The New York style bagel is the original style of
bagel
A bagel ( yi, בײגל, translit=beygl; pl, bajgiel; also spelled beigel) is a bread roll originating in the Jewish communities of Poland. It is traditionally shaped by hand into a roughly hand-sized ring from yeasted wheat dough that is first ...
available in the
United States
The United States of America (U.S.A. or USA), commonly known as the United States (U.S. or US) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It consists of 50 states, a federal district, five major unincorporated territori ...
, originating from the
Jewish community of New York City, and can trace its origins to the bagels made by the
Ashkenazi Jews of Poland.
A traditional New York style is typically larger and fatter than a mass-produced bagel, or a wood-fired
Montreal-style bagel
The Montreal-style bagel or Montreal bagel (sometimes beigel; yi, בײגל, translit=beygl; french: Bagel de Montréal) is a distinctive variety of handmade and wood-fired baked bagel. In contrast to the New York-style bagel, which also cont ...
. They have also grown over time, from about in 1915 to in 2003.
History
As Jewish refugees from
Poland
Poland, officially the Republic of Poland, is a country in Central Europe. It is divided into 16 administrative provinces called voivodeships, covering an area of . Poland has a population of over 38 million and is the fifth-most populou ...
and Eastern Europe began to arrive in New York City en masse in the 1800s, they brought their traditional foods with them such as
challah
Challah (, he, חַלָּה or ; plural: or ) is a special bread of Ashkenazi Jewish origin, usually braided and typically eaten on ceremonial occasions such as Shabbat and major Jewish holidays (other than Passover). Ritually acceptable ch ...
,
brisket
Brisket is a cut of meat from the breast or lower chest of beef or veal. The beef brisket is one of the nine beef primal cuts, though the definition of the cut differs internationally. The brisket muscles include the superficial and deep pectora ...
,
knish
A knish is a traditional Ashkenazi Jewish snack food consisting of a filling covered with dough that is typically baked or sometimes deep fried.
Knishes are often purchased from street vendors in urban areas with a large Jewish population, some ...
es, and bagels. For many decades, bagels were little known outside of the Jewish community, where their popularity was widespread. Bagels became so popular among the Jewish community of New York, that
union
Union commonly refers to:
* Trade union, an organization of workers
* Union (set theory), in mathematics, a fundamental operation on sets
Union may also refer to:
Arts and entertainment
Music
* Union (band), an American rock group
** ''Un ...
s were formed to represent bagel bakers in the city, such as
Bagel Bakers Local 338
The Bagel Bakers Local 338 was a trade union local that was established in the early 1900s in New York City and whose craftsmen were the primary makers of New York's bagels, prepared by hand, until the advent of machine-made bagels in the 1960s ...
, which by the early 1910s represented over 300 bagel craftsman in Manhattan.
New York-style bagels are the original bagel available in the United States. Although various cities spanning the globe have their own distinct style of cooking and serving bagels, the concept of the bagel originated on the Lower East Side, in Manhattan, New York. The bagel was created as a filling, tasty, inexpensive treat for Jewish immigrants living in Manhattan in the 1800s. The bagel quickly spread around New York City, across the United States, and was soon adapted in various forms across the world. The idea of a bagel in its modern-day form is native to New York City, particularly the Jewish community there.
Beginning in the 1960s, the popularity of the New York style bagel began to increase with the non-Jewish population of New York City and beyond. Over the decades the size of the New York style bagel increased from around 3 ounces to the more commonly found 6 ounces sizes today.
Texture and flavor
Many people claim the main difference in taste and texture of a real New York bagel compared to other styles of bagels, is due to the use of
New York City
New York, often called New York City or NYC, is the most populous city in the United States. With a 2020 population of 8,804,190 distributed over , New York City is also the most densely populated major city in the Un ...
tap water, which contains certain minerals which they attribute to creating a better bagel, specifically the low concentrations of
calcium
Calcium is a chemical element with the symbol Ca and atomic number 20. As an alkaline earth metal, calcium is a reactive metal that forms a dark oxide-nitride layer when exposed to air. Its physical and chemical properties are most similar t ...
and
magnesium
Magnesium is a chemical element with the symbol Mg and atomic number 12. It is a shiny gray metal having a low density, low melting point and high chemical reactivity. Like the other alkaline earth metals (group 2 of the periodic ta ...
found in New York water, which makes the water softer. NYC municipal water also has a high level of
TDS, or sediment, and this also makes the water softer which has been claimed to strengthen the
gluten
Gluten is a structural protein naturally found in certain cereal grains. Although "gluten" often only refers to wheat proteins, in medical literature it refers to the combination of prolamin and glutelin proteins naturally occurring in all grai ...
in the bagel dough, helping to create the chewy on the inside, crispy on the outside bagel that represents a New York style bagel.
