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A personal style (or fashion) blogger is an individual who manages an online platform that covers several aspects of
fashion Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture. The term implies a look defined by the fashion in ...
. These blogs, often produced independently, post pictures of the
blogger A blog (a truncation of "weblog") is a discussion or informational website published on the World Wide Web consisting of discrete, often informal diary-style text entries (posts). Posts are typically displayed in reverse chronological order s ...
to show their outfits and
lifestyle Lifestyle often refers to: * Lifestyle (sociology), the way a person lives * ''Otium'', ancient Roman concept of a lifestyle * Style of life (german: Lebensstil, link=no), dealing with the dynamics of personality Lifestyle may also refer to: Bu ...
to a number of followers. They influence consumer taste and preferences, often functioning as an intermediary between businesses and consumer. From a company perspective, the blogger is perceived as a promotional tool. From the consumer side, high-reputation bloggers are considered opinion leaders. This often results in material benefits, rewards, branded fashion clothing and paid sponsorship, as well as status in the field of fashion.


Fashion blogs background


Beginnings

The first blog created was Links.net in 1994, by
Justin Hall Justin Hall (born December 16, 1974 in Chicago, Illinois) is an American journalist and entrepreneur, best known as a pioneer blogger. Biography Born in Chicago, Hall graduated Francis W. Parker High School in 1993. In 1994, while a student ...
, a college student. At this period, Links.net was not referred to as being a blog but rather a personal homepage. It was not until 1997 that the word Weblog was created, by
Jorn Barger Jorn Barger (; born 1953) is an American blogger, best known as editor of ''Robot Wisdom'', an influential early weblog. Barger coined the term ''weblog'' to describe the process of "logging the web" as he surfed. He has also written extensively ...
and in 1999, the word was shortened to Blog, by a programmer called Peter Herholz. During the same year,
Pyra Labs Pyra Labs is a subsidiary of Google (Alphabet) that created the Blogger service in 1999. Google acquired Pyra Labs in 2003. History Pyra was co-founded by Evan Williams and Meg Hourihan. The company's first product, also named "Pyra", was a web ...
introduced Blogger, one of the earliest blog publishing tool. After 1999, bloggers started gaining popularity. A study published by Kaye in 2007 shows that in 1999 about 50 blogs were created, however, it reached an exponential growth and by 2005 about 8 million blogs were recorded. Also, 27% of all the internet users accessed blog and about 12% have posted a comment or link on those site. The trend of creating and or reading blogs kept on increasing and in 2008, the blogosphere accounted 184 million blogs and 346 million readers.


Evolution

In 2003, Not good For Me, the first Fashion blog, was introduced the web mainstream. Fashion blogging dominated the
blogosphere The blogosphere is made up of all blogs and their interconnections. The term implies that blogs exist together as a connected community (or as a collection of connected communities) or as a social networking service in which everyday authors can p ...
with an unlimited access to
social media Social media are interactive media technologies that facilitate the creation and sharing of information, ideas, interests, and other forms of expression through virtual communities and networks. While challenges to the definition of ''social medi ...
platform open to anyone. It was around that period, where fashion blogs were becoming popular. According to a Survey conducted by
AOL AOL (stylized as Aol., formerly a company known as AOL Inc. and originally known as America Online) is an American web portal and online service provider based in New York City. It is a brand marketed by the current incarnation of Yahoo (2017â ...
in 2005, 50% of American bloggers used blog as a therapeutic tool against 7.5% who used it for politics purpose. Moreover, a phone survey carried by Pew Internet Project, shows that bloggers used blog as a description of their personal experience. The platform Bloggers have listed more than 2 million as being within the industry of fashion. Therefore, after 2002, the blogosphere was mainly covered by fashion blogs. Starting from that period, fashion bloggers gain importance within the
fashion industry Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture. The term implies a look defined by the fashion in ...
, and mainly in playing the role of intermediate between businesses and consumers. Finally, the blogosphere had become a key space for the production, promotion, communication and finally circulation of fashion discourse.


Fashion bloggers trajectory

The fashion system in the early years, was highly restricted and limited to fashion professional. However, the introduction of WEB 2.0, access to information and the falling barrier between cultures, countries, and continent had created a
globalization Globalization, or globalisation (Commonwealth English; see spelling differences), is the process of interaction and integration among people, companies, and governments worldwide. The term ''globalization'' first appeared in the early 20t ...
of taste. This recent phenomenon has enable ordinary consumers and fashion professional to reach a mass audience. Therefore, until recently ordinary individuals lacked access to the mass media unless assisted by a professional institution.


