Sir Paul Brierley Smith (born 5 July 1946) is a British
fashion designer
Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture. The term implies a look defined by the fashion in ...
. His reputation is founded on his designs for men's clothing, but his business has expanded into other areas as well.
Smith was made a
Royal Designer for Industry in 1991.
His eponymous fashion company was founded in 1970 and has expanded into over 70 countries, selling its products via standalone stores, departments in high-end stores or malls, along with airport terminals, as well as the e-commerce section of its international website. Some of his brand's stores are recognized for their uniqueness and eccentricity, including the much-photographed vibrant, fluorescent pink flagship store in
Los Angeles.
Early life
Smith was born in 1946 in Beeston, Nottinghamshire, England, the son of Harold Smith, and is the youngest of three children. One of his early ambitions was to become a professional cyclist. He left school at the age of 15 to work in a Nottingham clothing warehouse, while practising cycling outside of work hours. He cycled to and from work until the age of 17, when he was in a major cycling accident that put him in hospital for close to six months. During his recovery, friends inspired him to enter the world of art and fashion.
Smith has regularly referenced cycling in his work over the years.
He started to take classes in tailoring and eventually began working with a Savile Row tailor, Lincroft Kilgour.
Career
Smith opened his own shop called Paul Smith Vêtements Pour Homme in Nottingham in 1970, which sold established clothing labels, alongside pieces that Smith had designed. The store was just 3 square metres and was located at 6
Byard Lane
Byard Lane is a pedestrianised shopping street in the city centre of Nottingham, England located between Fletcher Gate and Bridlesmith Gate.
History
Byard Lane has existed since the Middle Ages when it was known as Walleonelane, Walloonlane or ...
in Nottingham.
In 1976, Smith travelled to
Paris to showcase his first men's collection, which featured a mix of casual and semi-formal wear. After that the Paul Smith brand continued to grow and he opened his flagship London store in 1979 on Floral Street in Covent Garden, London.
'Paul Smith Women' his first womenswear collection was launched in 1993, after reports of women coming into his stores buying smaller sizes to wear themselves.
The first Japan store opened in Tokyo in 1984, growing over the years to 165 stores across the country.
Smith opened his first shop in
New York
New York most commonly refers to:
* New York City, the most populous city in the United States, located in the state of New York
* New York (state), a state in the northeastern United States
New York may also refer to:
Film and television
* '' ...
on
Fifth Avenue
Fifth Avenue is a major and prominent thoroughfare in the borough of Manhattan in New York City. It stretches north from Washington Square Park in Greenwich Village to West 143rd Street in Harlem. It is one of the most expensive shopping stre ...
in 1987. The company now has four shops in the state, the flagship on Greene Street as well as
Williamsburg
Williamsburg may refer to:
Places
*Colonial Williamsburg, a living-history museum and private foundation in Virginia
*Williamsburg, Brooklyn, neighborhood in New York City
*Williamsburg, former name of Kernville (former town), California
*Williams ...
,
Bleecker Street
Bleecker Street is an east–west street in the New York City borough of Manhattan. It is most famous today as a Greenwich Village nightclub district. The street connects a neighborhood today popular for music venues and comedy, but which was ...
and
Brookfield Place.
In 1993, Smith took over a 'workwear' clothing company R. Newbold
(established in 1885) and incorporated many of their designs into his new collection.
His childrenswear collection started in 1990 with the launch of a one-off collection for boys, including casual and tailored pieces. In 2010, Smith launched 'Paul Smith Junior' as a seasonal collection which often included remakes of his adult collections.
In 1995, the
Design Museum
The Design Museum in Kensington, London exhibits product, industrial, graphic, fashion, and architectural design. In 2018, the museum won the European Museum of the Year Award. The museum operates as a registered charity, and all funds generat ...
exhibited 'True Brit', a show marking 25 years of his business. The show then went on to
Glasgow
Glasgow ( ; sco, Glesca or ; gd, Glaschu ) is the most populous city in Scotland and the fourth-most populous city in the United Kingdom, as well as being the 27th largest city by population in Europe. In 2020, it had an estimated pop ...
for the 'Festival of Design' and then moved to his hometown of Nottingham and put on display in
Nottingham Castle.
Smith published his first book, entitled ''You Can Find Inspiration in Everything'' in 2001.
The brand launched its ecommerce site in 2004.
In 2013, Smith designed and made a school tie for Beeston Fields Primary School in Nottingham.
In 2016, Smith's second book, ''Paul Smith's Cycling Scrapbook'' was released, which documents a personal history of the sport he is very passionate about.
In January 2016, Smith combined his men's and women's fashion shows, showcasing during
Paris Fashion Week.
In 2019, Smith made a cameo appearance in the film ''
Men in Black: International'', he also designed the suits in the film.