Christopher Pugliese, owner of a popular bagel shop in the
East Village attributes the New York style bagel's signature taste to "100% the water". The use of New York City water in a bagel has been compared to the
terroir
(, ; from ''terre'', "land") is a French term used to describe the environmental factors that affect a crop's phenotype, including unique environment contexts, farming practices and a crop's specific growth habitat. Collectively, these contex ...
of grape varietals used to make
champagne
Champagne (, ) is a sparkling wine originated and produced in the Champagne wine region of France under the rules of the appellation, that demand specific vineyard practices, sourcing of grapes exclusively from designated places within it, ...
.
Conversely, Peter Shelsky, co-owner of Shelsky's Brooklyn Bagels firmly believes that it is not the water. According to Mr. Shelsky, "New Jersey and Long Island, both are dotted with fantastic NY style bagels. Both New Jersey and Long Island have different water supplies, and that water has vastly different composition to that of New York City proper. A great bagel with the right texture can be made anywhere. It's not the water. It's the know-how."
However, the use of New York tap water in the bagel-making process may not be the only reason for the difference in texture and flavor in a NY bagel compared to other styles of bagel, according to Josh Polack, owner of a bagel shop in
Denver, Colorado
Denver () is a consolidated city and county, the capital, and most populous city of the U.S. state of Colorado. Its population was 715,522 at the 2020 census, a 19.22% increase since 2010. It is the 19th-most populous city in the Unit ...
which tries to mimic the water used in New York style bagels:
Preparation
A New York style bagel is always boiled in water that has had
barley malt
Malt is germinated cereal grain that has been dried in a process known as "malting". The grain is made to germinate by soaking in water and is then halted from germinating further by drying with hot air.
Malted grain is used to make beer, whi ...
added, which gives a bagel its signature taste, texture, and leathery skin. The bagels are then traditionally topped with sesame seeds, poppy seeds, dried onion or garlic, or
everything bagel seasoning, or are left plain or brushed with an egg wash. These are the traditional flavors of NY style bagels, there are also newer, less traditional flavors such as cinnamon raisin, and other sweet bagels, but these originated in the 1950s and ’60s, and are not traditional and have been criticized by New Yorkers and members of the Jewish community, and have even been called a ''
shonda''.
The bagels are then loaded onto burlap-covered cedar or pine boards which have been wetted down with water, or sometimes coated with
cornmeal or
semolina
Semolina is coarsely milled durum wheat mainly used in making couscous, and sweet puddings. The term semolina is also used to designate coarse millings of other varieties of wheat, and sometimes other grains (such as rice or corn) as well.
Ety ...
, and are then baked in the oven for a number of minutes. Halfway through the cooking process the baker takes the boards and flips the bagels over and removes the boards from the oven. The bagels are then removed and allowed to cool.
Serving
A fresh New York style bagel is traditionally never toasted.
Bagel with lox and schmear
According to Jewish culinary historian
Gil Marks Gilbert Stanley Marks (May 30, 1952 – December 5, 2014) was an American food writer and historian noted for his reference and cookbooks on the subject of Jewish food. He was the founding editor of ''Kosher Gourmet'' magazine. He moved to Israel ...
, the Jewish community in New York City developed the bagel with lox and
schmear
__NOTOC__
''Schmear'' is a word of Germanic origin, equivalent to "smear" or "spread" (usually fat or butter).
In some Germanic languages, the cognate of ''smear'' itself means butter (c.f. ''smör/smør'' in the North Germanic languages).
The u ...
in the 1930s as a
kosher adaption of
eggs benedict
Eggs Benedict is a common American breakfast or brunch dish, consisting of two halves of an English muffin, each topped with Canadian bacon, a poached egg, and hollandaise sauce. It was popularized in New York City.
Origin and history
There a ...
, which Jewish people are unable to eat due to eggs Benedict both containing pork and mixing dairy and meat (both of which are violations of
kashrut, Jewish dietary law). This was unique to the Jews of New York City, as Jewish communities in Poland had traditionally spread
schmaltz
Schmaltz (also spelled schmalz or shmalz) is rendered (clarified) chicken or goose fat. It is an integral part of traditional Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine, where it has been used for centuries in a wide array of dishes, such as chicken soup, lat ...
on their bagels, or had eaten them with
cholent
Cholent and other Sabbath stews ( yi, טשאָלנט, tsholnt ''or'' tshulnt) are traditional Jewish stews. It is usually simmered overnight for 10–12 hours or more, and eaten for lunch on Shabbat (the Sabbath). Shabbat stews were develope ...
, or other various soups and as a
dinner roll
Dinner usually refers to what is in many Western cultures the largest and most formal meal of the day, which is eaten in the evening. Historically, the largest meal used to be eaten around midday, and called dinner. Especially among the elite, ...
.
See also
*
Cuisine of New York City
The cuisine of New York City comprises many cuisines belonging to various ethnic groups that have entered the United States through the city. Almost all ethnic cuisines are well represented in New York, both within and outside the various ethni ...
References
{{Jewish baked goods
Ashkenazi Jewish culture in New York City
Bagels
Bagel
A bagel ( yi, בײגל, translit=beygl; pl, bajgiel; also spelled beigel) is a bread roll originating in the Jewish communities of Poland. It is traditionally shaped by hand into a roughly hand-sized ring from yeasted wheat dough that is first ...
Jewish American cuisine