Pioneer Courthouse Square, also known as Portland's living room,
is a
public space
A public space is a place that is open and accessible to the general public. Roads (including the pavement), public squares, parks, and beaches are typically considered public space. To a limited extent, government buildings which are open to ...
occupying a full
city block
A city block, residential block, urban block, or simply block is a central element of urban planning and urban design.
A city block is the smallest group of buildings that is surrounded by streets, not counting any type of thoroughfare within t ...
in the center of
downtown
''Downtown'' is a term primarily used in North America by English speakers to refer to a city's sometimes commercial, cultural and often the historical, political and geographic heart. It is often synonymous with its central business distric ...
Portland
Portland most commonly refers to:
* Portland, Oregon, the largest city in the state of Oregon, in the Pacific Northwest region of the United States
* Portland, Maine, the largest city in the state of Maine, in the New England region of the northeas ...
,
Oregon
Oregon () is a U.S. state, state in the Pacific Northwest region of the Western United States. The Columbia River delineates much of Oregon's northern boundary with Washington (state), Washington, while the Snake River delineates much of it ...
,
United States
The United States of America (U.S.A. or USA), commonly known as the United States (U.S. or US) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It consists of 50 states, a federal district, five major unincorporated territorie ...
. Opened in 1984, the square is bounded by Southwest Morrison Street on the north, Southwest 6th Avenue on the east, Southwest Yamhill Street on the south, and
Southwest Broadway on the west.
History
School and hotel
The city has owned the block since 1856, when Portland bought land that included the site, as the location for its Central School. The district financed its construction at Sixth and Morrison by suspending school operations for a year.
In 1884 investor
Henry Villard
Henry Villard (April 10, 1835 – November 12, 1900) was an American journalist and financier who was an early president of the Northern Pacific Railway.
Born and raised by Ferdinand Heinrich Gustav Hilgard in the Rhenish Palatinate of the Kin ...
came to Portland, looking for business support for a railroad hotel associated with his newly acquired
Northern Pacific Railway
The Northern Pacific Railway was a transcontinental railroad that operated across the northern tier of the western United States, from Minnesota to the Pacific Northwest. It was approved by Congress in 1864 and given nearly of land grants, whic ...
.
Philip A. Marquam contributed to the project by buying the school, clearing the site, moving the school to SW 6th and Alder, re-fitting it, and giving it back to the school district. It stood until 1910.
[P.A. Marquam Dies on Wedding Date; Pioneering Jurist of Portland Passes on 59th Anniversary of Marriage]
(May 9, 1912). ''The Morning Oregonian
''The Oregonian'' is a daily newspaper based in Portland, Oregon, United States, owned by Advance Publications. It is the oldest continuously published newspaper on the U.S. west coast, founded as a weekly by Thomas J. Dryer on December 4, 1850 ...
'', p. 4.
Villard hired the firm of
McKim, Mead & White
McKim, Mead & White was an American architectural firm that came to define architectural practice, urbanism, and the ideals of the American Renaissance in fin de siècle New York. The firm's founding partners Charles Follen McKim (1847–1909), Wil ...
and its employee
William M. Whidden William Marcy Whidden (February 10, 1857 – July 27, 1929) was a founding member of Whidden & Lewis, a prominent architectural firm in Portland, Oregon, United States.
Early life
William Whidden was born on February 10, 1857, in Boston, Massachu ...
to design the hotel, rising six stories to an attic with elaborate dormers, in an H-shaped plan with its main gated courtyard facing the
Pioneer Courthouse
The Pioneer Courthouse is a federal courthouse in Portland, Oregon, United States. Built beginning in 1869, the structure is the oldest federal building in the Pacific Northwest, and the second-oldest west of the Mississippi River.
Along with ...
, the landmark 1875 federal building directly to the east. Villard's financial reverses forced him to withdraw. Local leaders re-organized the project in 1888 and contacted Widden, who came west and partnered with
Ion Lewis Ion Lewis (1858-1933) was a founding member of a Portland architectural firm Whidden & Lewis that was formed around the beginning of the 20th century. The firm was formed with partner William M. Whidden. Their residential buildings were mostly in t ...
to complete the job in 1890.
