Parfums Caron
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Parfums Caron is a French perfume house founded in 1904 by
Ernest Daltroff Ernest Daltroff (17 November 1867 – 3 February 1941), was a French perfumer and the founder of Parfums Caron in 1904. Biography Ernest Léon René Lucien Daltroff was born to an upper middle class family originally from Russia. His mother Id ...
. Over the course of the years, many Caron Perfumes were created. As of 2019, the brand is owned by Luxembourg-based Cattleya.


Foundation

Caron was founded in 1904 by Ernest Daltroff (1867-1941) who chose a short name, easy to remember in several languages while still being associated with France. The house was first located at 10
rue de la Paix The rue de la Paix (English: Peace Street) () is a fashionable shopping street in the center of Paris. Located in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris, running north from Place Vendôme and ending at the Opéra Garnier, it is best known for its jewe ...
in Paris. In 1906, Daltroff met Félicie Wanpouille (1874-1967), a young
milliner Hat-making or millinery is the design, manufacture and sale of hats and other headwear. A person engaged in this trade is called a milliner or hatter. Historically, milliners, typically women shopkeepers, produced or imported an inventory of ...
who also worked on rue de la Paix, she introduced him to her clients, and soon became his business partner and muse. He created the perfumes, she created the bottles. Perfumes and powders were distributed in France through a network of Parisian department stores, then as early as 1923 Caron entered the American market.


Perfumes

The house's first famous perfume, ''Narcisse Noir'' (1911), reached Hollywood. In the 1950s, on the set of ''
Sunset Boulevard Sunset Boulevard is a boulevard in the central and western part of Los Angeles, California, that stretches from the Pacific Coast Highway in Pacific Palisades east to Figueroa Street in Downtown Los Angeles. It is a major thoroughfare in t ...
'',
Gloria Swanson Gloria May Josephine Swanson (March 27, 1899April 4, 1983) was an American actress and producer. She first achieved fame acting in dozens of silent films in the 1920s and was nominated three times for the Academy Award for Best Actress, most f ...
pronounces the name of the perfume. The title of the 1947 film
Black Narcissus ''Black Narcissus'' is a 1947 British Psychological fiction, psychological drama film written, produced, and directed by Powell and Pressburger, Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger, and starring Deborah Kerr, Kathleen Byron, Sabu Dastagir, S ...
refers to this very perfume. First created in powder form, the perfume ''N'Aimez Que Moi'' was launched in 1917, designed for young women waiting for the return of their beloved who had gone to war. In 1919,
World War I World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, the United States, and the Ottoman Empire, with fightin ...
is over, women discovered the pleasure of smoking tobacco. Caron invented the perfume ''Tabac Blond''. In 1932, after the exploits of the first female pilots, Daltroff launched ''En Avion''. As women discover sport and speed, Daltroff created a light and dynamic fragrance that reflected the new lifestyle. In 1933, he launched Fleurs de Rocaille, which represents the modern femininity of the 1930s. In 1934, at a time when men mainly used colognes, Daltroff, who was always convinced that a man should wear perfume, boldly launched a masculine fragrance ''Pour un homme''. After World War II, in 1954, Félicie Wanpouille launched a new perfume ''Poivre '' . The production of Caron fragrance bottles was at times entrusted to workshops such as
Baccarat Baccarat or baccara (; ) is a card game played at casinos. It is a comparing card game played between two hands, the "player" and the "banker". Each baccarat coup (round of play) has three possible outcomes: "player" (player has the higher score ...
or Daum . The house is also known for its loose powders scented with Bulgarian Rose, the ''Pompon Poudre''.