His company remains independent, the majority owned by Smith.
Awards
Smith has won numerous awards over the years, including:
*
Freedom
Freedom is understood as either having the ability to act or change without constraint or to possess the power and resources to fulfill one's purposes unhindered. Freedom is often associated with liberty and autonomy in the sense of "giving on ...
of the
City of Nottingham, February 1997.
* Won Designer of the Year four years in a row at the
GQMen of the Year awards.
*Along with
Anya Hindmarch, Paul Smith was awarded the ''
Condé Nast Traveller'' Innovation and Design Awards, in 2010.
* Outstanding Achievement Award,
British Fashion Awards
The Fashion Awards, known as the British Fashion Awards until 2016, is an annual ceremony established in the United Kingdom in 1989 to showcase both British and international individuals and businesses who have made the most outstanding contribu ...
2011.
*Paul Smith was awarded an Honorary Fellowship from the
British Institute of Interior Design.
*He was named one of
GQ's 50 best dressed British men in 2015.
Smith was appointed
Commander of the Order of the British Empire (CBE) in the
1994 New Year Honours
The New Year Honours 1994 were appointments by most of the sixteen Commonwealth realms of Queen Elizabeth II to various orders and honours to reward and highlight good works by citizens of those countries, and honorary ones to citizens of other c ...
for services to fashion. He was
knighted
A knight is a person granted an honorary title of knighthood by a head of state (including the Pope) or representative for service to the monarch, the church or the country, especially in a military capacity. Knighthood finds origins in the Gr ...
in the
2000 Birthday Honours
The Queen's Birthday Honours were announced on 19 June 2000 to celebrate the Queen's Official Birthday in the United Kingdom,United Kingdom: Australia (12 June), New Zealand (13 June),New ZealandThe Queen's Birthday Honours 2000(13 June 2000), '' ...
and appointed
Member of the Order of the Companions of Honour (CH) in the
2020 Birthday Honours
The Queen's Birthday Honours for 2020 are appointments by some of the 16 Commonwealth realms of Queen Elizabeth II to various orders and honours to reward and highlight good works by citizens of those countries. The Birthday Honours are awarded ...
for services to fashion.
Partnerships and other business pursuits
Smith has been involved in multiple collaborations and partnerships over the years, including:
1997
Smith designed a
Mini, that was produced in a limited edition of 1,800 cars.
2002
Smith worked with Italian furniture designer Cappellini to create a small homeware collection.
2003
Smith's first collaboration with Maharam, the US textile brand, originally used in one of his suit designs, the two continue to work together on new ranges.
2005
Smith teamed up with motorbike manufacturer Triumph, restyling the
Bonneville T100 bike.
Smith redesigned the
Lasonic i931 boombox, giving it a white look with Smith's trademark multicolour look.
For the 60th anniversary of
Penguin Classics, Paul Smith was asked to choose and redesign one cover, he chose
Lady Chatterley's Lover
''Lady Chatterley's Lover'' is the last novel by English author D. H. Lawrence, which was first published privately in 1928, in Italy, and in 1929, in France. An unexpurgated edition was not published openly in the United Kingdom until 1960, w ...
by
DH Lawrence.
2006
Smith and
Mercian Cycles collaborated on a series of bicycles.
Smith designed the chairs in screen 4 at
Broadway Cinema
Broadway Cinema is an independent cinema in the city of Nottingham, England in the United Kingdom.
It is located in the Hockley area. In 2009, it was rated as one of the best cinemas in the world by Total Film magazine.
History
The site now ...
,
Nottingham.
2007
Smith began working with the UK-based boutique cycle clothing retailer,
Rapha.
Smith designed a range of cycle clothing in association with Rapha, including a jersey to celebrate the rare start of the Tour de France in London.
2009
Smith was the third designer, following
Jean-Paul Gaultier, to redesign a bottle for
Evian water.
Paul Smith provided suits for the
Manchester United
Manchester () is a city in Greater Manchester, England. It had a population of 552,000 in 2021. It is bordered by the Cheshire Plain to the south, the Pennines to the north and east, and the neighbouring city of City of Salford, Salford to ...
team.
2010
Smith worked with
Burton Snowboards including adding his signature stripe to boards and apparel.
2011
Smith designed four limited edition prints to mark the release of ''
Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy
''Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy'' is a 1974 spy novel by British author John le Carré. It follows the endeavours of taciturn, aging spymaster George Smiley to uncover a Soviet mole in the British Secret Intelligence Service. The novel has receive ...
''.
2012
Smith joined
Leica
Leica Camera AG () is a German company that manufactures cameras, optical lenses, photographic lenses, binoculars, rifle scopes and microscopes. The company was founded by Ernst Leitz in 1869 (Ernst Leitz Wetzlar), in Wetzlar, Germany.