The hotel was the center of the city's social activity for the first half of the 20th century.
In 1951, the hotel was torn down and a two-story parking lot was built.
Civic square
An 800-car parking garage was proposed to the Portland Planning Commission in January 1969, but the commission rejected the idea, instead calling for a public plaza.
In the early 1970s, a comprehensive downtown plan proposed that the site become dedicated public space. In 1975, Mayor
Neil Goldschmidt
Neil Edward Goldschmidt (born June 16, 1940) is an American businessman and Democratic politician from the state of Oregon who held local, state and federal offices over three decades. After serving as the United States Secretary of Transportat ...
began negotiating with local department store
Meier & Frank
Meier & Frank was a prominent chain of department stores founded in Portland, Oregon, and later bought by The May Department Stores Company. Meier & Frank operated in the Pacific Northwest from 1857 to 2006.
History Summary
Meier & Frank was f ...
to obtain the property for the city, and eventually convinced the store to sell the land to the city after its parking concerns were alleviated.
By early 1980, a design competition was announced, seeking proposals for what was to become Pioneer Courthouse Square. Out of 162 submissions, five finalists were chosen, from firms based in
New York City
New York, often called New York City or NYC, is the List of United States cities by population, most populous city in the United States. With a 2020 population of 8,804,190 distributed over , New York City is also the L ...
,
Philadelphia
Philadelphia, often called Philly, is the largest city in the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, the sixth-largest city in the U.S., the second-largest city in both the Northeast megalopolis and Mid-Atlantic regions after New York City. Sinc ...
,
San Francisco
San Francisco (; Spanish language, Spanish for "Francis of Assisi, Saint Francis"), officially the City and County of San Francisco, is the commercial, financial, and cultural center of Northern California. The city proper is the List of Ca ...
/
Los Angeles
Los Angeles ( ; es, Los Ángeles, link=no , ), often referred to by its initials L.A., is the largest city in the state of California and the second most populous city in the United States after New York City, as well as one of the world' ...
,
Boston
Boston (), officially the City of Boston, is the state capital and most populous city of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, as well as the cultural and financial center of the New England region of the United States. It is the 24th- mo ...
, and Portland. The Portland team, an interdisciplinary "group of rabble-raising architects, writers, and an artist" consisting of chief designer and architect Willard Martin, landscape architect Douglas Macy, sculptor Lee Kelly, sculptor, historian Terrence O’Donnell, graphic artist Robert Reynolds, and writer Spencer Gill, were chosen as the winners by the City Council in May 1980. Their design received an "Architectural Design Citation" from ''
Progressive Architecture The Progressive Architecture Awards (P/A Awards) annually recognise risk-taking practitioners and seek to promote progress in the field of architecture.
History
The editors of ''Progressive Architecture'' magazine hosted the first Progressive Arch ...
'' magazine in 1981.
Remnants of the hotel, an original archway and iron gatework,
are found today on the east side of the square.
Funding problems surfaced after the design was completed. Portland Mayor
Frank Ivancie
Francis James Ivancie (July 19, 1924 – May 2, 2019) was an American businessman and politician who served as mayor of Portland, Oregon, from 1980 to 1985. Prior to his term as mayor, Ivancie served for fourteen years on the Portland City Counc ...
led a group of downtown business owners in advocating a closed structure, in order to prevent
transients
Transience or transient may refer to:
Music
* ''Transient'' (album), a 2004 album by Gaelle
* ''Transience'' (Steven Wilson album), 2015
* Transience (Wreckless Eric album)
Science and engineering
* Transient state, when a process variable or ...
from congregating in the area.
Former Governor
Tom McCall
Thomas Lawson McCall (March 22, 1913 January 8, 1983) was an American statesman, politician and journalist in the state of Oregon. A Republican, he was the state's thirtieth governor from 1967 to 1975. A native of Massachusetts, McCall grew up th ...
, then a television commentator, was indignant: "It would be a shock ... to learn that a few
power broker
In political science, a power broker is a person who influences people to vote towards a particular client (i.e. elected official or referendum) in exchange for political and financial benefits. Power brokers can also negotiate deals with other p ...
s have decreed that the result of the nationwide design rivalry is meaningless..."
