Patrick Kinmonth
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Patrick Charles Kinmonth (born 27 August 1957) is an Anglo-Irish opera director and designer, filmmaker, writer, painter, interior designer, art editor, creative director and curator. He is known for his many stage, costume, interior and architectural designs. Kinmonth works principally as an opera director, and has been awarded for his work as exhibition curator and designer.


Early life

Patrick Charles Kinmonth is the youngest of four children. His father, Maurice Kinmonth (1917–2009), was a consultant plastic surgeon, who encouraged Patrick's talent for drawing. He attended Uppingham School and later, in 1977, studied English Language and Literature at Mansfield College, University of Oxford He also enrolled as an associate student at
The Ruskin School of Drawing and Fine Art The Ruskin School of Art, known as the Ruskin, is an art school at the University of Oxford, England. It is part of Oxford's Humanities Division. History The Ruskin grew out the Oxford School of Art, which was founded in 1865 and later became ...
. During his undergraduate years at Oxford, he regularly participated in theatre productions at the Oxford Playhouse and elsewhere as director, designer and actor. He also became the art director of The Isis (the Oxford University magazine). After graduating with a first-class degree in 1979, Kinmonth moved to
Venice Venice ( ; it, Venezia ; vec, Venesia or ) is a city in northeastern Italy and the capital of the Veneto Regions of Italy, region. It is built on a group of 118 small islands that are separated by canals and linked by over 400  ...
to continue his work as a painter and lecturer on modern art and poetry. In 1981, Patrick returned to the UK and won the British Vogue's Talent Competition. He was appointed as arts editor of Vogue and has since contributed articles on emerging artists, designers, architects, and directors to various publications including British Vogue, Vogue Italia,
American Vogue ''Vogue'' is an American monthly fashion and lifestyle magazine that covers many topics, including haute couture fashion, beauty, culture, living, and runway. Based at One World Trade Center in the Financial District of Lower Manhattan, ''Vog ...
and Vanity Fair.


Career


''Vogue'' and beyond

Kinmonth's role at British Vogue included creative direction for fashion and portraiture shoots. He commissioned work from, and collaborated with, many renowned photographers, ranging from André Kertész,
Jacques Henri Lartigue Jacques Henri Lartigue (; 13 June 1894 – 12 September 1986) was a French photographer and painter, known for his photographs of automobile races, planes and female Parisian fashion models. Biography Born in Courbevoie in western Paris to ...
and Horst to
David Bailey David Royston Bailey (born 2 January 1938) is an English photographer and director, most widely known for his fashion photography and portraiture, and role in shaping the image of the Swinging Sixties. Early life David Bailey was born at Wh ...
, Mario Testino,
Tessa Traeger Tessa Traeger (born 1938) is a British photographer. She is known for her still life and food photography, and has worked as an advertising photographer. Her work has been published in two books of her own; included in a number of books with othe ...
and Bruce Weber. Kinmonth established working relationships with Testino and Traeger for Vogue. In 2003 Kinmonth curated ''A Gardener's Labyrinth: Portraits of People, Plants and Places,'' an exhibition of Traeger's photography for the
National Portrait Gallery National Portrait Gallery may refer to: *National Portrait Gallery (Australia), in Canberra *National Portrait Gallery (Sweden), in Mariefred *National Portrait Gallery (United States), in Washington, D.C. *National Portrait Gallery, London, with s ...
, and wrote the text for the eponymous book, translated into Dutch and German. Towards the end of the 1980s, Kinmonth returned to painting. His canvasses were exhibited by
Richard Demarco Richard Demarco CBE (born 9 July 1930 in Edinburgh) is a Scottish artist and promoter of the visual and performing arts. Early life He was born at 9 Grosvenor Street in Edinburgh on 9 July 1930 the son of Carmino Demarco and his wife Elizabet ...
Gallery at the International Contemporary Art Fair at Olympia and were used by Jasper Conran as scenic backdrops to complement his costume designs for David Bintley's one-act ballet Tombeaux for The Royal Ballet (1993).


