Sir Paul Brierley Smith (born 5 July 1946) is a British
fashion designer
Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture. The term implies a look defined by the fashion in ...
. His reputation is founded on his designs for men's clothing, but his business has expanded into other areas as well.
Smith was made a
Royal Designer for Industry
Royal Designer for Industry is a distinction established by the British Royal Society of Arts (RSA) in 1936, to encourage a high standard of industrial design and enhance the status of designers. It is awarded to people who have achieved "sustaine ...
in 1991.
His eponymous fashion company was founded in 1970 and has expanded into over 70 countries, selling its products via standalone stores, departments in high-end stores or malls, along with airport terminals, as well as the e-commerce section of its international website. Some of his brand's stores are recognized for their uniqueness and eccentricity, including the much-photographed vibrant, fluorescent pink flagship store in
Los Angeles
Los Angeles ( ; es, Los Ángeles, link=no , ), often referred to by its initials L.A., is the largest city in the state of California and the second most populous city in the United States after New York City, as well as one of the world' ...
.
Early life
Smith was born in 1946 in Beeston, Nottinghamshire, England, the son of Harold Smith, and is the youngest of three children. One of his early ambitions was to become a professional cyclist. He left school at the age of 15 to work in a Nottingham clothing warehouse, while practising cycling outside of work hours. He cycled to and from work until the age of 17, when he was in a major cycling accident that put him in hospital for close to six months. During his recovery, friends inspired him to enter the world of art and fashion.
Smith has regularly referenced cycling in his work over the years.
He started to take classes in tailoring and eventually began working with a Savile Row tailor, Lincroft Kilgour.
Career
Smith opened his own shop called Paul Smith Vêtements Pour Homme in Nottingham in 1970, which sold established clothing labels, alongside pieces that Smith had designed. The store was just 3 square metres and was located at 6
Byard Lane
Byard Lane is a pedestrianised shopping street in the city centre of Nottingham, England located between Fletcher Gate and Bridlesmith Gate.
History
Byard Lane has existed since the Middle Ages when it was known as Walleonelane, Walloonlane or ...
in Nottingham.
In 1976, Smith travelled to
Paris
Paris () is the capital and most populous city of France, with an estimated population of 2,165,423 residents in 2019 in an area of more than 105 km² (41 sq mi), making it the 30th most densely populated city in the world in 2020. S ...
to showcase his first men's collection, which featured a mix of casual and semi-formal wear. After that the Paul Smith brand continued to grow and he opened his flagship London store in 1979 on Floral Street in Covent Garden, London.
'Paul Smith Women' his first womenswear collection was launched in 1993, after reports of women coming into his stores buying smaller sizes to wear themselves.
The first Japan store opened in Tokyo in 1984, growing over the years to 165 stores across the country.
Smith opened his first shop in
New York on
Fifth Avenue
Fifth Avenue is a major and prominent thoroughfare in the borough of Manhattan in New York City. It stretches north from Washington Square Park in Greenwich Village to West 143rd Street in Harlem. It is one of the most expensive shopping stre ...
in 1987. The company now has four shops in the state, the flagship on Greene Street as well as
Williamsburg,
Bleecker Street
Bleecker Street is an east–west street in the New York City borough of Manhattan. It is most famous today as a Greenwich Village nightclub district. The street connects a neighborhood today popular for music venues and comedy, but which was ...
and
Brookfield Place.
In 1993, Smith took over a 'workwear' clothing company R. Newbold
(established in 1885) and incorporated many of their designs into his new collection.
His childrenswear collection started in 1990 with the launch of a one-off collection for boys, including casual and tailored pieces. In 2010, Smith launched 'Paul Smith Junior' as a seasonal collection which often included remakes of his adult collections.
In 1995, the
Design Museum
The Design Museum in Kensington, London exhibits product, industrial, graphic, fashion, and architectural design. In 2018, the museum won the European Museum of the Year Award. The museum operates as a registered charity, and all funds generat ...
exhibited 'True Brit', a show marking 25 years of his business. The show then went on to
Glasgow
Glasgow ( ; sco, Glesca or ; gd, Glaschu ) is the most populous city in Scotland and the fourth-most populous city in the United Kingdom, as well as being the 27th largest city by population in Europe. In 2020, it had an estimated popul ...
for the 'Festival of Design' and then moved to his hometown of Nottingham and put on display in
Nottingham Castle
Nottingham Castle is a Stuart Restoration-era ducal mansion in Nottingham, England, built on the site of a Norman castle built starting in 1068, and added to extensively through the medieval period, when it was an important royal fortress and o ...
.
Smith published his first book, entitled ''You Can Find Inspiration in Everything'' in 2001.
The brand launched its ecommerce site in 2004.
In 2013, Smith designed and made a school tie for Beeston Fields Primary School in Nottingham.
