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Harish Kapadia (born 11 July 1945) is a Himalayan
mountaineer Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, an ...
,
author An author is the writer of a book, article, play, mostly written work. A broader definition of the word "author" states: "''An author is "the person who originated or gave existence to anything" and whose authorship determines responsibility f ...
and long-time editor of the ''
Himalayan Journal The ''Himalayan Journal'' is the annual magazine of the Himalayan Club in India. History and profile The magazine was established in 1929. The first editor-in-chief was the English geographer Kenneth Mason. He was a surveyor operating from Shim ...
'' from
India India, officially the Republic of India (Hindi: ), is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by area, the second-most populous country, and the most populous democracy in the world. Bounded by the Indian Ocean on the so ...
. He has been awarded the Patron's Medal of the
Royal Geographical Society The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers), often shortened to RGS, is a learned society and professional body for geography based in the United Kingdom. Founded in 1830 for the advancement of geographical scien ...
, the Life Time Achievement Award for Adventure by the
President of India The president of India ( IAST: ) is the head of state of the Republic of India. The president is the nominal head of the executive, the first citizen of the country, as well as the commander-in-chief of the Indian Armed Forces. Droupadi Murmu ...
and the King Albert Mountain Award presented by The King Albert I Memorial Foundation. He has written numerous books and articles on the Indian Himalayas. Harish was awarded the Piolets d'Or Asia Life Time Achievement Award in 2017 for his mountaineering and exploratory endeavors.


