Peak Talgar ( kk, Талғар шыңы ''Talğar Şyñy''; russian: Пик Талгар, Pik Talgar) is a northern peak in the
Tian Shan
The Tian Shan,, , otk, 𐰴𐰣 𐱅𐰭𐰼𐰃, , tr, Tanrı Dağı, mn, Тэнгэр уул, , ug, تەڭرىتاغ, , , kk, Тәңіртауы / Алатау, , , ky, Теңир-Тоо / Ала-Тоо, , , uz, Tyan-Shan / Tangritog‘ ...
mountain range in
Kazakhstan
Kazakhstan, officially the Republic of Kazakhstan, is a transcontinental country located mainly in Central Asia and partly in Eastern Europe. It borders Russia to the north and west, China to the east, Kyrgyzstan to the southeast, Uzbeki ...
, named after
Talgar
Talgar ( kk, Талғар, translit=Talğar, ; russian: Талгар) is a town in Almaty Region, southeastern Kazakhstan. It is the administrative center of Talgar District. The town is located between Almaty and Esik, 25 km from Almaty an ...
river and city. It is the highest peak of the
Trans-Ili Alatau
Ile Alatau ( kk, Ile Alatauy, ''Іле Алатауы''), also spelt as Trans-Ili Alatau, is a part of the Northern Tian Shan mountain system (ancient Mount Imeon) in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. It is the northernmost mountain range of Tian Shan st ...
. Due to its close proximity to the former capital of Kazakhstan,
Almaty
Almaty (; kk, Алматы; ), formerly known as Alma-Ata ( kk, Алма-Ата), is the List of most populous cities in Kazakhstan, largest city in Kazakhstan, with a population of about 2 million. It was the capital of Kazakhstan from 1929 to ...
, it is a popular mountaineering destination.
Sources differ on Peak Talgar's elevation, but the 4,979 m height is widely quoted.
The summit has precipitous slopes, especially in the west, crevasses and buttresses packed with snow and ice.
On the southern slopes of the Talgar massif is the largest glacier in the Trans-Ili Alatau - the Korzhnevsky glacier. The length of the glacier is about 12 km. The snow boundary on the northern slopes passes at about 3,700-3,900 m.
History
In 1935 H. Rakhimov's group approached Talgar Peak, climbing from the north to the shoulder of the massif, the reached place was named Kopr.
The first ascent to the main summit of Talgar Peak was made in 1938 by a group from Stalinsk (now Novokuznetsk) consisting of L. Kutukhtin, G. Makarov, and I. Kropotov. A local veteran climber A.E. Kolokolnikov gave a detailed description of Talgar Peak.
In 1958 the group led by Snesarev passes one of the most difficult routes to date, to Talgar Peak on the west face to the south top. Later on this wall two more routes 5B of the touring group and the route of 1966 by M.Akimenkov and I.Meshkov's group, passed in 1978, will be done.
Since 1939, in the gorge of the Middle Talgar River, there was a climbing camp "Metallurg", later renamed "Talgar". The camp existed almost until 1990. During this time, 11 routes were laid to the top of Talgar, not counting the very beautiful and diverse paths to nearby peaks, such as Metallurg (4600m), Kopr (4631m), Chekist (4550m), Aktau (4686m), Sportivnaya (4117m) ), Karaulchatau (4504m).
See also
*
List of Ultras of Central Asia
*
Talgar
Talgar ( kk, Талғар, translit=Talğar, ; russian: Талгар) is a town in Almaty Region, southeastern Kazakhstan. It is the administrative center of Talgar District. The town is located between Almaty and Esik, 25 km from Almaty an ...
References
External links
"Pik Talghar, Kazakhstan" on Peakbagger
Talgar
Talgar ( kk, Талғар, translit=Talğar, ; russian: Талгар) is a town in Almaty Region, southeastern Kazakhstan. It is the administrative center of Talgar District. The town is located between Almaty and Esik, 25 km from Almaty an ...
Four-thousanders of the Tian Shan
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