Stage designs

Kinmonth began working with Robert Carsen in 1993. They first met in the mid-1980s during Carsen's time as a student actor at the Bristol Old Vic Theatre School. Carsen invited Kinmonth to design sets and costumes for his new production of Janáček's
Káťa Kabanová ''Káťa Kabanová'' (also known in various spellings including ''Katia'', ''Katja'', ''Katya'', and ''Kabanowa'') is an opera in three acts, with music by Leoš Janáček to a libretto by the composer based on '' The Storm'', a play by Alexander ...
for the Canadian Opera Company. Their collaboration evolved over the next decade to deliver critically acclaimed stagings of, among others, Handel's Semele (co-produced by
Vlaamse Opera The Vlaamse Opera (Flemish Opera) is an opera company in Belgium directed by Jan Vandenhouwe which operates in two different opera houses in two Flemish cities, the Vlaamse Opera Antwerp at Van Ertbornstraat 8 and the Vlaamse Opera Ghent at Schouwbu ...
and English National Opera), Wagner's Ring des Nibelungen (Cologne Opera), and a notable series of operas by Janáček (Vlaamse Opera). The Carsen-Kinmonth vision of Wagner's tetralogy, presented as a complete cycle in Cologne in 2004, became the first Ring to be staged in Shanghai, presented twice by Cologne Opera at the Shanghai Grand Theatre in September 2010. It has been called the "Green Ring" to reflect the staging's attention to ecological and environmental concerns. Kát'a Kabanová, conceived for Vlaamse Opera, has traveled extensively and was chosen to introduce the work to the Teatro alla Scala in 2006. It has also reached audiences in Tokyo,
Strasbourg Strasbourg (, , ; german: Straßburg ; gsw, label=Bas Rhin Alsatian, Strossburi , gsw, label=Haut Rhin Alsatian, Strossburig ) is the prefecture and largest city of the Grand Est region of eastern France and the official seat of the Eu ...
, Cologne and Madrid. The latter staging, filmed and subsequently released on DVD, was shortlisted for a Gramophone Award in 2009. Kinmonth's set and costume designs for Carsen's staging of
La Traviata ''La traviata'' (; ''The Fallen Woman'') is an opera in three acts by Giuseppe Verdi set to an Italian libretto by Francesco Maria Piave. It is based on ''La Dame aux camélias'' (1852), a play by Alexandre Dumas ''fils'' adapted from his own 18 ...
were commissioned by
La Fenice Teatro La Fenice (, "The Phoenix") is an opera house in Venice, Italy. It is one of "the most famous and renowned landmarks in the history of Italian theatre" and in the history of opera as a whole. Especially in the 19th century, La Fenice beca ...
for the Venetian theatre's post-fire reopening in 2004. The production was presented in Tokyo (2005) and in Beijing (2006) and has become established as the traditional season opener at La Fenice: the Carsen-Kinmonth production of La traviata was revived at the beginning of 2007/08, 2009/10, 2010/11, 2011/12 and 2012/13 seasons. In 2000, Kinmonth worked for the first time with the director
Pierre Audi Pierre Audi (born 1957 in Beirut, Lebanon) is a French-Lebanese theatre director and artistic director. Early life Audi is the son of the Lebanese banker Raymond Audi and Andrée Michel Fattal, the eldest of three children.De Nederlandse Opera. Kinmonth joined forces with fellow designers Chloe Obolensky and Jannis Kounellis in 2007 to work with Pierre Audi for De Nederlandse Opera's 'Monteverdi Evening', comprising Lamento d'Arianna, Il ballo della ingrate and Il combattimento di Tancredi e Clorinda. Audi and Kinmonth created a production of Handel's Partenope for Theater an der Wien in 2009 and in 2011 staged Vivaldi's Orlando furioso at the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées in Paris as well as in Nice and Nancy. Kinmonth's experience of creative partnerships have underpinned recent collaborations with the Flemish opera director Guy Joosten (Richard Strauss's Elektra, co-produced by Gran Teatre del Liceu and La Monnaie) and Brazilian dancer and choreographer Fernando Melo. He has designed sets and costumes for three of Melo's original dance works: A Guest House, created for and first staged by
Göteborgsoperan The Gothenburg opera house ( sv, Göteborgsoperan) is an opera house at Lilla Bommen in Gothenburg, Sweden. The Artistic Director for opera is Henning Ruhe since 2019, while Katrín Hall leads the ballet and dance company. History The Gothenbur ...
s Danskompani (2010); Fountain, a 20-minute dance theatre work produced at the Staatstheater am Gärtnerplatz (2011), and Tending to Fall, also conceived for GöteborgsOperans (2012).