Biography

He began climbing and trekking in the range around
Mumbai Mumbai (, ; also known as Bombay — the official name until 1995) is the capital city of the Indian state of Maharashtra and the ''de facto'' financial centre of India. According to the United Nations, as of 2018, Mumbai is the second- ...
, the Western Ghats. His first visit to the Himalayas was almost 40 years ago. His main contribution to Himalayan climbing has been to explore unknown areas and, in number of cases, to open up climbing possibilities. Among his major ascents are Devtoli (), Bandarpunch West (), Parilungbi () in 1995, and
Lungser Kangri Lungser Kangri is a mountain located in Ladakh, India. The mountain is located near the lake Tso Moriri and the village Karzok. It is high, making it the tallest mountain in the Rupshu area, as well as the second highest in the Mangrik area, w ...
(), the highest peak of
Rupshu Rupshu is a high elevation plateau and valley and an eponymous Community development block in India, community development block in southeast Ladakh. Description Frederic Drew describes the Rupshu valley as follows: Drew states that the valle ...
in
Ladakh Ladakh () is a region administered by India as a union territory which constitutes a part of the larger Kashmir region and has been the subject of dispute between India, Pakistan, and China since 1947. (subscription required) Quote: "Jammu and ...
. He led eight international joint expeditions, five with British, two with
French French (french: français(e), link=no) may refer to: * Something of, from, or related to France ** French language, which originated in France, and its various dialects and accents ** French people, a nation and ethnic group identified with Franc ...
and one with Japanese mountaineers, to high peaks, such as
Rimo I Rimo I is the main summit of the Rimo massif with an elevation of . Geography It lies in the northern part of the remote Rimo Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram range. It is located about 20 km northeast of the snout of the Siachen Gla ...
(), Chong Kumdan Kangri I (), Sudarshan Parvat, Padmanabh (), and the
Panch Chuli The Panchachuli (पंचाचुली) peaks are a group of five snow-capped Himalayan peaks lying at the end of the eastern Kumaon region, near the Dugtu village in Darma valley. The peaks have altitudes ranging from to . They form th ...
and
Rangrik Rang Rangrik Rang is a mountain in the Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh in India India, officially the Republic of India (Hindi: ), is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by area, the second-most populous country, ...
groups. In 1974, he fell into a crevasse at , deep inside the formidable Nanda Devi Sanctuary. He was carried by his companions for 13 days to the base camp where a
helicopter A helicopter is a type of rotorcraft in which lift and thrust are supplied by horizontally spinning rotors. This allows the helicopter to take off and land vertically, to hover, and to fly forward, backward and laterally. These attributes ...
rescued him. He was operated on for a dislocated hip-joint and had to spend two years walking on crutches, but that did not keep him out for too long and he has climbed for three decades after the injury. Kapadia has a degree in commerce, law and management from
University of Mumbai The University of Mumbai is a collegiate university, collegiate, State university (India), state-owned, Public university, public research university in Mumbai. The University of Mumbai is one of the largest universities in the world. , the un ...
and he is a cloth merchant by profession. He has published twelve books. His ''Trek The Sahyadris'' has become a standard reference for all trekkers in the Western Ghats. His other books, ''Exploring the Hidden Himalaya'' (with Soli Mehta) and ''High Himalaya Unknown Valleys'' and ''Meeting The Mountains'', cover his various trips to the Himalayas, while ''Spiti Adventures in the Trans-Himalaya'' covers climbing and trekking in that region. He has been the editor of the ''Himalayan Journal'' from 1980 to 1986, and since 1990, bringing the journal to international standards and continuing it as a major authentic reference on the range. Kapadia has been elected an honorary member of the (British) Alpine Club. He was a vice president of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (1997–1999). He was awarded the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) Gold Medal in 1993. In 2003, the Queen approved the award of the Patron's Medal of the
Royal Geographical Society The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers), often shortened to RGS, is a learned society and professional body for geography based in the United Kingdom. Founded in 1830 for the advancement of geographical scien ...
to him. He was also awarded the
Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award The Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award, formerly known as the National Adventure Awards is the highest adventure sports honour of the Republic of India. The award is named after Tenzing Norgay, one of the first two individuals to reach th ...
2003 for lifetime achievement. He has been invited to many countries to lecture on his Himalayan exploits, and is a member of several organisations. He is married and lives in Bombay. His son,
Lieutenant A lieutenant ( , ; abbreviated Lt., Lt, LT, Lieut and similar) is a commissioned officer rank in the armed forces of many nations. The meaning of lieutenant differs in different militaries (see comparative military ranks), but it is often sub ...
Nawang Kapadia Harish Kapadia (born 11 July 1945) is a Himalayan mountaineer, author and long-time editor of the '' Himalayan Journal'' from India. He has been awarded the Patron's Medal of the Royal Geographical Society, the Life Time Achievement Award fo ...
, who was commissioned on 2 September 2000 in the Fourth Battalion the Third Gorkha Rifles, died while fighting Pakistan-based terrorists in the jungles of Rajwar in the Kupwara district of
Srinagar Srinagar (English: , ) is the largest city and the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir, India. It lies in the Kashmir Valley on the banks of the Jhelum River, a tributary of the Indus, and Dal and Anchar lakes. The city is known for its natu ...
on 11 November 2000. Since then, Kapadia has lectured about this conflict, particularly in the
Siachen Glacier The Siachen Glacier is a glacier located in the eastern Karakoram range in the Himalayas at about , just northeast of the point NJ9842 where the Line of Control between India and Pakistan ends. At long, it is the longest glacier in the Kar ...
. He has been discussing a proposal for a peace park in the Siachen glacier region and cleaning up the environmental damage there. Kapadia has donated a substantial number of photographs and maps to the
American Alpine Club The American Alpine Club (AAC) is a non-profit member organization with more than 24,000 members. Its vision is to create "a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes." The Club is housed in the American Mountaineerin ...
and to the Swiss National Museum, which are setting up the Lt. Nawang Kapadia Collection. This is in addition to the Lt. Nawang Kapadia Library already in existence at the
Himalayan Club The Himalayan Club is an organization founded in India in 1928 along the lines of the Alpine Club. The stated mission of the organization was "to encourage and assist Himalayan travel and exploration, and to extend knowledge of the Himalaya and a ...
. His book, ''Meeting The Mountains'' can be seen while standing in the queue at Disney's Animal Kingdom for ''Expedition Everest''. While passing along the line, one passes by many glass cases displaying the history of mountains and, at one point, there is what is supposed to look like an office with his book on the top bookshelf. Due his long work as editor of the ''Himalayan Journal'', Kapadia became an important chronicler of mountaineering. On 3 November 2017, in Seoul, South Korea, Kapadia was awarded the Piolets d'Or Asia Life Time Achievement Award. He is the first Indian to receive this prestigious award for his outstanding career in mountaineering and exploration. In appreciation of his authorship of many books and his stewardship of the ''Himalayan Journal'' as an editor for 35 years, he was further honoured by the Korea Alpen Book Club and made an honorary member.