In 2016, Smith's second book, ''Paul Smith's Cycling Scrapbook'' was released, which documents a personal history of the sport he is very passionate about.
In January 2016, Smith combined his men's and women's fashion shows, showcasing during
Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week (french: Semaine de la mode de Paris) is a series of designer presentations held semiannually in Paris, France with spring/summer and autumn/winter events held each year. Dates are determined by the French Fashion Federation. ...
.
In 2019, Smith made a cameo appearance in the film ''
Men in Black: International'', he also designed the suits in the film.
His company remains independent, the majority owned by Smith.
Awards
Smith has won numerous awards over the years, including:
*
Freedom
Freedom is understood as either having the ability to act or change without constraint or to possess the power and resources to fulfill one's purposes unhindered. Freedom is often associated with liberty and autonomy in the sense of "giving on ...
of the
City of Nottingham
Nottingham ( , locally ) is a city and unitary authority area in Nottinghamshire, East Midlands, England. It is located north-west of London, south-east of Sheffield and north-east of Birmingham. Nottingham has links to the legend of Robin ...
, February 1997.
* Won Designer of the Year four years in a row at the
GQMen of the Year awards.
*Along with
Anya Hindmarch
Anya Susannah Hindmarch, (; born 1968) is an English fashion accessories designer who founded an eponymous company.
Career
Hindmarch was born into an entrepreneurial family and attended New Hall School, an independent school in Chelmsford, ...
, Paul Smith was awarded the ''
Condé Nast
Condé Nast () is a global mass media company founded in 1909 by Condé Montrose Nast, and owned by Advance Publications. Its headquarters are located at One World Trade Center in the Financial District of Lower Manhattan.
The company's media ...
Traveller'' Innovation and Design Awards, in 2010.
* Outstanding Achievement Award,
British Fashion Awards
The Fashion Awards, known as the British Fashion Awards until 2016, is an annual ceremony established in the United Kingdom in 1989 to showcase both British and international individuals and businesses who have made the most outstanding contribu ...
2011.
*Paul Smith was awarded an Honorary Fellowship from the
British Institute of Interior Design The British Institute of Interior Design (BIID) is a professional organisation for commercial and residential interior designers in Britain. The current president of the institute is Lester Bennett.
Establishment
Founded in 1965 as the Interior De ...
.
*He was named one of
GQ's 50 best dressed British men in 2015.
Smith was appointed
Commander of the Order of the British Empire
The Most Excellent Order of the British Empire is a British order of chivalry, rewarding contributions to the arts and sciences, work with charitable and welfare organisations,
and public service outside the civil service. It was established o ...
(CBE) in the
1994 New Year Honours for services to fashion. He was
knighted
A knight is a person granted an honorary title of knighthood by a head of state (including the Pope) or representative for service to the monarch, the Christian denomination, church or the country, especially in a military capacity. Knighthood ...
in the
2000 Birthday Honours
The Queen's Birthday Honours were announced on 19 June 2000 to celebrate the Queen's Official Birthday in the United Kingdom,United Kingdom: Australia (12 June), New Zealand (13 June),New ZealandThe Queen's Birthday Honours 2000(13 June 2000), '' ...
and appointed
Member of the Order of the Companions of Honour
The Order of the Companions of Honour is an order of the Commonwealth realms. It was founded on 4 June 1917 by King George V as a reward for outstanding achievements. Founded on the same date as the Order of the British Empire, it is sometimes ...
(CH) in the
2020 Birthday Honours
The Queen's Birthday Honours for 2020 are appointments by some of the 16 Commonwealth realms of Queen Elizabeth II to various orders and honours to reward and highlight good works by citizens of those countries. The Birthday Honours are awarded ...
for services to fashion.
Partnerships and other business pursuits
Smith has been involved in multiple collaborations and partnerships over the years, including:
1997
Smith designed a
Mini
The Mini is a small, two-door, four-seat car, developed as ADO15, and produced by the British Motor Corporation (BMC) and its successors, from 1959 through 2000. Minus a brief hiatus, original Minis were built for four decades and sold during ...
, that was produced in a limited edition of 1,800 cars.
2002
Smith worked with Italian furniture designer Cappellini to create a small homeware collection.
2003
Smith's first collaboration with Maharam, the US textile brand, originally used in one of his suit designs, the two continue to work together on new ranges.
2005
Smith teamed up with motorbike manufacturer Triumph, restyling the
Bonneville T100 bike.
Smith redesigned the
Lasonic i931 boombox, giving it a white look with Smith's trademark multicolour look.
For the 60th anniversary of
Penguin Classics
Penguin Classics is an imprint of Penguin Books under which classic works of literature are published in English, Spanish, Portuguese, and Korean among other languages. Literary critics see books in this series as important members of the Western ...