Opera direction

Whilst Intendant of Cologne Opera, Christoph Dammann invited Kinmonth to make his directorial debut with Puccini's
Madama Butterfly ''Madama Butterfly'' (; ''Madame Butterfly'') is an opera in three acts (originally two) by Giacomo Puccini, with an Italian libretto by Luigi Illica and Giuseppe Giacosa. It is based on the short story "Madame Butterfly" (1898) by John Luther ...
for the German company's 2008/09 season. Kinmonth designed the production's sets and costumes (in collaboration with Darko Petrovic). Kinmonth's production of Saint-Saëns's Samson et Dalila, created for the Deutsche Oper Berlin, opened in May 2011. He returned to the staging the following year, making revisions and overseeing its revival at the
Grand Théâtre de Genève Grand Théâtre de Genève is an opera house in Geneva, Switzerland. As with many other opera houses, the Grand Théâtre de Genève is both a venue and an institution. The venue is a majestic building, towering over Place Neuve, official ...
in November 2012. His new production of
Don Giovanni ''Don Giovanni'' (; K. 527; Vienna (1788) title: , literally ''The Rake Punished, or Don Giovanni'') is an opera in two acts with music by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart to an Italian libretto by Lorenzo Da Ponte. Its subject is a centuries-old Spanis ...
ran from September 2012 to January 2013 at
Theater Augsburg The Staatstheater Augsburg is a theatre of Augsburg, Germany. Until 1999 it was called Städtische Bühnen Augsburg, from then until the end of August 2018 it was called ''Theater Augsburg''. It offers on four stages musical theatre, plays and bal ...
. The production was described as "a pleasure for the senses and the intellect" (Donau Kurier) and as "living, exciting musical theater" (Süddeutsche Zeitung). Kinmonth was engaged by Cologne Opera to direct and design
Franz Schreker Franz Schreker (originally ''Schrecker''; 23 March 1878 – 21 March 1934) was an Austrian composer, conductor, teacher and administrator. Primarily a composer of operas, Schreker developed a style characterized by aesthetic plurality (a mixture ...
's Die Gezeichneten. The production combined ideas inspired by
film noir Film noir (; ) is a cinematic term used primarily to describe stylish Hollywood crime dramas, particularly those that emphasize cynical attitudes and motivations. The 1940s and 1950s are generally regarded as the "classic period" of American ' ...
and Scandinavian detective series with artworks and visual imagery from the time of Rubens, In a survey by critics in North Rhine Westphalia, Die Gezeichneten was nominated by both Ulrike Gondorf (WDR/DLF/SWR) and Christian Wildhagen (FAZ) as 'Best Production' of the 2012/13 season.