The square's construction required $3 million for land acquisition and $4.3 million for the structures and amenities, a large enough amount that Ivancie's opposition nearly doomed the project. Martin, together with other architects and volunteers, drew attention to the delays from the opposition by painting a stylized
blueprint
A blueprint is a reproduction of a technical drawing or engineering drawing using a contact print process on light-sensitive sheets. Introduced by Sir John Herschel in 1842, the process allowed rapid and accurate production of an unlimited number ...
of the proposal on the site itself. But it took the formation of "Friends of Pioneer Square", a citizens' group led by city commissioners
Charles Ray Jordan
Charles Ray Jordan (September 1, 1937 April 4, 2014) was a Portland City Commissioner from 1974 until 1984. He was the first African-American city commissioner in Portland, Oregon, and is the namesake of the Charles Jordan Community Center.
Ea ...
and
Mike Lindberg
Mike Lindberg (born January 1941) is an American politician who served on the Portland, Oregon City Council from 1979 until 1996. His tenure of 17 years, three months was the longest of any city commissioner in the past 40 years, as of 2009; Lind ...
, and $750,000 raised by the sale of 50,000 inscribed bricks, to rescue the project.
The square opened on April 6, 1984, with an inaugural celebration that attracted more than 10,000 people.
[Gragg, Randy (April 4, 1994). "Pioneer Courthouse Square: Soul of the City" (10th anniversary feature). '']The Oregonian
''The Oregonian'' is a daily newspaper based in Portland, Oregon, United States, owned by Advance Publications. It is the oldest continuously published newspaper on the U.S. west coast, founded as a weekly by Thomas J. Dryer on December 4, 185 ...
'', pp. A1, A6. The square is owned by the city of Portland and is a city park.
Recent history
By October 1988, when the square's fountain was turned over to the
Portland Water Bureau
The Portland Water Bureau is the municipal water department for the city of Portland in the U.S. state of Oregon. The bureau manages a water supply that comes mainly from the Bull Run River in the foothills of the Cascade Range east of the city a ...
, it already needed repairs.
''
The Oregonian
''The Oregonian'' is a daily newspaper based in Portland, Oregon, United States, owned by Advance Publications. It is the oldest continuously published newspaper on the U.S. west coast, founded as a weekly by Thomas J. Dryer on December 4, 185 ...
'' called it "a leaker with corroding drain lines".
Repair work was undertaken in 1995, during which the purple tiles that had originally surfaced the fountain were replaced with granite veneer.
The fountain received another overhaul in 2006, but without any change to its appearance.
[
In 1989, a ]Starbucks
Starbucks Corporation is an American multinational chain of coffeehouses and roastery reserves headquartered in Seattle, Washington. It is the world's largest coffeehouse chain.
As of November 2021, the company had 33,833 stores in 80 c ...
coffeehouse opened at the northwest corner of the square, replacing a series of failed restaurants at the same location. Still in existence, this was the company's first Oregon outlet and its 40th overall.
In 2001, the completion of Fox Tower
The Fox Tower is a 27-story, office skyscraper in downtown Portland, Oregon, along Broadway between Yamhill and Morrison streets. The tower was completed in 2000 at a cost of $64 million, and was named after the Fox Theatre that occupied the s ...
, a skyscraper on the block immediately southwest of the square, caused controversy among citizens because it blocks sunlight from reaching the majority of the square during the afternoon and evening hours.
In 2002, the organization controlling the square had plans to add a large ice skating rink for four months of the year, at a cost of $12 million. The Pioneer Square group and Project for Public Spaces
Project for Public Spaces (PPS) is a nonprofit organization based in New York City, New York dedicated to creating and sustaining public places that build community, communities, in an effort often termed placemaking.
Planning and design rooted i ...
thought the rink would make the square more active in the winter months, and had funding pledged by ''The Oregonian
''The Oregonian'' is a daily newspaper based in Portland, Oregon, United States, owned by Advance Publications. It is the oldest continuously published newspaper on the U.S. west coast, founded as a weekly by Thomas J. Dryer on December 4, 185 ...
'' and Wells Fargo Bank
Wells Fargo & Company is an American multinational financial services company with corporate headquarters in San Francisco, California; operational headquarters in Manhattan; and managerial offices throughout the United States and inter ...
