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Petrolia is an
unincorporated community An unincorporated area is a region that is not governed by a local municipal corporation. Widespread unincorporated communities and areas are a distinguishing feature of the United States and Canada. Most other countries of the world either have ...
in Humboldt County,
California California is a U.S. state, state in the Western United States, located along the West Coast of the United States, Pacific Coast. With nearly 39.2million residents across a total area of approximately , it is the List of states and territori ...
, northeast of
Cape Mendocino Cape Mendocino (Spanish: ''Cabo Mendocino'', meaning "Cape of Mendoza"), which is located approximately north of San Francisco, is located on the Lost Coast entirely within Humboldt County, California, United States. At 124° 24' 34" W longitude ...
, at an elevation of above sea level, within ZIP Code 95558, and
area code 707 Area code 707 is a telephone area code in the North American Numbering Plan (NANP) for the northwestern part of the U.S. state of California. It was created by a split of area code 415 on March 1, 1959. It serves part of the northern San Francisco ...
. Petrolia was the site of the first oil well drilled in California.


Description

Petrolia has an estimated population of 300-500 people within a 15-mile radius. It is located in the Mattole Valley, part of the
Lost Coast The Lost Coast is a mostly natural and undeveloped area of the California North Coast in Humboldt and Mendocino Counties, which includes the King Range. It was named the "Lost Coast" after the area experienced depopulation in the 1930s. In add ...
region, one of the largest wilderness areas and the longest stretch of undeveloped coastline in the continental United States. Petrolia's isolation is due to its position on the rocky, treacherous coastline adjacent to the King Range mountains that isolate this area from mainland California and continue to leave the area almost completely undeveloped. A travel magazine has called this area "too lovely to be believed, perhaps too beautiful to last." It has been recognized as the top "still wild" place in California. The area is the only significant stretch of California without a shoreline highway, and so far has "thus escaped tourism's aggressive paws." The of steep roadways beneath the King Range Mountains include towering Douglas-firs, a few coastal redwoods around the upper reaches of the Mattole River, rocky shorelines, and black sand beaches, as well as a menagerie of fauna, including black bears,
black-tailed deer Two forms of black-tailed deer or blacktail deer that occupy coastal woodlands in the Pacific Northwest of North America are subspecies of the mule deer (''Odocoileus hemionus''). They have sometimes been treated as a species, but virtually all r ...
, river otter,
California quail The California quail (''Callipepla californica''), also known as the California valley quail or Valley quail, is a small ground-dwelling bird in the New World quail family. These birds have a curving crest or '' plume'', made of six feathers, tha ...
,
bobcat The bobcat (''Lynx rufus''), also known as the red lynx, is a medium-sized cat native to North America. It ranges from southern Canada through most of the contiguous United States to Oaxaca in Mexico. It is listed as Least Concern on the IUC ...
and
porcupine Porcupines are large rodents with coats of sharp spines, or quills, that protect them against predation. The term covers two families of animals: the Old World porcupines of family Hystricidae, and the New World porcupines of family, Erethizont ...
, reptiles such as
rattlesnakes Rattlesnakes are venomous snakes that form the genera ''Crotalus'' and ''Sistrurus'' of the subfamily Crotalinae (the pit vipers). All rattlesnakes are vipers. Rattlesnakes are predators that live in a wide array of habitats, hunting small anima ...
,
western fence lizard The western fence lizard (''Sceloporus occidentalis'') is a common lizard of Arizona, New Mexico, California, Idaho, Nevada, Oregon, Utah, Washington (state), Washington, Northern Mexico, and the surrounding area. As the ventral abdomen of an ad ...
s and
alligator lizards An alligator lizard is any one of various species of lizards in the family Anguidae that have some shared characteristics. The term may specifically refer to: Species of the genus ''Elgaria'': * Northern alligator lizard (''Elgaria coerulea'') ...
, various amphibians and
bald eagle The bald eagle (''Haliaeetus leucocephalus'') is a bird of prey found in North America. A sea eagle, it has two known subspecies and forms a species pair with the white-tailed eagle (''Haliaeetus albicilla''), which occupies the same niche as ...
s. Petrolia has been described as "a river valley town with Norman Rockwell flavor." Petrolia is from the Pacific Ocean at the north end of the section of beach protected by the
King Range National Conservation Area The King Range is a mountain range of the Outer Northern California Coast Ranges System, located entirely within Humboldt County on the North Coast of California. Geography Much of the mountain range's area is protected within the King Range N ...
and Sinkyone Wilderness State Park; the Punta Gorda Light location is about 3 miles down the coast from Mattole Beach parking. The Mattole River is home to a variety of California wildlife, including river otters,
steelhead trout Steelhead, or occasionally steelhead trout, is the common name of the anadromous form of the coastal rainbow trout or redband trout (O. m. gairdneri). Steelhead are native to cold-water tributaries of the Pacific basin in Northeast Asia and N ...
, more than 250 bird species, and a threatened
salmon Salmon () is the common name for several list of commercially important fish species, commercially important species of euryhaline ray-finned fish from the family (biology), family Salmonidae, which are native to tributary, tributaries of the ...
that was the subject of a book about the community's attempts over two decades to preserve the Mattole salmon. It is one of the few remaining areas with virgin old-growth stands of
Douglas-fir The Douglas fir (''Pseudotsuga menziesii'') is an evergreen conifer species in the pine family, Pinaceae. It is native to western North America and is also known as Douglas-fir, Douglas spruce, Oregon pine, and Columbian pine. There are three va ...
.


