprofit consumer organization dedicated to independent product testing, investigative journalism, consumer-oriented research, public education, and consumer advocacy. Founded ...
'' compared Proactiv (2.5% benzoyl peroxide) with two less expensive products, AcneFree (2.5% benzoyl peroxide) and OXY Maximum (10% benzoyl peroxide). At the time a two-month supply of Proactiv cost around $40 in the US, AcneFree $20 and OXY Maximum $5. Eighty-three subjects, aged 14 to 40, used one of the products twice a day for eight weeks. The magazine reported that, no matter which product was used, after two weeks around 75% of subjects saw a 35% reduction in blemishes on average. After eight weeks, around 50–66% saw a 40% reduction on average. Benzoyl peroxide can have a drying effect on the skin, can cause
erythema Erythema (from the Greek , meaning red) is redness of the skin or mucous membranes, caused by hyperemia (increased blood flow) in superficial capillaries. It occurs with any skin injury, infection, or inflammation. Examples of erythema not assoc ...
(redness) and fine scaling, though these effects are usually mild, and can increase sensitivity to sunlight. One in 500 may experience
allergic contact dermatitis Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) is a form of contact dermatitis that is the manifestation of an allergic response caused by contact with a substance; the other type being irritant contact dermatitis (ICD). Although less common than ICD, ACD is ...
. It is categorized as a
pregnancy category The pregnancy category of a medication is an assessment of the risk of fetal injury due to the pharmaceutical, if it is used as directed by the mother during pregnancy. It does ''not'' include any risks conferred by pharmaceutical agents or their ...
C agent, "suggesting that its use in pregnancy may not be prudent," according to a literature review in the ''Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology''. If benzoyl peroxide comes into contact with clothing it is likely to bleach it. The US
Food and Drug Administration The United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA or US FDA) is a List of United States federal agencies, federal agency of the United States Department of Health and Human Services, Department of Health and Human Services. The FDA is respon ...
(FDA) warned in 2014 that over-the-counter acne products containing benzoyl peroxide and/or salicylic acid, including Proactiv, can cause severe irritation, as well as rare but life-threatening allergic reactions. Consumers were advised to stop using the products if they experience hives or itching, and to seek emergency medical attention if they feel faint, or experience throat tightness, breathing problems, or swelling of the eyes, face, lips or tongue. The FDA noted that it remains unclear whether the reactions are caused by the active ingredients, inactive ingredients or a combination."Over-The-Counter Topical Acne Products: Drug Safety Communication - Rare But Serious Hypersensitivity Reactions"
Food and Drug Administration, June 25, 2014
"Topical Acne Products Can Cause Dangerous Side Effects"
Food and Drug Administration, June 2014

Associated Press, June 25, 2014

Food and Drug Administration, November 1, 2013, updated September 10, 2015.


Sales and marketing


Sales

Proactiv is marketed and distributed by Guthy-Renker, and is responsible for about half the company's revenue.J. B. Arndorfer (May 2, 2005).
Guthy-Renker gives the infomercial street cred
" ''Advertising Age'', 76(18).
Sales of Proactiv amounted to $800 million as of 2010. 70% of sales were in the United States as of 2007. The product is available in some stores, including
Boots A boot is a type of footwear. Boot or Boots may also refer to: Businesses * Boot Inn, Chester, Cheshire, England * Boots (company), a high-street pharmacy chain and manufacturer of pharmaceuticals in the United Kingdom * The Boot, Cromer Stre ...
in the UK,"Proactiv Solution 3 Step System To Clearer Healthier Looking Skin"
, Boots.
and in kiosks and vending machines (known as
ZoomShops ZoomSystems specializes in the design, technology, software development, and operation of automated retail stores. ZoomSystems technology and services support automated, self-service retail stores called ZoomShops located in airports, malls, militar ...
) in malls and airports through a partnership between American Kiosk Management and Guthy-Renker . But the product is mostly sold online or through a toll-free number directly by Guthy-Renker; 60% of Proactiv orders were placed online as of 2010. In 2016, Proactive began selling their products at
Ulta Beauty Ulta Beauty, Inc., formerly known as Ulta Salon, Cosmetics & Fragrance Inc. and before 2000 as Ulta3, is an American chain of beauty stores headquartered in Bolingbrook, Illinois. Ulta Beauty carries both high-end and low-end cosmetics, fragran ...
.


Continuity program

Alchemee sells Proactiv as part of a continuity program, also known as a negative-option offer, whereby customers are sent repeat orders of the program until they cancel their subscription."Five Common Complaints about Guthy-Renker"
Truth in Advertising, June 25, 2013.
When purchasing directly from the company, customers automatically become members of a Proactiv club. A month after ordering, and every three months thereafter, they are sent a three-month supply costing $34.95 (in the US as of 2022). They are billed monthly until they cancel the subscription. The approach is based on the
customer lifetime value In marketing, customer lifetime value (CLV or often CLTV), lifetime customer value (LCV), or life-time value (LTV) is a prognostication of the net profit contributed to the whole future relationship with a customer. The prediction model can have ...
model.