. There was a strong negative reaction, as admission would be charged, violating the free-speech ethos of the square and its design. As Park Block 5 was being designed, many felt the ice rink should be placed there instead.
On November 26, 2010, the square was the site of an attempted car bombing. Mohamed Osman Mohamud, a Somali-American
Somali Americans are Americans of Somali ancestry. The first ethnic Somalis to arrive in the U.S. were sailors who came in the 1920s from British Somaliland. They were followed by students pursuing higher studies in the 1960s and 1970s, by the l ...
student, was arrested after attempting to set off what he thought was a car bomb
A car bomb, bus bomb, lorry bomb, or truck bomb, also known as a vehicle-borne improvised explosive device (VBIED), is an improvised explosive device designed to be detonated in an automobile or other vehicles.
Car bombs can be roughly divided ...
at a Christmas tree lighting ceremony. It turned out the bomb was inert and was part of an FBI sting operation
In law enforcement, a sting operation is a deceptive operation designed to catch a person attempting to commit a crime. A typical sting will have an undercover law enforcement officer, detective, or co-operative member of the public play a role a ...
.[Associated Press (November 27, 2010)]
Somali-born teen nabbed in Oregon bomb plot.
''USA Today
''USA Today'' (stylized in all uppercase) is an American daily middle-market newspaper and news broadcasting company. Founded by Al Neuharth on September 15, 1982, the newspaper operates from Gannett's corporate headquarters in Tysons, Virgini ...
''[Staff report (November 27, 2010)]
US 'foils Oregon bomb plot.'
''Al-Jazeera
Al Jazeera ( ar, الجزيرة, translit-std=DIN, translit=al-jazīrah, , "The Island") is a state-owned Arabic-language international radio and TV broadcaster of Qatar. It is based in Doha and operated by the media conglomerate Al Jazeera ...
'' He was charged with attempting to use a weapon of mass destruction
A weapon of mass destruction (WMD) is a chemical, biological, radiological, nuclear, or any other weapon that can kill and bring significant harm to numerous individuals or cause great damage to artificial structures (e.g., buildings), natura ...
.[BBC staff report (November 27, 2010)]
US teenager held in Oregon over Christmas 'bomb plot.'
BBC #REDIRECT BBC #REDIRECT BBC #REDIRECT BBC
Here i going to introduce about the best teacher of my life b BALAJI sir. He is the precious gift that I got befor 2yrs . How has helped and thought all the concept and made my success in the 10th board ex ...
In October 2014, Mohamud was sentenced to 30 years in federal prison along with credit for time served since his arrest, as well as lifetime supervision upon his scheduled release in 2037.
Features and use
On Morrison and Yamhill streets (the north and south boundaries of the square) are sheltered MAX Light Rail
The Metropolitan Area Express (MAX) is a light rail system serving the Portland metropolitan area in the U.S. state of Oregon. Owned and operated by TriMet, it consists of five color-designated lines that altogether connect the six sections ...
stops. On the north side is an artistic feature, consisting of towering classical columns which progressively topple over like those of an ancient ruin. There are outdoor chess
Chess is a board game for two players, called White and Black, each controlling an army of chess pieces in their color, with the objective to checkmate the opponent's king. It is sometimes called international chess or Western chess to disti ...
tables on some of the toppled columns; chess players frequently congregate there during the day. A fountain, taking the form of a cascading waterfall, on the west side of the square frames the entrance to a public information center and TriMet
TriMet, formally known as the Tri-County Metropolitan Transportation District of Oregon, is a public agency that operates mass transit in a region that spans most of the Portland metropolitan area in the U.S. state of Oregon. Created in 1969 ...
ticket office. The center of the square is arranged like an amphitheater
An amphitheatre (British English) or amphitheater (American English; both ) is an open-air venue used for entertainment, performances, and sports. The term derives from the ancient Greek ('), from ('), meaning "on both sides" or "around" and ...
, with a semicircle of approximately two dozen steps serving as seats when the square is used for musical performances or other events. Pioneer Courthouse Square was a designated non-smoking area as of January 1, 2007.