Geography and climate

Petrolia is located near the
Mendocino Triple Junction The Mendocino Triple Junction (MTJ) is the point where the Gorda plate, the North American plate, and the Pacific plate meet, in the Pacific Ocean near Cape Mendocino in northern California. This triple junction is the location of a change in the ...
, where three fault lines meet, and experiences frequent earthquake activity. The last large earthquake to affect the area was a
magnitude Magnitude may refer to: Mathematics *Euclidean vector, a quantity defined by both its magnitude and its direction *Magnitude (mathematics), the relative size of an object *Norm (mathematics), a term for the size or length of a vector *Order of ...
7.1 earthquake in 1992, which resulted in a fire that destroyed the Petrolia General Store. Note photos of cracks in the Mattole Road as well as damage to buildings and landslides. The store was rebuilt but lacks the charm of the 100-year-old landmark that it replaced. Two of the remaining landmarks in Petrolia are a small wooden church dating from 1912—St. Patrick's Catholic Church—and the Petrolia Pioneer Cemetery, which has the graves of original residents of Petrolia dating from November 1857. On the evening of March 9, 2014, a magnitude 6.9 earthquake struck approximately 50 miles to the west. It was widely felt, yet caused little to no damage, nor did it generate a tsunami. The lack of any significant damage or land deformation was attributed to the shallow strike-slip fault movement in deep (3000m) water. In 2010 two other large quakes had hit the area, a 6.5 on January 9 and a 5.9 on February 3; neither caused any deaths, but the January quake was reported to have caused damage throughout the area. The weather in Petrolia is temperate. The town is located in a banana belt that is sheltered from the fog that reaches Eureka and some of the northern towns, such as
Arcata Arcata (; Wiyot: ''Goudi’ni''; Yurok: ''Oket'oh'') is a city adjacent to the Arcata Bay (northern) portion of Humboldt Bay in Humboldt County, California, United States. At the 2020 census, Arcata's population was 18,857. Arcata was first ...
and McKinleyville. As a result, the summers are dry and sunny, typically around with temperatures occasionally reaching as high as . Winters are rainy from November through April, with temperatures typically around and occasionally falling to the high 30s or low 40s (°F) at night. Honeydew, which is located only south of Petrolia, has a less temperate climate and its summers and winters are more extreme, with one of the highest amounts of winter rainfall in the contiguous 48 states. There are only two roads that lead into Petrolia, one from the north from
Ferndale, California Ferndale is a city in Humboldt County, California, United States. Its population was 1,371 at the 2010 census, down from 1,382 at the 2000 census. The city contains dozens of well-preserved Victorian storefronts and homes. Ferndale is the nort ...
, and one from the south from
Honeydew, California Honeydew (formerly, Honey Dew) is an unincorporated community in Humboldt County, California. It is located south of Scotia, at an elevation of 322 feet (98 m), from the Pacific Ocean in the Lost Coast, near the King Range. It has a general ...
, leading through scenic redwood forests that were the site for the filming of ''
Jurassic Park ''Jurassic Park'', later also referred to as ''Jurassic World'', is an American science fiction media franchise created by Michael Crichton and centered on a disastrous attempt to create a theme park of cloned dinosaurs. It began in 1990 when ...
'' and ''
After Earth ''After Earth'' is a 2013 American post-apocalyptic action film directed by M. Night Shyamalan, who co-wrote it with Gary Whitta. The film was loosely based on an original story idea by Will Smith about a father-and-son trip in the wilderness be ...
''. Both roads are winding, steep, and sometimes unpaved, passing large tracts of scenic overlooks and wilderness areas. They are popular routes for visitors, especially mountain bikers and motorcyclists, and have been described as leading to "an almost comically steep drop to the sea". The road from Petrolia to Ferndale follows the ocean and has unbroken vistas of rocky ocean coastline and beach. Petrolia is surrounded by large tracts of original homestead ranches and farms. The Mattole area, particularly the Lost Coast beaches, which feature tide pools, pristine beaches and relatively deserted hiking trails, is popular with visitors. At certain times of year, migrating gray
whales Whales are a widely distributed and diverse group of fully aquatic placental marine mammals. As an informal and colloquial grouping, they correspond to large members of the infraorder Cetacea, i.e. all cetaceans apart from dolphins and ...
can be seen from shore, as well as colonies of harbor
seals Seals may refer to: * Pinniped, a diverse group of semi-aquatic marine mammals, many of which are commonly called seals, particularly: ** Earless seal, or "true seal" ** Fur seal * Seal (emblem), a device to impress an emblem, used as a means of a ...
and
sea lions Sea lions are pinnipeds characterized by external ear flaps, long foreflippers, the ability to walk on all fours, short and thick hair, and a big chest and belly. Together with the fur seals, they make up the family Otariidae, eared seals. ...
. Local residents use the Mattole River for swimming, rafting, canoeing, kayaking and catch and release fly fishing. The
South Cape Mendocino State Marine Reserve The South Cape Mendocino State Marine Reserve is an offshore marine protected area located off Cape Mendocino and the coastal town of Petrolia about south of Eureka. It marks California’s westernmost point. The area is one of the most undevel ...
and Sugarloaf Rock are immediately offshore and are closed to public access.