Business

Caron is one of the oldest French perfume houses still exclusively dedicated to perfume. After World War I , in 1918, Ernest Daltroff was invited to the
Bronx International Exposition of Science, Arts and Industries The Bronx International Exposition of Science, Arts and Industries was a world's fair held in the Bronx, New York City, United States, in 1918. Meant to commemorate the 300th anniversary of the Bronx's settlement, it failed to become popular, as t ...
in New York with his competitor
François Coty François Coty (born Joseph Marie François Spoturno in Corsica ; 3 May 1874 – 25 July 1934) was a French perfumer, businessman, newspaper publisher, politician and patron of the arts. He was the founder of the Coty perfume company, today a ...
, where he won the prize for the most go-ahead company, opening up the American market for him for the
Interwar period In the history of the 20th century, the interwar period lasted from 11 November 1918 to 1 September 1939 (20 years, 9 months, 21 days), the end of the World War I, First World War to the beginning of the World War II, Second World War. The in ...
.. In 1923 a New York affiliate, "The Caron Corporation", opened a store on
Fifth Avenue Fifth Avenue is a major and prominent thoroughfare in the borough of Manhattan in New York City. It stretches north from Washington Square Park in Greenwich Village to West 143rd Street in Harlem. It is one of the most expensive shopping stre ...
, and a factory outside the city. In 1925, three quarters of Caron's total business was in the United States. In 1939, Ernest Daltroff moved to New York and left the management in France to Félicité Wanpouille. During the
German military administration in occupied France during World War II The Military Administration in France (german: Militärverwaltung in Frankreich; french: Occupation de la France par l'Allemagne) was an interim occupation authority established by Nazi Germany during World War II to administer the occupied zo ...
, the company was heavily taxed and in 1941, Caron risked
spoliation Spoliation may refer to: * Looting * Spoliation of evidence in a criminal investigation See also * Spoliation Advisory Panel *Nazi plunder Nazi plunder (german: Raubkunst) was the stealing of art and other items which occurred as a result ...
. As soon as the war ended, Félicité Wanpouille, who ran the company with her husband Jean Bergaud and perfumer Michel Morsetti trained by Daltroff, moved Caron to sumptuous quarters decorated by
Maison Jansen Maison Jansen (; en, House of Jansen) was a Paris-based interior decoration office founded in 1880 by Dutch-born Jean-Henri Jansen. Jansen is considered the first truly global design firm, serving clients in Europe, Latin America, North America a ...
at 10
Place Vendôme The Place Vendôme (), earlier known as Place Louis-le-Grand, and also as Place Internationale, is a square in the 1st arrondissement of Paris, France, located to the north of the Tuileries Gardens and east of the Église de la Madeleine. It is ...
. When she retired in 1962, the company was bought by
Revillon Frères Revillon Frères (Revillon Brothers) was a French fur and luxury goods company, founded in Paris in 1723. Then called ''la Maison Givelet'', it was purchased by Louis-Victor Revillon in 1839 and soon, as Revillon Frères, became the largest fur ...
. President
Jean-Paul Elkann Jean-Paul Elkann (28 December 1921 – 23 November 1996) was a French banker. He was president of Compagnie Financière Jean-Paul Elkann (CFJPE). Biography Early life and education Born in Paris, Jean-Paul Elkann was the son of Montbéliard-b ...
sold the salons on Place Vendôme and trivialised the brand, which nevertheless remained in French hands in spite of an offer to purchase 80,000 shares by Robins of Richmond, Virginia. In 1979, manager Henri Bertrand, who came from
Jean Patou Jean Patou (; 27 September 1887 – 8 March 1936) was a French fashion designer, and founder of the Jean Patou brand. Early life Patou was born in Paris, France in 1887. Patou's family's business was tanning and furs. Patou worked with his ...
, wished for a return to the brand's original values and opened a boutique on
Avenue Montaigne Avenue Montaigne () is a street in the 8th arrondissement of Paris, France. Origin of the name Avenue Montaigne was originally called the Allée des Veuves (widows' alley) because women in mourning gathered there, but the street has changed muc ...
. In 1986, during the Révillon-Cora merger-acquisition, the group did not wish to support its manager in the prestigious direction he had taken.. In 1997 Caron was sold to L.T. Piver and the following year was acquired by
Ales Groupe Ales Groupe is a cosmetics and fragrances company based in Paris Paris () is the Capital city, capital and List of communes in France with over 20,000 inhabitants, most populous city of France, with an estimated population of 2,165,423 res ...
, which modernised some fragrances and insisted on quality and natural ingredients, opened a boutique near the
Élysée Palace The Élysée Palace (french: Palais de l'Élysée; ) is the official residence of the President of the French Republic. Completed in 1722, it was built for nobleman and army officer Louis Henri de La Tour d'Auvergne, who had been appointed Gover ...
and another on
Madison Avenue Madison Avenue is a north-south avenue in the borough of Manhattan in New York City, United States, that carries northbound one-way traffic. It runs from Madison Square (at 23rd Street) to meet the southbound Harlem River Drive at 142nd Stre ...
in New York, also aiming at opening the Middle East market, and targeting the Russian one. Ales sold the brand at the end of 2018 to Cattleya Finance. Caron received the "Living Heritage Company" label from France and is a member of the
Comité Colbert The Comité Colbert is an association "to promote the concept of luxury." The members are 81 French luxury brands. It was founded in 1954 by Jean-Jacques Guerlain. ''Métiers'' or Trade Sectors The association is divided into thirteen métiers o ...
.


Bibliography

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References


External links


Official website
{{Authority control Perfume houses History of cosmetics French companies established in 1904 Comité Colbert members