The bricks used to pave the square were sold to raise funds for the square's construction, and are inscribed with donors' names. However, the bricks were not laid in any discernible order, so people looking for a particular brick must spend time walking around the park, head down. This leads to collisions with others looking for their bricks, and gave the park its nickname, "Bang Heads Park". Eric Ladd, an "early pioneer of…sustainable living," built the wrought-iron gateway on the eastern edge of the square in the 1970s, out of scrap salvaged from the Portland Hotel.
For almost 20 years, commercial space at the square's south end was occupied by a branch of Powell's Books
Powell's Books is a chain of bookstores in Portland, Oregon, and its surrounding metropolitan area. Powell's headquarters, dubbed Powell's City of Books, claims to be the largest independent new and used bookstore in the world. Powell's City of ...
. Opened in September 1985,[Nkrumah, Wade (February 7, 2005). "Food carts at Pioneer Square may be ousted". ''The Oregonian'', p. C1.] it was called Powell's Travel Store and was focused exclusively on travel-related literature and supplies. The store closed at the end of January 2005, and the space was then vacant for an extended period, until KGW-TV
KGW (channel 8) is a television station in Portland, Oregon, United States, affiliated with NBC and owned by Tegna Inc. The station's studios are located on Jefferson Street in southwestern Portland, and its transmitter is located in the city's ...
, Portland's NBC
The National Broadcasting Company (NBC) is an Television in the United States, American English-language Commercial broadcasting, commercial television network, broadcast television and radio network. The flagship property of the NBC Enterta ...
affiliate, began leasing it in early 2008, with plans to construct a studio there.
In March 2009, KGW opened a high-definition news studio at the square, which it uses to broadcast its morning, noon and 7 p.m. newscasts. Regular broadcasts from the location began on March 17, 2009, with the 4:30 a.m. newscast. The space occupied by KGW is approximately in area and underground, with a small window area near the square's 6th and Yamhill corner.[
The square costs the city an estimated $1.2 million per year, mostly for security, cleanup, and events.
]
Art
One of the more recognized pieces of public art in Portland is Seward Johnson's '' Allow Me'', commonly referred to as ''Umbrella Man''. It is on the south side of the square, just above the amphitheater. ''Allow Me'' is a bronze
Bronze is an alloy consisting primarily of copper, commonly with about 12–12.5% tin and often with the addition of other metals (including aluminium, manganese, nickel, or zinc) and sometimes non-metals, such as phosphorus, or metalloids such ...
statue of a man in a business suit holding an umbrella.
''Weather Machine
''Weather Machine'' is a Lumino kinetic art, lumino kinetic bronze sculpture and columnar machine that serves as a weather beacon, displaying a weather prediction each day at noon. Designed and constructed by Omen Design Group Inc., the approxi ...
'', a metal column topped with a large silver-colored orb, was installed in August 1988. At noon each day, the following day's weather is announced with a fanfare
A fanfare (or fanfarade or flourish) is a short musical flourish which is typically played by trumpets, French horns or other brass instruments, often accompanied by percussion. It is a "brief improvised introduction to an instrumental perfo ...
of trumpets, flashing lights, and a spray of mist. The orb opens to reveal one of the following:
*a golden leaf sun, for a clear day;
*a silver great blue heron
The great blue heron (''Ardea herodias'') is a large wading bird in the heron family Ardeidae, common near the shores of open water and in wetlands over most of North America and Central America, as well as the Caribbean and the Galápagos ...
, to forecast a drizzly, misty, or overcast day;
*an open-mouthed copper dragon
A dragon is a reptilian legendary creature that appears in the folklore of many cultures worldwide. Beliefs about dragons vary considerably through regions, but dragons in western cultures since the High Middle Ages have often been depicted as ...
, when storms are forecast.
Light bulbs on the side of the machine are reminiscent of a mercury thermometer and light up progressively as the temperature increases.
Events
Dozens of events are held at the square each year, including free shows during spring and summer, sponsored by local businesses. Events held in the square are usually all-ages
A family-friendly product or service is one that is considered to be suitable for all members of an average family. Family-friendly restaurants are ones that provide service to families that have young children. Frequently, family-friendly produc ...