Selected productions


As director and designer

*2008
Madama Butterfly ''Madama Butterfly'' (; ''Madame Butterfly'') is an opera in three acts (originally two) by Giacomo Puccini, with an Italian libretto by Luigi Illica and Giuseppe Giacosa. It is based on the short story "Madame Butterfly" (1898) by John Luther ...
(co-designer with Darko Petrovic): Cologne Opera *2011 Samson et Dalila: Deutsche Oper Berlin; revived
Grand Théâtre de Genève Grand Théâtre de Genève is an opera house in Geneva, Switzerland. As with many other opera houses, the Grand Théâtre de Genève is both a venue and an institution. The venue is a majestic building, towering over Place Neuve, official ...
(2012);
St Matthew Passion The ''St Matthew Passion'' (german: Matthäus-Passion, links=-no), BWV 244, is a '' Passion'', a sacred oratorio written by Johann Sebastian Bach in 1727 for solo voices, double choir and double orchestra, with libretto by Picander. It sets ...
: Vocal Futures *2012
Don Giovanni ''Don Giovanni'' (; K. 527; Vienna (1788) title: , literally ''The Rake Punished, or Don Giovanni'') is an opera in two acts with music by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart to an Italian libretto by Lorenzo Da Ponte. Its subject is a centuries-old Spanis ...
: Theater Augsburg *2013 Die Gezeichneten: Cologne Opera; Rigoletto: Theater Augsburg; The Creation: Vocal Futures, London


As designer – sets and costumes (unless otherwise specified)

*1994 Die Zauberflöte (dir. Robert Carsen): Aix-en-Provence Festival and Opéra de Lyon (1996) *1998 Semele (dir. Carsen):
Vlaamse Opera The Vlaamse Opera (Flemish Opera) is an opera company in Belgium directed by Jan Vandenhouwe which operates in two different opera houses in two Flemish cities, the Vlaamse Opera Antwerp at Van Ertbornstraat 8 and the Vlaamse Opera Ghent at Schouwbu ...
; revived Aix Festival (1998) and English National Opera (1999). Revised production presented at Zurich Opera (2007). English National Opera's staging was broadcast on BBC2 and nominated for an Olivier Award. *1999 Die Zauberflöte (new production; dir. Carsen): Vienna Volksoper; Jenůfa (dir. Carsen): Vlaamse Opera *2000 Tamerlano (dir. Pierre Audi): Drottningholm Palace Theatre; Das Rheingold (dir. Carsen): Cologne Opera *2001 The Cunning Little Vixen (dir. Carsen): Vlaamse Opera; Die Walküre (dir. Carsen): Cologne Opera *2002
Siegfried Siegfried is a German-language male given name, composed from the Germanic elements ''sig'' "victory" and ''frithu'' "protection, peace". The German name has the Old Norse cognate ''Sigfriðr, Sigfrøðr'', which gives rise to Swedish ''Sigfrid' ...
(dir. Carsen): Cologne Opera; La clemenza di Tito (dir. Audi; costumes only): De Nederlandse Opera *2003 Alcina (dir. Audi): Drottningholm Palace Theatre; Götterdämmerung (dir. Carsen): Cologne Opera *2004 Der Ring des Nibelungen (dir. Carsen): Cologne Opera;
La traviata ''La traviata'' (; ''The Fallen Woman'') is an opera in three acts by Giuseppe Verdi set to an Italian libretto by Francesco Maria Piave. It is based on ''La Dame aux camélias'' (1852), a play by Alexandre Dumas ''fils'' adapted from his own 18 ...
(dir. Carsen): La Fenice; Kát'a Kabanová (dir. Carsen): Vlaamse Opera and
Teatro alla Scala La Scala (, , ; abbreviation in Italian of the official name ) is a famous opera house in Milan, Italy. The theatre was inaugurated on 3 August 1778 and was originally known as the ' (New Royal-Ducal Theatre alla Scala). The premiere performan ...
(2006) *2005 Zoroastre (dir. Audi): Drottningholm Palace Theatre *2007
Lamento d'Arianna ' ( SV 291, ''Ariadne'') is the lost second opera by Italian composer Claudio Monteverdi. One of the earliest operas in general, it was composed in 1607–1608 and first performed on 28 May 1608, as part of the musical festivities for a royal wed ...
,
Il ballo delle ingrate ''Il ballo delle ingrate'' (''The Ballet of the Female Ingrates'') is a semi-dramatic ballet by the Italian composer Claudio Monteverdi set to a libretto by Ottavio Rinuccini. It was first performed in Mantua on Wednesday, 4 June 1608 as part of t ...
and
Il combattimento di Tancredi e Clorinda ''Il combattimento di Tancredi e Clorinda'' (''The Combat of Tancredi and Clorinda''), SV 153, is an operatic ''scena'' for three voices by Claudio Monteverdi. The libretto is drawn from Torquato Tasso's ''La Gerusalemme Liberata''. It was firs ...
(dir. Audi; set co-designer with Chloe Obolensky, Jannis Kounellis, costume co-designer with Obolensky): De Nederlandse Opera *2008
Castor et Pollux ''Castor et Pollux'' (''Castor and Pollux'') is an opera by Jean-Philippe Rameau, first performed on 24 October 1737 by the Académie royale de musique at its theatre in the Palais-Royal in Paris. The librettist was Pierre-Joseph-Justin Bernard, ...
(dir. Audi): De Nederlandse Opera; Elektra (dir. Guy Joosten): Gran Teatre del Liceu; Pelléas et Mélisande (dir. Audi; costumes only): La Monnaie *2009 Partenope (dir. Audi): Theater an der Wien *2010 A Guest House (choreographer, Fernando Melo): GöteborgsOperans Danskompani *2010
Orlando Furioso ''Orlando furioso'' (; ''The Frenzy of Orlando'', more loosely ''Raging Roland'') is an Italian epic poem by Ludovico Ariosto which has exerted a wide influence on later culture. The earliest version appeared in 1516, although the poem was no ...
(dir. Audi):
Théâtre des Champs-Élysées The Théâtre des Champs-Élysées () is an entertainment venue standing at 15 avenue Montaigne in Paris. It is situated near Avenue des Champs-Élysées, from which it takes its name. Its eponymous main hall may seat up to 1,905 people, while th ...
*2011 Fountain (choreographer, Fernando Melo): Staatstheater am Gärtnerplatz *2012 Tending to Fall (choreographer, Fernando Melo): GöteborgsOperans Danskompani


