Ottorino Mezzalama
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Ottorino Mezzalama (born September 25, 1888 – February 23, 1931
/ref>) was an Italian
mountain climber Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, an ...
, and is deemed to be one of the two pioneers of Italian
ski mountaineering Ski mountaineering (abbreviated to skimo) is a skiing discipline that involves climbing mountains either on skis or carrying them, depending on the steepness of the ascent, and then descending on skis. There are two major categories of equipmen ...
besides Luciano Roiti. He died in an avalanche accident in the Rochemolles Valley. The ''Ottorino Mezzalama'' Hut of the
Club Alpino Italiano The Club Alpino Italiano is the senior Italian alpine club which stages climbing competitions, operates alpine huts, marks and maintains paths, and is active in protecting the Alpine environment. It was founded in Turin in 1863 by the then finan ...
(CAI) below Pollux as well as the famous Mezzalama Trophy competition and the
Mezzalama Skyrace The Mezzalama Skyrace was an international high altitude endurance race competition, defunct in 2008, in upper Valtournenche Valley, in the Aosta Valley, Italy. The summer event in the Monte Rosa's massif has been carried out annually by the Mezz ...
were named in honor of him.


Life

Mezzalama was born in
Bologna Bologna (, , ; egl, label= Emilian, Bulåggna ; lat, Bononia) is the capital and largest city of the Emilia-Romagna region in Northern Italy. It is the seventh most populous city in Italy with about 400,000 inhabitants and 150 different nat ...
and moved with his family to
Turin Turin ( , Piedmontese language, Piedmontese: ; it, Torino ) is a city and an important business and cultural centre in Northern Italy. It is the capital city of Piedmont and of the Metropolitan City of Turin, and was the first Italian capital ...
on March 28, 1892. In his teens he gained first experiences in mountain climbing. He was a good friend of the Swiss engineer
Adolfo Kind Adolf respectively Adolfo Kind (1848 in Chur – August 1907) was a Swiss chemical engineer and one of the fathers of Italian skiing. Life Kind was born in 1848 to a German-speaking Walser family, which had been living in Chur for more than f ...
and of the artillery Lieutenant Luciano Roiti, who published "Delle marce sulla neve" (Italian for ''about marching on snow''), a paper about ski mountaineering in the army. All three became members of the CAI and founded the
Ski Club Torino A ski is a narrow strip of semi-rigid material worn underfoot to glide over snow. Substantially longer than wide and characteristically employed in pairs, skis are attached to ski boots with ski bindings, with either a free, lockable, or partial ...
. After he finished school, Mezzalama began his studies at the university faculty of trading and economy, but had to leave the university because he was drafted by the army in 1909. In the
Italo-Turkish War The Italo-Turkish or Turco-Italian War ( tr, Trablusgarp Savaşı, "Tripolitanian War", it, Guerra di Libia, "War of Libya") was fought between the Kingdom of Italy and the Ottoman Empire from 29 September 1911, to 18 October 1912. As a result o ...
he was deployed in the rank of a Sergente at the
Libya Libya (; ar, ليبيا, Lībiyā), officially the State of Libya ( ar, دولة ليبيا, Dawlat Lībiyā), is a country in the Maghreb region in North Africa. It is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the north, Egypt to Egypt–Libya bo ...
n front in 1912, and was awarded for his service. After his release in 1913, he continued his university studies as well as skiing and mountain climbing.Giuseppe Martelli
''Il rifugio "Ottorino Mezzalama" - chi era Ottorino Mezzalama?''
(Italian), November 1, 2005.


