Pancha (garment)

The dhoti, also known as veshti, vetti, dhuti, mardani, chaadra, dhotar, jaiñboh, panchey, is a type of sarong, tied in a manner that outwardly resembles "loose trousers". It is a lower garment forming part of the ethnic costume for men in the Indian subcontinent. The ''dhoti'' is fashioned out of a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth, usually around long, wrapped around the waist and the legs and knotted, either in the front or the back. The ''dhoti'' is touted as the male counterpart of the ''sari'' worn by females to religious and secular ceremonies ( functions). is a yellow silk dhoti, worn on auspicious occasions. The dhoti which is worn around the lower waist and drawn up in between the legs, is a 5-yard-long piece of woven fabric; it must not be confused with pre- stitched "dhoti pants", which are a new ready to wear trend these days, popular among women and typical of children.

Etymology

The word ''dhoti'' is derived from ''dhauti'' (Sanskrit: धौती), translated "to cleanse" or "to wash". In the context of clothing, it simply refers to the cleansed garment which was worn as part of everyday attireGovind Sadashiv Ghurye (1951) ''Indian Costume'' The dhoti evolved from the ancient antriya which was passed through the legs, tucked at the back and covered the legs loosely, then flowed into long pleats at front of the legs, the same way it is worn today as formal dhoti. While a casual and short dhoti wraps around both legs firmly, in this style the back side of dhoti is pulled to the front and tucked at the waist, before tucking the two loose ends at back, creating firmly fitted trouser-like dhoti that wraps around both legs. This style is more commonly worn by farmers and martial artists.

Names and styles

The garment is known by various names, such as:

Custom and usage

The ''pancha'' is worn by many conservative Jain men when they visit ''Derasars'' or ''Basadi''s for puja; unstitched clothing is believed by some Jains to be "less permeable to pollution" and therefore more appropriate for religious rituals than other garments. They also wear a loose and unstitched cloth, shorter than the ''pancha'' on top.

Hare Krishna, known for its distinctive dress code, prompts Western adherents to wear ''pancha'', usually of saffron or white cloth folded in a traditional style. Maharishi Mahesh Yogi was known for wearing a white silk dhoti.

The ''dhoti'' has been ethnically worn by farmers, ''pehlwano'' (wrestlers) and shepherds (grazers) of the Sikhs in the Punjab region; it was discouraged during the Punjab Subah Movement, owing it to the inter-communal tensions prevalent at the time. The ''dhothi'' was also worn by South Canarese Christian men to their pre-nup ceremonies, Church weddings and receptions until the 1960s, when they fell out of favour; since then grooms have been styling the black suit and tie instead.

In India, there's a distinction between the lungi, a similar garment often worn by people at their homes, as it is more casual and comfortable, dhoti is sometimes even worn by secular politicians. At the height of the Indian Independence Movement, weaving was a symbol of the '' Swadeshi Movement''. In 1921, the famed M K Gandhi himself championed the ''dhoti'' to identify with and to promote, the weaves and other handicrafts produced by the rural and the poor of his homeland.

See also

*Dhoti Lota Aur Chowpatty
* Khadi
* Khādī Development and Village Industries Commission
* Kilt
* Lederhosen
* Longyi
* Mundu
* Malong
* Sompot
* Sompot Chong Kben
* Sarong
* Shendyt
* Toga
* Harem pants

References

{{Folk costume

Hindu religious clothing
Indian clothing
Pakistani clothing
Folk costumes