Exhibitions and creative direction

Alongside his work for the stage, Kinmonth has achieved success as a creative director and exhibition curator. He first served as creative consultant to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2004, designing its exhibition Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the 18th Century.
Jayne Wrightsman Jayne Kirkman Wrightsman (née Larkin; October 21, 1919 – April 20, 2019) was an American philanthropist, arts collector and widow of Charles B. Wrightsman (1895–1986). She was named to the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in ...
, trustee of the museum's Wrightsman Galleries, was impressed by Kinmonth's work for Dangerous Liaisons and recommended that he should serve as consultant to the renovation and reinstallation of the galleries. The refurbished Wrightsman Galleries reopened on 30 October 2007. Kinmonth-Monfreda Design Projects, founded in London in 2004, launched Kinmonth's collaboration with Italian art director Antonio Monfreda. They were employed as creative consultants to the exhibition AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion, presented at the Metropolitan Museum of Art New York in 2006. Their exhibition Valentino a Roma: 45 Years of Style offered a major retrospective of Valentino Garavani's work. The presentation, commissioned by
Giancarlo Giammetti Giancarlo Giammetti (born 5 February 1942) is an Italian businessman, known for his professional and personal association with Valentino Garavani. He is the founder with Valentino Garavani of the Valentino fashion house. He is the Honour Presiden ...
, included over 350 costumes and design sketches, photographs and personal memorabilia from Valentino's personal archives. Kinmonth and Monfreda went on to conceive and design the exhibition Valentino: Themes and Variations for the Musée des Arts Décoratifs at the Palais du Louvre (2008) and Valentino: Master of Couture, specially designed for
Somerset House Somerset House is a large Neoclassical complex situated on the south side of the Strand in central London, overlooking the River Thames, just east of Waterloo Bridge. The Georgian era quadrangle was built on the site of a Tudor palace ("O ...
to celebrate Valentino's 80th birthday year and the 50th anniversary of his couture label (2012). Their exhibition Making Dreams: Fendi and the Cinema opened at Cinema Manzoni, Milan in September 2013, and included their elegiac film homage Amphitheatre24 to Cinecittà directed by Kinmonth and Monfreda. This marked the first project by their company The Visual Clinic. Kinmonth curated and designed Diana: Princess of Wales, an exhibition of iconic images and previously unseen photographs by Mario Testino created in 2005 for
Kensington Palace Kensington Palace is a royal residence set in Kensington Gardens, in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea in London, England. It has been a residence of the British royal family since the 17th century, and is currently the official L ...
. He has also worked as curator and designer for Testino's Todo o Nada (Thyssen Bornemisza, 2010; Palazzo Ruspoli, Rome, 2011; MATE Centre, Lima, 2012); In Your Face and British Royal Portraits ( Boston Museum of Fine Arts, 2012–13), and Private View (Beijing
Today Art Museum The Today Art Museum is a museum located in Beijing. References {{authority control Museums in Beijing Art museums and galleries in China Art museums established in 2002 2002 establishments in China ...
, 2012 and Shanghai Art Museum, 2012). British Royal Portraits is exhibited at the
National Portrait Gallery National Portrait Gallery may refer to: *National Portrait Gallery (Australia), in Canberra *National Portrait Gallery (Sweden), in Mariefred *National Portrait Gallery (United States), in Washington, D.C. *National Portrait Gallery, London, with s ...
(2012–13) and collaborated with Testino on his books: Portraits, Any Objections, Let Me In, Todo o Nada. An exhibition of Kinmonth's artwork ET IN ARCADIA EGO opened at Maestro Arts Gallery in London on 27 November 2013.