From a personal diary to a taste display

Most of the Fashion bloggers, either famous or on the process of being so, will start a blog for a main purpose of posting a daily lifestyle. They start by being constantly connected and ready to answer follower's comments and follower request. As their followers keeps on growing, bloggers enter a stage of Taste display. In this specific stage, bloggers are in a position where their taste is used as a reference for their followers but also as a strategy of differentiation. A blogger acquire taste within the fashion industry through its
cultural capital In the field of sociology, cultural capital comprises the social assets of a person (education, intellect, style of speech, style of dress, etc.) that promote social mobility in a stratified society. Cultural capital functions as a social relat ...
as mentioned by
Bourdieu Pierre Bourdieu (; 1 August 1930 – 23 January 2002) was a French sociologist and public intellectual. Bourdieu's contributions to the sociology of education, the theory of sociology, and sociology of aesthetics have achieved wide influence i ...
(1999). They exercise taste and make a display of it for public consumption and taste assertion. Therefore, a universally acceptable taste is highly required for a fashion blogger in order to succeed.


From a virtual community to a mass audience

Once the blog has become a well-established taste display space, the blogger starts with a very personal relationship with its followers, and answer their comments as an ordinary participant. However, as soon as the blogger stop answering its follower comments, he or she starts to build an audience and as they start to ignore their followers, their value within the blogosphere increases. This is where the Taste Leadership takes place and provides the bloggers with a mass audience.


From curating to modeling

Most bloggers start their post with a selection and organisation of clothes using software. One software commonly used by bloggers is Polyvore.com. In the beginning of their blogging process, most bloggers barely appear in the pictures. However, as this specific stage of curating becomes redundant, the blogger needs another step to keep followers and provide them with new innovative posts. Therefore, the next stage is modelling. The blogger starts taking the blog seriously and invests in a professional camera in order to take pictures of themselves wearing several outfits that will later be displayed in their blog. In that stage, rather than posting clothing taste, the individual starts developing a professional lifestyle. Therefore, fashion bloggers go from curating to snapshots to modelling. In all three stages, the followers keep increasing. There is an ongoing investment in cultural capital, where not only connections get created but taste also starts improving.


Platforms

Several platforms are used for blogging, ranging from specific blog platform to regular social media platforms. The following list present the some blogging platform used by personal fashion bloggers. *
WordPress WordPress (WP or WordPress.org) is a free and open-source content management system (CMS) written in hypertext preprocessor language and paired with a MySQL or MariaDB database with supported HTTPS. Features include a plugin architecture ...
*
Blogger A blog (a truncation of "weblog") is a discussion or informational website published on the World Wide Web consisting of discrete, often informal diary-style text entries (posts). Posts are typically displayed in reverse chronological order s ...
*
Tumblr Tumblr (stylized as tumblr; pronounced "tumbler") is an American microblogging and social networking website founded by David Karp in 2007 and currently owned by Automattic. The service allows users to post multimedia and other content to a sho ...
*
Wix Wix may refer to: Computing * WiX (Windows Installer XML Toolset), a software toolset * Wix.com, an Israeli software company providing cloud-based web development services Places * Wix, Essex, United Kingdom * Vicques, Switzerland, formerly O ...
*
Medium Medium may refer to: Science and technology Aviation *Medium bomber, a class of war plane *Tecma Medium, a French hang glider design Communication * Media (communication), tools used to store and deliver information or data * Medium of ...
*
Ghost A ghost is the soul or spirit of a dead person or animal that is believed to be able to appear to the living. In ghostlore, descriptions of ghosts vary widely from an invisible presence to translucent or barely visible wispy shapes, to rea ...
*
Squarespace Squarespace, Inc. is an American website building and hosting company which is based in New York City, USA. It provides software as a service for website building and hosting, and allows users to use pre-built website templates and drag-and-drop ...
*
Google+ Google LLC () is an American Multinational corporation, multinational technology company focusing on Search Engine, search engine technology, online advertising, cloud computing, software, computer software, quantum computing, e-commerce, ar ...


Influential fashion bloggers

Although self-established, fashion bloggers that reach a mass audience gain a significant influence on consumers and thus influence fashion trends each season. These bloggers are called influential bloggers. Fashion magazine ''
Fashionista Fashionista or fashionistas may also refer to: *Fashionista, an avid leader and follower of fashion *Fashionista (website), a website about fashion Entertainment * ''Fashionista'' (TV series), an Australian TV series * "Fashionista", a song by N ...
'' listed some of the most influential personal fashion bloggers in 2016, the most notable being: *
Chiara Ferragni Chiara Ferragni () (born May 7, 1987) is an Italian blogger, businesswoman, fashion designer and model who has collaborated with fashion and beauty brands through her blog ''The Blonde Salad''. Biography Ferragni was born in Cremona in 1987. ...
, The Blonde Salad * Aimee Song, Song of Style * Julia Engel, Gal Meets Glam *
Danielle Bernstein Danielle Bernstein (born May 28, 1992) is an American fashion designer and the founder of the fashion blog and brand WeWoreWhat, which she started when she was a sophomore in college. She has collaborated with numerous brands and has launched ...
, We Wore What * Julie Sariñana, Sincerely Jules * Blair Eadie, Atlantic-Pacific Other notable fashion/lifestyle bloggers with large, engaged followings on social media include: * Sarah Tripp, Sassy Red Lipstick * Rachel Parcell, Pink Peonies * Courtney Quinn, Color Me Courtney * Amber Fillerup, Barefoot Blonde * Cara Loren, Cara Loren * Christine Andrew, Hello Fashion Blog


Fashion bloggers outcomes

Several incentives influence bloggers passion and enthusiasm towards their blogging activities. The two main incentive which are economical and social were discussed by McQuarrie, Edward F., Miller, Jessica, Philips and Barbara J. and are listed below.


