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Pat Ament (born September 3, 1946) is an American
rock climber Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically an ...
, filmmaker, musician, and artist who lives in
Fruita, Colorado The City of Fruita is a home rule municipality located in western Mesa County, Colorado, United States. The city population was 13,395 at the 2020 United States Census. Fruita is a part of the Grand Junction, CO Metropolitan Statistical Area a ...
. Noted for
first ascents In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route A climbing route is a path by which a climber rea ...
in the 1960s and 1970s, he is the author of many articles and books.


Climbing career

Ament began climbing in 1958, and by the mid 1960s had established the first 5.11 climbs in
Colorado Colorado (, other variants) is a state in the Mountain states, Mountain West subregion of the Western United States. It encompasses most of the Southern Rocky Mountains, as well as the northeastern portion of the Colorado Plateau and the wes ...
(''Supremacy Crack'') and Yosemite (''Center Route on the Slack''). A college gymnast, he was a dedicated boulderer and put up many challenging problems on Flagstaff Mountain in Boulder, Colorado, elsewhere in Colorado and in
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Valley ( ; ''Yosemite'', Miwok for "killer") is a glacial valley in Yosemite National Park in the western Sierra Nevada mountains of Central California. The valley is about long and deep, surrounded by high granite summits such as Hal ...
. His climbing and bouldering companions over the years have included
Royal Robbins Royal Robbins (February 3, 1935 – March 14, 2017) was one of the pioneers of American rock climbing. After learning to climb at Tahquitz Rock, he went on to make first ascents of many big wall routes in Yosemite. As an early proponent of bol ...
, Bob Kamps,
Don Whillans Donald Desbrow Whillans (18 May 1933 – 4 August 1985) was an English rock climber and mountaineer. He climbed with Joe Brown and Chris Bonington on many new routes, and was considered the technical equal of both. Early life Born and brought ...
, Tom Higgins,
John Gill John Gill may refer to: Sports *John Gill (cricketer) (1854–1888), New Zealand cricketer *John Gill (coach) (1898–1997), American football coach *John Gill (footballer, born 1903), English professional footballer *John Gill (American football) ...
, and Layton Kor.


Climbing author and filmmaker

Ament's best-known written works are his biographies of Royal Robbins and John Gill. He wrote a compendium of ascents and climbers in his 2002 work, "Wizards of Rock: A History of Free Climbing in America," and his "Climbing Everest" is a philosophical essay, adorned with cartoons by the author. Ament is a poet and artist. He won the "Artist Award" from the Art Department of the University of Colorado in 1967. He is a photographer and has given talks around the country, illustrated with his photos. He was twice guest speaker for the British National Mountaineering Festival and has won several awards for films he has made, including from Austria and the University of Geneva, Switzerland. In September, 2013, Ament was inducted into the Boulder Sports Hall of Fame.


''Disciples of Gill''

In November 2009, he released his latest film ''Disciples of Gill'', a documentary about John Gill and the boulderers he inspired, such as Jim Holloway and Ament himself. The film features archival footage from 40 years ago as well as modern interviews with older climbers describing where they are now. During the filming, Ament himself took a fall, seriously injuring his leg.


Publications

Pat Ament has had over a hundred articles published in mountaineering magazines, journals, and other publications. Dozens of his articles have been included in anthologies of the best climbing and mountaineering writings. His books include: * Ament, Pat (1967). "High Over Boulder" (first of 5 revised editions). D&K Printing, Boulder, Colorado. * Ament, Pat (1973). "Swaramandal." Vitaar Publishing. Boulder. * Ament, Pat (1977). "Master of Rock (the Biography of John Gill)." Alpine House, Boulder. * Ament, Pat (1978). "Rock Wise, reflections, safety, and technique in rock climbing." March Press, Boulder. * Ament, Pat (1980). "Eldorado -- a rock climber's guide." March Press, Boulder. * Ament, Pat (1980). "A Climber's Playground, a guide to the boulders of Flagstaff Mountain." March Press. * Ament, Pat (1984). "Direct Lines." Two Lights, Boulder. * * Ament, Pat (1989). "Care And Consciousness in Climbing." Two Lights Publishing, Boulder. * Ament, Pat (1991). "High Endeavors." Mountain N' Air Books, La Crescenta, California. * Ament, Pat (1996). ''Stories of a Young Climber''. Two Lights, Boulder. * * Ament, Pat (1998). ''Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age.'' Stackpole Books, Pennsylvania. * Ament, Pat (1998). ''John Gill: Master of Rock.'' Stackpole Books, Pennsylvania. * Ament, Pat (1999). "Reflections on Being the Best Climber in the World." Two Lights Publishing. * Ament, Pat (1999). "Ten Keys to Climb Everest." Two Lights Publishing. * Ament, Pat (1999). ''Climbing Everest''. Ragged Mountain Press/McGraw-Hill. * Ament, Pat (2002). "Climber's Choice (best writers present their work)." Ragged Mountain/McGraw-Hill. * Ament, Pat (2002). ''Wizards of Rock: A History of Free Climbing in America''. Wilderness Press, Berkeley. * Ament, Pat (2003). "Too High, misadventures on Everest (a book of cartoons)." Two Lights. * Ament, Pat (2005). "Everything That Matters, (Remembering Rock Climbing)." Two Lights. ''Master of Rock'' and ''Spirit of the Age'' have been translated and published in Japanese, Italian, and Spanish.


References


External links


Pat Ament's Music - personal website

''Climbing'' magazine - The Complete Pat Ament Interview
{{DEFAULTSORT:Ament, Pat American rock climbers 1946 births Living people