Architectural and interior design

Kinmonth-Monfreda Design Project designed the first Missoni Boutique in Los Angeles which opened in March 2010. They also delivered the architectural design for the virtual design of the pioneering 3-D architectural design of the Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum, launched online in December 2011.


Awards

*Prix d'Italia 2006 for Best Opera Production, Kát'a Kabanová (Teatro alla Scala) *Voted Wall Street Journal Magazine 2012 Innovator of the Year Award: Design *Prix des critiques francophone for Elektra at La Monnaie, Brussels *Prix d’Italia several times with Robert Carsen *Die Gezeichneten voted best opera production of 2013 by Frankfurter Allgemeine/ wdr/ Süddeutsche Zeitung


Writings

*Mr Potter's Pigeon *Journalism consisting writing for Vogue America, Vogue Italia, Vogue UK (1980–2013) as well as journals including Vanity Fair, Auditorium *Introduction to Mario Testino, Any Objections? (Phaidon, 2004) *
Tessa Traeger Tessa Traeger (born 1938) is a British photographer. She is known for her still life and food photography, and has worked as an advertising photographer. Her work has been published in two books of her own; included in a number of books with othe ...
A Gardener's Labyrinth: Portraits of People, Plants and Places *Foreword to Allegra Hicks, An Eye for Design (New York: Abrams, 2010) *Patrick Kinmonth, Anthony Fry: Paintings and Works on Paper, 2000–2011 (New York: Umbrage Editions, 2011)


Videography

*La traviata at La Fenice, Zoroastre at Drottningholm, *Semele (dir. Carsen; design Kinmonth; TV dir. Felix Breisach), Zurich Opera (2007), Decca DVD 0743326 *Il combattimento di Tancredi e Clorinda (dir. Audi; costume and set design Kinmonth, Obolensky & Kounellis; TV), Opus Arte DVD OA0972BD *Kát'a Kabanová (dir. Carsen; design Kinmonth) Teatro Real, Madrid (2010), FRAProd FRA003


References


External links

*Maestro Arts webpage
''Dangerous liaisons : fashion and furniture in the eighteenth century''
a 2006 exhibition catalog from the Metropolitan Museum of Art libraries {{DEFAULTSORT:Kinmonth, Patrick Living people 1957 births Opera designers British theatre directors British opera directors 20th-century British painters British male painters 21st-century British painters British costume designers English musical theatre directors Irish theatre directors 20th-century Irish painters 21st-century Irish painters Irish male painters Irish costume designers Alumni of Mansfield College, Oxford 20th-century Irish male artists