, Paul Smith was asked to choose and redesign one cover, he chose
Lady Chatterley's Lover by
DH Lawrence
David Herbert Lawrence (11 September 1885 – 2 March 1930) was an English writer, novelist, poet and essayist. His works reflect on modernity, industrialization, sexuality, emotional health, vitality, spontaneity and instinct. His best-k ...
.
2006
Smith and
Mercian Cycles
Mercian Cycles is a custom bicycle manufacturer based in Derby, England.Kolin and de la Rosa, 1979, pp. 60-68 The firm was founded by Tom Crowther and Lou Barker in 1946 and named after the ancient kingdom of Mercia. Early frames built by Merci ...
collaborated on a series of bicycles.
Smith designed the chairs in screen 4 at
Broadway Cinema
Broadway Cinema is an independent cinema in the city of Nottingham, England in the United Kingdom.
It is located in the Hockley area. In 2009, it was rated as one of the best cinemas in the world by Total Film magazine.
History
The site now ...
,
Nottingham
Nottingham ( , East Midlands English, locally ) is a city status in the United Kingdom, city and Unitary authorities of England, unitary authority area in Nottinghamshire, East Midlands, England. It is located north-west of London, south-east ...
.
2007
Smith began working with the UK-based boutique cycle clothing retailer,
Rapha.
Smith designed a range of cycle clothing in association with Rapha, including a jersey to celebrate the rare start of the Tour de France in London.
2009
Smith was the third designer, following
Jean-Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier (; born 24 April 1952) is a French haute couture and prêt-à-porter fashion designer. He is described as an " enfant terrible" of the fashion industry and is known for his unconventional designs with motifs including corset ...
, to redesign a bottle for
Evian
Evian ( , ; , stylized as evian) is a French company that bottles and commercialises mineral water from several sources near Évian-les-Bains, on the south shore of Lake Geneva. It produces over 2 billion plastic bottles per year.
Today, Evia ...
water.
Paul Smith provided suits for the
Manchester United
Manchester () is a city in Greater Manchester, England. It had a population of 552,000 in 2021. It is bordered by the Cheshire Plain to the south, the Pennines to the north and east, and the neighbouring city of City of Salford, Salford to ...
team.
2010
Smith worked with
Burton Snowboards
Burton Snowboards is a privately-owned snowboard manufacturing company that was founded by Jake Burton Carpenter in 1977. The company specializes in products aimed at snowboarders, such as snowboards, bindings, boots, outerwear, and accessorie ...
including adding his signature stripe to boards and apparel.
2011
Smith designed four limited edition prints to mark the release of ''
Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy''.
2012
Smith joined
Leica to design a limited edition
Leica X2
The Leica X2 is a digital large sensor compact camera announced by Leica Camera on 10 May 2012. It is the successor of the Leica X1, and improves on the earlier model with a higher resolution sensor, improved autofocus and an optionally availabl ...
camera.
Curated by the
Isle of Man Post Office
The Isle of Man Post Office ( gv, Oik Postagh Ellan Vannin), which formerly used the trading name Isle of Man Post, operates postal collection, ancillary mail services, philatelic goods and delivery services and post office counter services on ...
, Smith designed a set of stamps to mark the launch of the London
Olympics
The modern Olympic Games or Olympics (french: link=no, Jeux olympiques) are the leading international sporting events featuring summer and winter sports competitions in which thousands of athletes from around the world participate in a var ...
.
Smith joined boot-maker
John Lobb John Lobb (27 December 1829 – 17 January 1895) was an English shoemaker and the founder of the company John Lobb Bootmaker. He founded his first successful company making boots for gold diggers in Australia.
Early life
John Lobb was born in Tywar ...
to create a series of
Oxford
Oxford () is a city in England. It is the county town and only city of Oxfordshire. In 2020, its population was estimated at 151,584. It is north-west of London, south-east of Birmingham and north-east of Bristol. The city is home to the ...
,
derby
Derby ( ) is a city and unitary authority area in Derbyshire, England. It lies on the banks of the River Derwent in the south of Derbyshire, which is in the East Midlands Region. It was traditionally the county town of Derbyshire. Derby gai ...
and
loafers
Slip-ons are typically low, lace-less shoes. The style which is most commonly seen, known as a loafer or slippers in American culture, has a moccasin construction. One of the first designs was introduced in London by Wildsmith Shoes, called the W ...
.
2013
Smith was the official designer of the T-shirt for the
David Bowie
David Robert Jones (8 January 194710 January 2016), known professionally as David Bowie ( ), was an English singer-songwriter and actor. A leading figure in the music industry, he is regarded as one of the most influential musicians of the ...
album '
The Next Day'.
Smith designed the leaders' jersey for
Giro d'Italia including the
Maglia Rosa
The general classification in the Giro d'Italia is the most important classification of the Giro d'Italia, which determines who is the overall winner. It is therefore considered more important than secondary classifications as the points classif ...