History

The area was originally settled by the
Mattole The Mattole, including the Bear River Indians, are a group of Native Americans in California. Their traditional lands are along the Mattole and Bear Rivers near Cape Mendocino in Humboldt County, California. A notable difference between the Ma ...
, a Pacific Coast Athapaskan people, who arrived at the Pacific Coast late in the first millennium from what is now
Canada Canada is a country in North America. Its ten provinces and three territories extend from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean and northward into the Arctic Ocean, covering over , making it the world's second-largest country by tot ...
. The Mattole were slaughtered by the Western settlers, mainly oil prospectors and ranching homesteaders. The last remaining descendants of the Mattole live today in Bear River on the
Rohnerville Rancheria Rohnerville may refer to: *Rohnerville, California * Rohnerville Airport *Rohnerville Rancheria Rohnerville may refer to: *Rohnerville, California *Rohnerville Airport Rohnerville Airport is a public airport located southeast of Fortuna in Hum ...
, but there are no remaining native speakers of the Mattole language. There are estimated to be more than 80 archeological sites of significance in the Lost Coast area. Although it's often stated that Petrolia was first named "New Jerusalem," that area is 4–5 miles upstream; however, many people like the holy connotations of being called something like paradise. Petrolia was the site of the first oil well drilled in California. The oil lay in small, fractured underground pools and ultimately, attempts to extract it dried up; the site is now registered as
California Historical Landmark A California Historical Landmark (CHL) is a building, structure, site, or place in California that has been determined to have statewide historical landmark significance. Criteria Historical significance is determined by meeting at least one of ...
#543. The Mattole post office opened in 1863, and changed its name to Petrolia in 1865. A 1903 fire wiped out many buildings around the town square. On March 9, 2020, a magnitude 5.8
earthquake An earthquake (also known as a quake, tremor or temblor) is the shaking of the surface of the Earth resulting from a sudden release of energy in the Earth's lithosphere that creates seismic waves. Earthquakes can range in intensity, from ...
occurred 86 km West of the city. The official time of the earthquake was 02:59:06 ( UTC). 2660 people reported effects from the earthquake.


Economy

Local businesses include a bed and breakfast, an organic vineyard and winery, and an organic pick-it-yourself blueberry farm. Petrolia has an abundance of marijuana growers. Marijuana has long since replaced the ranching and logging that sustained the original residents for generations. Petrolia has a small general store that sells groceries and has one gas pump.


Government


State and federal

In the state legislature, Petrolia is in , and . Federally, Petrolia is in .


Facilities

It has a post office and a volunteer fire department. The original bell cast in 1871 for the Mattole School is still located at the school. There are two community centers, the Mattole Valley Community Center (originally the school house from 1907 and moved across the street) that hosts community cabaret and gatherings, and the Mattole Grange, an indoor and outdoor gathering area approximately five miles south of Petrolia that hosts a monthly pancake breakfast and farmers' market. There are community gardens, and various community clubs. A few miles outside town at the former Walker ranch is a by underground steel and concrete vault, built by the
Scientology Scientology is a set of beliefs and practices invented by American author L. Ron Hubbard, and an associated movement. It has been variously defined as a cult, a business, or a new religious movement. The most recent published census data indi ...
organization called
Church of Spiritual Technology The Church of Spiritual Technology (CST) is a California 501(c)(3) non-profit corporation, incorporated in 1982, which owns all the copyrights of the estate of L. Ron Hubbard and licenses their use. CST does business as L. Ron Hubbard Library. ...
to hold "the wisdom of the ages." The Church owns over of land and the facility also includes a large caretaker's house and a guard house. The vault is one of several across the U.S. and is similar to
Trementina Base Trementina Base is the popular designation for a property of the Scientology-affiliated Church of Spiritual Technology (CST) near Trementina, New Mexico. Overview According to the CST, an entity formed to manage the Church of Scientology's copy ...
. Prior to construction of this vault, on June 12, 1986, one of the oldest houses in the Petrolia area was deliberately burned by the Church of Spiritual Technology to clear the way for their construction, and symbols were cut in the ground above the vault to mark its location.