...
to design a limited edition
Leica X2 camera.
Curated by the
Isle of Man Post Office, Smith designed a set of stamps to mark the launch of the London
Olympics
The modern Olympic Games or Olympics (french: link=no, Jeux olympiques) are the leading international sporting events featuring summer and winter sports competitions in which thousands of athletes from around the world participate in a var ...
.
Smith joined boot-maker
John Lobb John Lobb (27 December 1829 – 17 January 1895) was an English shoemaker and the founder of the company John Lobb Bootmaker. He founded his first successful company making boots for gold diggers in Australia.
Early life
John Lobb was born in Tyw ...
to create a series of
Oxford,
derby
Derby ( ) is a city and unitary authority area in Derbyshire, England. It lies on the banks of the River Derwent in the south of Derbyshire, which is in the East Midlands Region. It was traditionally the county town of Derbyshire. Derby gain ...
and
loafers.
2013
Smith was the official designer of the T-shirt for the
David Bowie album '
The Next Day'.
Smith designed the leaders' jersey for
Giro d'Italia including the
Maglia Rosa.
2014
Smith started a collaboration with
Anglepoise
The Anglepoise lamp is a balanced-arm lamp designed in 1932 by British designer George Carwardine.
History and development
George Carwardine (1887–1947) was a car designer and, at the same time he invented the Anglepoise lamp, (as a freelan ...
, reimagining their Type 75 lamp as Edition One, he has since gone on to creating multiple editions.
2015
Smith designed a series of T-shirts in collaboration with the release of
David Bowie's final album ★ (
Blackstar).
Smith worked with Kask for the first time to design their 'Protone' aero helmet. In 2018 a second helmet was released.
The first collaboration between Paul Smith &
Caran d'Ache, launched 10 colours of their '849' pen. They went on to work together again in 2016.
2016
Collaborated with the wine merchant,
Berry Bros & Rudd on a limited edition range of bottles.
Smith collaborated with
Land Rover, to design a bespoke
Defender.
Smith designed a new version of the cactus-shaped coat stand by Italian furniture designers
Gufram
Gufram is an Italian furniture manufacturer known for avant-garde, conceptual, witty, and Pop-art influenced designs; the unconventional use of industrial materials; collaborations with well known architects and designers; and the contribution ...
.
Edition Three of the Paul Smith &
Anglepoise
The Anglepoise lamp is a balanced-arm lamp designed in 1932 by British designer George Carwardine.
History and development
George Carwardine (1887–1947) was a car designer and, at the same time he invented the Anglepoise lamp, (as a freelan ...
Collaboration was launched.
The second collaboration with
Caran d'Ache was launched, adding 8 new colours to the collection.
2018
For the 120th anniversary of
Globe-Trotter
Globe-Trotter is a British manufacturer of luxury luggage, based in Mayfair, founded in 1897.
History
Globe-Trotter traces its history to 1897 when the Sächsische Kofferfabrik "Stabilist" (Stabilist Saxon Trunk Manufactory) Friedr. Jone & C ...
, Smith collaborated with the company by redesigning their 20" trolley case, this was first showcased at the
Salone del Mobile.
Celebrating 30 years of
New Balance's 576 sneaker (trainer), Smith redesigned with his iconic stripe design, along with a series of footballs and football boot.
In tribute to his close friend Tony Gross, the company collaborated with
Cutler & Gross on a limited edition collection of eyewear for his spring/summer 2019 show in Paris.
Smith worked with James Turner of Sports Purpose to cover a 1965
Porsche 911
The Porsche 911 (pronounced ''Nine Eleven'' or in german: Neunelfer) is a two-door 2+2 high performance rear-engined sports car introduced in September 1964 by Porsche AG of Stuttgart, Germany. It has a rear-mounted flat-six engine and origin ...
with multicoloured stripes, which went on to compete at
Le Mans Classic
The Le Mans Classic is a biennial historic racing, vintage sports car racing, sports car event held on the grounds of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, created by Peter Auto and Richard Mille, and associated with Automobile Club de l'Ouest (ACO). It began ...
and
Goodwood Festival of Speed.
2021
Smith designed a
Mini Electric using sustainable principles, with recycled and natural materials for example cork.
Smith's Mini Strip was designed to break "the unwritten law that even small cars have to be shiny, polished luxury products."
References
External links
*
{{DEFAULTSORT:Smith, Paul
1946 births
Articles containing video clips
Clothing brands of the United Kingdom
Commanders of the Order of the British Empire
English businesspeople in fashion
English chief executives
English fashion designers
Eyewear brands of the United Kingdom
Fashion accessory brands
High fashion brands
Knights Bachelor
Living people
Luxury brands
Members of the Order of the Companions of Honour
Menswear designers
People from Beeston, Nottinghamshire
Shoe brands