Economical

There are several form of economical rewards. The most common ones are Branded Fashion clothing, paid ad-placement, and paid sponsorship of their blog contest. This process enables them to become a key promotional tool for brand. Those rewards vary from small bloggers to large and influential bloggers.


Social

Using Bourdieu's idea of
cultural capital In the field of sociology, cultural capital comprises the social assets of a person (education, intellect, style of speech, style of dress, etc.) that promote social mobility in a stratified society. Cultural capital functions as a social relat ...
, McQuarrie, Edward F., Miller, Jessica, Philips and Barbara J. have developed two sociological explanations to personal style bloggers social outcome: Taste of Judgement and Accumulation of cultural capital. Once they reach a mass audience and become famous, those personal fashion bloggers acquire a higher
social mobility Social mobility is the movement of individuals, families, households or other categories of people within or between social strata in a society. It is a change in social status relative to one's current social location within a given society ...
within the social strata of the fashion industry. For instance, many of them receive invitations to exclusive parties, Designer open houses, charity appearance mentioned in the media and so on. All these access to fashion professional, provide them with networking opportunity, helping them increase their social mobility. Therefore, a fashion blogger success comes from joining the traditional fashion system, rather than disconnecting it from it.


Impact on the fashion industry

Personal style bloggers have the potential to alter and confront the social norms constructed within the fashion industry. Fashion platforms allow for bloggers to freely express themselves and are not subject to the restricted binaries the fashion media content. Personal style bloggers can differentiate themselves from mainstream fashion, by cultivating and broadcasting their styles outside of the influence of advertisers and large corporations. Therefore, personal style bloggers have more freedom to showcase their fashion and potentially disrupt the industry illustration of trends. Becoming a profitable full-time fashion blogger is very difficult, as the ability to generate revenue through consulting and advertisements is very inconsistent, resulting in may fashion bloggers to pursue it as an activity. Although, the individuals who decide to self-brand themselves rely on social media and other platforms to build a brand and gain relationships with followers. Social media, therefore, majorly contribute to the impact personal styles have on the fashion industry.


Gay personal style bloggers

Previously, fashion was seen as more feminine than masculine, so when the male fashion industry started to develop, it tried to distance itself from femininity as much as possible, and one of the ways this was done was by excluding gay men from the demographic it was trying reach. Men's fashion tends to showcase dominant masculine ideals, and although the industry has now accepted gay men, the style still tends to follow the typical heteronormative ideals. Personal style blogs have allowed for homosexual men to include themselves back into the fashion world and gave them a platform to express themselves. This allows for a larger, more diverse representation of male style outside of the trends depicted in the traditional fashion industry. Within the Fashion industry, gender is constructed into a fixed idea of what individual's appearance should be. These structured guidelines formed by society are largely enforced by the fashion industry to regulate what is deemed acceptable, thus, emphasizing the ideal ‘heterosexual man’. As a result, personal style bloggers attempt to break these gender binaries representing society's idea of masculinity. Moreover, personal style bloggers can differentiate themselves from print fashion representation, through personal takes on contemporary looks. As male models are continuously depicted in an unachievable way, fashion bloggers can present an alternative to the fashion industries typical portrayal of men. They offer different representation concerning height, weight, and physical appearance. This ends up promoting inclusivity in the fashion industry and allows for a more substantial demographic to relate to their content.


See also

*
fast fashion Fast fashion is a term used to describe the clothing industry's business model of replicating recent catwalk trends and High fashion, high-fashion designs, mass production, mass-producing them at a low cost, and bringing them to retail stores qui ...


References

*{{cite journal, author=Bhardwaj, V. & Fairhurst, A., year=2010, title=Fast Fashion: response to changes in the fashion industry, journal=The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, volume=20, issue=1, pages=165–173, doi=10.1080/09593960903498300, s2cid=167708658 *Mohr, I. (2013). The impact of social media on the fashion industry''. Journal of'' ''Applied Business and Economics'', ''15''(2), 17–22. *Phua, J., Jin, S.V., Kim, J. (2016). Gratifications of using Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, or Snapchat to follow brands: The moderating effect of social comparison, trust, tie strength, and network homophile on brand identification, brand engagement, brand commitment, and membership intention. ''Journal of Telematics and informatics'' ''34'', 412–424. *Thornily, P. (2014). Examining the Role of Bloggers in the Fashion Industry: A Public Relations Strategy for New Designers. 1-50 Blogging