Notable climbs

Total peaks climbed: 33 First ascents: 21 *Jatropani () *Ikulari () *Bethartoli Himal South () (Garhwal) *Shiti Dhar () (H.P.) *Devtoli* () *Kalabaland Dhura* () *Koteshwar II* ()(Garhwal) *Yada () *Jalsu () (H.P.) *Lagma* (), *Zumto* (c.) *Tserip* (c.) *Kawu* (c.) (Spiti) *Kalanag () *Bandarpunch West* () (Garhwal) *Parilungbi () *Runse* () *Gyadung* () *Geling* (c. ) *Lama Kyent* (c.) *Labrang* (c.) (Spiti) *Nandi* () (Garhwal) *Laknis* () *Chogam () *Skyang () (East Karakoram) *Panchali Chuli* () *Draupadi* () (Kumaon) *Khamengar () (Spiti) *Mangla* () *Kunda*() (Kinnaur) *Lungser Kangri* ()Harish Kapadia (1999). ''Across Peaks & Passes in Ladakh, Zanskar & East Karakoram''. New Delhi: Indus Publishing Company. p. 73-86. *Chhamser Kangri() (Ladakh) *Bhagat Peak* () (Garhwal)


Bibliography

*''Exploring the Hidden Himalaya'' *''Trek the Sahyadris'' *''High Himalaya Unknown Valleys'' *'' Spiti Adventures in the Trans-Himalaya'' *''Meeting The Mountains'' *''Across Peaks and Passes in
Kumaun Kumaon or Kumaun may refer to: * Kumaon division, a region in Uttarakhand, India * Kumaon Kingdom, a former country in Uttarakhand, India * Kumaon, Iran, a village in Isfahan Province, Iran * , a ship of the Royal Indian Navy during WWII See also ...
'' *''Across Peaks and Passes in
Garhwal Garhwal may refer to the following topics associated with Uttarakhand, India: Places *Garhwal Himalaya, a sub-range of the Himalayas *Garhwal Kingdom, a former kingdom * Garhwal District (British Garhwal), a former district of British India *Gar ...
'' *''Across Peaks and Passes in
Himachal Pradesh Himachal Pradesh (; ; "Snow-laden Mountain Province") is a state in the northern part of India. Situated in the Western Himalayas, it is one of the thirteen mountain states and is characterized by an extreme landscape featuring several peaks ...
'' *''Across Peaks and Passes in
Ladakh Ladakh () is a region administered by India as a union territory which constitutes a part of the larger Kashmir region and has been the subject of dispute between India, Pakistan, and China since 1947. (subscription required) Quote: "Jammu and ...
,
Zanskar Zanskar, Zahar (locally) or Zangskar, is a tehsil of Kargil district, in the Indian union territory of Ladakh. The administrative centre is Padum (former Capital of Zanskar). Zanskar, together with the neighboring region of Ladakh, was brief ...
and East
Karakoram The Karakoram is a mountain range in Kashmir region spanning the borders of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwest extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range falls under the ...
'' *''Across Peaks and Passes in
Darjeeling Darjeeling (, , ) is a town and municipality in the northernmost region of the Indian state of West Bengal. Located in the Eastern Himalayas, it has an average elevation of . To the west of Darjeeling lies the easternmost province of Nepal, ...
and
Sikkim Sikkim (; ) is a state in Northeastern India. It borders the Tibet Autonomous Region of China in the north and northeast, Bhutan in the east, Province No. 1 of Nepal in the west and West Bengal in the south. Sikkim is also close to the Siligur ...
Himalaya'' *''A Passage to Himalaya'' (editor) *''Trekking and Climbing in Indian Himalaya''


References


External links


Harish Kapadia

Citation for lifetime achievement award
pdf


Lt. Nawang Kapadia

Lt. Nawang Kapadia Map Library


{{DEFAULTSORT:Kapadia, Harish 1945 births Living people Indian mountain climbers Historians of mountaineering People from Pithoragarh University of Mumbai alumni Recipients of the Royal Geographical Society Patron's Medal Recipients of the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award Recipients of Indian Mountaineering Foundation's Gold Medal People related to Lahaul and Spiti district