Commercials and advertising

At the time Guthy-Renker owned Proactiv, they had a media budget of $200 million for the brand, much of it spent on air-time, and was spending another $12–15 million a year on celebrity endorsements.
Justin Bieber Justin Drew Bieber ( ; born March 1, 1994) is a Canadian singer. Bieber is recognized for his genre-melding musicianship and has played an influential role in modern-day popular music. He was discovered by American record executive Scooter ...
for example, was paid $3 million over two years. Its infomercials have featured celebrities who have themselves suffered from acne problems; the list includes
Jennifer Love Hewitt Jennifer Love Hewitt (born February 21, 1979) is an American actress and singer. Hewitt began her career as a child actress and singer, appearing in national television commercials before joining the cast of the Disney Channel series ''Kids I ...
,
Kelly Clarkson Kelly Brianne Clarkson (born April 24, 1982) is an American singer, songwriter, author, and television personality. She rose to fame after winning the first season of ''American Idol'' in 2002, which earned her a record deal with RCA. Her debu ...
,
P. Diddy Sean Combs (born Sean John Combs; November 4, 1969), also known by his stage names Puff Daddy, P. Diddy, Puffy, or Diddy, is an American rapper, actor, record producer, and record executive. Born in New York City, he worked as a talent directo ...
,
Avril Lavigne Avril Ramona Lavigne ( ; born September 27, 1984) is a Canadian singer and songwriter. At age 16, she signed a two-album recording contract with Arista Records. Her debut studio album, ''Let Go (Avril Lavigne album), Let Go'' (2002), is the ...
,
Lindsay Lohan Lindsay Dee Lohan ( ; born July 2, 1986) is an American actress and singer. Born in New York City and raised on Long Island, Lohan was signed to Ford Models at the age of three. Having appeared as a regular on the television soap opera '' An ...
,
Alyssa Milano Alyssa Jayne Milano (born December 19, 1972) is an American actress. She has played Samantha Micelli in '' Who's the Boss?'', Jennifer Mancini in ''Melrose Place'', Phoebe Halliwell in ''Charmed'', Billie Cunningham in ''My Name Is Earl'', Savan ...
,
Katy Perry Katheryn Elizabeth Hudson (born October 25, 1984), known professionally as Katy Perry, is an American singer, songwriter, and television personality. Known for her influence on modern pop music and her Camp (style), campy style, she has been ...
,
Jessica Simpson Jessica Ann Simpson (born July 10, 1980) is an American singer, actress, entrepreneur and philanthropist. After performing in church choirs as a child, Simpson signed with Columbia Records in 1997, aged seventeen. Her debut studio album, '' Swe ...
,
Britney Spears Britney Jean Spears (born December 2, 1981) is an American singer. Often referred to as the " Princess of Pop", she is credited with influencing the revival of teen pop during the late 1990s and early 2000s. After appearing in stage productio ...
,
Kendall Jenner Kendall Nicole Jenner (born November 3, 1995) is an American model, media personality, and socialite. She is a daughter of Kris Jenner and Caitlyn Jenner, and rose to fame in the reality television show ''Keeping Up with the Kardashians.'' Je ...
and
Vanessa Williams Vanessa Lynn Williams (born March 18, 1963) is an American singer, actress, and fashion designer. She gained recognition as the first African-American woman to receive the Miss America title when she was crowned Miss America 1984. She resigne ...
. According to the ''New York Times'', until 2010 Proactiv infomercials were "fast-talking" and "hard-selling"; an announcer repeatedly advised viewers to "call now," and offered faster shipping if the order was placed within three minutes. As infomercials became less popular, Proactiv sales stalled. Since 2010 Guthy-Renker has tried to move the brand into the mainstream cosmetics market, focusing on quality rather than price. It began advertising on network television during shows like
American Idol ''American Idol'' is an American singing competition television series created by Simon Fuller, produced by Fremantle North America and 19 Entertainment, and distributed by Fremantle North America. It aired on Fox from June 11, 2002, to Ap ...
, and in ''Elle'', ''InStyle'' and ''People'' magazines. In 2012, the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) in the UK banned some of Proactiv's advertising as misleading. A viewer complained that the celebrities were likely to have used the US version of Proactiv, which differs from the UK version. According to the ASA, the celebrities had signed statements saying they had used the UK version for a few weeks one to three years earlier, but the advertisements gave the appearance that they had continued to benefit from it, so the viewer's complaint was upheld."ASA Ruling on Guthy-Renker UK Ltd"
Advertising Standards Authority, July 18, 2012.


Notes


References

{{portal, Companies Acne treatments Direct marketing Products introduced in 1995 Skin care brands