.
2014
Smith started a collaboration with
Anglepoise, reimagining their Type 75 lamp as Edition One, he has since gone on to creating multiple editions.
2015
Smith designed a series of T-shirts in collaboration with the release of
David Bowie
David Robert Jones (8 January 194710 January 2016), known professionally as David Bowie ( ), was an English singer-songwriter and actor. A leading figure in the music industry, he is regarded as one of the most influential musicians of the ...
's final album ★ (
Blackstar
''Blackstar'' is an American animated science fantasy television series, produced in 1981 by Lou Scheimer and Norm Prescott for Filmation. The series was Filmation's second fantasy epic, the first being '' The Freedom Force'', a segment of '' ...
).
Smith worked with Kask for the first time to design their 'Protone' aero helmet. In 2018 a second helmet was released.
The first collaboration between Paul Smith &
Caran d'Ache
Caran d'Ache was the pseudonym of the 19th century French satirist and political cartoonist Emmanuel Poiré (6 November 1858 – 25 February 1909). The pseudonym comes from russian: карандаш, italic=unset, translit=karandash meani ...
, launched 10 colours of their '849' pen. They went on to work together again in 2016.
2016
Collaborated with the wine merchant,
Berry Bros & Rudd on a limited edition range of bottles.
Smith collaborated with
Land Rover
Land Rover is a British brand of predominantly four-wheel drive, off-road capable vehicles, owned by multinational car manufacturer Jaguar Land Rover (JLR), since 2008 a subsidiary of India's Tata Motors. JLR currently builds Land Rovers ...
, to design a bespoke
Defender.
Smith designed a new version of the cactus-shaped coat stand by Italian furniture designers
Gufram
Gufram is an Italian furniture manufacturer known for avant-garde, conceptual, witty, and Pop-art influenced designs; the unconventional use of industrial materials; collaborations with well known architects and designers; and the contributio ...
.
Edition Three of the Paul Smith &
Anglepoise Collaboration was launched.
The second collaboration with
Caran d'Ache
Caran d'Ache was the pseudonym of the 19th century French satirist and political cartoonist Emmanuel Poiré (6 November 1858 – 25 February 1909). The pseudonym comes from russian: карандаш, italic=unset, translit=karandash meani ...
was launched, adding 8 new colours to the collection.
2018
For the 120th anniversary of
Globe-Trotter, Smith collaborated with the company by redesigning their 20" trolley case, this was first showcased at the
Salone del Mobile
The Milan Furniture Fair ( it, Salone Internazionale del Mobile di Milano) is a furniture fair held annually in Milan. It is the largest trade fair of its kind in the world. The exhibition showcases the latest in furniture and design from countrie ...
.
Celebrating 30 years of
New Balance
New Balance Athletics, Inc. (NB), best known as simply New Balance, is one of the world's major sports footwear and apparel manufacturers. Based in Boston, Massachusetts, the multinational corporation was founded in 1906 as the New Balance Arch ...
's 576 sneaker (trainer), Smith redesigned with his iconic stripe design, along with a series of footballs and football boot.
In tribute to his close friend Tony Gross, the company collaborated with
Cutler & Gross on a limited edition collection of eyewear for his spring/summer 2019 show in Paris.
Smith worked with James Turner of Sports Purpose to cover a 1965
Porsche 911
The Porsche 911 (pronounced ''Nine Eleven'' or in german: Neunelfer) is a two-door 2+2 high performance rear-engined sports car introduced in September 1964 by Porsche AG of Stuttgart, Germany. It has a rear-mounted flat-six engine and origin ...
with multicoloured stripes, which went on to compete at
Le Mans Classic and
Goodwood Festival of Speed
The Goodwood Festival of Speed is an annual motorsports festival featuring modern and historic motor racing vehicles taking part in a hillclimbing, hill climb and other events, held in the grounds of Goodwood House, West Sussex, England, in l ...
.
2021
Smith designed a
Mini Electric
The Mini Electric (marketed as the Mini Cooper SE in all markets outside the United Kingdom) is a Battery electric vehicle, battery electric version of the Mini Hatch#F56, third generation Mini Hatch that was launched in 2020. The drivetrain u ...
using sustainable principles, with recycled and natural materials for example cork.
Smith's Mini Strip was designed to break "the unwritten law that even small cars have to be shiny, polished luxury products."
References
External links
*
{{DEFAULTSORT:Smith, Paul
1946 births
Articles containing video clips
Clothing brands of the United Kingdom
Commanders of the Order of the British Empire
English businesspeople in fashion
English chief executives
English fashion designers
Eyewear brands of the United Kingdom
Fashion accessory brands
High fashion brands
Knights Bachelor
Living people
Luxury brands
Members of the Order of the Companions of Honour
Menswear designers
People from Beeston, Nottinghamshire
Shoe brands