Inhabitants

A number of writers and artists have made their home in Petrolia, including
Alexander Cockburn Alexander Claud Cockburn ( ; 6 June 1941 – 21 July 2012) was a Scottish-born Irish-American political journalist and writer. Cockburn was brought up by British parents in Ireland, but lived and worked in the United States from 1972. Together ...
, a left-wing journalist and founder of ''
CounterPunch ''CounterPunch'' is a left-wing online magazine. Content includes a free section published five days a week as well as a subscriber-only area called CounterPunch+, where original articles are published weekly. ''CounterPunch'' is based in the Unit ...
'',
Dale Maharidge Dale Maharidge (born 24 October 1956) is an American author, journalist and academic best known for his collaborations with photographer Michael Williamson. Maharidge and Williamson's book '' And Their Children After Them'' won the Pulitzer Prize ...
, a journalist and winner of the Pulitzer Prize, Freeman House, an environmental author, Peter Hannaford, an author and political public relations specialist, Jim Danisch, a potter and sculptor,
Jenny Scheinman Jenny Scheinman is a jazz violinist. She has produced several critically acclaimed solo albums, including ''12 Songs'', named one of the Top Ten Albums of 2005 by ''The New York Times''. She has played with Linda Perry, Norah Jones, Nels Cline, ...
, renowned violinist, Lisa Jo Jones, renowned actor, and Matteo Giglioli, Italian-American political scientist and author. Petrolia has a large population of environmental activists and hosts two environmental organizations, the Mattole Salmon Group Mattole Salmon Group
/ref> and the Mattole Restoration Council,Mattole Restoration Council
/ref> both dedicated to preserving the local wildlife and environment.


Culture

The Mattole Valley Historical Society holds occasional public meetings in Petrolia and conducts community walking tours, slideshows and talks about the history of the area and its founders.Mattole Valley Historical Society
webpage
Community events including all-ages sporting events, town-wide talent shows, pancake breakfasts, and community meet-ups. In July of each year, the area hosts a music festival called "Roll on the Mattole",Roll on the Mattole
, North Coast Journal, accessdate 15 January 2013]
at the Mattole Grange, sponsored by the Honeydew Volunteer Fire Company. Twice a year, barbecues at the Mattole Grange attract families from all over the area;Mattole Grange
website
the Independence Day (United States), July 4th and Labor Day weekend annual barbecues features an enormous barbecue pit of local beef and baked beans cooked in a vintage pot so large that they must be stirred with a canoe paddle. There are horse races in September, cycling tours in May–September, including a cycling/hiking tour of the Redwoods cycling/hiking tour of the Redwoods
/ref> and the Tour of the Unknown Coast, a one-hundred mile bike race beginning and ending in Ferndale.Tour of the Unknown Coast - America's toughest century
accessdate 15 January 2013
A race called the "Rye and Tide" combines bicycling and running from downtown Petrolia along Lighthouse Road to the ocean.Petrolia California, Back to Basics
, accessdate 15 January 2013
Besides the general store, the Sunday farmers' market and cafe at the Community Center, and a new food cart downtown, the closest amenities are located in Ferndale, approximately , a trip of over an hour by car. Because of its isolation, the Mattole Valley has cultivated a reputation for independence and self-sustenance, including a network of local resources—the maintenance of its own emergency help line (augmenting
9-1-1 , usually written 911, is an emergency telephone number for the United States, Canada, Mexico, Panama, Palau, Argentina, Philippines, Jordan, as well as the North American Numbering Plan (NANP), one of eight N11 codes. Like other emergency nu ...
).


See also

*
Operation Green Sweep Operation Green Sweep was a series of drug raids conducted by over 200 United States Army soldiers, National Guardsmen, and federal agents in Humboldt County, California. The operation was the first time active-duty troops were used to combat ma ...
*


References


External links


Lost Coast Wilderness AreaLost Coast TrailHumboldt Music CalendarMattole Wildlands Defense Blog
*McHugh, Paul
Way off the beaton track / Lost Coast road offers rugged fun
SF Gate, 27 June 2002, accessdate 15 January 2013. *Barnes, Amy
John McAbery carves out a life on the Lost Coast
SF Gate, 8 April 2012, accessdate 15 January 2013. *https://www.topic.com/the-silver-currency-of-cannabis-country {{DEFAULTSORT:Petrolia Populated coastal places in California Unincorporated communities in Humboldt County, California Unincorporated communities in California