World War I

In the course of the general Italian mobilization during
World War I World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, the United States, and the Ottoman Empire, with fightin ...
, he was drafted again by the army in October 1915. Together with his later friend Pietro Ghiglione, a mountain climber and writer, he served in the 3rd Alpini Regiment. Concerning to his advanced academic studies, he was made Sottotenente, became Tenente in 1916 and Capitano in 1917. During his services he was technical director of military ski training. He gave his first course at the
Little St Bernard Pass The Little St Bernard Pass (French: ''Col du Petit Saint-Bernard'', Italian: ''Colle del Piccolo San Bernardo'') is a mountain pass in the Alps on the France–Italy border. Its saddle is at 2188 metres above sea level. It is located between S ...
, the second in the
Champorcher Champorcher ( frp, Tsamportsé, lit=field of PorciusA Roman Catholic saint, according to the legend one of the matyrs of the Theban Legion.) is a ''comune'' in the Aosta Valley region of northwestern Italy Italy ( it, Italia ), officially t ...
Valley, and further ones in several alpine areas apart the conflict areas. All in all he trained about 3,000 "White Warriors from the
Adamello Adamello (in local dialect ''Adamèl'') is a mountain in Lombardy, Italy. With an elevation of , it is the second highest peak of the Adamello-Presanella Alps. It is located in Valcamonica, Lombardy (Province of Brescia). Its glacier, measure ...
" of 26 skiing units of 13 battalions until 1917, the year when the 3rd Alpini Regiment got the name affix "
Courmayeur Courmayeur (; Valdôtain: ) is a town and ''comune'' in northern Italy, in the autonomous region of Aosta Valley. History The toponym ''Courmayeur'' has been mentioned as ''Curia majori'' (1233–1381), ''Corte Maggiore'' (1620), ''Cormoyeu'' (164 ...
" It is reported that Mezzalama always wore a big 15–25 kg rucksack on his ski tours, that he never left to anybody. In care of possible surprises in the mountains, it contained all essentially things. Mezzalama commented, that the only thing, that would be really planable was the start of a ski tour, never the return.


Postwar period

After the war he, returned to the university and lived together with his mother. Additionally he explored the
Alps The Alps () ; german: Alpen ; it, Alpi ; rm, Alps ; sl, Alpe . are the highest and most extensive mountain range system that lies entirely in Europe, stretching approximately across seven Alpine countries (from west to east): France, Sw ...
on ski and amongst others, he took part in the first Italian complete
Mont Blanc Mont Blanc (french: Mont Blanc ; it, Monte Bianco , both meaning "white mountain") is the highest mountain in the Alps and Western Europe, rising above sea level. It is the second-most prominent mountain in Europe, after Mount Elbrus, and i ...
ski-run in 1927. Mezzolama was one of the volunteers, who took part in a search and rescue action, after an avalanche descended in the Rochemolles Valley upside the
Bardonecchia Bardonecchia (; french: Bardonèche or ; pms, Bardonecia ; oc, Bardonescha ) is an Italian town and ''comune'' located in the Metropolitan City of Turin, in the Piedmont region, in the western part of Susa Valley. It grew out of a small village ...
in 1931. 20  Alpinis of the 3rd Regiment were missed. Mezzalama and Domenico Mazzocchi were overtaken by a thunderstorm on the peak of the Bicchiere, and were urged to stay in the frosty "Elena" Hut (today: ''"Rifugio Gino Biasi"'') for three days. They were both worn out, when they descended on the fourth day, and when an avalanche caught Mezzalama and carried him downhill. Mazzocchi tried to find him till the darkness rose, but his attempts were in vain. On the next day, his corpse was found by a team of the CAI
Bolzano Bolzano ( or ; german: Bozen, (formerly ); bar, Bozn; lld, Balsan or ) is the capital city of the province of South Tyrol in northern Italy. With a population of 108,245, Bolzano is also by far the largest city in South Tyrol and the third la ...
section.''History and legend of the highest altitude alpine skiing in the world''
Trofeo Mezzalama website.


Literature

* Umberto Pelazza, Antonio Vizzi: ''Mezzalama Trophy - Myth and Reality 1933–1997.''


References


See also

* Refuge Ottorino Mezzalama * Mezzalama Trophy *
Mezzalama Skyrace The Mezzalama Skyrace was an international high altitude endurance race competition, defunct in 2008, in upper Valtournenche Valley, in the Aosta Valley, Italy. The summer event in the Monte Rosa's massif has been carried out annually by the Mezz ...
{{DEFAULTSORT:Mezzalama, Ottorino Italian male ski mountaineers Italian soldiers Sportspeople from Bologna 1888 births 1931 deaths Deaths in avalanches Italian military personnel of the Italo-Turkish War Natural disaster deaths in Italy