El Potrero Chico is an internationally renowned
rock climbing
Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and ...
area in the
Mexican state of
Nuevo León
Nuevo León () is a state in the northeast region of Mexico. The state was named after the New Kingdom of León, an administrative territory from the Viceroyalty of New Spain, itself was named after the historic Spanish Kingdom of León. With a ...
, outside the town of
Hidalgo
Hidalgo may refer to:
People
* Hidalgo (nobility), members of the Spanish nobility
* Hidalgo (surname)
Places
Mexico
* Hidalgo (state), in central Mexico
* Hidalgo, Coahuila, a town in the north Mexican state of Coahuila
* Hidalgo, Nuevo Leà ...
, within
Sierra del Fraile
The Sierra del Fraile (Spanish for "Friar's range"), also known as "Cerro del Fraile", is a mountain and a protected area located in the GarcÃa, Abasolo, Hidalgo, General Escobedo, El Carmen y Mina municipalities in the state of Nuevo León, ...
protected area
Protected areas or conservation areas are locations which receive protection because of their recognized natural, ecological or cultural values. There are several kinds of protected areas, which vary by level of protection depending on the ena ...
. El Potrero Chico is a unique geological formation of
limestone
Limestone ( calcium carbonate ) is a type of carbonate sedimentary rock which is the main source of the material lime. It is composed mostly of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different crystal forms of . Limestone forms whe ...
cliffs and spires, some as high as .
Rock climbing
There is a large range of different climbs, most of them in the 5.8 to 5.13 grade. The type of climbing can range from steep overhanging face to easy slab. The rock is usually quite sharp. The climbs are mostly situated in a canyon at the entrance of the park, while the interior offers undeveloped mountain terrain with many
mountain biking
Mountain biking is a sport of riding bicycles off-road, often over rough terrain, usually using specially designed mountain bikes. Mountain bikes share similarities with other bikes but incorporate features designed to enhance durability and pe ...
routes, ranging from very easy to expert options.
El Potrero draws rock-climbers from throughout Mexico and from around the world. It is considered one of the top 10 locations to
sport climb in the world. In addition to well over 500 routes, the area boasts the second longest sport route in North America, ''Timewave Zero'', with 23 pitches and over . New routes are continually being developed.
Rock climbers from
Austin, Texas
Austin is the capital city of the U.S. state of Texas, as well as the county seat, seat and largest city of Travis County, Texas, Travis County, with portions extending into Hays County, Texas, Hays and Williamson County, Texas, Williamson co ...
, notably, Jeff Jackson, Kevin Gallahger, Craig Pacinda, and Alex Catlin, along with Colorado climber Kurt Smith started developing the area in the 1990s. Development continued in the 21st century, notably by first accentionists Alex Catlin, Ed Wright, and Dane Bass. Many climbers have attempted to build bridges with the local community, but there remains much work to be done.
There are multiple guide books covering the area, some of which are linked under External Links below.
Conservation
The eventual status of the land is uncertain. Much of the area is a "protected zone" (not a Mexican national park), a legal classification of little actual consequence.
After the
Mexican Revolution
The Mexican Revolution ( es, Revolución Mexicana) was an extended sequence of armed regional conflicts in Mexico from approximately 1910 to 1920. It has been called "the defining event of modern Mexican history". It resulted in the destruction ...
of 1910, the land within the park was divided amongst the townspeople as per the
ejido
An ''ejido'' (, from Latin ''exitum'') is an area of communal land used for agriculture in which community members have usufruct rights rather than ownership rights to land, which in Mexico is held by the Mexican state. People awarded ejidos in ...
system. This means that the Hidalgo ejido commission currently owns and controls 99% of the climbing area.
Weather
The temperature can vary quite a lot from day to day and from sunny to shady areas. During the summer months however, it is recommended to climb in the shade only. Due to the shape of the canyon, the weather outside may be cloudy and raining, but sunny inside the potrero. It is always possible to find a shady area.
In the winter months, the usually daily high is about 18 degrees C° (64 F°) yet some days it can reach close to 25 C° (77 F°). The low is usually about 5-10 C° (41-50 F°), but snow is always possible.
Main climbing areas
Las Estrellas: Located on the east side of the main canyon. 5.9 to 5.12. Mostly single pitch climbs.
Club Mex: Home to a number of hard, single pitch climbs as well as the 8 pitch classic, Supernova (5.11a).
Mini super Wall: Directly across from the Central Scrutinizer Wall. The first handful of climbs encountered here are good warm up routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.9+. The route El Volvo Scorcho (5.9 and requires 9 quickdraws) is named after the car accident that almost killed the first ascentionist, Dane Bass.
Mota Wall: One of the most popular walls located on the Lower Sense of Religion. Mota Wall houses many of the classic climbs at El Potrero such as La Vaca and Double Cherry Pie.
Easily accessed area. Many easy to medium range climbs.
Mileski Wall: Above the Mota Wall. Hard overhanging climbs.
The spires: Very popular areas. Two rock horns about 200' tall on the west side of the canyon.
Outrage Wall: Many beautiful climbs in the mid 10s to 12 range.
The Surf: 15 minutes walk from the spires, hard overhanging from 5.12a to 5.13b.
Central Srutinizer, Virgin canyon: West of the canyon.
El Sendero Luminoso: This area is found before entering the main canyon, on the west side. It
is where the climb ''
El Sendero Luminoso'' a long difficult route with 10 pitches of 5.12, is situated (15 pitches).
Wonder Wall: This new wall is located inside the swimming pool complex. These routes are up the stairs by the B-BQ grills. They range from 5.6 to 5.11b, but most routes are in the 9 and 10 range.
Multi-Pitch Climbs
Yankee Clipper - 15 Pitches (5.8 to 5.12c) http://www.elpotrerochicoguides.com/yankee-clipper
Snott Girlz - 7 Pitches (5.9 to 5.10+)
Timewave Zero - 23 Pitches (5.7 to 5.12) http://www.elpotrerochicoguides.com/time-wave-zero
Pancho Villa Rides Again - 5 Pitches (5.9 to 5.11d)
Treasure of Sierra Madre - 7 Pitches (5.7 to 5.10c)
Estrellita - 12 Pitches (5.7 to 5.10b)
http://www.elpotrerochicoguides.com/estrellita
Agua De Coco - 3 Pitches (5.10a to 5.10d)
Black Cat Bone - 9 Pitches (5.6 to 5.10d)
Space Boyz - 11 Pitches (5.8 to 5.10d) http://www.elpotrerochicoguides.com/space-boyz
The Devil's Tongue - 3 pitches (5.9 to 5.12a)
Supernova - 8 pitches (5.6 to 5.11a, more pitches being added)
Access Denied - 4 Pitches (5.9 to 5.10c)
Dope Ninja - 6 Pitches (5.6 to 5.10)
Other climbing areas near Monterrey
*
La Huasteca
La Huasteca is a geographical and cultural region located partially along the Gulf of Mexico and including parts of the states of Tamaulipas, Veracruz, Puebla, Hidalgo, San Luis PotosÃ, Querétaro and Guanajuato. It is roughly defined as the area ...
*
El Salto
*Culo de Gato
*Puente de Dios
Cubia Cave
External links
Potrero Chico Online GuidePotrero Chico Climbing GuidebookMountain Project: Potrero Chico
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Climbing areas of Mexico
Climbing areas of Nuevo León
Landforms of Nuevo León
Tourist attractions in Nuevo León
Rock formations of Mexico