. In 2006, the square was the site of an all-city pillow fight, and later an all-city slumber party. Pioneer Courthouse Square is a venue for speeches, political demonstrations, rallies and vigils. By Thanksgiving, a tall Christmas tree occupies the center of the square, with a tree-lighting ceremony held each year on the Friday evening after Thanksgiving. Another Christmas event in the square is Tuba Christmas. This is a celebration featuring 200–300 tuba and euphonium players who perform a medley of holiday songs, and was first held in 1991. An annual New Year's Eve celebration is also held there.
On January 12, 1991, Pioneer Courthouse Square held one of the largest gatherings in its history, when a crowd estimated at more than 12,000[Danks, Holly (January 13, 1991). "Throngs demand peace in Gulf". ''The Sunday Oregonian'', p. 1. Excerpt: "'It's definitely the biggest crowd we've ever had in Pioneer Square', said Steve Cohen, the square's program director, who estimated attendance at easily more than 12,000."] attended an anti-war rally protesting the country's involvement in the Gulf War
The Gulf War was a 1990–1991 armed campaign waged by a 35-country military coalition in response to the Iraqi invasion of Kuwait. Spearheaded by the United States, the coalition's efforts against Iraq were carried out in two key phases: ...
, packing the square and overflowing onto the surrounding streets, which police temporarily closed to traffic.
Reception
In 2006, architect Laurie Olin
Laurie Olin (born 1938, Marshfield, Wisconsin) is an American landscape architect. He has worked on landscape design projects at diverse scales, from private residential gardens to public parks and corporate/museum campus plans.
Early life
Olin g ...
described Pioneer Courthouse Square, stating "you really can't sit in the shade in Pioneer Square. It's not quiet. The fountain looks like a Postmodern
Postmodernism is an intellectual stance or mode of discourseNuyen, A.T., 1992. The Role of Rhetorical Devices in Postmodernist Discourse. Philosophy & Rhetoric, pp.183–194. characterized by skepticism toward the " grand narratives" of moderni ...
pit. It is intended to be a citywide park. It needs big, empty spaces. If it's empty, then irector Park!-- Olin didn't use the words "Director Park" --> should be full."
In 2004, the square was ranked as the world's fourth-best public park by Project for Public Spaces
Project for Public Spaces (PPS) is a nonprofit organization based in New York City, New York dedicated to creating and sustaining public places that build community, communities, in an effort often termed placemaking.
Planning and design rooted i ...
, bested only by two squares in Venice and one in Siena
Siena ( , ; lat, Sena Iulia) is a city in Tuscany, Italy. It is the capital of the province of Siena.
The city is historically linked to commercial and banking activities, having been a major banking center until the 13th and 14th centuri ...
, Italy.
Project for Public Spaces ranked it the third best public square in North America in 2005 after New York City's Rockefeller Plaza
Rockefeller Center is a large complex consisting of 19 commerce, commercial buildings covering between 48th Street (Manhattan), 48th Street and 51st Street (Manhattan), 51st Street in Midtown Manhattan, New York City. The 14 original Art Deco ...
and New Orlean's Jackson Square.
The American Planning Association
The American Planning Association (APA) is a professional organization representing the field of urban planning in the United States. APA was formed in 1978, when two separate professional planning organizations, the American Institute of Pla ...
designated Pioneer Courthouse Square as one of 10 Great Public Spaces in 2008.
Further reading
*''Frozen Music: A History of Portland Architecture'', (1985, )
References
External links
Official website
for non-profit organization managing the square
Information on the Square
from the Portland Parks & Recreation
Portland Parks & Recreation (PP&R) is a Bureau of the City of Portland, Oregon that manages the city parks, natural areas, recreational facilities, gardens, and trails. The properties, which occupy a total of more than . The bureau employs a total ...
website
Pioneer Courthouse Square wins honor
- ''Portland Business Journal''
{{Coord, 45.51887, -122.6793, type:landmark_region:US-OR_source:googlemapssatellite_scale:5000_elevation:18, display=title
1984 establishments in Oregon
Busking venues
Parks in Portland, Oregon
Postmodern architecture in Oregon
Protected areas established in 1984
Southwest Portland, Oregon
Squares in Oregon